Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated.

Mauro Sebaste

Barolo is one of Italy’s and the world’s greatest wines. The prices of these wines have risen considerably in the past decade. Some classic Barolos have gone through the roof in price. Is it still possible to find value in the region? Enter Mauro Sebaste.

If you talk to hardcore fans of Piedmontese wines, they can recall the wines of Mauro Sebaste. However, due to property disputes and other obstacles, the wines fell into obscurity. In recent years, Mauro Sebaste has been working hard to restore their name and once again climb to the top of the quality ladder.

The recent set vintages prove that Mauro Sebaste is on the right track. All of the wines I taste are very good with one being outstanding. All of the wines are focused on elegance and pleasure, not extraction and wood. If you’ve been searching for an under-the-radar producer in the region, look no further.

Wine Recommendations:

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Casa Berzia’ Diano d’Alba 2019

“This is the first Dolcetto I’ve wanted multiple glasses of!”

Charine’s enthusiasm is a true testament to the lovely Mauro Sebaste, ‘Casa Berzia’ Diano d’Alba 2019. This is 100% Dolcetto. It’s a more delicate style of this grape. Notes of blueberry, cranberry, incense, and a touch of hazelnut. It’s plush and fruity up front with chewy tannins on the backend. It’s more complex than your average Dolcetto. Score: 88/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Centobricchi’ Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2017

The Mauro Sebaste, ‘Centobricchi’ Barbarea d’Alba Superiore is a single-vineyard Barbera aged in wood. This is bigger and denser at 15.5% ABV. There are notes of cherry, mocha, leather, peat, and a touch of tangerine peel. It’s a fantastic, fruity red with plenty of complexity. There’s ripe fruit, crunchy acidity, and a touch of tannins. Long finish. Score: 90/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Costemonhisio’ Nizza 2017

The Mauro Sebaste, ‘Costemonhisio’ Nizza is 100% Barbera. Pretty nose of violet, cranberry, cherry, and earth. There’s plenty of fruit here on the front with the structure to hold it together on the back end. There are some big-time tannins here and the acidity is high. Nizzas age really well, This is young and not close to showing its full potential. Score: 91/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Parigi’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2018

Mauro Sebaste, ‘Parigi’ Nebbiolo d’Alba has notes of cranberry, sour cherry, smoke, and crushed roses. Round on the palate with very bright, citrusy acidity. The red fruit stands out here with a touch of earthiness on the palate. Small, grippy tannins. It’s a ‘Baby Barolo’ that offers tremendous value for money. Score: 90+/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Trèsüri’ Barolo 2016

The Mauro Sebaste, ‘Trèsüri’ Barolo is a blend of three vineyards, with most of the fruit coming from La Morra. This 100% Nebbiolo is elegant and nuanced. Notes of rose petal, perfume, sour cherry, cranberry, and a hint of leather. This is a Barolo that is drinking fine right out of the gate. There’s a sensual feel on the palate and the tannins hit hard on the back end. Great length for an entry-level Barolo. Score: 92/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Cerretta’ Barolo 2016

The Mauro Sebaste, ‘Cerretta’ Barolo is from this magical vineyard in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. Usually, the Barolos from this commune are rich and structured, requiring a lot of bottle age to soften the tannins. This is different. It’s elegant and ready to go right from the bottle. There are notes of leather, smoke, sour cherry, perfume, and rose petal. It’s more of an elegant Barolo, not a monster like typical Serralunga d’Albas. Ripe tannins and a long, spicy finish. It’s everything you could want in a classic Barolo. Score: 94+/100

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Thanks to Mauro Sebaste for the wines. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Mauro Sebaste: A Piedmont Gem appeared first on Wine Travel.

