The villages of Collioure and Banyuls Sur Mer are two picturesque villages on the coast of southern France. They sit on the border with Spain. Both villages sit in natural coves and are backed by steep, terraced vineyards.

The vineyards here are reputable some of the lowest yielding in Europe. Yields in Collioure during the 2016 harvest were 29.5 hectoliters/hectare (according to Roussillon CIVR). Vines on these terraces are bush trained, meaning that all vineyard work in manual. I can’t imagine pruning and harvesting these vines in the hot Mediterranean sun, just look at how extreme these vineyards are below.

These hills give birth to grapes that can be made into Collioure (Blanc, Rosé, Rouge) or Banyuls Vin doux naturel (fortified sweet wine). The AOC laws state that these wines must be blends (often at dizzying proportions). Here are the grapes that are permitted.

The vintage makes a difference on what the winemakers will make. The winemaker from Domaine Madeloc told me that during the hot vintage of 2015, “a few of us got together and decided that we needed to make more Banyuls instead of dry wines because of the grape quality.”

Banyuls VDN wines are naturally sweet, fortified wines that opened my eyes. I am now a huge fan of these wines (this coming from the only wine geek who doesn’t fancy Port). These wines are complex and fascinating with well-integrated alcohol (which is what bothers me about Port). They are rich and pair beautifully with chocolate.

There are a number of grapes allowed in the blend but most producers use Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, and Grenache Gris. Strong brandy is added when the wines reach around 6% ABV, stopping the fermentation process and leaving the residual sugar behind. These wines can be red or white and made as a vintage wine, a non-vintage (Hors d’Age), and oxidative in style (Rancio).

During my visit to the region, these wines stood out the most.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

Collioure Blanc

• Domaine Madeloc (Pierre Gaillard), Cuvée Tremadoc Collioure Blanc 2016

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The Domaine Madeloc (Pierre Gaillard), Cuvée Tremadoc Collioure Blanc 2016 is a fun blend of Grenache Gris, Rolle (Vermentino), and Roussanne. It’s a barrel fermented wine with stellar wood integration. Tangy, mineral, and shiny with white stone fruit flavors and a touch of guava are followed by a long finish.   4.3/5

• Domaine Augustin, Adéodat Collioure Blanc 2016

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The Domaine Augustin Adéodat Collioure Blanc is made with Grenache Gris aged for a short time in barriques. Full of lime and green apple flavors with a touch of yogurt. It has bite in the mid palate and a long finish.   4.2/5

• M. Chapoutier, Domaine del Bila Haut Chrysopée Collioure Blanc 2016

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The Chapoutier, Domaine del Bila Haut Chrysopée is a cuvée of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc aged on the lees in large oak casks. The flavors from the lees dominate this big-bodied wine. Other flavors include lime, green mango, and yogurt. It has palate presence, being huge in the mouth with a medium finish.   4.1/5

• Cave De L’Abbérous, Cornet & Cie Collioure Blanc 2016

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This wine is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Vermentino, Roussanne, and Marsanne left on the lees. The Cave De L’Abbérous, Cornet & Cie is ripe and highly phenolic on the palate. It has lime, green apple, yogurt, and tangy flavors. It’s also tannic for a white that has saw no barrel aging.   4.1/5

• Mas Siempre, Pujol Collioure Blanc 2016

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This is a crazy white wine made with Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. The Mas Siempre Pujol smells like it is tired and oxidized, yet it is bright and vibrant on the palate. The flavors include bright green apple, guava, stone fruit, and mineral flavors. 4.0/5

• Clos Saint Sébastien, Inspiration Minérale Collioure Blanc 2016

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While nearly every offering I tasted from Clos Saint Sébastien was impressive, this stood out the most. The Inspiration Minérale is aged one year in large oak casks. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. The wine is oaky but well integrated. Full of ripe white peach, citrus, green apple, and mineral flavors with a complex and long finish.   4.3/5

Banyuls

Cave L’Étoile, Banyuls Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée 1995

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What a wine! The Cave L’Étoile, Banyuls Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée 1995 was aged for ten years in oak. It’s full of raspberry, coffee, toffee, pepper, and leather flavors. It has a savory mouthfeel, almost like a great, mature dry red wine. Long finish and beautiful integration of alcohol. It’s a blend of Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, and Carignan.   4.7/5

Domaine Madeloc (Pierre Gaillard), Banyuls Solera NV

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The Domaine Madeloc Banyuls Solera was made using the Solera methode (think Sherry). The oldest wine in this blend is from 1921! It’s a blend of Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc. Full of chocolate, caramel, lemon, and fig flavors. Great acidity cleans off the palate, never making the wine feel too sappy. Comes in at 18.5% ABV but the alcohol integration is fantastic.   4.4/5

Domaine Pietri Geraud, Banyuls Blanc 2015

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This is made from 100% Grenache Blanc. The Domaine Pietri Geraud Banyuls Blanc is such a fun sweet wine. It smells like a dry wine but the palate and finish take you off guard. Aged one year in barriques. Flavors of flint, lime, mango, white peach, and pineapple dominate. It’s a medium bodied wine with a fiery acidity that wipes the palate clean.   4.3/5

