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In the Spring of 2019, Charine and I were invited to the 8th Annual ‘Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival’ in Sofia, Bulgaria. The contest is open to wineries from all countries located in or around the Balkan Peninsula. In addition to the contest, this year featured a three-day, open-air festival where around 100 wine cellars poured over 1,000 wines.

Although we weren’t on the judging panel this year, we did participate in ] masterclasses, dinners, and the open-air festival. We cherished the opportunity to reconnect with the latest vintages from producers in countries like Serbia, Greece, and Turkey. It was also a great opportunity to get our first, in-depth taste of what’s happening in Bulgarian wine.

Bulgarian Wines: Our Impressions

We have a lot of experience with the wines of Eastern Europe. The countries that are our blind spots are Ukraine, Russia, and Bulgaria. This festival and competition was a fine opportunity for us to discover the wines of the latter. During the week, we tasted the medal-winning wines from the competition and examples from producers pouring at the festival. Here are a few quick thoughts:

The Good

• Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (both varietal and blends) showed correct flavors and high amounts of complexity
• There are several local red grapes that show promise including Rubin, Mavrud, Shiroka Melnishka (aka Shiroka Melnik), and Melnik 55 (a cross based on Shiroka Melnishka)
• There are fantastic wines at competitive prices compared to Western Europe

The Not So Good

• The five main international varieties still dominate (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot) which equate to many generic wines
• Many reds suffer from bad oak management

Best Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival

Top wines from Balkan countries can stand toe to toe with great wines from more renowned countries. There were some stunning wines at the festival. Greece had a strong showing as many iconic producers were represented. There were also a few familiar faces from Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, and Turkey. One of our favorite wines from Serbia captured the ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy (see below).

It is great to see that Bulgaria is an open market, with many wines from surrounding countries present – this isn’t always the case in the Balkans.

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You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Greek Wines

• Kechris, ‘Tear of the Pine’ Retsina

This is from a producer that wanted to make a Burgundy-style Retsina. The Kechris Tear of the Pine Retsina is made from a selection of grapes and is barrel aged. It is full in body with notes of pine needles, basil, white peach, and lemon. It smells like Retsina but acts like a rich, full-bodied white on the palate. Resin flavors are there but the wine shows a lot of harmony on the palate. Score: 90/100 

• Biblia Chora, Olivos White 2018

We love the Biblia Chora Olivos White and this vintage is another knockout. It’s a barrel-fermented wine made of Assyrtiko and Semillon with lots of potential to age. Ripe white peach, apple, passion fruit, and yogurt make up the flavors. The wood is integrated flawlessly, it’s weighty on the palate and the acidity keeps the wine alive and nervy. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• Monemvasia, ‘300’ 2018

The Monemvasia ‘300’ is a blend of Kidonitsa and Assyrtiko aged in stainless steel. It’s a Mediterranean white wine with notes of yellow flower, sage, and white peach. The body is oily and similar to a Vermentino from Sardinia, Italy. With a round body and bite from the ripe fruit flavors, this has real palate presence. Score: 89/100

• Kir-Yianni, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro 2013

We’ve been drinking the wines from Kir-Yianni for a long time. They do a great job with Xinomavro, a grape that we both love. This is not the current release, but it shows why Xinomavro is compared to Nebbiolo, especially Barolo. There are savory notes of tomato leaf and tobacco that go along with the red fruit and perfume. It’s medium-bodied with high acidity and grippy tannin and a long finish. If you love Barolo, it’s time to try an aged Xinomavro. Score: 92/100

Turkish Wine

• Arcadia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Brut 2015 – Turkey

We tasted the Arcardia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Sparkling wine during a masterclass and it impressed us. The wine is aged on the lees for a whopping 30 months and made from the grape Narince. It’s unique and well made with notes of pine, pear, white peach, and brioche and a fine bead of bubbles. For a Brut sparkler, it is a little sweeter than expected with a persistent finish. Score: 90/100

