I liked Nicola Thornton within five seconds of chatting with her.

The wine industry can be tough. Selling wine in this climate is challenging with so many restaurants closed. Writing about wine can be even tougher thanks to shrinking budgets and limited paying outlets. It’s easy to find people that are beaten down. Meeting optimistic people feels like a breath of fresh air.

That’s exactly the type of person that Nicola is. She left the UK and fell in love with sunny Spain. After years of working in cooperatives and private wineries, she founded the Spanish Palate in 2016. Her team looks after several small producers and helps them market and export to over 40 countries worldwide.

From our first call to tasting the wines, I was impressed with her energy and enthusiasm. Her lineup of wines named “Spanish Palate Creations” is inspiring. They consist of two lines. The Botas de Barro (muddy boots) lineup are wines that see a little oak aging, while the Mi Tractor Azul (my blue tractor) wines are fresh and fruity. Nicola and her team designed the labels and market them as inexpensive wines that overdeliver in their price points.

These wines are produced by cooperatives in different regions of Spain that work with old vines. “The idea of the cooperative is perfect (to me), you get all of the small farmers pulling their resources together to defend a dignified way to live,” Nicola says. “It gives these guys power in numbers.”

I think all of the wines in the Spanish Palate Creations line are good to very good. These are the types of wines that will be fine house pours in restaurants around the world. Purchasing a bottle also helps bring communities together and supports the little guy.

Wine Recommendations:

Spanish Palate Creations

• Botas de Barro, Old Vine Garnacha Almansa 2017

The Botas de Barro, Old Vine Garnacha Almansa is my favorite wine in the Spanish Palate creations. This has a wonderful, complex nose with notes of strawberry, black raspberry, parched earth, meat, and pepper. There’s plenty of fruit here with a hint of complexity. There is meatiness and earthiness on the palate and the tannins are supple and ripe. It doesn’t have great length but it is very fun and pleasurable to drink. Score: 88+/100

• Botas de Barro, Toro 2018

The Botas de Barro, Toro is Tempranillo aged for 5 months in oak. This is a nice, slimmer Toro. There’s complexity here for such a young wine. Notes of cherry, raspberry, pepper, and earth. There’s a pleasant streak of tangy acidity on the mid-palate. Tannins are chewy but not overly drying. Very good, entry-level Toro. Score: 87/100

• Mi Tractor Azul, Garnacha Tintorera 2017

Mi Tractor Azul, Garnacha Tintorera is Alicante Bouchet unoaked. Very dark wine. There are notes of raspberry, violets, cherry, pepper, and stems. It’s full-bodied and generous on the palate with some bright acidity. The wine is fruity and big but there’s a slight green streak to it, which I like a lot. A delicious bistro red with some tannins. Score: 87/100

• Mi Tractor Azul, Toro 2018

The Mi Tractor Azul, Toro is made from 100% Tempranillo that doesn’t see oak. Shows decent complexity for an unoaked wine. Notes of black cherry, cassis, and pepper. Fruity and easy-going with low level of tannins. This is a young wine but the spike of flavor on the mid-palate is surprising. It’s not built to go the distance but another year in the bottle would do it wonders. Score: 87/100

• La Baldosa. Macabeo 2019

The La Baldosa, Macabeo is from the Manchuela DO. This is 100% Macabeo. It’s a nice crisp white wine with notes of pineapple, white flower, and flint. This grape is one of the components of Cava and you can definitely pick it up here. It’s crisp and fresh, not complex but very well done. This is a summer sipper for those who want something different than a Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Score: 87/100

Estate Grown Spanish Wines

The Spanish Palate also markets a number of small producers from all over Spain. All of the wines below are available in Spain for under 20 Euros, with the majority of them around 10. All of these offer fantastic value for money and are worth seeking out.

• Hacienda Albae, Viognier 2019

The Hacienda Albae, Viognier stays on the lees in steel for four months. Notes of dandelion, sweet yellow peach, honey, and clay. The floral and yellow stone fruit notes are what really stand out. This is a solid, full-bodied Viognier. Don’t expect an ultra-crisp white wine but do expect something with some significant body. It is very similar to the wines of the Southern Rhône. For a wine that retails around 8 Euros in Spain, this is a steal. Score: 89/100

• Hacienda Albae, Chardonnay Barrica 2017

This Chardonnay Barrica from Hacienda Albae is fermented and aged in oak for six months. It’s deeper in color thanks to 24 months on the skins. There are unmistakeable Chardonnay notes here such as melon, sweet peach, and a touch of toast. The wood is laid down remarkably well, it’s negligible on the nose and pleasant on the mouth. Sweet and long yellow fruit finish. There’s a lot to like here. Score: 89/100