Domaine Tambour, Banyuls Hors d’ Age

This is a non-vintage wine made from 100% Grenache Noir. The Domaine Tambour Banyuls Hors d’ Age was aged for 40 months in oak before release. Don’t let the label fool you, this is serious juice. Full of red fruit, coffee, caramel, and toffee flavors. There is a tart berry pie-like acidity on the finish.   4.1/5

Domaine Vial-Magneres, ‘Al Trago’ Banyuls Rancio 1990

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Made from 100% Grenache Noir, the Domaine Vial-Magneres Banyuls Rancio 1990 was aged for over 20 years before being bottled. The wine was constantly in contact with air during this time, hence the Rancio designation. It’s got a lot of sherry-like notes including almond, chocolate, baked prune, fig, and lime notes. The age has added layers of complexity like leather and mushroom. Rich and chewy, it begs for dark chocolate.   4.2/5

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The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers

The post Crazy About Collioure & Banyuls appeared first on Wine Travel.

In October of 2017, we were invited to the Concorso Enologico Nazionale Vermentino (Vermentino Wine Competition) in Olbia, Sardinia. It was the first Vermentino Wine Competition held in Sardinia, and the judging panel included people from Denmark, England, France, Poland, USA, and—of course—Italy.

Sardinia had been on our to-visit list since the beginning of our round-the-world trip in May 2015. So when the organizer, Mario Bonamici, invited us to judge at the event, we jumped at the opportunity. The official program spanned three days: dinner on the first evening, wine competition on the second day, and vineyard visits and gala dinner on the third day.

First night in Cagliari/Sardinia and we headed straight to a natural wine bar! This place has an awesome selection of local cheeses too.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 29, 2017 at 11:48am PDT

The first day when we arrived in Cagliari, we visited a wine bar and shop called Sabores / Sapori Di Sardegna (refer to 1:48 in the video below)—best known for its excellent selections of minimal-intervention wines, artisanal salumi, and cheeses from Sardinian producers. The next day, before making our way to the competition’s venue, we had lunch at Stella Marina di Montecristo (refer to 1:05 in the video below), which offered only one menu: a five-course seafood lunch with wine, for €30. The highlight of the meal was the Fregola con I Frutti di Mare, a type of pasta that is made of semolina and served in a seafood-tomato broth.

Concorso Enologico Nazionale Vermentino

The official program and competition commenced on the third day of our trip, at the cooperative Cantina del Vermentino in the village of Monti. The judging panel was split into three groups. Around 150 Vermentino wines were assessed by the 15-people panel. Many of the wines we tasted in the competition were of good quality; a handful were outstanding. But as it is with all wine competitions, there remain other excellent wines that did not participate.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 29, 2017 at 11:27am PDT

After several hours of tasting and judging, Pro Loco di Monti prepared a feast for the attendees. The meal included lamb cooked under the bell and suckling pig cooked on a spit. Those dishes required hours of slow cooking, and we were impressed that they were made on the spot and served warm. Many of the judges and media members raved about the high-quality food. Besides the quality, we were amazed by the showmanship and how an inconspicuous “lunch break” at a wine competition turned out to be a valuable lesson in local gastronomy. In fact, throughout the three-day program, we noticed the obvious effort put into organizing every meal, which often consisted of wholesome, authentic Sardinian food.

The Vineyards of Vermentino di Gallura DOCG

The day after the Concorso Enologico Nazionale Vermentino, the judges and media team went on a trip to the vineyards of Vermentino di Gallura, the only DOCG in Sardinia. Our first stop was the Museo del Vino located on top of the Berchidda hilltown. Our favorite feature of the museum was the large posters depicting local grape varieties and denominations of Sardinia. The museum also had a well-stocked tasting room featuring producers from all over the island.

Quite a view from the wine museum.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 28, 2017 at 7:16am PDT

After the museum, we visited the vineyards of three producers: Unmaredivino, San Consorzio San Michele, and Tenute Aini. All three producers talked about how it hadn’t rained since January. The Sardinian laws allow emergency irrigation, which many producers had to utilize in 2017.

The afternoon was everything we pictured about Sardinia—full of laughter, wine, ricotta, and other gastronomic delights. We had our favorite dish of the whole trip during this lunch: a deep-fried Ravioli stuffed with meat and tomato sauce. Take a look at the photo below by Fabien Lainé.

Thoughts on Vermentino

Overall, we walked away with a good impression of Vermentino and a better understanding of the grape. Here are our initial thoughts:

1. Vermentino can benefit a lot from sur lie aging, which offers size, texture, and complexity. Without extended lees contact and bâtonnage, the wine can be refreshing and pleasant but often one-dimensional.
2. Judicious use of oak seems like a rather elusive thing among the examples that we tried. We didn’t get to taste many oaked Vermentinos, and based on our small sample size, oak tends to overpower the innate clarity and citrus bite of the grape.
3. Vermentino can taste drastically better after short-term aging in the bottle. We tasted a few examples from the 2013 and 2014 vintages; all the wines gained more depth and focus in flavors.
4. There are unmistakenly distinct differences in the wines depending on where the Vermentino grapes are grown.

