Our favorite thing about traveling around the world for wine is tasting unique, indigenous varieties. That is why we jumped at the chance to visit Cyprus. With its long history of winemaking and isolation, many old grape varieties have survived there.

The Cypriot wine industry is working hard to focus on their native grapes. The most famous Cypriot wine, named Commandaria, is a blend of two native varieties—Xynisteri and Mavro. The wine industry is not resting on its laurels and many producers are now focusing on dry wines. Nearly every producer is producing a dry white wine from Xynisteri and most are attempting to produce a dry red wine from the finicky Maratheftiko.

One interesting thing to note about many of these varieties is the vines that they come from. About 90% of the vines in Cyprus are old, head-trained, bush vines. They stick out of the ground looking like old, gnarly hands. Cyprus was never affected by phylloxera, while the rest of Europe’s vines suffered in the late 19th and early 20th century. Therefore, the vines are all on their original rootstock.

Cypriot White Wine Grape Varieties

Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Viognier can all be found in Cyprus. There were examples of varying quality made from all of these international grapes. Producers often commented on international grapes struggling with the sun and heat in Cyprus. All the producers agreed that Cyprus has a need for white grapes capable of making more high-quality wines.

All producers are working with Xynisteri and because of the focus, quality has jumped tremendously in the last five years (so we were told). The other three native grapes were difficult to track down. Getting a chance to taste them takes serious effort. Hopefully, the Cypriot producers continue to experiment with all of these grapes as some show great potential.

Xynisteri

Xynisteri on its own is a neutral grape, similar to Spain’s Palomino—which is used to make Sherry. Xynisteri is one of the two grapes used in the traditional dessert wine, Commandaria. In the last several years, many producers have focused on making this wine in fresh and fruity style. The name translates to “little acid” and wines made from the grape need acidity correction, which the Cypriot law allows. It is also blended with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, or Muscat to add aromas and flavor.

We found this grape to make very nice white wine. You can count on every producer to make at least a decent Xynisteri. Most producers make a Xynisteri wine that is meant to be drunk young. However, a few also make cellar-worthy, barrel- fermented or/and aged Xynisteri like those from Kyperounda and Zambartas. We often found lime and pine flavors in Xynisteri wines.

• Nicolaides Xynisteri 2015

Nicolas Nicolaides studied winemaking in Montpellier, France. This Xynisteri is markedly different from others and is very French in style. Kept on the skins for one day. Nice golden color. Nuts, mature peaches, and flowers. Oily and balanced body. Long finish and delicious. Very much like a Côte Catalanes white wine made from Rhône varieties. Unfortunately, Nicolas made Xynisteri in this style for only one vintage.   4.1/5

• Ezousa Xynisteri 2016

Full of pine, mineral, lime, and white peach—typical Xynisteri flavor profile. The wine is crisp with a touch of residual sugar. The finish is very citrusy. Mineral driven and delicious.   4.0/5

Morokanella

A very interesting white grape that is just starting to gain some traction. We only came across three producers making wine from this grape. It has adapted to the heat and lime soil of Cyprus. Many producers have faith in this grape, but time will tell as more start using it. The examples we tasted were smokey and oily in texture with a nice citrus finish.

• Aes Ambelis Morokanella 2016

Smoky with white pear and a touch of white peach. Juicy and almost soapy on the palate, with a lime finish. This would benefit from a few more months of bottle aging but a nice effort from this winery.   3.7/5

Promara

Only one producer is working with this grape, Vouni Panayia. There’s a hypothesis that it is a mutation of Xynisteri, but that has not been proven. The examples from this winery showed unique flavors of smoke and brown spices mixed in with melon and citrus fruit. The wines made from this grape were not high in acidity but very well-made. You can see a more in-depth write-up about Vouni Panayia in this article.