• Loess, ‘Inspiration’ Ribera del Duero 2018

Many mid-range Spanish reds tend to be too oaky for my palate. The Loess, ‘Inspiration’ Ribera del Duero is not one of those wines. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in oak for nine months. This is made from estate-grown fruit. The oak isn’t overbearing here and this is a pleasure to drink. Notes of dark cherry, mocha, and tobacco come together on a full-bodied frame. There’s intense, ripe fruit here but the wine is burdened by oak, which I love. Chewy tannins. This gets an uptick in score thanks to its affordability (11-15 Euros in Spain). Score: 90+/100

• Loess, ‘Collection’ Ribera del Duero 2015

For those that like bigger, oakier reds, the Loess ‘Collection’ Ribera del Duero is for you. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in oak for 24-30 months. This is a big, dark red with notes of cherry, baking spice, tobacco, and bacon fat. It enters the mouth with a ton of dark fruit. It’s a structured red. There is a spicy finish along with plenty of acidity. The woody tannins are a bit strong but with a big piece of meat, they shouldn’t be a problem. Score: 90/100

• Coral Duero, Los Lastros 2017

The Coral Duero, Los Lastros is simply fun to drink. It’s a single-vineyard Toro aged for 8 months in oak. Notes of bright cherry, earth, and tobacco. The interplay between fruit and oak here is fantastic. It’s more of a medium-bodied Toro, there’s enough fruit here to overpower the oak. Ripe tannins and a luxurious finish. Score: 90+/100

• Coral Duero, Rompesedas 2017

The Coral Duero, Rompesedas is higher up on this producer’s portfolio. It is a single-vineyard Toro aged for 18 months in oak. The specs suggested that this could be too oaky but that’s not the truth. There are oaky aromas but they are far from distracting. Notes of black cherry, crushed rose petal, and earth also emerge from the glass. This is rich and looks to be more age-worthy of the four wines. There’s a lot of structure from the barrel but this should fade with time. This might be the best wine out of the four but to drink, I prefer the Los Lastros. Score: 90/100

• Casa do Sol, ’10 Meses Sobre Lías’ Albariño 2016

The Casa do Sol, ’10 Meses Sobre Lías’ Albariño is brilliant. It is barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for 10 months. It’s a beauty and shows bottle development. Notes of caramel, dried peach, dried pineapple, yogurt, lemon, and flint. It’s very complex on the nose and in the mouth. Full-bodied with a gritty texture and a long finish. Spine-tingling acidity that is typical of the grape. It’s in a great place now so drink it up. Score: 91+/100

• Casa do Sol, ‘Braiña de Casa do Sol’ Albariño 2018

The ‘Braiña de Casa do Sol’ Albariño is the entry-level wine from this estate is beautiful. It’s an electric, high-acid white. There are notes of kefir lime, lemon, and seawater. It has a sandy texture on the palate with a long finish guided by citrusy acidity. The perfect wine for shellfish. Score: 89/100

• Válgame Dios, Toro Crianza 2017

The Válgame Dios, Toro Crianza is the only wine in this small producer’s lineup. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in French oak for 12 months. It’s a full-bodied, rich Toro. There are notes of black cherry, pepper, earth, and mocha from the wood. The wine has generous fruit and acidity with a subtle graphite note. The tannins are tough but not excessively drying. There’s a rustic charm to this wine but in a good way. Score: 89/100 

• El Regajal, Selección Especial 2018

El Regajal has created a fun red wine with their Selección Especial. It is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Petit Verdot aged in oak for 12 months. This is a big step up from their Las Retamas and doesn’t show the oaky flavors. Notes of red cherry, cassis, thyme, and pepper. Very complex and elegant nose. Full of fruit and flavors on the palate. Chewy tannins. The grape combination would be hard to guess if this was tasted blind but that doesn’t matter. It’s a delicious red that should develop nicely over the next few years in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Bigardo, Vino Tinto Experimental 2018

The Bigardo, Vino Tinto Experimental is a minimal intervention red made from Toro de Tinto (Tempranillo) aged in oak for about six months. Lots of soil, earth, cardamon, black cherry, and fall leaves flavors emerge from the glass. In the glass, it doesn’t act like a normal red from Toro. It’s medium-bodied and more earthy than fruity with bracing acidity and a low level of tannins. Fans of natural reds are going to find a lot to like here. Score: 90/100

• Leyenda del Paramo, ‘El Aprendiz’ Albarín Blanco 2018

The Leyenda del Paramo, ‘El Aprendiz’ is made from rare grape Albarín Blanco. It has bright notes of pineapple, almond, white peach, and clay. It is a fresh white but far from boring. The flavors come on strong and hit you with a blast of white and citrus fruits. The slight, bitter finish on the backend adds to the complexity. High, It’s got the aromas and punch of a Southern Rhône white with Riesling-like, citrusy acidity. Score: 89/100

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Thanks to the Spanish Palate for providing tasting samples. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Volcanic wines are a hot subject these days and GoVolcanic proved to be an explosive tasting.