While we found many enjoyable Vermentinos and a few good ones, there are none that we would consider “transcendent”. Hopefully, we will make it back to Sardinia in the near future and taste more examples. Two wines that we’ll be hunting down during our next trip are the Capichera’s Vermentino di Gallura Vign’Angena and Stefano Legnani’s “Loup Garou” Vermentino.

Overall, the 2017 Concorso Enologico Nazionale Vermentino was a success, and we look forward to being a part of the team again in the future.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

Here are some of our favorite Vermentino examples. You can scroll through the Instagram feed below to see the wine labels.

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• Tenute Casteani, Serìn, Vermentino, 2016 – Maremma Toscana DOC

The Tenute Casteani’s “Serìn” Vermentino has an intensely saline aroma. It’s light on the palate with flavors of white peach and lime and a hint of fresh herbs. A wine that calls for oysters and sunshine. This wine received a bronze medal in the competition.

• Cantina Unmaredivino, Bianco Smeraldo, 2015 – Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG

Find or Buy at Wine-Searcher.

The Cantina Unmaredivino’s “Bianco Smeraldo” is a wine that will please many palates. Round in the mouth with the body built up by lees contact and a touch of residual sugar (the wine is still dry). Tropical fruit flavors complicated by lime and white flower. It’s easy to drink and finishes with good clarity, breadth, and bitter-nut persistence. This wine received a gold medal in the competition.

• Cantina Olianas, Olianas, Vermentino, 2016 – Vermentino di Sardegna DOC

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Certified-bio Cantina Olianas crafted the “Olianas” Vermentino in a mix of steel tank, amphora, and barrel. Bright with focused citrus fruit, white peach, apple, yogurt, and fresh green herbs. It’s round on the palate, with ripe but not excessively fruity flavors. The wine closes tight with a touch of salinity on the finish. This wine received a bronze medal in the competition.

Watch: Exotic Wine Travel Tasting Olianas Vermentino 2016

• Cantina Li Duni, Renabianca, 2016 – Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG

Not your typical Sardinian Vermentino, the fruit for this wine comes from ungrafted vines grown in sand dunes near the sea. It has an insane amount of salinity, which is brightened by notes of lime, white grapefruit, and Mediterranean herbs. This wine received a bronze medal in the competition.

• Cantine Sardus Pater, Lugore,  2016 – Vermentino di Sardegna DOC

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The Sardus Pater expresses harmonized flavors of lime, nectarine, and white flower. On the palate, it’s refined and round, making the mouthfeel rather serious. The finish is powered by crisp acidity and a flinty quality. This wine received a bronze medal in the competition.

• Consorzio San Michele Superbia 2015 – Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG

Find or Buy at Wine-Searcher.

Check out our article on this wine in this edition of “As Drunk By Exotic Wine Travel.”

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Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post The Vermentino Wine Competition in Sardinia appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Consorzio San Michele, Superbia Vermentino Gallura Superiore 2015

“I just knew that guy would make great wine,” said author and blogger Ule Udsen.

Ule and I joined several other writers who made a stop at Corsorzio San Michele (CSM). The visit was part of a press trip attached to the 1st Vermentino Wine Competition in Olba, Sardinia. The vineyards of CSM were our second stop in Gallura.

When the bus pulled into the vineyards of CSM, we were met by a large Sardinian man in dirty jeans and a checkered, flannel shirt. I noticed his swollen and dirty fingers when he greeted me. Embracing his hands reminded me of my father’s. From that point onward, I too had a hunch that his wines might be good.

Consorzio San Michele is a group of three families, producing wine in Gallura, North Sardinia. They produce around 50,000 bottles of wine per year, all Vermentino. The winery is located in Berchidda, Sardinia. The village is within the only DOCG in Sardinia, Vermentino di Gallura on the north end of the Island.

The image of this man stayed burned into my memory. I didn’t even catch his name because he didn’t speak English. On top of that, it was hard for our translators to get so much as a peep from him.  He didn’t talk much about his vineyards or his wine. It didn’t matter, his Vermentino spoke for itself. We tasted it over lunch, after our walk in the vineyards. It’s what got Ule so excited.

Ule wasn’t alone, I too loved the Consorzio San Michele, Superbia Vermentino Gallura Superiore 2015. It’s a wine that doesn’t see oak and is fermented at low temperatures, then kept on the lees with bâtonnage (stirring) for seven months. It’s the top white wine from Consorzio San Michele. CSM also produces an entry-level Vermentino named Simfonia and a mid-range bottling called Invidia.

This is not a simple Vermentino, the contact with the lees give the Superbia Vermentino Gallura Superiore a round mouthfeel. The fruit is bright and the wine has flavors of lime, pineapple, basil, and Mediterranean herbs. The acidity in this wine calls for shellfish. It might not be a long-lived wine, but this will show brilliantly with a few years of bottle aging. Nothing pretentious, it’s just good, honest juice.

