“Are you making low alcohol wines because you like them, or is it because it’s what consumers are looking for these days? “

Dirk Niepoort looked at me in the eye for a second before replying, “when it comes to these wines, I don’t give a s@#!t about what the consumer thinks.”

Dirk joined his family company in 1987. From Niepoort’s inception to that point, it was focused as a Port shipper. Dirk spearheaded the company’s transformation and foray into table wines. Today, Niepoort produces a wide range of Port wines and table wines in seemingly every region in Portugal.

Niepoort Vinhos

When Dirk joined Niepoort in 1987, his goal was to make great table wines. His first project was a wine called ‘Robustus’, which was released in 1990 followed by the ‘Redoma’ which was first released a year later. I’ll never forget my first taste of the former, which is anything but robust. Recent vintages have so much ripeness and fruit without being jammy or high in alcohol. The last vintage that I tasted clocked in at 12.2% ABV.

A wine geek at heart, Dirk is one of the most respected winemakers in all of Portugal. I first met him last year at the Douro Boys Auction 2019. After sharing several meals with him, his passion for wine became even more evident. As a Burgundy nut, Dirk crafts wines that he wants to drink.

Niepoort produces wines all over Portugal and collaborates with other winemakers on other projects labeled as Niepoort Projectos. Niepoort reds in places like the Douro, the Dão, and Bairrada show that the region can do more than just concentration and power. Niepoort’s examples are focused on finesse and elegance. They are dare I say, Burgundian.

When my friend first told me about these low alcohol wines (especially from the Douro), I was skeptical. After tasting the wines, I’m a believer. Better yet, these wines are found around the world at fair prices. Wine geeks need to seek these out.

• Fio, ‘Fio’ Riesling 2015 – Mosel, Germany

This is a project collaboration between two young guys and Dirk in the Mosel. It’s a traditional style Riesling that is aged in large casks for two years. Gorgeous nose of baked apple, slate, apricot, and white pepper. There’s plenty of richness and fruit here with perfectly integrated oak. The mineral finish caps off a real winner. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Nat Cool Branco 2019 – Vinho Verde

This is made in old school way of Vinho Verde, bottled with a touch of residual sugar so the wine would re-ferment and have some soft bubbles. It’s a blend of many grapes like Azal, Arinto, Avesso, Trajadura, and Loureiro. This wine has some sediment and cloudiness. Notes of the sea, along with beer yeast, lemon, and grass. Surprisingly fuller in body for a Vinho Verde than I would expect. Spritzy bubbles and lively, fun wine. Buyer beware, some people might think this smells too sulfurous and too much like eggs on the first whiff. You need context before getting served this wine. After a few days in the fridge, it shed its funkiness and what was left is a delicious, minerally white.  Score: 89/100

• Niepoort, Redoma Tinto 2018 – Douro

The Niepoort, Redoma Tinto is one of the staples in Dirk’s portfolio. It’s a field blend including grapes like Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cão, and Tinta Roriz. It’s aged in old oak for 22 months. Even though it’s young there are notes of leather along with sweet red cherry, blueberry, and some mineral tones. Excellent fruit concentration for a wine that is only 12.5% abv. It’s almost like a dense Pinot Noir. The palate is sensual with many layers and fine-grained tannins. Brilliant stuff. Score: 93+/100 

• Niepoort, Concisco 2014 – Dão

This is a field blend made from vines up to 100 years in age. Most of the varieties in the field are Baga and Jaen (Mencia). It’s aged in cask for 20 months. Like a red Burgundy with notes of red forest fruits, forest floor, leather, and pepper. Very complex and rich smelling for a poor vintage and a low alcoholic wine. The fruit is concentrated enough on the front end while the acidity stretches out the finish. Tannins are still a little chewy, which would allow this wine to age well. Very good for a tough vintage. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Bastardo 2018 – Douro