Bad jokes aside, the first edition of GoVolcanic in Budapest, Hungary proved to be an interesting event. There were great volcanic wines from all over the world including Hungary, Austria, Israel, Spain, Slovakia, Portugal, Italy, France, and the USA. The event was headlined by Master Sommelier John Szabo, who’s credited with being one of the founders of this wine movement thanks to his book Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit, and Power.

As a first time event, there were a few organizational hiccups but the quality of the wines is what matters to me most. With this in mind, GoVolcanic excelled and exceeded my expectations. On the tasting tables and in the masterclasses all the wines followed the ‘volcanic terroir’ theme.

Go Volcanic Masterclasses and Speed Tastings

The strongest part of the GoVolcanic tasting was the workshops. Both days were filled with masterclasses from both wine professionals and geologists. The main tasting room also featured ‘speed tastings’ modeled after the London Wine Fair, where one professional led stand-up tastings of six wines in thirty minutes.

As someone who loves to taste quickly, these speed tastings were perfect for me. I attended four and all were led by competent professionals who selected excellent volcanic wines. If GoVolcanic comes back for a second edition, I’d love to see more of this setup.

The workshops at GoVolcanic 2019 were lead by both wine professionals and geologists. Both went beyond the normal masterclass and dug deeper into what makes volcanic soil unique for viticulture. The classes also featured hard to find wines such as ‘Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project’ and old vintages from Somló, Hungary.

There was a lot to like about GoVolcanic 2019 and I hope it comes back for a second edition this year. Here are my ten favorite volcanic wines from the show.

Wine Recommendations:

Foreign Wines

• Feudo Cavaliere, Millemetri Etna Rosato 2016 – Etna, Italy

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I tasted the Feudo Cavaliere ‘Millemetri’ Etna Rosato during a speed tasting conducted by Master of Wine Elizabeth Gabay. It’s made from Nerello Mascalese and is full of sour cherry, strawberry, and mineral flavors. It’s a serious rosé, not just fruity, there’s plenty going on here. Gritty texture and a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Pico Wines, Frei Gigante 2018 – Pico, Azores 

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The Frei Gigante is a masterpiece by the Pico Wines cooperative. It’s a blend of Arinto, Verdelho, and Terrantez. Tine wine is high in mineral flavors with notes of smoke, flint, and a faint hint of quince. The palate is smoky and savory in addition to being highly structured with a long finish. This isn’t for someone who wants fruit, it’s for those who like complex, savory white wines. Score: 92/100

• Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project, Breitenbrunn 2017 – Leithaburg, Austria

Roland Velich of Moric winery in Austria has a label called Hidden Treasures. He picks unique wines from Austria and Hungary for this label. This wine is made with Lichtenberge-González, a producer in the Leithaburg DAC in Austria. This Blaufränkisch is a savory red wine with mineral, white pepper, cherry, and a touch of cedar. Firm tannins and high acidity, it feels a lot like Sangiovese. The wine has a long finish and is cellar-worthy. Score: 91/100

• Fattorie Romeo del Castello, ‘Vigo’ Etna Rosso 2013 – Etna

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The Fattorie Romeo del Castello Vigo is everything I want in an Etna Rosso. This is a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. It’s robust and smoky red with notes of black cherry, redcurrant, smoke, and tobacco. It’s full and round on that palate at first and then the small tannins hit hard on the back end. Score: 92+/100

Hungarian Wine

• Homonna Attila, ‘Határi’ Tokaji Furmint 2017 – Tokaj

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Homonna Attila is a tiny producer in Tokaj and his Határi Tokaji Furmint is one of his top dry wines. It has notes of sweet peach, white pear, flint, and yogurt flavors. Full-bodied and rich with a touch of residual sugar. This has real texture and structure. The fruit flavors may be a tad muted but you can’t deny the quality here, it’s for people who like German Riesling and Sylvaner. Score: 90/100

• Bajnóczy, ‘Sárkány-Lelke’ Pinot Gris 2017 – Balaton

Nerd alert! The Bajnóczy ‘Sárkány-Lelke’ Pinot Gris’ is for hardcore wine geeks. This is partially macerated and done in a minimal intervention style. The wine is full-bodied and gritty with a smoky flavor along with the dried yellow fruit and a slight almond finish. Score: 90/100

• 2HA, Shiraz 2016 – Balaton

The 2HA (2 hectares) winery is a tiny estate in North Balaton that puts an emphasis on red wines (this is primarily a white wine region) The 2HA Shiraz is more of a Syrah style than a Shiraz. Notes of dark fruit, violets, chocolate, and pepper. It’s juicy with a peppery finish. Complex and extremely well done. Score: 91+/100

• Fekete Pincé, Furmint 2007 – Somló

Fekete Pincé is one of the old guards of Somló and this Furmint 2007 is classic. There are notes of mushroom, campfire, smoke, and dried apricot. It’s full-bodied, oxidative, and highly mineral with a chewy texture and a long finish. Truly complex and unique, this is a thinking wine and a very good one at that. Score: 92/100