If you’re looking for a well-made example of Vermentino in Sardinia, look no further.

4.0/5 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Find or Buy on Wine-Searcher.

*Ule Udsen runs a wine blog and co-authored the Italian encyclopedic book Politikens Bog om Italiensk Vin (In Danish and Norwegian).

The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

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Refreshing like white, complex like red, versatile like sparkling, and fun like rosé: here comes orange wine. While those descriptors are mere generalizations, they do accurately illustrate the various facades of orange wine. Many people believe orange wine is having a moment. Some consider it to be the latest ‘It’ wine. The irony is that this ‘new’ style of wine has a history of more than 8,000 years. It has survived the passage of time, and its sensory merits are time-tested. Yet today orange wines are considered controversial, sparking raw emotions and fervent beliefs among wine drinkers, winemakers, and wine professionals.

Why is that?

The best way to understand these polarized opinions is to first understand how orange wine is made.

What is Orange Wine? No, Actually it’s Amber Wine.

Nothing to do with the citrus fruit, orange wines are made from white wine grapes where the skins are not removed and stay in contact with the juice for anywhere from a few days to months, or even years in some rare cases. This contrasts with conventional white wines, which are made by crushing the grapes and removing the skins before the fermentation process begins. The color of a wine comes less from the flesh and juice than from the skin. As such, the skins of white grapes impart color density to orange wines. Besides color, the skins also provide phenolic compounds that can make the wines more robust and textured.

So orange wines are white wines made in a similar way to red wines. Fans of these wines find their individuality unparalleled and compelling. The naysayers have their reasons too, and one of the biggest critiques is that extended skin contact can conceal the varietal characteristics and the subtle nuances derived from ‘a sense of place’.

While it is more common for people to refer to this style of wine as ‘orange wine’—which can be considered a misnomer and is clearly misleading for many reasons (orange wine can also mean wine made in the Orange wine region of Australia)—we prefer to use the term ‘amber wine’. It is also sometimes called ‘skin contact wine’ and ‘macerated white wine’.

So are we all set here? Let’s talk about amber wine now.

Croatian Amber Wines (Orange Wines)

Today,  amber wine is made in many parts of the world, with Australia, Austria, France, Georgia, Italy, Spain, and the United States being some of the more famous amber wine-producing countries. Also, Croatia’s neighbor, Slovenia, has made a name for itself with its natural wine movement, which includes a diverse and world-class offering of amber wines. Croatia has the potential to shine in this category as well. Amber wines are made in all four wine regions in Croatia: Istria & Kvarner, Dalmatia, Croatian Uplands, and Slavonia & the Danube. Many of these wines are of outstanding quality, while others are quirky with memorable traits.

A statement we often hear in Croatia is, “My grandfather made wine like that.” To many producers, making white wine with long maceration is not a newfangled posturing or market-driven experiment but a logical return to family tradition.

Croatia receives most of its visitors in the summer, so red wines may not always be an attractive option, especially on a sweltering day. Why not give amber wine a shot? Here are 15 excellent Croatian amber wines to look out for.

15 Croatian Amber Wines to Try

• Boškinac OCU 2015 – Istria & Kvarner

Boškinac Hotel-Winery-Restaurant is a culinary hotspot on the island of Pag. Owner and winemaker Boris Šuljić considers this wine an ode to his father, who used to make this style of wine. We love the 2015 vintage of Boškinac OCU and wrote about it in a previous article. Fans of amber wines with sweet oak taste will appreciate this effort.

 

Weeeee they are pouring wine-by-the-glass from a magnum bottle! Boskinač Ocu 2015 is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Debit, and Gegić. The last two are Croatian varieties. 21 days of maceration. 6 months in oak before bottling. The result is an amber wine with medium frame, refreshing acidity, and white tea-like astringency. Aromas of summer flower, ginger, caramel, and marshmallow. Orange pith and citrus flavors on the palate. I don’t come across many amber wines with pronounced oak flavors, and definitely welcome the toasty sweetness that the oak lends to this wine.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on May 31, 2017 at 2:37pm PDT

• Clai Sv. Jakov 2013 – Istria & Kvarner

Giorgio Clai is often referred to as the ‘Godfather of Istria’ and the ‘Godfather of Organic Winemaking’. He is also a household name in the ‘natural wine’ circuit. A trip to Istria is incomplete without trying Clai wines. The grapes are farmed with biodynamic principles and undergo spontaneous fermentation.

Clai Sv. Jakov is a serious interpretation of Malvazija, with Spring aromas of dandelion and lemongrass, dried fruit, and a hint of nut. The citrusy acidity makes the wine extremely approachable. This wine would appeal to people who love structured amber wine packed with intricate nuances. 2013 is the latest vintage on the market, and the older vintages are worth seeking out. As the wines age, they gain more layers of nuttiness and meadow-like notes. The skin contact lends the Malvazija flavor intensity, texture, weight, and a gentle tannic tug. You can read more about our thoughts in the Instagram post below.