In 2016, we spent three months in Croatia; and we’ll be returning to the country again in 2017 for a few more months to finish up the research and writing for our latest wine book entitled Cracking Croatia. During our stay, we wanted to organize a special tasting session for our Croatian friends, as excellent Italian wines aren’t exactly accessible in the country. With some heavy lifting research by Matt and help from our Italian friend Stefano, we ordered a case of Italian wines from Stefano’s wine shop called La Vite Turchese in Barolo. Since we were in the European Union, it was a fuss-free process to ship the wines from Italy to Croatia.

Unboxing the wines from Italy.

Within a week, the case of wines was delivered. Matt was so excited about the wines that, during the time between the arrival of the wines to when we had our tasting, he was taking the bottles out of the box, looking at them, patting them, then slipping them back into the box for a few times a day. And this entire process of adoration happened every day until the momentous evening when we finally got to drink the wines.

Then, Charine had an idea. Why not make a game out the session? Why not create a mini challenge? She thought it’d be great to present a few examples of the finest Croatian wine alongside the Italian wines. She reached out to two famous Croatian producers that we personally respect and they agreed to participate. It was decided that the Croatian wines would be tasted blind; we wouldn’t mention that they are Croatian wines but merely state that the wines are non-Italian.

The Big Night: Vino Rosso Versus Crno Vino

Flight 1: Light Italian Reds

1.  (Vini Franchetti) Passopisciaro, Passorosso 2013 – Sicily, Italy    [Vinous: 90 Points]

Made from Nerello Mascalese grapes, sustainably farmed from 70- to 100- year-old vines that are grown at an altitude of between 500 and 1000 meters on the slopes of Etna. Aged for 18 months in large oak barrels. 

Wild yet subtle. A perfumed nose of red berries, fresh Mediterranean herbs, smoke, and earth. A lean but expressive palate delivering the flavors suitably with medium-plus acidity and soft tannins. This is an honest wine that captures the charm of Etna well with its smoky and slate notes.

2.  Ottin, Pinot Nero 2013 – Valle d’Aosta, Italy

This is the wild card of the tasting as we have no prior experience with Pinot Noir from Valle d’Aosta. Ottin is one of the most well-known producers in Valle d’Aosta. Made from organic grapes planted on steep, south-facing terraces at 590 meters above sea level.

This wine is humble on the nose and theatrical on the palate. Flavors of barnyard, red berries, pine, and grass. It has medium-plus acidity, a light tug of tannins, and an expressive mid-palate spike. On the end palate, the wine takes a swift turn and displays some spicy notes. At a shop price of €18 (in Italy), this wine is a steal for the experience it delivers. We’re intrigued and look forward to tasting more Pinot Noirs from Valle d’Aosta.

3.  Montevetrano, Core 2014 – Campania, Italy    [Vinous: 90 Points]

We’ve had dense and highly structured Aglianico based wines, as well as lighter and fruity examples. This is the entry-level red from a famous producer in Campania. We have no idea what to expect from this wine.

This has a dark hue and a dense body, so it doesn’t fit the theme of this flight. An immediate sign of a warmer climate wine with flavors of raisin, plum, black cherry, mocha, cardamom, and licorice. The aroma is intriguing, with a whiff of blood and iron—like a blue rare steak. The tannins are firm and sandy but not harsh. Impressive structure and a good balance between fruit and spice that seem to hint at us: Please go order another plate of pršut (Croatian dry cured ham). The perfect bold wine to have on a cold day, but a waste to be consuming it right now at such a young age; this will be spectacular with a few more years of bottle aging.

Thoughts on Flight 1, Light Italian Reds:

The Pinot Noir is the favorite of the majority. But Matt has a differing opinion: he enjoys the Etna Rosso most. However, other people in the group find that wine light, simple, and even a tad rustic. The third wine, which is an Aglianico blend, has its supporters as well. One of our friends likes the wine so much that he wants to keep the bottle close to him the whole evening. When the server tries to clear the bottle, he snatches it back immediately and it remains by his side for the rest of the evening.