• Chamlija, Kara Sevda 2017 – Turkey

Mustafa Chamlija won a prize as the top Turkish producer at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. At the festival, he brought his top Papaskarasi, the Chamlija Kara Sevda. This is a fine and elegant wine with more concentration than the standard Papaskarasi bottling. There are notes of raspberry, cherry, tobacco. It’s silky, juicy and serious with fine tannins. Score: 91/100

Montenegrin Wine

• Lipovac, Tammuz Amfora 2017 – Montenegro

Lipovac is a small Montenegrin winery that produces high-quality juice. A big part of their production is made in clay amphoras. The Lipovac Tammuz is a brand new wine in the portfolio. It’s made with Kratošija (Zinfandel) fermented and matured in amphora. For a grape that is normally jammy and brash grape, this wine is very elegant. It has a pretty nose with red fruits, violets, pepper. The peppery finish and fine tannins are impressive. Score: 90/100

Serbian Wine

• Matalj, ‘Kremen Kamen’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

The Matalj Kremen Kamen 2016 won the trophy of ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. We’re fans of this wine in every vintage. The 2016 is another fine wine (although not quite at the level as the great 2012). This Cabernet Sauvignon has cherry, tobacco, and cedar notes. The fruit is ripe and the palate is round and complex with subtle power. Polished tannins guide the long finish. Score: 92/100

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Bulgarian Wine

• Château Copsa, ‘8TH’ Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Château Copsa is a boutique winery located in the Thracian Valley. The property and vineyards are heartbreakingly beautiful. The Château Copsa, ‘8TH Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the reserve wines from the estate.

It has notes of cherry, capsicum, cedar, and sweet cedar. This medium-bodied Bordeaux blend has fantastic barrel integration. The wood is used judiciously and the tannins are fine. Some may complain this wine doesn’t have a ‘sense of place’ but it’s delicious. Score: 90/100

• Edoardo Miroglio, ‘Elenovo’ Cabernet Franc 2016

Edoardo Miroglio is known for his sparkling wines and his reserve red wines named Elenovo. While we’re fans of the Elenovo Mavrud, Elenovo Rubin, Elenovo Cabernet Sauvignon, the Edoardo Miroglio Elenovo Cabernet Franc stole the show. It’s rich and ripe Cabernet Franc aged in oak for 24 months. It has the typical Cabernet Franc notes of cherry, black olive, oak, and capsicum. The wine is full in body with a silky mid-palate and grippy tannins. Think Chinon in a ripe year. Score: 90/100

• Orbelia, Sandanski Misket 2016

The Orbelia Sandanski Misket isn’t the greatest white wine in the world, but it’s a fine example of the Bulgarian grape Misket. This is a fantastic summer sipper. The wine is crisp and easy with notes of white flower, mineral, flint, and peach. For a grape that struggles to keep freshness, this has plenty of lemony acidity. It’s similar to a more floral Muscadet Sur Lie from France. Score: 88/100

• Zelanos, ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016

While Bulgaria has the reputation of producing wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon, we had several fantastic varietal Cabernet Francs at the show, including this Zelanos ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016. The wine is aged in French oak for 10 months and has capsicum, black olive, cherry notes. Full and silky with grippy tannin. Score: 90/100

• Vinex Preslav, Rubyiat 2017

Yes, it’s another Chardonnay, but this Venix Preslav Rubiyat 2017 is the real deal. Vinex Preslav one of the oldest, quality-driven wineries in Bulgaria and this is one of their reserve wines, a barrel-fermented Chardonnay. It’s a big and buttery example. There are notes of pineapple, guava, and sweet vanilla. The wine is big-bodied, but not overly fat with a long finish. Fan of Napa Chardonnay can take note of this one. Score: 91/100

• Vila Melnik, ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik 2016

The Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Melnik 55 2014 was one of the first Bulgarian wines we ever tasted. That wine is solid in its own right, but we prefer the Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik. This grape is the original Melnik which is a late-ripening grape (unlike the Melnik 55 which is a cross that ripens earlier). This wine has notes of wild strawberry, pepper, tobacco. It’s medium-bodied with some tannic kick and a spicy finish. I don’t have tons of experience with the grape but something about the acidity and tannins tell me this should age gracefully and drastically improve. Score: 89/100