Spourtiko

We only tasted two examples of this variety. One example was poorly made and oxidized, while the second one was more interesting. Vouni Panayia makes a varietal wine from this grape as well but they were completely out of the wine when we visited. Many producers say they have problems working with this grape. With the limited sample size, the grape’s potential remains a mystery to us.

• Fikardos Spourtiko 2015

A very rare grape, oily and smokey with a touch of petrol. The flavors include lemon drops and onion. This is interesting with new flavors and nuances that will satisfy the experimental palates.   3.3/5

Viognier

While driving through the country, going winery to winery, we had a thought. It seemed like the terrain and climate would be perfect for white Rhône varieties. If producers were struggling with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, perhaps it’s worthwhile to give Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier a try?

Later in the trip, we got the answer to our question. We tasted two excellent examples of Viognier. The wines were very well made and would make any discerning palate happy. Perhaps Rhône white grapes wouldn’t be as “sexy” as other French grapes on the local market, but we feel they would make infinitely better wine.

• Argyrides Viognier 2015

Full of white peach, apple, lemon, white flower, and mineral notes. The wine is very ripe and full, oily and packed with flavors. There are multiple layers of flavors and the mouthfeel is nice. The finish has a bitter flower component. This wine was drunk over dinner and was a big hit among everyone present.   4.2/5

• Ezousa Viognier 2016

On the lees for four months. This is Ezousa’s best wine in my opinion, while Charine is more partial to their mineral-driven Xynisteri. The wine is not intense on the nose but white peach, yogurt, and white flower are present. The end palate is very oily and viscous with a bitter orange peel finish. The acidity is lower for a white wine but it really works here with this grape. Very correct for the variety and delicious to boot.   4.1/5

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Your Cheat Sheet To The Wines Of Cyprus, Part 1
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine

Stay tuned to our website for more articles and videos about the wines of Cyprus.

Disclaimer: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post More than Xynisteri: Indigenous White Wine Grapes of Cyprus appeared first on Wine Travel.

Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean with an area of 9,251 square kilometers. Situated at the northeastern end of the Mediterranean basin, the country lies at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Due to its geographical position, Cyprus’s history is marked by turbulence and its culture is shaped by different influences—from the Greeks to Phoenicians, Assyrians, Venetians, French, Ottomans, and British.

The rich history of Cyprus is accompanied by the grapevines. Winemaking in Cyprus has enjoyed historical continuity through a period of more than 5,000 years. Today, wine continues to play a role in the Cypriot identity. The country offers a panorama of wine history that puts it—not in the Old World or New World but—in the ‘Ancient World’ of wine.

15 Pointers to Get You Acquainted with the Wines of Cyprus

Here are a few pointers to get you started on the wines of Cyprus. Stay tuned to our website for more articles and videos on the Cypriot wine scene.

• Before 1991, Cyprus used to produce 300 million liters of wine; most of the Cypriot wine was exported to the Soviet Union. Today, the production has dropped to about one-tenth of that.

• Like the former Eastern Bloc, Cyprus’s wine industry had to reinvent itself following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the consequent waning demand for cheap, low-quality wines. The final blow came in 1996 when a new EU directive made it illegal for any fortified wines made outside Jerez to assume the title of sherry. Cyprus gave up its ability to market certain wines as sherry, which further stimulated the drastic restructuring of the Cyprus’s wine industry.

• On 1 May 2004, the country became a full member of the European Union. To bring the wine industry in line with the membership, a controlled appellation scheme was developed. With the collapse of its main export market in the Soviet Union, Cyprus was severely affected by the EU’s Vine Pull Schemes. Many of the old vines were pulled and many vineyards were abandoned as a result.

• Today, the average age of the vines in Cyprus is around 50 to 60 years old. More than 90% of the vines are goblet-trained.

• The emergence of high-quality Cypriot wine reached its tipping point about six years ago, the same time when wine bars started appearing in the cities of Cyprus.

• Cyprus escaped the phylloxera plague, so its rootstocks remain ungrafted; although sometimes, international varieties may be grafted onto the roots of local varieties (where both varieties belong to Vitis vinifera).

