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In the Spring of 2019, Charine and I were invited to the 8th Annual ‘Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival’ in Sofia, Bulgaria. The contest is open to wineries from all countries located in or around the Balkan Peninsula. In addition to the contest, this year featured a three-day, open-air festival where around 100 wine cellars poured over 1,000 wines.

Although we weren’t on the judging panel this year, we did participate in ] masterclasses, dinners, and the open-air festival. We cherished the opportunity to reconnect with the latest vintages from producers in countries like Serbia, Greece, and Turkey. It was also a great opportunity to get our first, in-depth taste of what’s happening in Bulgarian wine.

Bulgarian Wines: Our Impressions

We have a lot of experience with the wines of Eastern Europe. The countries that are our blind spots are Ukraine, Russia, and Bulgaria. This festival and competition was a fine opportunity for us to discover the wines of the latter. During the week, we tasted the medal-winning wines from the competition and examples from producers pouring at the festival. Here are a few quick thoughts:

The Good

• Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (both varietal and blends) showed correct flavors and high amounts of complexity
• There are several local red grapes that show promise including Rubin, Mavrud, Shiroka Melnishka (aka Shiroka Melnik), and Melnik 55 (a cross based on Shiroka Melnishka)
• There are fantastic wines at competitive prices compared to Western Europe

The Not So Good

• The five main international varieties still dominate (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot) which equate to many generic wines
• Many reds suffer from bad oak management

Best Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival

Top wines from Balkan countries can stand toe to toe with great wines from more renowned countries. There were some stunning wines at the festival. Greece had a strong showing as many iconic producers were represented. There were also a few familiar faces from Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, and Turkey. One of our favorite wines from Serbia captured the ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy (see below).

It is great to see that Bulgaria is an open market, with many wines from surrounding countries present – this isn’t always the case in the Balkans.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Greek Wines

• Kechris, ‘Tear of the Pine’ Retsina

This is from a producer that wanted to make a Burgundy-style Retsina. The Kechris Tear of the Pine Retsina is made from a selection of grapes and is barrel aged. It is full in body with notes of pine needles, basil, white peach, and lemon. It smells like Retsina but acts like a rich, full-bodied white on the palate. Resin flavors are there but the wine shows a lot of harmony on the palate. Score: 90/100 

• Biblia Chora, Olivos White 2018

We love the Biblia Chora Olivos White and this vintage is another knockout. It’s a barrel-fermented wine made of Assyrtiko and Semillon with lots of potential to age. Ripe white peach, apple, passion fruit, and yogurt make up the flavors. The wood is integrated flawlessly, it’s weighty on the palate and the acidity keeps the wine alive and nervy. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• Monemvasia, ‘300’ 2018

The Monemvasia ‘300’ is a blend of Kidonitsa and Assyrtiko aged in stainless steel. It’s a Mediterranean white wine with notes of yellow flower, sage, and white peach. The body is oily and similar to a Vermentino from Sardinia, Italy. With a round body and bite from the ripe fruit flavors, this has real palate presence. Score: 89/100

• Kir-Yianni, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro 2013

We’ve been drinking the wines from Kir-Yianni for a long time. They do a great job with Xinomavro, a grape that we both love. This is not the current release, but it shows why Xinomavro is compared to Nebbiolo, especially Barolo. There are savory notes of tomato leaf and tobacco that go along with the red fruit and perfume. It’s medium-bodied with high acidity and grippy tannin and a long finish. If you love Barolo, it’s time to try an aged Xinomavro. Score: 92/100

Turkish Wine

• Arcadia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Brut 2015 – Turkey

We tasted the Arcardia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Sparkling wine during a masterclass and it impressed us. The wine is aged on the lees for a whopping 30 months and made from the grape Narince. It’s unique and well made with notes of pine, pear, white peach, and brioche and a fine bead of bubbles. For a Brut sparkler, it is a little sweeter than expected with a persistent finish. Score: 90/100