• Ivo Varbanov, ‘Feux d’artifice’ Syrah 2011

Ivo Varbanov wasn’t at the festival, but I met him for dinner one night after the show. He brought this ‘Feux d’artifice Syrah 2011, which is a blockbuster. This Syrah spends 36 months in French oak – both in 225L and 500 L barrels. It has the typical notes of black fruit, tangerine peel, and pepper. Rich and muscular with tons of texture and extract, the wine is full-bodied with chewy tannin and a long finish. This is very similar to top-flight Syrahs from Washington State (USA). 92/100

The finest selection of

wines available at:

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    Do you want to try Balkan wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Balkan wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Thanks to the Balkans International Wine Competition and Festival for accommodation. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Fine Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival appeared first on Wine Travel.

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The dark-skinned grape Vranac (pronounce Vrah-nahts) is largely believed to be indigenous to Montenegro but also found in the surrounding areas such as Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Serbia. Vranac usually delivers wines that are deeply colored with juicy acidity. The best examples of Vranac can have mid- to long- term aging potential.

Vranac has a clonal relationship with Kratošija—also known as Tribidrag, Crljenak Kaštelanski, Primitivo, and Zinfandel. The name Vranac translates to “black stallion”. True to its name, many producers say that cultivating this grape is akin to taming a strong and wild mammal. The shoots grow vigorously, and the vines produce a lot of berries. As such, extensive pruning is required to reduce the crop in order to improve wine quality. In the cellar, acidity is a challenge, making it hard to produce a balanced Vranac wine.

 

As a flagship grape of Montenegro, it should be no surprise that the country’s biggest winery, Plantaže Winery, has over 1,600 hectares of Vranac planted. These vines are used to supply more than half of the winery’s nearly 2,000,000-liter annual production. However, it is North Macedonia—where the grape is spelled “Vranec” (pronounce Vrah-nehts)—that has the most Vranac plantings in the world. Vranac is also widely cultivated in Eastern Herzegovina, where it is sometimes made into high-quality red wine. The grape is also planted in southern Croatia, and it is mostly used for blending and making bulk wine; although a few producers, like Vinarija Grabovac, can make some commendable examples.

We’ve come across two general styles of Vranac during our research trips. The first has high extraction, dark fruit flavors, and plenty of oak. This style is the most prevalent in North Macedonia and Eastern Herzegovina. For wine lovers who enjoy rich Californian and Australian reds, this style of Vranac might appeal to them. The second is widespread throughout Montenegro. It’s juicier and more red fruit-driven than the first style. This style of Vranac can taste similar to some of the reds from southern Italy, which is across the Adriatic Sea from Montenegro. This is the style that we prefer although there are noteworthy examples of both styles from all of these Vranac-producing countries.

Here are 16 Vranac/Vranec blends and varietal wines to try.

Vranac from Bosnia-Herzegovina

• Tvrdoš Monastery Vranac 2013

Tvrdoš is a Serbian Orthodox monastery located in the Trebinje Valley in Eastern Herzegovina. The monastery has a rich history that dates back to the 15th century. The Tvrdoš Monastery Vranac is its flagship wine. Elevated acidity combined with the flavor profile makes the wine redolent of a tart, forest berry pie (a freshly baked one no less). It is important to note that there are significant vintage variations for this bottling: we’ve tasted several outstanding vintages of this wine and a few less so. As it seems, the challenge is having a good fruit-acid balance.

• Vukoje Vranac Rezerva 2010

The Vukoje Winery is widely considered to be the finest producer in Herzegovina. It makes several Vranac-based wines. The Vukoje Vranac Reserve is a polished interpretation. The blackberry-dominating profile is brightened by a blueberry hint, along with notes of chocolate milk and freshly tilled soil. A medium-bodied wine with soft and sweet tannins. The acidity is slightly elevated, and it has enough extract to age well in the medium term. This would make an impressive first impression for people who are new to Vranac.