Flight 2: Barbera

4.  Roberto Voerzio, Barbera d’Alba, Vigneti Cerreto 2011 – Piedmont, Italy    [Vinous: 89 Points]

From a renowned producer in Piedmont. Fermentation in steel tanks; aged for 12 months in 30% new and 70% used oak barrels, then transferred to steel tanks for eight months of further aging before bottling.

Relatively full and fleshy, compared to the other Barbera wines we’ve had. Flavors of both red and black fruits, chocolate, clove, and sweet cedar. A clear trace of mineral characteristic lingers. Satin-like finish with soft tannins. A great food wine that makes Charine crave an Osso Buco (a Milanese specialty of braised veal shanks).

5.  Michele Chiarlo, Cipressi, Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2013 – Piedmont, Italy    [Decanter: 90 Points]

Aged for one year in cask, followed by aging in bottle for at least nine months.

Young and oaky. The ripe fruitiness shines through in this Barbera. Flavors of cranberry, cola, maraschino cherry, and vanilla. Medium bodied with bright acidity, a combination that’s asking for a solid food companion. 

Thoughts on Flight 2, Barbera:

This isn’t a fair comparison as the wines are from different vintages. Everyone prefers the former to the latter. That’s not to say that the Barbera d’Asti isn’t a good wine, it’s just that the Barbera d’Alba has a higher drinkability right now.

Flight 3: Surprise

6.  Boškinac, Cuvée 2012 – Kvarner, Croatia 

Available at wineandmore.com

Note: This wine is tasted blind. A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in French barriques for 24 months. We’ve had this wine several times and it always shows up well. In fact, the Boškinac Cuvée 2007 is on our ‘Top 10 Wines of Croatia’ list.

This has an opulent bouquet that gets practically everyone to sit up. Aroma characteristics include red pepper flakes, tobacco, leather, bonfire, red berries, and cassis. Full in the mouth and delivers a touch of heat with more emphasis on dried fruit notes. It finishes off with an extremely long, sweet cedar characteristic. 

Thoughts on Flight 3, Surprise:

It’s fun to present this blind, as it validates the pride of our Croatian friends and our trust in the fineness of Croatian wine. The table is full of “ooouuuhhsss” and “aaahhhhssss” after the first sniff of this wine. The wine has a lot of aging potential. But as it is now, even without the future tertiary complexity, it’s already a crowd pleaser. It has a lot to live up to as this is a prequel to the Nebbiolo wines. So let’s see how the night goes.

Flight 4: Nebbiolo From Langhe

7.  Brovia, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Valmaggiore 2013 – Piedmont, Italy 

A Brovia Goblet Sue Barolo 2008 was what turned Matt into a Barolo lover.

Grown on south-facing vineyards with calcareous and sandy soil, at 350 meters above sea level. No pesticide or herbicide is used in the vineyards; spraying is done with only copper and sulfur, and using manure as a natural fertilizer. No fining or filtration. This comes from Valmaggiore in Roero, an area known for wines that are structured and tannic, so much so that they are sometimes compared to the wines from Barolo.

The predominantly sandy soil of the vineyards imparts an immediate fresh and lively impression, indicating an approachable and delicious Nebbiolo from an esteemed producer. This is the entry-level red from Brovia. Notes of violet, rubber, cherry, cranberry, blueberry, mint, black truffle, and tar. It has all the hints of what makes a great Nebbiolo and is highly drinkable for a young wine. The tannins are fine-grained but the end palate is still pleasant. The acidity is high which makes the finish seems a bit lean. This is a feisty fling of a wine, which makes us crave an equally raw and wild dish from Piedmont called Carne Cruda (raw beef).

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“I eagerly await this wine’s [Brovia Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore] release every year—it’s a sentimental favorite and truly one of the best values in Piedmont.”

David Lynch from SommSelect

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8.  La Ca’ Nova, Barbaresco, Vigna Bric Mentina Montefico, 2011 – Piedmont, Italy    [Vinous: 94 Points]

From the Montefico vineyard in the village of Barbaresco. Aged in Slavonian oak for 22 months.