• Chamlija, Kara Sevda 2017 – Turkey

Mustafa Chamlija won a prize as the top Turkish producer at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. At the festival, he brought his top Papaskarasi, the Chamlija Kara Sevda. This is a fine and elegant wine with more concentration than the standard Papaskarasi bottling. There are notes of raspberry, cherry, tobacco. It’s silky, juicy and serious with fine tannins. Score: 91/100

Montenegrin Wine

• Lipovac, Tammuz Amfora 2017 – Montenegro

Lipovac is a small Montenegrin winery that produces high-quality juice. A big part of their production is made in clay amphoras. The Lipovac Tammuz is a brand new wine in the portfolio. It’s made with Kratošija (Zinfandel) fermented and matured in amphora. For a grape that is normally jammy and brash grape, this wine is very elegant. It has a pretty nose with red fruits, violets, pepper. The peppery finish and fine tannins are impressive. Score: 90/100

Serbian Wine

• Matalj, ‘Kremen Kamen’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

The Matalj Kremen Kamen 2016 won the trophy of ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. We’re fans of this wine in every vintage. The 2016 is another fine wine (although not quite at the level as the great 2012). This Cabernet Sauvignon has cherry, tobacco, and cedar notes. The fruit is ripe and the palate is round and complex with subtle power. Polished tannins guide the long finish. Score: 92/100

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Bulgarian Wine

• Château Copsa, ‘8TH’ Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Château Copsa is a boutique winery located in the Thracian Valley. The property and vineyards are heartbreakingly beautiful. The Château Copsa, ‘8TH Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the reserve wines from the estate.

It has notes of cherry, capsicum, cedar, and sweet cedar. This medium-bodied Bordeaux blend has fantastic barrel integration. The wood is used judiciously and the tannins are fine. Some may complain this wine doesn’t have a ‘sense of place’ but it’s delicious. Score: 90/100

• Edoardo Miroglio, ‘Elenovo’ Cabernet Franc 2016

Edoardo Miroglio is known for his sparkling wines and his reserve red wines named Elenovo. While we’re fans of the Elenovo Mavrud, Elenovo Rubin, Elenovo Cabernet Sauvignon, the Edoardo Miroglio Elenovo Cabernet Franc stole the show. It’s rich and ripe Cabernet Franc aged in oak for 24 months. It has the typical Cabernet Franc notes of cherry, black olive, oak, and capsicum. The wine is full in body with a silky mid-palate and grippy tannins. Think Chinon in a ripe year. Score: 90/100

• Orbelia, Sandanski Misket 2016

The Orbelia Sandanski Misket isn’t the greatest white wine in the world, but it’s a fine example of the Bulgarian grape Misket. This is a fantastic summer sipper. The wine is crisp and easy with notes of white flower, mineral, flint, and peach. For a grape that struggles to keep freshness, this has plenty of lemony acidity. It’s similar to a more floral Muscadet Sur Lie from France. Score: 88/100

• Zelanos, ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016

While Bulgaria has the reputation of producing wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon, we had several fantastic varietal Cabernet Francs at the show, including this Zelanos ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016. The wine is aged in French oak for 10 months and has capsicum, black olive, cherry notes. Full and silky with grippy tannin. Score: 90/100

• Vinex Preslav, Rubyiat 2017

Yes, it’s another Chardonnay, but this Venix Preslav Rubiyat 2017 is the real deal. Vinex Preslav one of the oldest, quality-driven wineries in Bulgaria and this is one of their reserve wines, a barrel-fermented Chardonnay. It’s a big and buttery example. There are notes of pineapple, guava, and sweet vanilla. The wine is big-bodied, but not overly fat with a long finish. Fan of Napa Chardonnay can take note of this one. Score: 91/100

• Vila Melnik, ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik 2016

The Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Melnik 55 2014 was one of the first Bulgarian wines we ever tasted. That wine is solid in its own right, but we prefer the Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik. This grape is the original Melnik which is a late-ripening grape (unlike the Melnik 55 which is a cross that ripens earlier). This wine has notes of wild strawberry, pepper, tobacco. It’s medium-bodied with some tannic kick and a spicy finish. I don’t have tons of experience with the grape but something about the acidity and tannins tell me this should age gracefully and drastically improve. Score: 89/100