Vranec from North Macedonia

• Brušani Vranec Barrique 2011

Orce Dimitrievski makes a mere few thousand bottles of Vranac and Stanušina in the basement of his home. He uses solely the grapes from his family’s vineyards in the southern part of North Macedonia. Orce loves Chateau Musar (Lebanon) and tries to make Vranac in the same style and with the same philosophy. The result is Brušani Vranec Barrique, a wine that is wildly expressive on the nose, with notes of dark chocolate bar, leather, plum jam, and dark berries. The vanilla flavor is quite pronounced on the palate, but otherwise, the oak integration is applaudable. It’s round in the mouth with some tannic strength that adds to the length. This wine will need more time to stretch out before revealing its full potential.

• Brzanov Vranec Elixir 2012

Brzanov is another small winery, which is a rarity in North Macedonia. The Elixir line includes the reserve wines of Brzanov. This is a big and powerful wine at over 17% alcohol; the alcohol is fairly integrated. Bouquet of charred wood, chocolate, blueberry, and tangy berry pie. The palate is dominated by rich texture, dark fruit flavors, and pronounced acidity. The slightly grippy end-palate adds a welcoming facet to the wine. 

• Chateau Kamnik Terroir Vranec Grand Reserva 2012

Chateau Kamnik wines available at wineandmore.com

This is one of the two “Grand Reserva” wines made by Chateau Kamnik, the most famous and respected producers in North Macedonia. A trip to the country is incomplete without a visit to Chateau Kamnik. The Chateau Kamnik Terroir Vranec Grand Reserva is made from late-harvest Vranec grapes. Dense and concentrated at 16.2% alcohol, the wine has an inky purple hue and is extremely viscous. The bouquet is significantly more robust and complex than other Vranec wines, with notes of berry jam, sour plum, and white flower. On the palate, it appears fresher and chirpier than on the nose, with a spike of blueberry flavor, balanced acidity, and tannins that are young but round. The alcohol is nicely supported.

• Popova Kula Vranec Perfect Choice 2013

Located in the Demir Kapija village, the Popova Kula property comprises a winery, hotel, and restaurant. The Popova Kula Vranec Perfect Choice shows notes of plum, leather, pepper, and earth. The enamel-eating acidity would appeal to those who enjoy highly acidic and tart red wines.

• Stobi Vranec Veritas 2011

Located next to the ancient city of Stobi, Stobi Winery produces close to five million bottles of wine every year and maintains good quality across the board, along with a few outstanding bottlings. The Stobi Vranec Veritas is a beautiful wine made from 100% Vranec. Deeply colored, viscous, and intense but not overbearing, this example stands out from the rest because of its brightness. The acidity is high but integrated. The tannins are grippy, and the finish is long and polished.

• Tikveš Barovo Red 2013

Founded in 1885, Tikveš is the oldest winery in Southeast Europe. The Tikveš Barovo Red is a reserve bottling. A blend of 50% Vranec and 50% Kratošija (Zinfandel), the berries are sourced from vineyards in the abandoned village of Barovo. The bouquet shows chocolate, dark fruit, caramel, and pepper. The palate is rich and bold with red fruit and dak fruit. The long and spicy finish makes this wine a notch above most Vranec wines. The Barovo Red has been one of our favorite North Macedonian wines year after year.