• Győrgykovács Imre, Hárslevelú 2010 – Somló

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Another old guard of the tiny volcanic region of Somló. The Győrgykovács Imre Hárslevelú has notes of white flower, honey, flint, smoke, and a faint bit of white pear. This is shiny and highly mineral. It’s full-bodied and fairly neutral. Highly structured with a long finish. This is not for people that want gobs of fruit, but it is a brilliant wine. It’s was my favorite wine of the entire GoVolcanic Summit. Score: 93+/100

• Somlói Apátsági Pince, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

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Somlói Apátsági Pince is another classic producer from Somló while Juhfark is one of the star varieties. This example is a late harvest, dry wine. The flavors include apricot, pear, sweet peach and honey with subtle notes of botrytis. It is full-bodied and minerally, unique and delicious. Gritty texture and a touch of residual sugar to build the body and balance the acidity. Score: 90/100

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GoVolcanic provided complimentary admission. Cover photo is from the GoVolcanic website. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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When you walk into a local wine shop, do you ever wonder how the bottles were selected? In 2018, the OIV (International Organization of Vine and Wine) reported that 293 million hectoliters of wine were produced – that’s equivalent to nearly 40 billion bottles of wine! Out of all that wine, how do wines get selected for the store shelf?

It’s by the work of importers, distributors, and shop owners who travel around the world. They swish around countless numbers of wines in their mouth before settling on just one to import and/or sell. I don’t know the official statistics, but probably only a handful of wines out of every hundred tasted are selected by merchants.

Business to Business Tasting Pollenzo

We got another chance to see this process firsthand at the Pollenzo Business to Business (B2B) Tasting in Piemonte, Italy. Over the three days we were in attendance, there were 50 wineries pouring over 200 wines. We were joined by buyers from Europe, Russia, USA, and Hong Kong.

Our days were packed with face to face meetings with producers. Each producer had their own table. The meeting/tasting appointment lasted thirty minutes, from there we had to move onto the next table. It was an intense three days of tasting on a tight schedule.

Events like the Pollenzo B2B give us real insight into the retail side of the wine business. Most of the buyers present selected just a handful of wines as possible ‘candidates’ for their respective markets. That means they need to crunch the numbers even further, taste the wine again at home, and test their markets more before the wine ever sees the shelf.

Know Your Wine Merchant

It’s worth getting to know your local wine merchant.

Tasting with merchants/buyers is a totally different experience than tasting with writers. Wine writers look for the quality of the wine and what they prefer. Wine buyers and merchants look for what will sell in their given market, regardless of their own preferences.

Next time you stop by your wine shop to pick up a bottle, think about the meticulous selection process. There’s a lot of work allows that bottle to be in front of your face. If you like the wine, try to find out who chose the wine, he/she probably have selected a number of wines to your liking.

We really enjoyed our time at Pollenzo and welcome the chance to attend more business to business tastings. Events like the Pollenzo B2B are a good look into the reality of selling wine. Here are thirteen wines from the Pollenzo B2B that we enjoyed.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Paolo Berta, ‘La Berta’ Nizza 2016 – Piemonte, Italy

This charming little estate produces wines with real character and a hint of rusticity. The Paolo Berta ‘La Berta’ Nizza is made from 100% Barbera, it has notes of hazelnut, cherry, cranberry, and mineral notes. Tangy acidity with layers of texture on the palate, good bite, and a long finish. This has the classic Barbera flavors. Score: 91/100

• La Gironda, ‘Soul’ Monferrato Rosso 2014 – Piemonte, Italy

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Monferrato isn’t as well known for Nebbiolo as Langhe (and to a lesser extent Alto Piemonte). That makes the La Gironda ‘Soul’ Monferrato Rosso all the more interesting. It’s made from 100% Nebbiolo. Proper Nebbiolo in color with an orange tinge on the rim of the glass. Rose petal, cranberry, and a touch of perfume dominate the flavor profile. The wine is round and energetic. This has nervy acidity with firm but not over-the-top tannins. Score: 90/100

• Villa Giada, ‘The English Winemaker’ Piemonte Barbera 2018 – Piemonte, Italy

The Villa Giada ‘The English Winemaker’ Piemonte Barbera is a totally different wine than others in the Villa Giada portfolio. Villa Giada usually makes big and bold reds from Barbera. This wine is made with 25% whole cluster fermentation and indigenous yeasts. No additional sulfur is added. There are notes of stems, ripe red fruit, and pepper. This is a hardcore natural wine with gorgeous fruit. Score: 90/100