This grape is known as Trousseau in France. This is aged for 20 months in French oak. Very light in color for a red. Notes of fresh cut strawberry, raspberry, flint, white flower, and a touch of muskiness. Delicate and lighter on the palate with plenty of red fruit notes, vibrant acidity, and surprisingly chewy tannins. It reminds me of Nerello Mascalese from Etna. This is fresh and fun but I bet it could really start to soar after time in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Niepoort, Poerinho Baga 2014 – Bairrada

Made from vines of Baga that are over 100 years old. Aged for 20 months in large vats. At only 11% ABV, this really smells like a Burgundy. Savory with notes of leather, sour cherry, stems, and earth. The nose gives way to plenty of Old World notes. Medium-bodied, this doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that Baga can have. High acidity and a juicy finish. This is a wonderful effort for a tough vintage. Score: 91/100

*I talk about this bottle at 2:59 in the video below.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

You might also enjoy:

Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort: Low Alcohol Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Portuguese wine is the gift that keeps on giving.

This small country packs a punch when it comes to wine. It’s not a secret that I adore Portuguese wine and jump at the opportunity to taste it whenever possible. The world needs what Portugal has to offer. Delicious wines made from unique grapes at more than fair price points.

This year, thanks to COVID, it looks like I will miss my annual trip to Portugal. Thankfully, many producers have softened the blow by sending samples to taste. One of those organizations that came to my rescue is the Family Wine Growers Portugal.

Family Wine Growers Portugal

The Family Wine Growers Portugal is an agency that helps smaller producers distribute and export their wine all over the world. They reached out to me and asked me to taste several of the producers they represent. Based on what I tasted, they’ve chosen a fine set of producers for their portfolio.

“We make an assessment based on quality, family heritage, and ability to respond to export processes,” says Dora Caseiro, a co-owner of Family Wine Growers Portugal. “If a producer scores 90% in all of our parameters, we accept to manage their exports.”

All of the wines I tasted for this article show export potential. All of the wines are available in Portugal for less than 17 Euros on the shelf, many of them hovering around or under the 10 Euros range. Around the world, these wines should be able to be found at wallet-friendly prices. When it comes to price-quality, all of these wines deliver. The more Portuguese wine available, the merrier.

Wine Recommendations:

Portuguese White Wine

• Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato has notes of quince, white apricot, white peach, and a touch of yogurt. Full body and chewy, this tastes like it was barrel fermented. There’s a nice streak of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Longer finish. This is a rich, full-bodied white in the true Douro style. Score: 90/100

• Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho is a delicious, bigger style of Alvarinho with some Viosinho blended in for acidity. This has notes of lime, lemon, white flower, and cool yogurt notes. It’s a rich wine with depth and layers. The wine has length and a slight green streak to it along with a flinty, slatey finish. This will be fantastic with shellfish all the way up to creamy chicken dishes. Score: 90+/100

• S. Caetano, Alvarinho 2019

The S. Caetano, Alvarinho is a beautiful crispy white wine and a great value to boot (comes in at under 10 Euros in Porugal). Notes of lime, lemon, and seawater. This has the zesty acidity that is common with the grape on a bigger-bodied frame. This is the perfect shellfish wine. Tangy finish. Score: 90/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva 2017

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva is from the Dão and partially aged in oak. It’s a gorgeous wine. There are notes of quince, green pear, and white peach along with subtle yogurt and mineral notes. It’s an elegant, medium-bodied white that sits nicely on the palate. Bracing acidity for a barrel-aged wine and a long, salty, and mineral-driven finish. Score: 91/100

• Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto 2017

The Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto is a sparkling wine from Arinto, Chardonnay, and Baga. This has spent 9 months in the bottle. Notes of mineral, white flower, white pear, lemon, and a hint of biscuit. This has a fine bead of bubbles. Fruity and easy to drink with just a hint of complexity. This has a hint of volatile acidity, which adds to the complexity. Crisp and clean finish. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco is a barrel-aged blend of Semillon and Arinto. It is shy at first as the wood sticks out at the beginning. As the wine breathes and gains air there are flavors of white flower, white pear, white peach, and white apricot. Oily mouthfeel with well-integrated wood. There is a line of bright acidity that stretches the palate. This is good now but it really built to age. Score: 90+/100