• Tikveš Bela Voda Red 2013

Another reserve red wine from Tikveš Winery, the Tikveš Bela Voda Red is a blend of 50% Vranec and 50% Plavac Mali. The berries for Bela Voda are sourced from the village of the same name. This is a dense, rich and structured wine with broad shoulders. Flavors of tobacco, chocolate, dark fruit, cedar, and spice. The tannins are round and chewy. The finish shows length and clarity. In a way, this reminds us of a Chateauneuf du Pape. We can never decide if we like the Tikveš Barovo Red or the Tikveš Bela Voda Red more. (For wine label, refer to the photo above)

Vranac from Montenegro

• Buk Vranac 2012

The Buk’s vineyards are located in Crmnica, an area surrounded by mountains and rumored to be the birthplace of Vranac. This wine has interesting notes for a Vranac wine: on the nose, it’s smoky and gamey, with additional red-fruit and blackberry expressions on the palate. The integrated acidity accentuates the impression of an easy-drinking red wine with some bite.

• Krgović Arhonto Vranac Private Reserve 2012

Krgović is a producer that has impressed us with their entire lineup. The Krgović Arhonto Vranac Private Reserve is a straight-up delicious Vranac but not short of complexity. Notes of smoked meat, red fruit, pepper, and a hint of vanilla cream—with the fruitiness playing dominance on the palate.

• Milović Status Barrique 2007

Milović Winery is located in southern Montenegro, near Albania.  This premium Vranac bottling by the winery offers a quintessential “barrique-style” Vranac with flavors of caramel chocolate, forest berries, and black pepper on a medium body.

• Lipovac Amfora Tellus 2015

Lipovac is a new winery in Montenegro, and it has already received some international recognition. The Lipovac Amfora Tellus is made from 100% Vranac grapes. Fermentation, maceration, and aging one year) all happen in amphorae. This example of Vranac shows an unadulterated expression. There’s a sense of wildness in the flavor profile: forest berries, leaf pile, and lots of underlying earthiness. The acidity is juicy and the tannins are ripe and chewy. It’s rare to find a serious, structured and well-made Vranac that hasn’t undergone oak-aging. A fantastic proof that Vranac does not need to be “tamed” by oak to achieve complexity or polish. What an outstanding effort from a young winery.

• Plantaže Vranac Premijer 2009

Aged for four years in a combination of oak casks and steel tanks, and then three more years in the bottle. The Plantaže Vranac Premijer has a magnificent scent: mixed berry pie, violet, cedar, and a hint of cocoa powder. Tangy and juicy with the acidity under control. The silky mouthfeel is accompanied by a firm structure and a persistent finish. The tannins are buried by the intense fruit notes, while the oak impact is remarkably integrated. This is the top bottling of Plantaže and our favorite example of Vranac. We simply can’t get enough of this wine’s extraordinary balance and ampleness.

• Sjekloća Crmnički Vranac 2008

The Sjekloća Winery is the first registered private winery in Montenegro and produces only a few thousand bottles every year. Some of their vines are over 100 years old. The Sjekloća Crmnički Vranac is a blend of Vranac and a small amount of Kratošija (Zinfandel). A rich and full-bodied wine with a balanced interplay between the fruity and savory characteristics. The oak impact is coming together well at this age, and the wine is tasting surprisingly fresh for its age. This wine is absolutely worth seeking out.

Serbian Vranac

• Jović Vranac 2011

Jović is the name to know if you’re looking for Vranac wine in Serbia. A red fruit-driven wine with a good mid-palate attack. The acidity is integrated and controlled. Quite different in style from other Vranac wines, this plush and fruit-forward wine shows high drinkability.

• Aleksić Armanet 2011

Made by a winery in southern Serbia with grapes from North Macedonia, the Aleksić Armanet offers flavors of chocolate, cherry, plum, and raisin on a full body powered by 15% alcohol and biting tannins. Everything seems to come in jumbo size here, but nothing seems gratuitous. This will appeal to lovers of fruit bombs.

The finest selection of

Croatian, Serbian and Macedonian 

wines available at:

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    Do you want to try Balkan wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Balkan wines, look no further than wineandmore.com With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

You May Also Enjoy

• Three Macedonian Wineries of Note
• Vinodonia Skopje Wine Salon Impressions
• Macedonian Wine Expert: Ivana Simjanovska
• Dušan Jelić: A Perspective on Balkan Wine

– Cover photo by Sunshine Soon, CC By 2.0.
– This article is based on our own opinions and is not associated with sponsorship or business promotions of any kind.