The nose is dominated by rose characteristic, and a good amount of smoke, tar, red berries, blueberry, and chalky notes. Big and ripe on the palate with powerful tannins that support the incredibly precise, trigonal structure. Flavors lean toward dried berries and savory notes in the mouth. A wine that will go great with a Cherasco snail dish.

Thoughts on Flight 4, Nebbiolo From Langhe:

This is a divisive set of wines. The entire table splits equally between the two wines when asked which one they prefer. The Nebbiolo d’Alba is highly drinkable and shows more finesse than the Barbaresco, which is drinking well for its young age with alluring ripe and dense flavors. This flight reveals a lot about the individual preferences when it comes to red wine.

Flight 5: Nebbiolo From Lesser-Known Areas

9.  Le Piane, Boca 2008 – Piedmont, Italy    [Vinous: 96 points]

A blend of 85% Nebbiolo and 15 %Vespolina grapes from the old vines of Le Piane. Fermentation happens with natural yeast in open steel tanks and large wood casks. Three years of aging in 2,000- to 3,000- liters Slavonian wood casks.

Stand up and cheer, that’s literally what’s happening as we taste this wine. A beauty packed with layers of nuances, gently unveiling itself as you wait and pursue it over time. The nose appears to be from a warm year and already packed with tertiary notes: stone fruit, black fruit, hazelnut, mushroom, tar, rose, forest floor. Yet in the mouth, it defies the initial impression with its fresher-than-actual-age flavors of chocolate, violet, juicy cherry, cranberry, and white pepper. A wine of great focus, power, playfulness, and elegance. This is a wine that has the potential to move a camp of non-Nebbiolo believers.

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“This [Boca] was one of the most fascinating wines at the tasting. Long skin contact and three-year aging in Slavonian oak makes this Nebbiolo really stand out from the crowd. Cloves and sweet spices on the nose. Darker and riper fruits on the palate that feels so silky, but powerful and rich.”

Martina Milicevic from Pretawine

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10.  Nervi, Gattinara 2006 – Piedmont, Italy    [Wine Spectator: 93 points]

Made with 100% Nebbiolo grapes (or Spanna as it is called in this part of Piedmont) grown on a combination of clay and volcanic gravel at an elevation of 280 to 400 meters above sea level. Fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled temperature. Aged for five years in oak barrels, with further aging in cement vats and in the bottles for at least a year.

Another beauty from the oldest estate in Gattinara. At 10 years old, it’s still a teenager of a Nebbiolo. A captivating bouquet of forest floor, spicy salami, tomato leaf, cranberry, cherry, rubber, and smoke. On the palate, it opens to more earthy notes with a nice balance of fresh and fruity primary flavors. Silky texture with fine-grained tannins and expressing a lot of vitality on the palate. An exquisite wine that deserves to be paired with an equally exquisite dish of Piedmont: Tajarin al ragù.

Thoughts on Flight 5, Nebbiolo From Lesser-Known Areas:

These are the headliners of the evening. This is the first time that everyone’s tasting a Boca and no one’s disappointed. The Gattinara is the oldest wine of the session and is aging beautifully, showing many more peak years ahead. The table is, again, split half-and-half when it comes to the “winner of the round”, but there’s no doubt that these two are the highlights of the evening—just as we’ve planned.

After having a sip of the Boca, Croatian wine critic Saša Špiranec enjoys the wine so much that he feels compelled to stand up and raise a toast to this charm in a glass. A completely justified response; the Boca is indeed special.

Flight 6: The Finale, Expect the Unexpected

• Pecchenino, Dogliani, San Luigi 2015 – Piedmont, Italy    [Wine Spectator: 90 points]

Note: There’s a mistake made here; this wine should have been served earlier in the tasting. 100% Dolcetto grapes harvested from Dogliani in Piedmont, one of the best sites for the Dolcetto variety.