Portuguese Red Wine

• Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva 2015

The Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and other varieties aged in new oak for 12 months. It’s hard to believe that this is five years old, it smells like really fresh red wine. There are notes of black cherry pie, mulberry, and a little white pepper. It’s a fruit dominant red. Full-bodied and plush it has mouth-coating tannins. The fruit carries through all the way and the alcohol isn’t felt. Easy drinking, full-bodied red now but it has the potential to improve in the cellar. Score: 89/100

• S. Caetano, Vinhão 2018

The S. Caetano, Vinhão is a unique Vinho Verde Tinto made from Vinhão aka Sousão. Dark and inky with notes of blackberry, black raspberry, black cherry, and a hint of black licorice. On the first sniff, you might think that it’s a big, brooding red but there is plenty of acidity here. The acid isn’t searing like many examples of the grape can be but there’s enough of it. Soft tannins and a refreshing, fresh red to sip on without fuss. Score: 87/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature 2015

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature is a brilliant red wine. Made from Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. This isn’t a big bomb, there’s plenty of fruit here but it doesn’t overwhelm you with ripeness. Flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, black tea, menthol, and gravel. There’s enough fruit upfront with subtle complexities on the backend. The tannins build slowly but are never too dry. High acidity that should ensure this has a long life ahead. They call Dão the Burgundy of Portugal and one taste of this will tell you why. Score: 92/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional 2016

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional is another delicious Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. The nose draws you in right away with the notes of blackberry, red raspberry, crushed flowers, and pine. It’s a dark, inky red wine that is generous on the palate right from the first sip. The tannins are chewy and sweet, which feel great in the mouth. This is a beauty to drink now. Score: 91/100 

• Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva 2015

The Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga, Syrah, and Merlot. It’s a wine that has resisted aging with notes of blackberry, black cherry, and a touch of tobacco & pencil lead. It’s a big, fruity wine that has the oak under control. There’s a mouthful of fruit up front with some grippy tannins on the back end. It’s a delicious red but doesn’t have the refinement to be great but it doesn’t have to be. At this price, this is a real winner. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Tinto is a blend of Caledoc and Touriga Nacional. This is beautiful and very Portuguese in flavor. Notes of blackberry, black raspberry, bramble, stems, and pepper notes. This has plenty of ripe fruit but it isn’t a big wine, it’s more medium-bodied. Chewy tannins and vibrant acidity. Delicious and accessible. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva 2007

Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. There is beautiful development here with notes of leather, tobacco, dried raspberry, dried cherry, and pepper. The palate still has substantial tannins and an earthy finish. There’s plenty of plush, developed fruit with high acidity. It acts almost Pinot Noir-esque. If you want the taste of aged wine that doesn’t break the bank, this is worth checking out. Score: 91/100

Do you like our content?

If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Thanks to the Family Wine Growers Portugal and the wineries for arranging samples to be sent. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Portuguese Wine |The More, The Merrier appeared first on Wine Travel.

“Be careful with Bairrada now!”

The first time Charine and I visited Portugal, we chose a Bairrada of the wine list. The sommelier’s eyes lit up when we asked for the bottle. He gave us a warning about the wine’s fierce tannins as he grinned from ear to ear.

The most age-worthy Bairrada reds are made from Baga, a grape capable of producing great wines in the right vintage. The grape has a thin skin and ripens late. Because of the Atlantic climate of Bairrada, producers often have to battle elements as the rain starts falling in early Autumn. Winemakers have to either pick early, unripe grapes or risk losing their crop to rot.

When the vintage is warm and Baga gets fully ripe, it can produce deep, subtly powerful wines that remind me of Nebbiolo. The wines also age exceptionally well thanks to the high levels of acidity and tannins. These are wines for fans of the old world, where earthy notes and subtle complexities are emphasized, not big fruit and oakiness.

Baga Friends

Five years after first visiting Portugal, I found myself in Bairrada hanging out with the Baga Friends. They are a band of seven producers hails from Bairrada in central Portugal. They have one mission in mind, promoting the fickle grape Baga. They also happen to be some of the finest producers in Portugal.