• Vinchio-Vaglio Serra, ‘Vigne Vecchie 50’ Barbera d’Asti 2016 – Piemonte, Italy

This is a brilliant, complex red from a cooperative winery. The Vinchio-Vaglio Serra ‘ Vigne Vecchie 50’ Barbera d’Asti is made from old vines and is aged in concrete. Dried strawberry, cherry, cranberry, and tobacco flavors emerge from the glass. It has a round mouthfeel with crunchy acidity. Smooth fruity-chocolate finish and grippy tannins. Score: 90/100 

• Grasso Fratelli, ‘Söri’ Valgrande’ Barbaresco 2005 – Piemonte, Italy

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The latest vintage of this wine is very good (2015) but the older vintage is stellar. The Grasso Fratelli ‘Söri’ Valgrande’ Barbaresco 2005 opens with an intriguing and sexy nose. There are notes of leather, tomato, tobacco, tar, and cherry flavors. Slim and sexy on the palate with tannins that hit like a NFL linebacker. This is what aged Nebbiolo is all about – complexity with sensuality. Score: 93/100

• Massimo Rettalino, ‘Novantuno 91’ Barolo 2014 – Piemonte, Italy

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Massimo Rettalino is fairly young estate producing Barolo and Barbaresco. The Massimo Rettalino ‘Novantuno 91’ Barolo is made with fruit sourced from the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. It has complex flavors of cranberry, leather, perfume, mahogany, and spice. The wine has round mouthfeel and tangy acidity. For a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, the tannins are surprisingly accessible for a young wine. Score: 92/100 

• Valde Lacierva, Rioja Reserva 2014 – Rioja, Spain

The Valde Lacierva Rioja Reserva is a fantastic wine and good representation of Rioja. It has notes of sweet cherry, pepper, cedar, and tobacco. The wine is big bodied with a lot of complexity and just the right amount of wood flavor. It’s spicy and true Rioja with chewy tannins. Score: 91/100

• Ignacio Marin, Ballard Old Vine Garnacha 2015 – Cariñena, Spain

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Cariñena DO is one of Spain’s oldest, yet unheralded wine regions. The Ignacio Marin Ballard Old Vine Garnacha is an affordable and delicious rendition of Garnacha. It is made from vines over 55 years in age. It has notes of dried strawberry, chocolate, brown herbs, and pepper. Balanced and unfussy red that is fantastic for the money. Score: 90+/100

• I Sabbioni, ‘I Voli Dei Gruccioni’ Sangiovese Superiore 2016 – Emilia-Romagna, Italy

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The wines of Emilia-Romagna get overlooked in the world of Italian wine. We’ve long been fans of the Sangiovese from the region like the I Sabbioni ‘I Voli Dei Gruccioni’ Sangiovese Superiore. It is a delicious, juicy red wine. Crunchy acidity and soft tannins create the structure of this entry-level Sangiovese. Aged in stainless steel and concrete, this is inexpensive and delicious. Score: 88/100

• Demarie, Roero Riserva 2015 – Piemonte, Italy

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Barolo and Barbaresco are iconic Nebbiolo-based wines but across the Tanaro river, there are some lovely examples in Roero. The Demarie Roero Riserva has notes of cherry, cranberry, hazelnuts, and rose petal. The wine spent 18 months in barrique. It’s medium-bodied and silky at first and then the tannins hit hard. The long finish and chewy tannins suggest that this is cellar-worthy. Score: 90/100

• Livia Fontana, Barolo Villero 2015 – Piemonte, Italy

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The Villero vineyard is a well-renowned site located in the commune of Castiglione Falleto. There are many beautiful Barolos made from this vineyard, add the Livia Fontana Barolo Villero to the list. It has a pretty nose of violet, perfume, cranberry, and rose petal. Round and smooth on the palate with notes of black herbs. The tannins are small and grippy but not overly drying. The wine is elegant and graceful with a long finish. Score: 92/100 

• Villa Canestrari, ‘i Lasi’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2016 – Vento, Italy

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Valpolicella Ripasso wines make a great alternative to more costly Amarones. This vintage of Villa Canestrari ‘i Lasi’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore is a flat-out delicious and food-friendly red. There are notes of capsicum, cherry, pepper, and a touch of raisin. The wine is medium-bodied and juicy with some grip. Long and smoky finish. Score: 90+/100 

• Palazzona di Maggio, Dracone Riserva 2011 – Emilia-Romagna, Italy

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The Colli d’Imola is a generic DOC located in Emilia-Romagna. However, this Palazzona di Maggio Dracone Riserva is anything but ordinary. It’s a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot aged two years in oak. This is big and ripe. There are flavors of black plum, capsicum, pepper, stems, and a touch of tobacco. Full weighted on the palate with a chewy texture and ripe tannins. Score: 91/100 

You May Also Enjoy These Videos

• Wine Review: Palazzona di Maggio Dracone Riserva
• Navigating Valpolicella
• Beyond Nebbiolo: The Other Grapes of Piemonte

Cover photo for the article is by Eunice Brovida Foto. Our travel and accommodation were provided by Elledue. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post A Glimpse into the World of Wine Merchants appeared first on Wine Travel.