Bouquet of sour cherry, rhubarb, licorice, pumpkin spice, and earth. Light body with tangy and refreshing delivery on the palate. A  pleasant food wine that many people would like.

• Bibich, Bas de Bas Crno 2013 – Dalmatia, Croatia 

Available at wineandmore.com

Note: This wine is served blind. Bas de Bas is one of the cult wines coming out of Croatia.  A blend of predominantly Syrah and a touch of Merlot. Aged for 24 months in French oak barrels.

Full-bodied, rich, and dense. This wine sashays into the evening with a thunderstorm: it is swanky and stern simultaneously. Notes of wild game, black plum, blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, and cedar. Luscious texture with a long finish.

• Boškinac, Cuvée 2013 – Kvarner, Croatia 

Available at wineandmore.com

This cuvée is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bouquet of red cherry, red plum, cranberry, pencil lead, earth, and oak flavors. It is rich and slightly spicy on the palate. This wine has an exceptionally long finish. Great structure and flavor intensity that reveal its high aging potential; but as of right now it’s still a tad young to be consumed—the flavors need a bit more time to melt together, but all the elements are here for this to be great.

Thoughts on Flight 6, The Finale:

Matt’s idea is to serve the Dolcetto as a refreshment, before hitting the big-bodied Bas de Bas in a blind tasting. Charine thinks it’s better to offer a typically cheerful Dolcetto as the first wine of the evening. After tasting the Dolcetto, the group agrees with Charine. It’s challenging to reassess a light-bodied, fruity wine after the palates have gone through a myriad of ages and complex flavor profiles.

When the Bas de Bas is served, everyone’s intrigued by the luxurious bouquet; it is one of Croatia’s most expensive wines. Many people can tell from the flavors that it’s a wine from Mediterranean climate.

The Boškinac Cuvée 2013 is a bonus wine that rounds up the night with its deliciousness and a hint that the best is yet to come—for the wine itself and for all of us.

Conclusion

Our crew of 10 wine lovers and wine writers.

At the end of the night, Darko Vozab (the #2 Vivino user in Croatia) says it best, “Too much good wine.”

This entire flight is fantastic; every single wine displays its own set merits.  All the Nebbiolos are charmers. The Pinot Noir is the biggest surprise. The Etna Rosso and Aglianico are the most controversial.

All of the Italian wines are great, but what about the Croatian wines?

Both producers Boškinac and Bibich are highly regarded in Croatia, and their wines are right there with the best of the flight, even next to the big Bs of Italy. So živjeli to that, and saluti to more cross-cultural sharings through wine!

Here’s a video review of the wines:

Thanks to Sherry’s Wine & Bites in Zagreb, Croatia for providing a venue for us to taste all of these wines.

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    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

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The Original Zinfandel from Croatia

The Boškinac Cuvée 2012, Boškinac Cuvée 2013, and Bibich Bas de Bas Crno 2013 were sponsored by the proprietors. (Thank you, Boris Šuljić and Alen Bibic!) However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post How Do Top Croatian Wines Fare Against Italian Wines? appeared first on Wine Travel.

Following Serbia’s wine route has led us to many surprises. Many of the Serbian wines are excellent and show tremendous potential to lift the country onto the world stage of wine. Among those, one Serbian wine region stands out with enviable soil, location, and climate for making world-class wines. In the far east of Serbia, where the hills gently slope towards the Danube river, lies the Rejon Negotinksa Krajina, or more easily referred to as the Negotin region among English speakers.

The road infrastructure in Serbia is limited, but the signs for the wine cellars are always strategically placed. With the extra aid of GPS, we have no problem getting to the wineries.