• Ivo Varbanov, ‘Feux d’artifice’ Syrah 2011

Ivo Varbanov wasn’t at the festival, but I met him for dinner one night after the show. He brought this ‘Feux d’artifice Syrah 2011, which is a blockbuster. This Syrah spends 36 months in French oak – both in 225L and 500 L barrels. It has the typical notes of black fruit, tangerine peel, and pepper. Rich and muscular with tons of texture and extract, the wine is full-bodied with chewy tannin and a long finish. This is very similar to top-flight Syrahs from Washington State (USA). 92/100

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    Do you want to try Balkan wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Balkan wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Thanks to the Balkans International Wine Competition and Festival for accommodation. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Fine Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival appeared first on Wine Travel.

When we made our seven-week trip through Turkey in the summer of 2015, we were green in the wine industry. What made the situation more challenging was the lack of online information about Turkish wine. The Turkish laws forbad advertising for alcoholic beverages, which included advertising on online domains. None of the Turkish wineries’ websites worked once we were in Turkey. One time we attempted to load a website of a winery, an odd and what seemed like a customised 404 error page appeared: there was a glass and some text in Turkish; the page was a dead end and the site was not navigable beyond that point. When we asked our guesthouse owner to translate the writing, he looked puzzled and said, “Our website is empty but the glasses will keep flowing.” We took a screenshot of the error page; you can see it below.

Back then, our focus was on the birthplace of wine and indigenous grapes, and because of that, we decided to skip the ‘internationalised’ and ‘touristic’ wine region of Thrace entirely and travel further south. That was a mistake. There are a handful of not only indigenous but also ancient wine grapes cultivated in the region, along with many high-quality wineries that are making vinous magic. One of the eminent producers there is Chamlija (pronounce: chahm-lee-zjah).

Book Trailer: Uncorking the Caucasus – Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia

Chamlija Winery (Thrace, Turkey)

Mustafa Camlica is the founder of Chamlija Winery and his daughter, Irem Camlica, is the designer of the psychedelic wine labels. The vineyards of Chamlija are on the Strandja Massif, with the Thrace basin to the south, Istanbul to the east, and the Black Sea to the north. This area of Thrace is near Bulgaria and experiences a continental climate but with temperature-moderating influences from the Black Sea, which is about 30 kilometers away. The soils consist of decomposed granite and limestone. Currently, the annual production at Chamlija is around 100,000 bottles, and the grapes are sourced from 85 hectares of certified sustainable estate vineyards. Many of the vines are young, so the vineyards are not producing at full capacity yet.

Chamlija’s Wines

A few months ago, we were invited by Hurol Emre Candan of Amarone D.O.O to taste Chamlija’s wines. Amarone DOO is a Turkish wine importer in Belgrade, Serbia, and Hurol is enthusiastically partial to Chamlija. He knew we had not tried Chamlija’s wines and offered to organize a private tasting for us at Vinoteka Beograd, which happened to be our favorite wine shop in Belgrade.

We tasted five wines that evening. All the wines performed above our expectations. What stood out to us the most was the healthy fruit. All the wines showed phenomenal phenolic ripeness. The wines tasted concentrated—a level of concentration that reminded us of Santa Barbara’s wines. A kind of sweetness without heaviness or residual sugar. Power without sloppiness. Ripeness with good acidity. There was no sign of green tannins and no sense of heavy-handed extraction. All the wines had intense aromas and vibrant flavors on the palate that lived up to the impressions set on the nose.

Watch: Turkish Wine by Chamlija Winery

Chamlija Wine Tasting

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Chamlija Narince 2014

When in Turkey, Narince (pronounce nah-reen-jeh) wines were always a default ‘safe’ choice for us. One whiff of this wine evokes many fond memories of our trip. The Chamlija Narince is made from grapes grown on decomposed granite. Two things about this wine’s flavor profile stand out to us immediately: citrus and mineral. The wine has an incredibly smooth and round mouthfeel with notes of slate, lime, orange, pine, green herbs, and nectarine.

Use this wine to impress your wine geeks friends.   3.8/5 

• Chamlija Quartz Fumé 2015

The Chamlija Quartz Fumé is 100% Sauvignon Blanc matured in French oak for 10 months.

