Wines made in small clay pots?

In the Fall of 2019, the Wines of Alentejo took me through a one-week jaunt of cellars in this part of Portugal. During the trip, I visited a number of producers who are making wines in clay vessels. Portugal is home to the only appellation in the world dedicated to this technique, known as Vinho de Talha DOC. A year after my first trip to the region, I bumped into a producer of Vinho de Talha that really caught my attention.

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel is a small project by childhood friends Daniel Parreira and Ricardo Santos. There are 26 amphorae (talhas) in the cellar, hence the name XXVI Talhas. Mestre Daniel is the name of Daniel’s grandfather, who was the original owner of the cellar.

The Vinho de Talhas from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are my favorite wines from the appellation. They produce small batches of wine and even single Talha wines (wines coming from a single amphora, like a barrel selection). XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel also produces a line of fresher wines made in small clay pots (no larger than 300 liters). This small pot is called a ‘tareco’.

“We make the ‘do tareco’ wines because we try to do a style as close as possible to the wine we start drinking just after Saint Martin day (11 November),” Ricardo tells me. “All the small producers are waiting for that special day to have their winery full of people,” he continues.

“We bottled the 2020 tareco wines just after 11 November, they are young and fresh, almost like the wine taken from the traditional talhas. The grapes are the same as our Vinho de Talha line but there is maceration time.”

Do Tareco

Do Tareco translates to “from clay pots” and are bottled immediately after Saint Martin’s day. It’s a day dedicated to feasting and drinking fresh wine. I was skeptical before trying the XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco wines. My assumption was that the wines would be too angular, lacking both complexity and drinkability.

Thank goodness, I was wrong. In this style, the Do Tareco wines are stellar. All three wines brim with texture and charisma. Scrap the Beaujolais Noveaux and give these wines a try. Wines made in clay vessels are all the rage these days and these bottles from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are examples done right.

Wine Recommendations:

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco is a blend of Perrum, Manteúd, Larião, Diagalves, Roupeiro, and Antão Vaz macerated for two months in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a beautiful, pure white wine with notes of pineapple, chalk, white peach, and guava. The nose has the sensation of dried fruit while it has more dried fruit flavors in the mouth. Tannins are a little chewy here. This is a Vinho de Talha (Alentejan amphora wines) in it’s purest form. I’m a big fan. Score: 90/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco 2020

Palhete is traditionally a blend of grapes left over from the harvest, both white and red. The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco is basically a deeper rosé that was fermented in small clay pots (tareco). All of the grapes for this wine are harvested and fermented together. Notes of raspberry, cherry, and earthy clay. This is more of a light red with some tannin to it. Bright acidity that cuts through the palate. This is delicious and has the ability to pair with a number of different foods. Essentially, it’s an extreme natural wine in style but those who like conventional wines will find a lot to like here. Score: 90+/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco is a blend of Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, and Tinta Grossa fermented in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a fresh red with notes of sour cherry, raspberry, pepper, and mineral notes. Juicy and fruit-forward with a small amount of tannin and a long finish. The acidity here is beautiful for Alentejo (which is a hot region). Drink this on the chilled side. Fans of Cru Beaujolais will find a lot to like here. Score: 91/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Check Out These & Other Portuguese Natural Wines

You can pick up XXVI Talhas and other Portuguese natural wines at Real Portuguese Wine. Use our discount code and get 10% off. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, you get a discount, and help support our work.

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XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco appeared first on Wine Travel.

Real Portuguese Wine is aiming to bring Portuguese natural wine to the world!

In the Fall of 2019, I did my annual trip to Portugal. I spent a riveting two and a half weeks traveling through the Douro, Dão, Bairrada, and Alentejo. The trip wrapped up in the capital of Lisbon, where I found myself at Black Sheep Lisboa.

The bar is owned by an American couple and sits in the heart of Lisbon. Over the course of an evening, proprietor Brian Patterson kept my glass full of Portuguese natural wines. Throughout the night, people from all walks of life from Britain to Holland to Canada and the USA back to Portugal. The evening felt like an episode of the old sitcom “Cheers”.