• The climate is predominantly Mediterranean. Climate hazards are mostly hail and frost in higher-elevation vineyards. Humidity level is low though some areas have its own microclimate that can develop Botrytis cinerea.

• Cyprus has some of the highest vineyards in Europe, reaching over 1,400 meters above sea level.

• Commandaria—the luscious, sweet wine of Cyprus—is said to be the first wine in history to receive the protection of name and geographical origin. In the 13th to 14th centuries, the Cypriot wine, along with other sweet wines from the east and Italy, fetched higher prices in the English market than the wines of France.

• Up until the late 1980s, almost all the Cypriot wines were made by wineries located near the docks of Limassol or Paphos, namely the big four: Etko, Keo, Loel, and Sodap. Today, the market is wonderfully diverse with over 60 registered wineries. Among those are two registered organic producers and more than a handful of the wineries are run by academically trained viticulturists and enologists.

• Generally, the people in Cyprus do not enjoy oak-induced flavors in wine. As such, you’ll find the market dominated by fresh, unoaked whites (made from the local variety Xynisteri) and reds (usually a blend of local and international varieties). The Cypriots also love both rosés and reds that are slightly tannic.

• The total number of indigenous varieties is estimated to be around 70, although only 20 have been registered so far. The indigenous varieties you’ll likely come across are Maratheftiko, Mavro, Morokanella, Ofthalmo, Promara, Spourtiko, Xynisteri, and Yiannoudi. While not entirely indigenous, another variety to look out for is Lefkada. Called Vertzami in Greece, the Lefkada vines arrived in Cyprus in 1956 from the island of Lefkada in Greece. As a variety, Vertzami is mostly used as a blending grape in Greece. However, in Cyprus, you’ll get a chance to try Lefkada as a monovarietal wine.

• Among the international varieties, Shiraz/Syrah is regarded as the best suited for the Cyprus’s climate, although we’ve encountered more interesting Cabernet Sauvignon wines (than Shiraz) that can take on some of its counterparts from California. Other popular international grapes that you can find in Cyprus: Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Chardonnay, Mataro/Mourvedre, Merlot, Muscat of Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon.

• There are currently seven “Wine Routes of Cyprus” and they are Laona-Akamas, Vouni Panagias-Ampelitis, Diarizos Valley, Krasochoria of Lemesos, Commadaria, Pitsilia, and Lanarka-Lefkosia.

• Generally, wine prices at the cellar are between €5 and €18, while some vintage Commandaria and sweet wine can go up to €80. The quality-price ratio is startling and, together with its organoleptic merits, makes Cypriot wine a real treat whether you’re a connoisseur or casual wine drinker.

Navigating Cyprus

Language
The official languages are Greek and Turkish. English is widely spoken.

Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels and guesthouses in most of the towns and villages along the wine routes.

Eat
Visit the tavernas for unique local dishes. More information about the Cypriot cuisine and wine-and-food pairing tips will be available in future articles.

Getting There
More than 30 airlines operate scheduled flights from and to

1. Larnaca International Airport
– 8 km from Larnaca (Larnaka)
– 50 km from Nicosia (Lefkosia)
– 70 km from Limassol (Lemesos)
– 50 km from Agia Napa
– 140 km from Paphos (Pafos)

2. Paphos Airport
– 15 km from Paphos (Pafos)
– 63 km from Limassol (Lemesos)
– 130 km from Larnaca (Larnaka)
– 50 km from Polis
– 142 km from Nicosia (Lefkosia)

Connect with Us!

If you enjoy this rundown on the wines of Cyprus, please subscribe to our newsletter and follow our social media platforms to receive more updates, including tasting notes and specific producers in Cyprus to look out for. We tasted over 200 Cypriot wines from 30 different producers to filter out the best for you!

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Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine

Disclosure: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Your Cheat Sheet to the Wines of Cyprus, Part I appeared first on Wine Travel.