The Negotin Region

This region is right by the borders of Serbia, Bulgaria, and Romania. From the vineyards, the great plains of Romania across the Danube River fill the midline of our sight. Negotin is less than 300 kilometers from Belgrade but feels worlds apart. The Southern Carpathian Mountain range creates a geographic barrier between Negotin and Belgrade, perhaps a communication barrier too as it appears no memos on progressions of any sort ever reached Negotin in the past decade or so, as if all the messages have been engulfed by this mountain range.

The vineyards are on slopes and experience true continental climate. The Danube river helps moderate temperature in the winter and the region experiences close to 300 days of sunshine annually. Some regional wine professionals believe that this is the best place to cultivate Serbian Bordeaux blends .

We think Negotin has the potential to be the ‘Grand Cru’ site for Serbian wines!

Negotin is located in eastern Serbia, close to the borders of Romania and Bulgaria.

Our journey to the Negotin region is smooth and scenic. Outside of the main highway that runs down the center of Serbia, two-lane roads snake through the countryside. We experience no traffic aside from the occasional trucks. Our Chevrolet Aveo makes passing on the steep gradients difficult but not worrisome. 
 

Negotinske Pivnice: The Forgotten Villages

The drive to the Negotinske Pivnice is a slightly different story. The small villages of Rajac, Smedovac, and Rogljevo are hidden deep in the region. The villages are less than 20 kilometers from the regional capital, Negotin. Despite the short distance, it’s taking us more than an hour to drive from Negotin to the other two villages as most of the road is single track and unpaved.

The road follows an old rail line that looks completely incapable of existence yet is still in use. Slow, single-car passenger trains traverse the route dropping off a handful of passengers at each tired woodshed that serves as the station. 

One of the ‘train stations’ in the village of Rajac.

The villages look almost abandoned. According to official data, each of them has 180 registered inhabitants. But all we are seeing so far are a handful—literally countable by two hands of fingers—of people including an elderly couple who look over 80 years old, riding their tractor across a field. Many of the houses look like they’ve been left empty for a long time.

The abandoned old stone cellars reveal a village set back in time.

Despite how bleak the area looks, our research indicates that we are on the right track. This is exactly where the golden age of winemaking goes back to the 3rd century AD, when Negotin and the rest of Serbia belonged to the Roman empire. Even in the late 19th century, wines from here were drunk and known in Bordeaux. In the more recent history, the Yugoslavia’s socialist era forced all the grape growers to send their harvest to large, state-run co-operatives where quantity, not quality, was the focus. After the collapse of Yugoslavia, many people simply left the villages.

If great wine was once made here, it is logical to believe that it can be made again.

One of the very few cellars that are still in use.

Each of the three villages contains hundreds of old “pivnice”, the Serbian word for “wine cellar”. Many of them are abandoned, but we managed to find a few active places. One of the cellars is run by a young man who lives in Belgrade but returns to make wine at the homeland of his ancestors during the winemaking season.

This entire area of Negotinske Pivnice is currently in the application stage for the UNESCO Heritage Sites list. The massive scale of these cellars shows the importance of viticulture in this area in the past. It looks like every single household here used to make wine. According to some literature, there used to be over 2,000 hectares of vines and around 300 active wineries, distilleries, and cellars here. Today, there are around 20 hectares of vineyards, less than 200 structures, and a speculated number between 20 to 60 cellars and wineries left.

In our video below, you can see how beautiful and haunting the cellars are.

We wonder if these three villages were located in a more heavily trodden country, would it be a big-time tourist attraction by now. Our hope is that this area regains some of its former glory so these cellars will not be lost forever. And there is indeed a faint glimpse of hope for the villages.
 

New Wines on the Block

There are two fairly young wineries looking to restore confidence and glory to the area. One of them is Vinarija Raj, owned by a couple, Beka and Mick O’Connor. Mick is British and his wife, Beka, is from Serbia. Their winery is next to the train station of Rajac. Vinarija Raj is located in a crumbling building, which is in the process of getting remodeled and fitted with top-notch winemaking equipment.

