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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!
Feudi di San Gregorio, Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002
Most wine geeks have that “aha” moment. It’s that moment that crystalizes a style or a grape in your mind. My recent “aha” moment was with the Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002.
The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva is made from Aglianico. This variety is responsible for two of the most esteemed wines of southern Italy, Aglianico del Vulture and Taurasi/Taurasi Riserva. The later has often been dubbed the “Barolo of the south.” It’s a moniker that I’ve never understood until this wine came along.
Taurasi wines have high levels of acidity and tannin like Nebbiolo, so understand why there is a comparison made to Barolo. The examples we have judged and tasted lack the layers, complexity, and tarry notes often associated with Barolo. All too many times Charine and I have walked away from Aglianico-based wines disappointed.
We came across this older vintage of the Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva at a restaurant in Singapore. The sommelier was enthusiastic about the wine and suggested that we give it a try. I was hesitant at first but ultimately decided to go with his recommendation.
Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the most well-known producers of Taurasi and this is the reserve bottling of the estate. The Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002 is the first Aglianico-based wine that really knocks my socks off. The flavors include tar, tar, and more tar with notes of black cherry, black plum, pepper, and tobacco. The wine is full-bodied with a savory mouthfeel and bright acidity. The small, fine-grained tannins guide the long finish.
No, it doesn’t taste like a Barolo but there are nuances that let you know this is a serious wine. I finally see the similarities that tie Taurasi to Barolo – the tar, the acidity, and the small tannins. Yes Aglianico, I finally understand you now.
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