Clai also makes a more easy-drinking, macerated white blend called Ottocento Bijeli.

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2011 Clai Sv. Jakov made of Istrian Malvasia. Color of a Grade A medium-amber maple syrup. Characteristics of wet sand, dried flower, macadamia oil, orange pith, and pomelo. Tannins are redolent of green tea. Refreshing acidity, extremely spicy finish. The 2009 sibling is performing better than 2011 at the moment, but 2011 appears to have better stuffing to go the distance. To us, Clai (Istria, Croatia) is one of the top three producers of amber wine in the world–well, at least in the limited world that we’ve created after tasting a significant number of amber wines. Employing organic farming methods, native yeast, and other minimal-intervention approaches, Clai wines always turn up with vitality and whole integrity.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 30, 2017 at 3:21pm PDT

• Dobravac Simfonija 2009 – Istria & Kvarner

The Dobravac Villa consists of a winery, hotel, and restaurant in the town of Rovinj, Istria. The winery produces several exciting wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Teran, and Malvazija.

The Dobravac Simfonija is a skin contact wine made from a blend of 70% Malvazija and 30% Chardonnay. A full-bodied amber wine with flavors of apricot, orange peel, and yellow flower. The Dobravac Simfonija boasts a rich texture with a touch of tannins and a caramel-tinted finish. There is a slightly rustic quality to this wine that hardcore amber wine geeks will adore.

• Kabola Malvasia Amphora 2009 – Istria & Kvarner

An organic wine producer, Kabola has made waves with its Muškat Momjanski dessert wines and amphora wines. The Kabola Malvasia Amphora is made from Malvazija grapes, macerated for seven months in amphorae, then aged in 4,000-liter Slavonian oak barrels. The wine sees further aging in the bottle before it is released on the market. This bottling would appeal to wine lovers who like textured amber wines with a good blance between fresh flavors and oxidative notes.

 Search or buy on wineandmore.com

 

Kabola is an organic wine producer in the Istria wine region of Croatia. Its lineup of sweet wine and amphora wine have made waves in the country. We absolutely adore this macerated Malvazija made in amphora. Despite the 14.8% alcohol, which does throw out some heat on the end palate, this is juicy and easy to drink!

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Aug 31, 2017 at 7:59am PDT

• Piquentum Blanc 2015 – Istria & Kvarner

The Piquentum winery is built into a water cistern and enjoys geothermal control all year round. To ferment his wine, Dimitri Brečević uses fans to blow warmer air from outside into his winery.

Made without added yeast, enzymes, fining agents, or other additives, the Malvazija grapes are macerated for two to three days, then aged in a mix of 70% barriques and 30% stainless steel tanks. The floral aroma makes this wine immediately appealing. A deeper, thoughtful sniff captures notes of chrysanthemum tea, smoked meat, and a hint of white-fleshed fruit. The creamy palate is enlivened by appetite-pleasing acidity. The finish is slightly bitter with a yellow flower tone. Without close observation, it might be hard to tell that this is a skin contact wine. However, the short maceration certainly delivers a discernible savory quality to it while muting the fresh fruit flavor judiciously. This is a great option for people who like lightly macerated white wines.

Piquentum Malvazija Blanc is available at wineandmore.com

• Roxanich Ines u Bijelom 2009 – Istria & Kvarner

Roxanich produces three bottlings of amber wines: Antica, which is made from Malvazija; Milva from Chardonnay, and this: a field blend of Glera, Graševina, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai Friulano, and Vermentino.v

The name “Ines u Bijelom” translates to “Ines in white” (Ines is the name of Mr Rozanić’s wife). Macerated for 70 days, this amber delight exhibits a high-toned, floral bouquet and a buoyant palate marked by flavors of dried leaf, orange blossom, ginger, and white flower. The acidity sings through the palate. All that is great, but the most memorable trait of this wine is perhaps the bittersweet, honeysuckle-like finish.

Roxanich Ines u Bijelom is available at wineandmore.com

• Krauthaker Kuvlakhe Graševina 2011 – Slavonia & The Danube

One of the most revered figures in Croatia’s wine industry, Vlado Krauthaker visited the Georgian wine regions a few years ago and fell in love with its oxidative-style, skin contact wines. The Krauthaker Kuvlakhe series is a manifestation of his love for Georgia’s traditional-style amber wine made in the qvevri.

Krauthaker Kuvlakhe Graševina is made from organically grown grapes. Fermentation happens spontaneously and no sulfur is added at any point. The wine is bottled without fining or filtration. This amber wine received 207 days of skin contact. On the nose, it shows notes that are more typical of red wine, such as red fruit, cedar, leather, coffee, and vanilla.  On the palate, citrus flavors, along with hints of pistachio, sesame, and dried red fruit and dried black fruit emerged. The wine starts out slightly weighted down by the oak influence, but with some rigorous swirling, it transforms into an ethereal beauty.  This wine takes skin contact and the oxidative style to quite the extreme end, and the result cannot be more deliciously umami.