During a rather hedonistic afternoon, the Baga Friends poured their 2015 releases in addition to archive wines from their cellars. I thought I was simply attending a masterclass. After reaching the Luis Pato winery, a number of friends from the wine world kept randomly appearing. The simple masterclass I showed up for, turned into a long lunch, cellar visits, and a gut-busting feast for dinner.

During a tasting of the 2015 Bairradas from the Baga Friends, I found some wines to have incredible depth and complexity. There were also wines that showed the austere side of the grape. The best examples showed the potential to last a long time in the cellar.

Drinking Bairrada young isn’t always easy. The wines can be hard and vegetal in poor vintages and the real magic happens with bottle age as the tannins begin to soften. Luckily it seems that the 2015 vintage is a warm approachable one, so you can drink them on the younger side with confidence.

In cooler vintages, the tannins might be too green and astringent to drink young. In those cases, it might be wise to heed the advice of the sommelier we met during our first visit to the country. Be careful with Bairrada indeed.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Luis Pato, Vinha Pan 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The latest Vinha Pan from Luis Pato is gorgeous. Notes of forrest berry, rubber, pepper, red plum, and cedar. It’s full-bodied with high acidity. This has an attractive earthy, long finish. There is a lot to like here. Score: 92+/100

• Quinta de Baixo, Poeirinho Garrafeira 2015

Quinta de Baixo is a property taken over by Dirk Niepoort. The Poeirinho Garrafeira is the estate’s top wine based on Baga. It has notes of red fruit, earth, fall leaves, pepper… really like Red Burgundy. This has 50-60% stem inclusion. A wine to age, it has an earthy and savory note to it. Small, grippy tannins and long finish. Score: 93/100

• Quinta da Vacariça, Garrafeira Tinto 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Quinta da Vacariça is a small property owned by Frenchman François Chasans. This Garrafeira Tinto is leathery and savory. Red plum, pine, and sour cherry. Very round and refined, French in style. Savory and long finish guided by firm tannin. Of all the vintages I’ve had from Quinta da Vacariça, the 2015 is by far the best. Score: 92+/100

• Sidónio de Sousa, Reserva 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

We’ve had several vintages of Sidónio de Sousa in the past, so it was nice to finally meet this producer face to face. This wine is stemmy with notes of raspberry, cherry, earth, and pepper. This has searing acidity and a high level of tannin. This is more approachable than previous vintages. Score: 90/100

• Buçaco, Tinto Reservado 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The wines from Buçaco are old school in style, which I love. This vintage is stemmy, with raspberry, earth, and pepper notes. It’s tight and built to age with some fierce tannins. Please note that these wines become beautiful with age and this may very well shoot up in score. But right now, it needs a lot of time in the bottle. Score: 93/100

• Quinta das Bágeiras, Garrafeira Tinto 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira Tinto has notes of leather, plum, black cherry, pepper, and earth. Rich and full with an earthy kick. The small tannins and high acidity give the wine a very French feel. Put this one in the cellar for another 10 years to let the tannins soften. Score: 91/100

• Filipa Pato, Nossa Calcario 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Filipa Pato is the daughter of Luis Pato. She produces small quantities of minimal intervention wines and this wine is made from vines over 130 years of age. This wine is tight and a bit closed now. Raspberry, stems, earth, pepper, and a touch of leather make up the flavor profile. Old school style of wine and is high in acidity and tannins. When these wines age, they develop lots of complexity, so put this one away for another 5-10 years before opening it. Score: 92/100

• Baga Friends, Bairrada 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Baga Friends Bairrada is a blend of wines from all the producers in the group. There are notes of leather, earth, and spice on the savory side of the spectrum. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry make up the fruit notes. This is rich and full with high tannins and acid. Score: 90+/100

Do you like our content?

If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Thanks to the Baga Friends for having me at their annual tasting and the cover photo for this article. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Baga Friends 2015 Releases appeared first on Wine Travel.