Real Portuguese Wine

Fast forward a few months and Brian reached out to me on Instagram.

He was excited to share the launch of his new venture Real Portuguese Wine. His goal is to present honest, artisanal, natural Portuguese wines to the world. “I’ve been studying and working with Portuguese wines for ten years,” Brian says. “I have a personal relationship with every winemaker in our portfolio. Every wine is curated by me and is a reflection of my time, care, and consideration.”

Natural wine is on the rise around the world, trendy wine bars and restaurant lists are loaded of them. With more attention and demand comes increases in price. This is where Portuguese natural wine really shines, especially these bottles from Real Portuguese Wine.

Portugal is already known for producing wines that exceed their price points. It’s in the Portuguese DNA, fantastic wine at affordable prices is like a birthright. Producers of Portuguese natural wine are cut from the same cloth. Many of these wines would go for double or triple if it was from a different country of origin. Scoop these Portuguese natural wines while you can.

Wine Recommendations:

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• Antonio Madeira, Branco

The Antonio Madeira, Branco is a blend of 2017 & 2018 vintages. This is a macerated field blend. It’s a clean orange wine with notes of sweet peach, sliced apricot, minerals, and a kiss of oak. This is a chewy, clean orange wine. Soft tannins and a lemony, mineral finish. A wine with real soul and pure fun to drink. Score: 90/100

• Torre de Tavares, Mencia 2018

Torre de Tavares aims to produce the pure expression of the Dão. The grape Mencia is also known as Jaen in Portugal. It has notes of red plum, forest berries, stems, and bubblegum. It’s dark-colored, fruity, and plush. There are some chewy tannins here that beg for food. This is a wild, stemmy take on this grape and I adore it. If this does see oak aging, you can’t taste it. Make sure to give it some air before drinking. Score: 89/100

• Arribas, Saroto 2019

The Arribas, Saroto is made from old vines, in the Trás-os-Montes region. There are so many varieties planted in the vineyards, that the Arribas owners don’t know what they all are. They do know there’s plenty of Douro grapes here. Notes of strawberry, raspberry, pepper, and a touch of violets. This is juicy and low in alcohol. There is plenty of acidity here. The tannic structure isn’t big but they do sneak up on you. Conventional wine drinkers will find this too thin and acidic. However, in the style of easy-drinking, minimal intervention reds, I think this is very well done. Score: 90/100 

• Duckman, Branco 2019

Made by Maria João Pato, daughter of Luis Pato. The Duckman, Branco is made from Bical aged in wood for six months. Notes of bright tropical fruit like pineapple and starfruit along with some lemon and white flower notes. This is an extreme white wine that is full of flavor. There is a touch of tannin here which adds to the complexity. There’s a fine lemongrass finish. There’s a lot of sediment here but don’t be scared. Crazy and full of personality. Score: 90+/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco 2019