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• Korak Pinot Sivi 2011 – The Croatian Uplands

Velimir Korak has an insistent but not dogmatic approach to winemaking. This attitude penetrates his wines. There’s a distinct style across his portfolio: vibrant and precise fruit flavors, dancing acidity, and a floral undertone.

Pinot Sivi is the Croatian name for Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio. Fermented with native yeast, macerated for one month, then aged for one year in old barriques and another year in large oak casks. The Korak Pinot Sivi 2011 has harmonious flavors of lychee, rose petal, grass, raspberry, and redcurrant. If you love macerated Pinot Grigio from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, you would probably appreciate this fine example too.

• Tomac Amfora 2008, Tomac Amfora Rizling 2011, and Tomac Amfora Pjenušac Brut Nature 2010 – The Croatian Uplands

Tomislav Tomac is a revered producer in Croatia. Perhaps more known for his sparkling wines, his still wines and Amfora line are equally impressive. The Tomac Amfora line consists of wines that are fermented in Georgian qvevri (buried clay vessels) and matured in large oak casks. These wines tend to have a sweet nut undertone and would appeal to wine lovers who seek elegance in their amber wines. You can read more about these wines in our article Tomac Winery: Leading the Charge in Croatia.

Tomac Amfora wines are available at wineandmore.com

• Voštinić Klasnić Škrlet Orange 2015 – The Croatian Uplands

This producer caught our eye during the Vinart Grand Tasting event in Zagreb. Made from the autochthonous grape Škrlet from the Moslavina sub-region, near Zagreb. This spent 20 days on the skins. The result is a  wonderfully structured amber wine that amplifies the varietal characteristics: light weight, a botanical undertone, white-fleshed fruit flavors, and an invigorating acidity. Flavors of dandelion, orange peel, peach, nectarine, and Autumn leaf pile, the wine’s finish is significantly persistent with a featherlight tug from the tannins.  The Voštinić Klasnić Škrlet Orange makes for an easy introduction to the wonderful world of skin contact.

• Bibich Bas de Bas Bijelo 2011 – Dalmatia

Alen Bibić is one of Croatia’s most famous wine producers. He is a champion for the variety Debit, which is indigenous to the area around Skradin. He spent much of his childhood tending the vines of Debit with his grandfather, and this wine is an encapsulation of the wine that his grandfather used to make.

A wine that is close to Alen’s heart, the Bibich Bas de Bas Bijelo is made from 90% Debit and 10% miscellaneous varieties. Fermented in large stone tanks, macerated for three months, then transferred into oak barrels for aging. No sulfur is added at any point. This is a  full-bodied wine with a precise structure and marvelously long finish. The texture and flavor envelop the entire mouth; it’s as if every taste receptor is electrically stimulated. There is an intense dried tropical fruit characteristic, made interesting by a botanical undertone. The oxidative style appears as a pleasant bourbon-like aroma. The finish is tangy with a hint of tangerine. The tannins are grippy but sweet, round, and juicy. This is a juggernaut manifestation of the grape Debit, and is a wine for wine geeks and collectors.

• Sladić Oya Noya 2015 – Dalmatia

Located in Plastovo in Central Dalmatia, Sladić’s family-run cellar is in the same village as Bibich Winery (mentioned above). Ante Sladić and his family work with the indigenous varieties Debit, Lasina, Maraština/Rukatac, and Plavina.

The Sladić Oya Noya is a blend of Maraština/Rukatac and Debit. Maceration lasted for seven days. On the nose, the wine expresses notes of dandelion, game, dried pineapple, and ripe apricot. A full-bodied wine with an end-palate dominated by oxidative flavors. This wine would appeal to people who have some experience with amber wine and are interested in expericing a different expression.

• Duboković Moja M 2010 – Dalmatia

Ivo Duboković is a marketing professor, the vice-president of the Tourism Board of Jelsa, and the winemaker at Duboković winery. The production size is around 25,000 bottles per year. Because of the low supply, high quality, and high demand, Duboković wines have gained a cult-like following and can be hard to procure. As such, a visit to this garage winery is the best way to try its wines. The winery is located on the Hvar island in South Dalmatia. Tasting sessions are held in the cellar, under candlelight, with barrels piled high up in all corners of the room.

This macerated Maraština (Rukatac) flaunts an arresting golden hue and flavors of cherry, citrus, cedar, caramel, and an array of Mediterranean herbs. There’s a lot of power coming from the acidity and minerality. It will be hard to tell if this is a white, rosé or red wine in a blind tasting. A chameleon wine that will surprise nearly every wine lover.

Search or buy Duboković wines at wineandmore.com

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If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Check out our collection of articles in the “amber wine / orange wine” section.

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post 15 Amber Wines (Orange Wines) to Try in Croatia appeared first on Wine Travel.

Check out our wine travel guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country. 