This is called Quartz Fumé for good reason. It does smell like quartz, along with aromas of freshly baked vanilla cake, fresh green herbs, sweet citrus, apricot, peach, orange peel, and fish oil. The bouquet is distinct and reminds us of being in an orchard. Just beautiful aromas that you can imagine coming from a burning aromatherapy candle. The few days of cold maceration really shows in this wine; the good thing is that the palate follows up strongly with ripe fruit flavors supported by a firm acidic spine. The finish is zesty and spicy.

Offer this wine to that friend who says, “I don’t like Sauvignon Blanc.”   4.0/5

• Chamlija Papaskarasi 2015

Wine geek alert: Papaskarasi is an ancient variety that is indigenous to Thrace and has suspected DNA links to Prokupac, Kardarka, and Alba Imputotato.

The Chamlija Papaskarasi is a blend of 85% Papaskarasi and 15% of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. 15% of the grapes underwent whole-bunch fermentation in open-top vessels. The result is a low-alcohol (12% ABV), light red wine that shows notes of sour cherry, rhubarb, brown spice, white pepper, Mediterranean herbs, and violet. On the palate, it’s surprising tart and the spiciness lingers.

* Note: We weren’t particularly fond of this wine initially. But after 30 minutes of aeration, it became a charmer.

Drink it with some hard cheese.   4.0/5

• Chamlija Cabernet Franc 2014

For our palates, finding good varietal Cabernet Franc wines outside Loire (France) or Villány (Hungary) can be a challenge. This wine gets extra brownie points for being aligned with our preferences.

The Chamlija Cabernet Franc delivers flavors of sweet cherry, green capsicum, pencil shaving, and rose, plus a touch of earthy, soil-like note. It has a beautifully round and smooth mouthfeel with a good amount of density and lightly grippy tannins that hit the end-palate. We’re particularly impressed with the structure and persistent finish.

Share this with your winemaker-friends.   4.2/5

• Chamlija Thracian 2013

This is one of the top-tier wine in Chamlija’s portfolio. A blend of 47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, the Chamlija Thracian 2013 was aged for 20 months in French oak (80% new oak).

The bouquet expresses notes of ripe plum, blackcurrant, black cherry, black pepper, leather, and cigar box. The broad shoulders are supported by lushness on the palate. Quite an opulent wine with round tannins and a long finish. The Merlot really shows its strength in this wine. The oak still needs more time to settle down, but the fruit is standing up well to it even right now.

Have it as a nightcap.   4.0/5

What’s Next

After the tasting, we caught up with Mustafa Camlica on Facebook Messenger. He shared that, together with Bosphorus University, he is working on a program that aims to select “the best natural yeast derived from Strandja terroir”. We were thrilled to receive the update and look forward to tasting more Chamlija wines.

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Learn More About Turkish Wines

To learn more about the wines of Turkey, check out Uncorking the Caucasus. 
To purchase Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia,
please go to our Amazon page.

“Everyone who loves wine deserves to know its history.  This book offers amazing details of the cradle of modern wine and will inspire you to drink (and travel) outside the box.”

Madeline Puckette, ‎Co-Founder and Content Director, Wine Folly

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Chamlija: Wines of the Black Sea appeared first on Wine Travel.

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Sarah Abbott is a Master of Wine who comes from a food-loving family. After working in the IT software industry for several years, she decided to change her career trajectory and immerse in wine in 1996. Her first foray into wine was as a sales and marketing representative at an importing company of domaine-bottled Burgundy. She describes the pay as meager but she “drank like a stockbroker”.

After working with many inspiring people in the wine world and encouraged by them to further her expertise, Sarah enrolled in the Masters of Wine program. In 2008, she earned the academic title MW and off she went with following her heart and working her tail off. She founded Swirl, a wine education and events company that works with customers of different levels — from end-consumers, to corporate clients, importers, and producers. Regardless the setup, her goals are to empower consumers, celebrate the stories of wine, and harness the power of wine to unite people.

Conversation with Sarah Abbott, Master of Wine
& Champion for Lesser-known Wine Regions

• What is the difference between a Master Sommelier (MS) and a Master of Wine (MW)? 