This is Part 2 of our report about the workshops at Vinart Grand Tasting; here’s Part 1. If you’d like to learn more about Croatian wine, check out Cracking Croatian Wine: A Visitor-Friendly Guide.

Tasting with the Godfather of Istria: Clai Winery

Clai is perhaps our favorite producer in Croatia. Giorgio Clai and his wife ran a few restaurants in Trieste, Italy, before moving to Istria and establishing a winery. They use no herbicides, insecticides, or commercial fertilizers in their eight-hectares vineyards. We first visited the winery last April, and our first taste of Clai wines blew us away.

Giorgio likes long maceration and his reds are dark and dense, while the whites are full-fledged amber wines. The reds are big and explosive with enough finesse and structure to keep many different types of palates happy. The whites are amber wines that manage to retain fruitiness; they don’t have the heavy nut and dried apricot flavors that many macerated amber wines tend to have. He is a legend on the Croatian market and his wines regularly sell every vintage. The workshop was packed and the room was buzzing. It’s nearly impossible to taste older vintages of

The workshop was packed and the room was buzzing. It’s nearly impossible to taste older vintages of Clai’s wines—they’re just not available on the market. All of his wines are so delicious and drinkable in their youth that there are not many older vintages out there.

In this workshop, we tasted several vintages of his Cru wines, Sv. Jakov and Brombonero. It showed how well these wines age.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S PICKS

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Clai, Ottocento bijeli 2014

The new entry-level white wine from Clai. Beautiful dandelion, peach, honey, and summer laundry nose—a gorgeous nose. Honeycomb in color due to the time on the skins. A blend of Malvazija Istarska, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc. Really ethereal mouthfeel, full bodied and rich yet fresh with nice acidity. There is just a gentle tannic feel from the skin contact, but it is minor. The finish stays in the mouth for a long time. Great effort for a rainy and difficult vintage.   4.7/5

Clai Ottocento White | €21,99 | Shop Here

• Clai, Sv. Jakov 2009

This is the reserve white wine from Clai. It’s made from 100% Malvazija Istarska and is tangerine in color. This is more earth- and mineral- driven in the nose than previous vintages, due to the aging. Ripe peach, yellow flower, and vanilla spice round out the flavors. Rich and full on the palate, the fruit takes over with a savory feel. This has an extremely smooth and long finish. A beautiful macerated white wine.   4.7/5

Clai Malvazija Sv. Jakov | €29,99 | Shop Here

• Clai, Brombonero 2009 

Clai’s flagship red made from Refošk grapes. It is made in very limited quantities. We tasted this wine from a magnum bottle. Still extremely dark in color, this is taking on some forest floor notes at eight years of age. Black plum, blackberry, leather, and pepper flavors dominate. This is very juicy on the palate and has a long life ahead of it. The finish has a touch of black pepper. This has the stuffings to age even further.   4.8/5

Clai Brombonero | €44,99 | Shop Here

Champagne, Champagne!

Charine loves bubbles. To clarify, Charine loves Champagne. So attending this workshop was not optional, it was a necessity for us.

Charles Heidsieck is better known for its larger brand, Piper Heidsieck. Wine nerds should not overlook Charles Heidsieck because they deliver big-time wines at reasonable prices compared to other premium champagne houses. Both non-vintage rosé and non-vintage brut champagnes really showed well compared to the vintage bottles.

Warning: this paragraph is strictly for wine nerds. What makes Charles Heidsieck wines unique is the high amount of reserve wines added to the base of their non-vintage champagne. They also place a cellar and disgorgement date on the back of the label. This adds a whole new level of transparency for the consumers.

 

Clearly, the Charles Heidsieck class was one of the most exciting masterclasses at the Vinart Grand Tasting event. Right after the last word of the presenter, almost everyone rushed to the bottle lineup to take pictures and pour out whatever was left in the bottle. Our presenter Drazan Sunjic (also our WSET educator) knows the champagne region and Champagne Charlie inside out.

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The workshop was a rousing success. There is not a huge selection of international wines available in Croatia and even fewer labels of champagne. When the class was finished, everybody rushed to the front of the room to take photos of the bottles and drink the last few drops of this stellar juice.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S PICKS

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Charles Heidsieck, Rosé Réserve NV

Light tangerine in color with fine bubbles. Brioche, lemon, and red berries with a touch of earthy notes. Nice strawberry notes on the palate with creamy mousse and a long finish. This isn’t overly yeasty and is very easy to drink. A champagne that all palates will enjoy, even those who are turned off by yeasty flavors.   4.4/5

• Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires, 1995

Blanc de Blanc Vintage Champagne made from 100% Chardonnay and aged for a minimum of 10 years. Full of butter, peach, slate, and a touch of biscuit nose. Pure elegance and beauty in a glass, a masterpiece. A wine that must be tasted, not described.   4.8/5

Cabernet Franc from… Hungary?