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel is named after the 26 Talhas (amphorae) in his small cellar. The Branco is a blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro fermented in Talha (amphora). Only filtered off using the stems. Attractive notes of daffodil, fresh-cut pineapple, chalk, and even some red cherry. Full-bodied and surprisingly fruity on the palate. Gentle tannins on the back end. In general, I tend to favor red Vinho de Talha over whites. These two wines from Mestre Daniel are giving me a change of heart. Score: 91/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez (Tempranillo), and Tinta Grossa fermented in talha (amphora). Gorgeous nose of black cherry, blackberry, violets, and earth. It smells a lot like a cooler climate red. It’s not a big alcoholic monster, it’s tart and herbal on the palate. More medium in body. The complexity here is undeniable and the interplay between fruit and earth is very attractive. Chewy tannins. Score: 91/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha X 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha X is a blend of Antão Vaz, Diagalves, Perrum, Roupeiro, and Manteúdo from one single Talha (amphora). Notes of sweet peach, chamomile tea, tangerine, and pineapple with a touch of chalk. This is a wine that shows concentration beyond what the alcohol level (11.5%) suggests. Generous fruit on the mouth which has many layers of texture. This has more richness, tannin, and staying power than the standard ‘Branco’ bottling. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, ‘Talha XV’ Tinta Grossa 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha XV is made from a single Talha (amphora) It is 100% Tinta Grossa. Very pretty nose of red raspberry, red plum, and incense with some chalky tones. This has a mouth full of pure fruit flavors along with some subtle stemmy notes. This carries its 14% abv very well and feels plenty fresh in the mouth. The tannins are round and surprisingly plush for a red that is young and didn’t see oak. Long finish, as far as Vinho de Talha reds go, this is the cream of the crop. Score: 92+/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Real Portuguese Wine and XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Real Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Amphora wines are in fashion these days and are produced all over the world. While making wines in amphora (qvevri) may have originated in Georgia, the technique was revitalized by Joško Gravner (Collio, Italy). But, it is Portugal that has the world’s only appellation dedicated to wines made in amphora.

In Alentejo, these vessels go by the name “talha”. It is derived from the Latin word “Tinalia” which refers to a large pot or vessel. In the past, talhas were used to store liquids like wine and olive oil. Today, the region is at the forefront of this new (yet ancient) style of Portuguese wine.

DOC Vinho de Talha

In 2012, the DOC “Vinho de Talha” was introduced. The law states that grapes can be grown in all eight subregions of Alentejo. To be certified as a Vinho de Talha, the wine must stay in the talha (amphora) from harvest until at least 11th of November. This is St. Martin’s day and marked the day when the Talhas were tapped traditionally to enjoy the wine throughout the year.

You can learn more about talha winemaking and the traditions in the short video below.

Portuguese wine from amphora in Alentejo dates back to Roman times, around 2000 years ago. Although the traditions have persisted in the region, it’s only recently that the wines have had a commercial renaissance. Many of the wineries, big and small, have added Vinho de Talha wines to their portfolio.

One distinctive difference in the amphora winemaking in Alentejo is the bunghole at the bottom of the vessel. Unlike qvevri in Georgia, the amphorae in Alentejo are not buried. They are kept above ground and the finished wine is drained out through a bunghole in the bottom, instead of being pumped out from the top of the vessel.

Youth is another major difference in Vinho de Talha wines versus many amphora wines made in other parts of the world. All of the wines I tasted were from the previous harvest and were not aged in anything other than talha and bottle. The reds and the whites all have chewy tannins. It was also great to see that none of the wines were oxidized. In general, Of all the wines I tasted, the red “Vinho de Talhas” showed better than the whites.

There are no current producers of high-quality talhas in Portugal. It’s difficult for producers to hunt down amphorae in good condition. Limited vessels mean that the production of Vinho de Talha is small.

Professor Talha

To really understand the modern talha movement in Alentejo, you must see the “professor”.

Professor Arlindo Maria Ruivo was instrumental in the formation of the Vinho de Talha DOC. He has one of the largest collections of talhas in the region at around 50. Visiting his cellar in the small village of Vila de Frades was the highlight of my trip through the region. It’s a small cellar under the family home but brims with energy and romanticism (similar to Gravner’s cellar in Collio, Italy).

I couldn’t directly communicate with the professor but could see the genuineness in his eyes and hear the passion in his voice. Professor Arlindo learned the art of talha winemaking in the 1960s by his father-in-law who founded the Adega Vidigueira cooperative winery.

Professor Arlindo produces small batches of wine with his granddaughter Teresa. I got a sneak preview of the wines and can’t wait to taste the finished products, they will be bottled under the name Gerações da Talha. It’s only right that the godfather of the modern talha movement has his own brand on the market.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

*The production of Vinho de Talha is limited, which means that many of these wines are only available at the wineries.