The post Vranac Without Borders: 16 Wines to Try appeared first on Wine Travel.

Raise your hand if you’ve had a wine made from the grape Vranac.

Outside of the Balkan peninsula, it might be hard-pressed to find someone who is familiar with this variety. Vranac is native to Montenegro, although most of the plantings exist in Macedonia (FYROM) where it is spelled Vranec.  You can also find Vranac-based wines in southern Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

The grape has high acidity and can be difficult on producers. Many winemakers are still figuring out what they have with this grape. Vranac makes wines with deep color, high-extract, and juicy acidity. Unfortunately, the majority of the examples we’ve tasted are over-oaked with enamel-stripping acidity. In the Balkan region, many locals associate Vranac with cheap red wine that can be found on the bottom shelves of the supermarkets.

Yes, there may be cheap examples out there. There are also many poorly made examples. That being said, there are some standout Vranac wines in Montenegro (in addition to Bosnia-Herzegovina and Macedonia). The best producers of Vranac in Montenegro include Buk, Krgović, Milović, Sjekloća, and Zenta,  in addition to the large winery Plantaže.

We will have more information on these wines in a future article about the wines of Montenegro.

Plantaže

Plantaže is a large company in Montenegro and one of the largest wineries in the Balkans. They produce just under 20 million bottles of wine per year from all estate-grown fruit. They have the largest, single-plot vineyard in Europe at 2310 hectares. Over 60% of their plantings are dedicated to Vranac.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Mar 31, 2017 at 12:20pm PDT

We know the wines from Plantaže pretty well after visiting them in the Spring of 2016. An article I wrote about the winery was published on JancisRobinson.com.

The majority of Plantaže’s production consists of inexpensive table wines. Despite their large-scale production, Plantaže produces only bottled wine. Both of their entry-level and mid-range offerings of red and white wines deliver solid value for money. These wines are fresh and fruity and are technically sound. They make for solid, inexpensive companions on the dining table.

As quality-focused wineries continue to pop up throughout the Balkan region, Plantaže has upped their game by focusing on reserve wines. They have a separate facility and a separate winemaker for these wines. Their reserve wine facility looks like a family-run cellar, complete with all sizes of high-end French oak.

So how do these wines taste? Pretty darn good. The reserve wines are well-crafted and will please a big base of wine drinkers. I do wish they would be a little more value-driven, but the quality cannot be questioned. The Stari Podrum, Premijer, and Vranac Reserve wines retail between USD25 and 75.

Tasting Notes

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Plantaže Stari Podrum (Black Label) 2011 – 100% Vranac

Plantaže produces three wines under the Stari Podrum label.This wine is dark and ripe, full or raisin, chocolate, blackberry, and raspberry notes. The wine shows wood but not too much. The wine has 6 g/L of residual sugar but it still tastes dry due to the high acidity. The wine has fine tannins and while the acidity is high, it isn’t mouth-searing. This is for people who enjoy big, ripe, and fruity wines. Nice stuff but we prefer the other two Stari Podrum offerings.    3.9/5

• Plantaže Stari Podrum (Purple Label) 2012 – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

So this is not Vranac, but it is one of Plantaże’s reserve wines and it recently won a gold medal at the 2017 Decanter World Wine Awards. Charine thinks this is her favorite Montenegrin wine on the market right now.

Aged for one year in French barriques, two years in large casks, and another year in the bottle before release. The wine has a nice tawny color on the edges. It has an intense nose. Cassis, black cherry, sweet tobacco, oak, chocolate, and a touch of brown sugar flavors are present. The palate is rich and intense but a tad oaky with fine-grained tannins. When the oak settles into this more in a few years it will be very impressive.   4.3/5

• Stari Podrum 2011 (Maroon Label) – Blend of 80% Vranac, 10% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot

I wrote about this wine in my previous article about Plantaže but decided to include it here to complete the Stari Podrum Triad!