We have repeatedly heard that Villány, Hungary may be the second best area for Cabernet Franc outside of Loire, France. Every time someone told us that phrase, it seemed more like rehearsed marketing rhetoric than the truth. However, tasting these wines turned us into believers.

The Villányi wine region in the southwestern part of the county is described as the Bordeaux of Hungary. It is across the Danube river from Croatia. The hot summers and mild autumns allow for the production of Hungary’s biggest red wines. There are notable Bordeaux blends coming from the area. Cabernet Franc is a specialty and the top quality fruit is bottled under the name Villányi Franc.

All of the wines we had in this workshop qualified for the Villányi Franc name. They were the top red wines in each producer’s portfolio. Vinart presented us with six wines.

We just finished a tasting of excellent 2010 Bordeaux wines prior to this workshop. Our expectations for the Hungarian wines were not very high. What a treat! The quality across the board was shockingly good. The wines were extremely well-made, with rich texture and earthy notes. Here are our three favorites.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S PICKS

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Weninger & Gere, Villányi Franc 2013

Aged in French and Hungarian oak for 16 months. Earthy, with leafy vegetables, herbs, black cherry, and a touch of cedar. A medium-bodied wine with nice acidity and balance between greens and fruit, with soft yet palpable tannins. This is well made and delicious with a lot of character. I love the pencil lead finish.   4.2/8

• Vylyan Pinćeszet, Mandolás’ Villányi Franc 2012

Matured in oak for 16 months. Amazing nose and very fruit forward for Cabernet Franc with plum and black cherry. Green herbs and leafy veggies are present with a lot of graphite. Wonderful, round mouthfeel with nice flavor intensity in the mid-palate and a long finish.   4.5/5

• Bock, Villányi Franc (Fekete-Hegy Selection) 2011

Aged in new oak for two years. This is dark and really smells like Bordeaux. It is full of earth, chocolate, tobacco, black cherry, and cedar notes. This is rich and tannic. It is extremely ripe for Cabernet Franc and doesn’t have strong veggie characteristics, but it is a beautiful wine.   4.4/5

The Many Faces of Grenache

We have been reading the blog Wine On VI for some time and it was nice to meet author Miquel Hudin in person. While Miquel wrote a guidebook to wine travel in Dalmatia and is a Croatian citizen, the workshop was not about Croatian wine. Miquel currently lives in the Priorat region of Spain. He led a workshop on Grenache/Garnacha, which was a must-attend for us as we love wines made from this grape.

All five wines showed well and all brought a lot of thunder for the 15-25 Euros price range. Grenache is a grape that has a lot to offer. It gives the delicious red fruit flavors that are easy for many people to like, along with earthiness and spice to appease more discerning palates. A lot of people are more familiar with the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and for good reason. However, we find equal amounts of joy in Grenache-based wines from both the Languedoc-Roussillon area and different parts of Spain.

Miquel did a good job selecting wines from different areas and highlighting the subtle contrasts between them. It was an early Sunday morning class but everyone enjoyed it. Once again, Grenache-based wines showed their merits and packed some punch.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S PICKS

• Proyectos Garnachas de España, La Garnatxa Fosca del Priorat 2014

This is Priorate to a “T” for us. Vanilla, dark cherry, cedar, herb, earth, and crushed rock flavors. This wine is tart and the flavors wrap themselves around your palate, a touch of brett on the finish. Inexpensive and classy stuff.   4.2/5

• Domaine Treloar, One Block Grenache 2014

From Southern France, this wine is absolutely wonderful. Full of chocolate, cherry, pepper, cedar, orange peel flavors with a touch of brett. Well rounded and silky on the palate with an earthy finish. Top-notch quality from Côte du Roussillon, we can’t wait to make it there one day.   4.3/5

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    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Other Wine Events in Zagreb, Croatia
Croatia’s Wine Tasting Event: Zagreb Bubbles In Pictures
Zagreb VINOcom: Gems From Croatia’s Largest Wine Show
Graševina Without Borders: Eight Wines to Try

Disclosure:
Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Best of the VinArt Grand Tasting 2017: Part 2 appeared first on Wine Travel.

You have three seconds to answer this question: Which country has the largest area of vineyards planted?

Do you have the answer? Most people equate France with wine, and since France is a relatively good sized country, it makes sense that France could be the answer. Another common answer is Italy, since every region in the country produces wine. What about the United States? With wine grown and made in every state, in addition to the large state of California and its booming wine industry, the case could be made for good old ‘Merica. Even China has been creeping up the chart in the past years and is now in the top four.

However, the answer is Spain and by a pretty sizeable margin over number two France. I can make a case based on my experience traveling through Spain; wine is clearly a bigger part of their daily culture than any of the neighboring countries like Italy, France, and Portugal. Wine flows in abundance in Spain, as it evidently shows in the many selections by the glass and affordable prices at every bar and restaurant.