They are two different exams run and awarded by two different organisations. Both require the highest levels of wine knowledge and insight, but they have different emphases and the style of exam is different too. Master Sommeliers have demonstrated their ability and excellence with wine in an on-trade environment. That means verbally showing their knowledge, and displaying physical skill and dexterity when it comes to actually serving wine. The MW exam is all written, there’s no spoken element, and I suppose it’s more theoretical. The syllabus for MW is broader. We don’t go into the depth of wine service that MS does.

• What’s the most valuable lesson you have learned as a Master of Wine?

Cultivate cheerful humility and relentless curiosity. Get organised. Allow yourself to be helped. Be ready to help others. Being a Master of Wine isn’t about proving how great you are. Rather, it is about surrendering yourself to understanding a natural and cultural way in which the world is expressed. During the course of my study, I’ve received first-hand experience of depending on those who came before me, the generosity of producers, and my fellow classmates.

• What does wine mean to you?

Wine is an ambassador for civilisation. It is a symbol of hope, stability, and cultural refinement. More importantly, it represents hospitality and togetherness. It’s a way of understanding our beautiful world. Wine is a way of connecting with friends, soon-to-be friends, and humanity. And it’s really great fun to drink.

• That’s a beautiful way to put it. It’s one of the many reasons why we always enjoy talking to you: we can feel the romance and tenderness in your words. But how do you keep your love for wine from becoming too technical and work related? Is it challenging to have what’s predominantly a hobby and passion to most people as your everyday work?

No, I’m inherently frivolous so keeping fun in my work is really easy for me. I did have ‘if a job’s worth doing it’s worth doing well’ drummed into me as a kid. I’m very lucky to be working with something I love and find so endlessly interesting.

• You’re known to champion lesser-known wine regions. When we traveled through Georgia and Turkey, many winemakers spoke fondly of you. So let’s talk about Turkish wine. Can you tell us a few of your favourite Turkish grape varieties and how they perform next to international, well-known grapes?

Öküzgözü is great fun. It is fleshy, sumptuous, and aromatic. It reminds me a bit of Syrah, but with the aromatics and lift of Sangiovese. Bogazkere is a moody but potentially great variety. I guess you could compare it to Tannat or Nebbiolo because of its tannic structure. But the fruit is darker and less floral. Kalecik Karası is a gorgeously alluring red wine grape. Some people compare it to Pinot Noir, but if so it’s like Pinot Noir on holiday –  very relaxed and not at all neurotic. Narince is like what Pinot Grigio would be if it was more interesting – delicate and sneakily aromatic. Emir is steely – a bit like Manseng but with more aromatics. Sultaniye is really good fun and very drinkable – reminds me of good Pinot Blanc, which I think is a variety much underestimated for uncomplicated pleasure.

• Yes, we are fans of those grapes that you mentioned. There are many distinguished Turkish wine grapes that show a lot of potential. What would you like wine lovers to think or feel when they drink Turkish wine?

Be open, be bold, be hopeful.

• Let’s move on to Georgian wine and specifically, Georgian wine made in the qvevri. What do wine lovers need to know and how can they enjoy it?

Qvevri is one of the oldest winemaking methods in the world, but in Georgia it is an unbroken tradition that exists in both traditional and modern forms. Qvevri are buried clay vessels in which freshly harvested grape bunches are placed and then fermented. Qvevri solve a lot of winemaking problems, so are popular among producers who favour a ‘less is more’ approach when it comes to intervention and additions.

Grapes getting fermented in a buried qvevri at the Pheasant’s Tears winery in Georgia.

• What is the next stage for you? What ambition do you have for your own development and for these lesser-known wine regions that you work with? 

I want to continue to help lesser known and underestimated wines secure their future and find their market. I know that sometimes ‘selling’ is seen as something that is less poetic than the creation of the wines or the tradition of these unique varieties and places. But nothing happens until something is sold. We need to match these quirky, beautiful wines with people who love them and are delighted to buy them. That’s how we keep this sort of wine biodiversity, and link to the past, and give to the future. And create memories. Life is short, and we’re here to enjoy it.