This wine is softer with Merlot and Petit Verdot added to the blend. The blend definitely works as the wine gives off well-integrated notes of dark berry, violet, chocolate, coffee, and caramel. The wine is fruit-forward; it feels complex, rich and heavy on the palate, yet not jammy. The acidity is perfect as it leads the flavors through a long end-palate.   4.1/5

• Plantaže Vranac Reserve 2011

Dark color and really refined nose of chocolate, blackberry, spice, and a touch of cedar. The fruit flavors are concentrated and the palate is dense with many layers of flavors. In the glass this really opens up, the wood melts into the wine and it reveals more Mediterranean herb. Old World fans will be really happy with this wine. The wood is laid down pretty heavily but will no doubt settle down with time in the bottle.   4.1/5

• Plantaže Vranac Premijer 2009

Aged for four years in a combination of oak casks and inox and three years in the bottle. Extremely pretty nose of mixed berry pie, violets, cedar, and a touch of chocolate. Tangy and juicy wine with the acidity under control. It has a silky mouthfeel and spicy tannins. Tight structure and a long finish make this an enjoyable wine. This may be the finest example of Vranac that we’ve tasted.  4.3/5

You May Also Enjoy:
Vranac Without Borders: 16 Wines to Try
Plantaže, The Giant of Montenegrin Wine
Big Macedonian Wines from Chateau Kamnik 

Disclosure: Thank you Plantaže for providing the wine samples. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers.

The post Is Montenegrin Vranac Capable Of Producing Top-Tier Wines? appeared first on Wine Travel.

This article was originally written by Matthew Horkey for Jancis Robinson and published on The Purple Pages. This version of the article has been expanded with additional tasting notes and background stories from Charine Tan. 

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A bottle of Plantaže from Montenegro was the first wine we had when we arrived in the Balkans. For our first meal in Belgrade, Serbia, we ordered a one-liter bottle of  Plantaže red wine at €3. The bottle was sealed with a metal crown cork, which the waiter removed with a beer-bottle opener. As primitive as it seemed, the wine was pleasant and redolent of a Salice Salentino from Puglia, Italy.

The first wine we had when we arrived in the Balkans: a one-liter bottle of Plantaže red wine.

Montenegro, the Country of Black Mountains

Montenegro was officially declared as an independent country in 2006. The country is blessed with a true Mediterranean climate, with cool breeze coming from the Adriatic Sea and cool mountain air descending from the towering mountains in the backdrop. The prominent wine-producing regions are close to the capital city, Podgorica, and around Lake Skadar. In the decade-long effort to redefine its tourism and viticulture outside the pretext of Yugoslavia, it is unfortunate that there aren’t more small wine producers in the country yet. One speculation is that the barriers to entry are high, including the market dominance of the country’s biggest winery, Plantaže.

Winemaker Bojan taking us through a 3D, topographic map of Plantaže.

Plantaže (full name: 13. jul Plantaže) is the biggest wine producer in Montenegro and the second biggest—after Tikveš Winery in Macedonia—among the ex-Yugoslavia countries. Its wines are ubiquitous throughout the Balkan Peninsula. From the supermarkets to the local grocery shops, cafes, restaurants, and hotels, Plantaže holds a spot in virtually every wine list and liquor store.

The winery is a partially state-owned operation and produces over 95% of Montenegro’s wine. Besides the domestic provision, it also exports wine to the rest of Balkans, Russia, and Western Europe. The Plantaže winery pumps out a mind-boggling amount of 16 to 17 million liters of wine every year. They fuel this massive production entirely from their own vines, including the largest single-plot vineyard in Europe. This single-plot vineyard stretches over 2,310 hectares with 11.5 million vines planted. The main share of the grapes is Vranac, which covers about 70% of the vineyard. Most of the grapes are hand-harvest except for those that are used for their most basic bottling.

One thing that’s particularly interesting to us is that for such a big-production winery, Plantaže does not focus on bulk wine. Check out our video review below to find out more about its production’s focus, which includes an ancient variety called Krstač.