The label design of Vinarija Raj.

The most exciting discovery for us is the Raj Crna Tamjanika 2015. The wine is made from Crni (black) Tamjanika, an indigenous variety hardly used for vinification today; so drinking this wine for the first time is a diary-worthy moment for us. The wine has flavors of forest floor, cedar, and blackberry. The acidity is high. The finish is long, slightly bitter, and gently tannic. It reminds us of a well-made Dolcetto from Piedmont, Italy.

While Raj is trying to restore glory to Rajac, a French couple is looking to revive the nearby village of Rogljevo. Cyrille Bongiraud and Estelle Germain relocated from Burgundy to Rogljevo in 2007 and established Francuska Vinarija, a name that aptly translates to “French Winery”. As a renowned soil specialist, Cyrille was drawn by the limestone soils of this area when he first visited in 2003. Now, Francuska Vinarija works with local grape growers in Rogljevo on seven hectares of small-plot vineyards.

An upcoming documentary entitled The Promise, which chronicles their journey, will be released soon. You can watch the trailer below. 

Did You Say Serbian Grand Cru?

There is one producer in this region who is already capturing the wonderful terroir successfully. Nikola Mladenovic was working as an engineer in Belgrade before he decided to go back to his roots in Negotin to start something new.

The result is the Matalj Winery. Nikola teams up with a young, superstar Serbian winemaker Mladen Dragojlovic for the work at Matalj. With a portfolio of single-vineyard wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Crni Tamjanika, Matalj is already creating quite a stir in Southeast Europe and at regional wine competitions.

The ladies working in the vineyard of Matalj.

The Matalj wines are in such high demand that when we visited Nikola, he did not have a single bottled wine left in his winery. However, our visit was anything but futile; we got the chance to sample many wines from the tanks and barrels, including his excellent dessert wine made from Crni Tamjanika. Nikola is a vibrant and open-hearted guy. The entire afternoon in the Matalj cellar and vineyard went by quickly in his good company. After many hours of getting to know the story and wines of Matalj, we had dinner at a nearby restaurant where Nikola had to buy back his wines for us to sample. Unfortunately, the crown jewel was nowhere to be found; it seemed the entire town had run out of his best-known wine.

The most sought-after wine in Serbia is the Matalj Kremen Kamen. It is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and a tiny touch of Merlot; the grapes are sourced from Nikola’s Kremen vineyard. The production is less than 5,000 bottles in a good year. This wine is so popular that it is virtually out of stock everywhere in Serbia.

As serendipity always rewards the persistent heart: our friend managed to help us track down a bottle in Belgrade. The bottle we got was the Matalj Kremen Kamen 2011. Here’s our tasting note:

The epitome of power and grace. As it breathes, the aroma constantly changes around the predominant characteristics of black fruit, plum, violet, tobacco, leather, and a touch of vanilla. Perfectly ripe fruit notes on the palate—yet not heady or full-bodied—held together by a persistent mineral backbone. The end palate is ridiculously long and the tannins are round and powerful. They slide down your esophagus into your stomach and continue to flutter, as if to remind you that they are still there. This is a stellar wine that can compete anywhere in the world.

We are not alone in our sentiment. Our friend Daniel Curovic is of Croat descent and is importing Croatian wine to Sweden. When we met, he told us, “I tasted the Kremen Kamen and it might be the finest wine coming out of the entire Balkan area.” We’ve spoken with several other wine critics and writers who also expressed similar thoughts about this wine.

Now What?

While wineries are springing up like mushrooms after the rain in the rest of Serbia, the growth in Negotin has been sedated. Perhaps the area is too isolated? Perhaps nobody wants to live in the area? Whatever the reasons may be, we look forward to keeping our eyes on this exciting corner of the wine world. With the charming remnants of a glorious winemaking past and the current few but top-notch wines being made in Negotin, the future may be brighter than one might expect.

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