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Roupeiro 2018

Made from the grape Roupeiro, which stays on the skins for three months. Interesting nose of sweet peach, green guava, caramel, and dried apricot. This is a fantastic amphora. Weighty on the palate with salty and mineral notes. This has a slight sherry note on the finish. Gritty texture and a long finish. Just a touch of grippy tannins. Score: 90/100

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Moreto 2018

The Esporaão Vinho de Talha Moreto is lighter in color for a red with notes of cherry, farm mud, mocha, and white pepper. Medium-bodied and juicy on the palate, you cannot feel the 14% of alcohol. Really nervy acidity and grippy tannin. Savory texture and good length on the palate. Score: 91+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (white) 2016

The José de Sousa Puro Talha White is an extreme wine, it’s a blend of Antão Vaz, Manteúdo, and Diagalves. Fermented in talhas and aged with a layer of olive oil on top to prevent oxidation, old school style. Low in alcohol at 12% abv. It spends four months with the skins. Old school in style with pumpkin, apricots, ginger. High acidity, this is a bit funky and almost tastes unfinished. Has a sherry-like finish. Very challenging and unique white wine. In between an orange wine and a sherry. Score: 90+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (red) 2015

The José de Sousa Puro Talha red is made with Grand Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonez aged for 16 months in Talha and covered with olive oil. This is lower in alcohol at 12.5% ABV with an attractive nose of forest berry, fall leaves, earth, and cherry. This almost smells like a Sangiovese. Medium-bodied and elegant, this has very high acidity. The firm tannins beg for food but they aren’t overly drying. Score: 91/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Branco 2018

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Art. Terra Amphora Branco is mostly Arinto with some Antão Vaz. The wine stayed on the skins for three months in Talha. There are flavors of lemon, white peach, and tangerine peel. It is fresher than a normal orange wine. There is a slight nuttiness on the finish, but overall it is crisp. Salty and low level of tannins. Score: 89/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Tinto 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The São Miguel Art. Terra Amphora red is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Moreto. Notes of pine, blackberry, black plum, and pepper. This is medium-bodied and silky with firm tannins. This has bright acidity to keep the wine light. Unique, delicious, and well made with a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Herdade do Rocim, Amphora 2018

The Herdade do Rocim Amphora is a blend of Moreto, Trincadeira, Tinta Grossa, and Aragonez. Notes of sour cherry, green herbs, pepper, and burnt meat. This is wild and juicy with firm tannins. Distinctive and unique. Very delicious. Made in amphora with no temperature control and indigenous yeasts. Score: 90+/100

• Vidigueira, Vinho de Talha 2018

The Vidigueira Vinho de Talha is a blend of grapes from bush vines over 100 years old. Grapes are Antão Vaz, Larião, Diagalves, Manteúdo, Perrum and Siria on the skins for three months. Concentrated with apricot, white peach, lemon peel, and fall leaves. Full-bodied and rich with about 2.5 g/L of RS. Full and chewy, ripe tannins, and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Cartuxa, Vinho de Talha 2017

The Cartuxa Vinho de Talha is made from Alicante Bouschet kept in the talha for eight months. There is a dark core of fruit with black cherry, blackberry, mulberry, smoke, and earth. This is full-bodied with firm tannins. It has weight and texture. The tannins are a bit fierce now and it would be interesting to see where this goes with time. Score: 89/100

• Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim, Alvarinho 2018 – Vinho Verde

The Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim Alvarinho is a cooperation between Herdade de Rocim in Alentejo and Quinta de Santiago in Vinho Verde. It’s made from Alvarinho. The grapes stay on the skins for two months and are fermented only in amphora. There are notes of yeast, lemon, and lime. This is a fresh white wine with texture. The time on the skins give texture but no tannins. Lively acidity rushes through the palate, tastes like a Cru Muscadet with a long finish. Score: 92/100 

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Thanks to the Vinhos do Alentejo for providing the appointments and accommodation during my stay. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Vinho de Talha: Portuguese Wine from Amphora appeared first on Wine Travel.