The Plantaže estate is about 30 kilometers from the south Adriatic coast. The vineyards thrive under the sun for over three-quarter of the year and nourished by chalky, pebbly, and limestone soils.

After spending an entire day exploring their colossal estate, it was time to try some wine. We walked through one of their cellars—which was once used as a Yugoslavian air force base and was heavily bombed in the 1990s—before arriving at their ultra-premium wine production facility. At the tasting session, we had the opportunity to try their basic wines all the way to their top-end bottlings.

In conclusion: the Plantaže’s basic wines are very serviceable (especially the Vranac Pro Corde), the mid-range wines are very good, and the high-end wines show a surprising amount of character.

A former Yugoslavia’s air base now converted into 13. jul Plantaže‘s cellar.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Favorite Plantaže Wines

Plantaže Vladika 2012

A blend of 80% Vranac, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. This spends one year in barrique. The wine has notes of dark fruit, capsicum, and a touch of rubber. The flavors are rounded up nicely by a velvety texture yet polarized by mouthcoating tannins. The finish is long. This value-for-money wine will appeal to fans of Old World wines.

Plantaže Vranac Reserve 2007

Vranac, whose name means “black horse”, is indigenous to Montenegro. It is a high-sugar, high-acid variety. People in the Balkans say that working with Vranac is akin to taming a horse because of its intractable acidity. This is a well-made Vranac wine that’s been aged for five years (including three years in the bottle) prior to release. Bursting with characteristics of chocolate and dark berries, perked up by smooth tannins, this wine is slightly rustic and reminds us of some Southern Italian wine. The acidity is high like most Vranac-based wines. 

Plantaže Stari Podrum 2011

Our favorite wine by Plantaže is the Stari Podrum 2011 (red label). The name Stari Podrum translates to “old cellar”. A blend of 60% Vranac, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot, the grapes for this wine come from a smaller 60-hectare plot.

The Plantaže Stari Podrum line consists of three red-wine bottlings: a 100% Vranac wine (black label) and a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine (purple label). We find this red label to have higher drinkability than the black label at the time of tasting. The Merlot adds plushness and the Petit Verdot provides additional flavors and structure. The wine is aged for two years in French barrique, one year in large oak cask, and an additional year in the bottle before release. The blend definitely works as the wine gives off well-integrated notes of dark berry, violet, chocolate, coffee, and caramel flavors. It’s fruit-forward and feels rich and heavy on the palate, yet not jammy. The acidity is perfect as it leads the flavors through a long end-palate. This tastes more like a New World-style wine but with restraint. A wonderful wine that will appeal to most wine lovers.

How’s the Wine Scene Like in Montenegro?

We’ve met several wine enthusiasts during our trips through the Balkans. A common question we get is: should I go to Montenegro? The short answer: yes, absolutely! Just don’t expect to see a large variety of wines available besides the ones from Plantaže. Also, Montenegrin wine is generally higher priced than its counterparts from neighboring countries. 

Here’s a look at some of the up-and-coming wine producers in Montenegro. There’s still a lot in Montenegro waiting to be developed and discovered. We’ll be covering some of the smaller producers in the upcoming articles.

For us, when we found out that Europe’s biggest vineyard is located in Montenegro, it was enough reason to visit the country. The vineyard and winery visit at 13. jul Plantaže was certainly a memorable experience.

A look from our patio in the morning; our apartment in Montenegro had a spectacular view of the Bay of Kotor.

Update – May 11, 2017: New Tasting video where we presented:

Plantaže Vranac 2013, Plantaže Vranac Reserve 2011, Plantaže Vranac Premijer 2009, Plantaže Vladika 2012, and Plantaže Stari Podrum Cabernet Sauvignon 2012.

Matthew Horkey’s tasting report: Is Montenegrin Vranac Capable of Producing Top-Tier Wines?

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The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions. The feature image and bottle image are from Plantaže’s website. 

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