Lompoc, California was the first stop of our weeklong tasting trip in Santa Barbara County. Driving down CA-246 on the way to Lompoc, the views of Sta. Rita Hills were stunning. We arrived at sunset, greeted by the incredible sight of golden hills wrapped around old creek beds, horse ranches, and green vineyards. Driving there was a real treat; the motorways were winding two-lane roads that weaved through open brush land, abandoned oil wells, and endless rows of vines.

The Lompoc Wine Ghetto

Walking through blocks and blocks of warehouses to taste world-class wine? Visiting up to five or six wineries in a day without putting the key in the ignition? Welcome to Lompoc, the ghetto for wine nerds.

Lompoc is a small town in the western part of Santa Barbara County. The town is laid out in a grid pattern and the architecture is quaintly dated. It feels as if the inhabitants are completely unaware of the wine scene that is thriving on their doorstep. Finding local wines at the neighborhood supermarkets is difficult and the best place to purchase wine is at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto.

Lompoc Wine Ghetto is several blocks behind Home Depot where CA-1 and CA-246 meet. There are over 20 tasting rooms in the Wine Ghetto, which was founded by Rick Longoria. In 1998, due to financial reasons, Longoria decided to build his winery into a warehouse located at the present-day Wine Ghetto. Other young winemakers followed suit. And from there, the rows of wineries were developed into today’s four-block industrial park on the southeast side of town.

The drab facade belies the interior and the actual tasting experience. Inside the warehouses, the tasting rooms are packed with energy. Decorations are often kept to a minimum; the environment is fun and inviting with a touch of individualistic personality. As a case in point, the tasting room of Palmina looks and feels like a friendly neighborhood bar. A couple of the wineries, including the big names like Brewer-Clifton and Longoria are no longer in the main warehouse part of the Wine Ghetto but a few blocks west of town.

Take your time to walk from tasting room to tasting room and do ask the locals for recommendations. Don’t be afraid to be spontaneous; we chanced upon a number of excellent wines because of sheer coincidence and recommendation. Most facilities here are lean and production volumes are comparatively low. A lot of the wines are limited and with high critic scores to boot. There’s a good chance you will meet a few winemakers here. This is the best place for visitors to have a firsthand look at winemaking and understand the tapestry of experience and innovation happening in Santa Barbara.

In a well established wine region like Santa Barbara, it’s not often that visitors get to meet winemakers or proprietors. So it was refreshing when we met Ariel, the owner & winemaker at La Vie. We spent a good hour together as he shared with us his winemaking philosophy and his preference for screw cap enclosure. La Vie is the first Californian producer to bottle Pinot Noir in Stelvin Screwcap enclosure. Ariel prefers to age his wine in French oak barrel for an extended period before bottling and when the screwcap comes on, the wine would be ready for consumption without immediate need to bottle age further. His current released vintage is 2010.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Jun 22, 2016 at 9:45am PDT

In the Lompoc Wine Ghetto, the relatively low cost of wine production by California standards lowers the barriers to entry for young, bootstrapping winemakers. The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is right next to Lompoc so it’s no surprise that most producers here source fruit from that area. However, you can still find wines bearing other AVAs in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. There’s a huge range of wines being made here. Whatever your preference may be, Lompoc can deliver on it. Do you like bubbles? Try Flying Goat Cellars. Looking for elegant Chardonnay? Check out Brewer-Clifton. What about great Pinot Noir? You’re in luck; it’s hard to find an insipid Pinot Noir here.

Tasting room of Brewer-Clifton. Photo Credit: Jeremy Ball of Bottle Branding. We’ve written about Brewer-Clifton in a separate article; the direct link is listed at the bottom of this page.

Please note that most of the tasting rooms are open only on weekends and opening hours are usually from 11AM or 12PM to 4PM or 5PM. Some tasting rooms may be closed without prior notice. If you schedule lunch in the middle of the day, that means you will have to move quickly should you decide to visit more than two or three wineries. The Taste of Sta. Rita Hills is an interesting wine bar in the Wine Ghetto. It offers a wide selection of wines by the glass and these wines are mostly from elusive wineries that either don’t have a tasting room or are hard to make an appointment with.

There are a few budget hotels in town but most people would opt for somewhere else. For food, there are many hole-in-the-wall Mexican eateries throughout the town, including our favorite Floriano’s Mexican Food, which is a few blocks away from the Wine Ghetto. La Botte Italian Restaurant and Scratch Kitchen are two options of a more upscale yet still casual place. Lastly, if you are craving an old-fashioned, greasy spoon café that is widely popular among the locals, be sure to check out American Host. We enjoyed having breakfast there. Overall, the Lompoc Wine Trail was our favorite tasting experience in all of Santa Barbara.

Spending a weekend in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto is an experience that every wine lover should have on their to-do list!

5 Wine Producers to Look Out for in Lompoc

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills is one of our favourite finds at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. Owned and run by Antonio, who’s also the proprietor and winemaker at Moretti Wines, this place houses over 20 labels that are available for tasting! Here’s a shot of Antonio offering us a taste of Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir through a @coravin.