You May Also Enjoy
Chamlija: Wines of the Black Sea
How to Promote Wine Tourism and Wines of Lesser-Known Regions
Fine Turkish White Wine from Bozcaada
Trendsetter: Burcak Desombre, Turkish Wine Maestro
Trendsetter: Oliver Gareis From Amadeus Winery, Turkey

The post Trendsetter: Sarah Abbott, Master of Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

For a listing of articles and videos on Turkish wine and other wines from the Caucasus region, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of the book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to this Amazon product page.

Burcak Desombre is the founder of Vinipedia Wine Consultancy, a leading wine educator in Turkey, and an expert on Turkish wine. She is a sought-after resource in the wine industry because of her knowledge and passion.

We got a chance to speak with Burcak
and gather her insight into the Turkish wine industry.

• How did you get into wine?

When I was growing up, my father had always allowed me to taste a little wine at dinner. So I was tasting wine for a long time without really knowing much about it. When I turned 19 years old, I went to France for university and naturally became more acquainted with wine there.

In 2006, I returned to Turkey and after a few jobs, I became a brand manager for the biggest wine importer in the country. From there, my love of wine flourished. Later, I embarked on the WSET education and became the first woman to compete in the Turkish Sommelier competition where I finished second. Following that, I represented Turkey in the Young Sommelier Competition. And finally, I decided to start my own business.

I was the first person living in Turkey to get the “Certified Sommelier” title from Court of Master Sommeliers. From that point, I began to introduce myself as a wine educator and wine consultant, but people often asked if I was working at one of the big companies. It was a foreign concept that I could be an independent wine consultant or have my own wine business.

I am currently in London, undergoing the WSET Diploma education.

• Tell us about the Turkish wine industry. What are the major changes you’ve seen in the past years?

Ten years ago, there were very few choices for wine lovers–they were limited by a few bulk wines made by big producers. Even the selection of imported wines was poor because it was done by a monopoly. By the beginning of the 2000’s, the law changed, which allowed boutique wineries to open. Before that, a winery must produce 1,000,000 liters per year to legally operate. The monopoly on imported wine was also privatized and some inexpensive foreign wines started to reach the supermarket shelves.

At the same time, many private investments went into the Thrace and Aegean regions to start wineries. Around 2005 to 2007, the first vintages started to hit the market. They were mostly oaky, wannabe-wines, but at least there was something there. Soon after, in 2009, several major wine personalities started to come to Turkey, like Jancis Robinson and other big names. Most of them picked up and commented on the high level of oak influence in the wines.

Those first few batches of wines from boutique wineries may be too oaky, but over time the new vintages gained more elegance; and as the vineyards became older, the age also added complexity to the wines. Between 2009 and 2013, there was a short golden age for boutique Turkish wines. All that changed in 2013 when new laws were passed and made marketing and branding wines in Turkey impossible. Tasting within wineries is illegal, so a few wineries have opened up cafes or boutique hotels where their wines can be served.

• Which wine regions does your business focus on?

There are two parts to my business. One is working with professionals. For example, I offer consulting services to duty-free shops and foreign wine professionals who are interested in Turkey. I also work with hotels and restaurants on their wine lists and staff training. The other branch of my business is dealing with the end-consumers. I feel that if I have to say I specialize in any specific Turkish wine area, it would be Thrace. This is because of its proximity to Istanbul, the considerable investment that has gone into this area, the boutique winery movement, and the established wine route. Thrace is the first region in Turkey to commit to wine tourism.

Thrace is very interesting because it isn’t as warm as the Aegean coast. The local grape varieties have been neglected for a long time ago and very few wineries are attempting to revive them. Most of the wine production in Thrace is centered on international varieties, which are thriving because of the maritime influence. I am really excited about the Shiraz produced there. There are also a few promising Pinot Noir trials.

Thrace is a big wine-producing region with many wineries and enotourism opportunities. Just recently, I organized a local competition for Thrace wines and 16 producers submitted their wines. There are many more producers than that. Many of them are second- and third- generation producers who are making table wines for the locals; you need to know someone–a local contact–to find them. Many wineries have also opened boutique hotels and restaurants, so there are many possibilities for tourism.