Taking the train along the Atlantic coast from Porto, Portugal, Charine and I had no idea what to expect as we had our eyes set on Galicia, Spain. To me, areas surrounding two country’s borders are soft landings—the languages, cultures, and atmospheres seem to create a gray zone around the political border. Once we crossed the Portugal-Spain border, the staff on the train switched from speaking Portuguese to Spanish, the street signs instantly changed, and it was almost as if life and train appeared to move slower.

The Wine Regions of Galicia

Arriving in Spain, for a start, we chose to base ourselves in the coastal town of Vigo—the lifeblood of the Spanish seafood industry. I came here on a mission to taste the up-and-coming wines from the regions of Galicia, including Monterrei, Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and Valdeorras. All of these regions are regulated as Denominacion de Origen (DO) which means consumers can rely on them to make good-quality wines as the government regulates production and vinification.

When talking about Spanish wine, most often, the first thing that comes to mind is Rioja and—to a lesser extent—Cava the sparkling wine. More informed wine nerds may think of Priorat and Ribera del Duero. Often falling off the radar in the international market are the wines from Galicia, which are good across the board and can be outstanding.

A look at the Spanish grape varieties: some of the notable ones for red wines are Mencia, Garnacha (Grenache), and Tempranillo. For the white wines: Torrentes, Treixadura, Caino, and Godello are widely used. One of the biggest stars among the white wine grapes is Albarino, which is grown in Riax Baixas.

My first introduction to Albarino and Galician wine was at a tasting in Singapore with the winemaker Raul Perez, whose wines have a cult-like following. His Albarino called Sketch received a lot of press because of its high scores and its unique wine-making process—the bottles are aged in the Atlantic Ocean. He also makes some drop dead gorgeous red wine out of Mencia. He also looks like Andy Garcia. Meeting him and drinking his wines really stirred up something inside me that compelled me to visit Galicia.

Wine pairing dinner with Spanish winemaker Raul Perez (left).

Galician Wine

A night out in Spain is very conducive and fun for exploring and drinking wine. The Spanish don’t eat dinner until late in the evening around 10. The time before the evening meal is meant for hours of tapas bar-hopping—in search of tipples and light bites, coupled with a lot of socializing.

Throughout Spain, wine-by-the-glass options are dominated by reds from Rioja. The great thing about the towns in Galicia is that besides Rioja, there is an abundance of local wines on the take, especially in Vigo. Vigo is peppered with tons of tapas bars with high-quality food and wine. In addition to that, Vigo is particularly refreshing because few visitors make their way up to Northwest, Spain. Most opt for Madrid, or the sunny south side in places like Barcelona, Valencia, or Granada.

Over lunch and dinner on a daily basis, Charine and I would try a large selection of wine. Each bar had at least five to six red and white wine options by the glass—all for just a few Euros each. I was in heaven as we swept up at least two different wines with each round, trying to absorb as much information and hedonistic pleasure as we could.

The wines I kept enjoying and going back to were the reds made from Mencia and whites made from Albarino.

The story of Mencia has a similar story as Barbera from Piedmont, Italy. For the longest time, Mencia was used for everyday, village wines that were thin and quaffable. Now this grape is going through somewhat of a renaissance; as Jancis Robinson noted, producers are starting to find that hills producing low yields can create fuller, outstanding wines with rich flavors and texture out of the Mencia grape.

To me, a good wine made from Mencia is like a thinner and more acidic northern Rhone Syrah with softer tannins. Imagine a less sweet and tart blackberry jam with pepper. It is incredibly easy to drink and the spiciness of the grape makes it even more attractive.

Mencia is grown in Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra, and Ribeiro. My favorite examples are from Ribeira Sacra. Through a lot of voluntary experimentation, I’ve found that it is one of those unique red wines that pair well with fish.

The undeniable star in Galicia is the Albarino from Rias Baixas. It is a thick-skinned white grape that has been making a name for itself in the international wine world. Popular for its beautiful mouthfeel, dense texture, and minerality, drinking Albarino is like taking in a mouthful of seawater breeze, mixed with rich tropical fruit flavors. It is a white that truly needs to be experienced. It also goes perfectly with the abundance of fish and seafood coming into the Vigo’s port.

A Real Gem Amongst Spanish Wine

I was beyond impressed with the wines from Galicia and the port city of Vigo. Most people head straight for the churches of the Galicia capital, Santiago de Compostela. However, if you want to touch a real unique place of the country, head up to the coast. Around Vigo, you’ll find joy in the magnificent beaches, inexpensive seafood, and remote offshore island. The wines are not too shabby either.

A look at the beach in the city of Vigo.

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Exotic Wine Travel, Episode 20: Spanish Cult Wines by Raul Perez

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