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Bonaccorsi (Available at Taste of Sta. Rita Hills)

After setting up the winery in 1999, former sommelier Michael Bonaccorsi soon passed away in 2004. Bonaccorsi is now run by his wife, Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi, who produces excellent Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. This winery delivers some of the best value-for-money single-vineyard wines in the county. Don’t miss the chance to taste the characteristics of different sites—from the vineyard of Melville to Cargasacchi, and Fiddlestix. The Bonaccorsi Pinot Noirs truly impressed us with their harmonious synchronization of being big, fruity, earthy, and elegant all at the same time.

These wines are for you if: You are particular about the structure and length of your wine or if you like your wine to express complexity, focus, and delicacy.

Photo credit: www.flyinggoatcellars.com

Flying Goat Cellars

Norm Yost and Kate Griffith, the proprietors and husband-and-wife team, produce excellent Pinot Noirs but have made a name for themselves with their sparkling wine line called Goat Bubbles. Goat Bubbles are made in traditional méthode champenoise and the lineup includes a Rosé made from Pinot Noir, a Brut made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a Blanc de Blanc (white wine from white grapes) made from Chardonnay, a Blanc de Noir (white wine made from red grapes) made from Pinot Noir, and a Crémant from Pinot Blanc. The tasting room has a casual and an unhurried feel. Perhaps that’s the effect of sparklers on a tasting room.

These wines are for you if: You love sparkling wine.

Search or buy Flying Goat Cellars wine on Wine Searcher.

Photo Credit: Jeremy Ball of Bottle Branding.

Longoria

In 1998, Rick Longoria became the first producer to have his winery built in an industrial building, which is now affectionately called the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. In 2014, he moved the winery out of the Wine Ghetto and onto the site of Lompoc’s historic JM Club, with the Longoria Winery Tasting Room located in the former clubhouse. Longoria has an extensive portfolio of wines ranging from those made of Chardonnay, to Pinot Noir, Rhône varieties, Spanish varieties, and Bordeaux varieties. Do not miss the chance of tasting the incredibly structured Pinot Noir made with grapes from the estate’s Fe Ciega vineyard. Longoria also produces an Albariño but was sold out when we visited, much to our dismay. There is a chance that you’ll meet Rick Longoria or his wife, Diana Longoria, at the tasting room.

These wines are for you if: You enjoy elegance and subtlety in your wine.

Search or buy Longoria wine on Wine Searcher.

Moretti (Available at Taste of Sta. Rita Hills)

Antonio and Jeni Moretti are the proprietors of Moretti winery and a wine shop called Taste of Sta. Rita Hills, which doubles up as a tasting room for the winery. They produce a handful of wines including varietal whites made from Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, and Chardonnay, and varietal reds made from Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. They also make a Prosecco and a white blend of Arneis, Cortese, and Tocai Friulano. The production is minuscule and sometimes can be as little as 400 cases per year. The biggest highlight for us is their peppery Syrah, which delivers excellent value for money. A visit to their wine shop is a real treat as Antonio and Jeni are passionate about sharing their wine knowledge with the visitors. Also, the shop is essentially a tasting room for the elusive wines of Sta. Rita Hills. The wines of Demetria, Sea Smoke, and Storm are all available by the glass. We recommend that you make this place one of your first stops in order to receive a personal orientation to the wines of Santa Barbara County.

These wines are for you if: You prefer Old World-style, food-friendly wine with earthy nuances.

Palmina and La Voix

Owned by Steve Clifton, one of the original founders of Brewer-Clifton, Palmina focuses on Italian varieties while La Voix includes wines made from French varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. This is one of the larger tasting rooms in the Wine Ghetto. It has an upbeat, fun atmosphere that makes you want to spend a couple of hours here and hang out with the staff or your friends. If you want a taste of Italy, Palmina has it all for you—from Cortese, to Barbera, Malvasia, Sangiovese, Super Tuscan-style wines, and a show-stopping Nebbiolo. For the La Voix line, the bigger-bodied Pinot Noirs stand out the most to us, with a good balance of fruitiness, acidity, and tannin. Both labels use predominantly native yeast and neutral oak barrels. This winery is well-regarded in the wine community and we highly recommend a visit.

These wines are for you if: You enjoy food-friendly wine with bright acidity or bigger-bodied Pinot Noir that expresses the purity of fruit and a touch of earthiness.

Search or buy Palmina wine on Wine Searcher.
Search or buy La Voix wine on Wine Searcher.

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Planning a trip to Santa Barbara?
Want to learn more about Santa Barbara wines?

Our visitor-friendly guide to the wines and tasting rooms of Santa Barbara is available now!
Check out Sipping Santa Barbara: Recommended Wines and Producers for more information.

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You May Also Enjoy

• Santa Barbara Wine Country: Appellations And Region’s Layout
• A Vinous Dream: Wine Tasting in Los Olivos
• Sipping Buellton: Wines and Other Gastronomic Delights
• Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail: Highlights and Tips
• 10 Wines to Try in Santa Barbara County
• Brewer-Clifton: Combining Expertise, Gravitas, and Nature

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Slumming It at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto appeared first on Wine Travel.