Again, Thrace’s proximity to Istanbul is very convenient, because you can do day trips to the wineries.

• What are the challenges in promoting Turkish wine?

Within Turkey, it is so difficult to capture the end-consumers. There are not many good, specialty wine shops; generally, people are not very educated about wine and there are not many places that offer proper information. The situation is improving with the Kayra Academy offering WSET education, but it’s one of the few places that do this.

While the country is seemingly leaning towards becoming more conservative, it has not affected open-minded people who want to taste and know more about wine.

The laws hinder advertising, so boutique producers really have to work hard to promote their wines. Many people have turned to private dinners where they get a chance to taste different wines over the course of a meal. Small wine producers love this concept and are willing to offer samples because it is one of the few ways that they can gain exposure. I see a rise of young professionals in Turkey who want to take the WSET courses, want to organize private dinners, and want to try more wine. This is very encouraging.

• What can Turkey offer wine lovers that no other wine countries can?

It’s the history; for that we need to focus on eastern Turkey. It is a difficult area to travel in but can be very rewarding at the same time. In that part of the country, there are old and beautiful vineyards, odd pruning systems that can still be found today, and a lot of land work is still done with animals. This is an area for the true romantics.

Coming back to Thrace and the Aegean coast, both areas are located next to large, vibrant cities like Istanbul and Izmir. Istanbul needs no further promotion but we should not forget about Izmir, which is beautiful and rich in history. Having wine regions that are close enough for day trips from both cities is a huge plus for wine tourism.

• What advice would you offer to wine lovers who want to explore Turkey and its wine?

There is an absolute need for local contacts. In many regions, anyone coming independently would not be able to find the wineries and vineyards. Even for myself, I would want a local contact when traveling through eastern Turkey. All the best wines of Turkey are off the beaten path–take Cappadocia for instance, it is a wine-producing area and sees a high volume of tourism; it is very beautiful but most visitors are drinking bad wines.

• In your opinion, which indigenous varieties of Turkey are the most promising?

More than the boutique wineries, the big producers are working hard to revive the local varieties. Öküzgözü and Boğazkere show a lot of promise. Boğazkere is a somewhat rustic grape but there are some excellent examples like the Kavaklidere Prestige. Kayra Winery does a good job with Öküzgözü and they produce it in many different styles. Kalecik Karası is a problematic grape that can be done well, but many producers use it to make simple, fruity, Beaujolais Nouveau-style wines. I also enjoy the grape Narince as a young and fresh white wine.

• In your opinion, what does Turkey need to do to distinguish itself as a wine-producing country?

I think we need to focus more on the local varieties and if needed, blend them with international varieties; this will make it easier to enter new markets. We also need to focus more on Asian markets because Europe has the idea that Turkey is a Muslim country and does not produce wine. Asia does not have these preconceptions and the demand for wine there keeps increasing.

Unfortunately, today, Turkey is not known as a wine-producing country. Our wines are relatively expensive due to the need to import all the raw materials with the exception of the grapes. Because of this, wineries should focus on building a collective brand for Turkish wine, and not just focus on their own winery’s branding. The Turkish wine industry, while rich in history, is too young to rely on one or two brands. We should all work together, work better collectively, which is happening more often now after the new alcohol laws have been passed.

We also need more brand ambassadors, not just big names, but people that travel and have a broad perspective. We need people to tell the story of Turkish wine.

Excerpt from Uncorking the Caucasus

About Boğazkere

(pronounce bow-ahz-ke-re)  This red wine variety is native to the Diyarbakir area of southeastern Turkey. Based on geography, this may be one of the first varieties used in winemaking. It prefers hot, dry climates at high altitudes. The name Boğazkere translates to “throat burner”, which is probably in reference to its strong tannins. It is typically made into a full-bodied wine with medium acidity. Its flavor profile includes dark berry, pepper, dark chocolate, and licorice. We found this variety mostly in the areas of Elazığ, Cappadocia, and Pamukkale in the Aegean Region. It is used as a blending grape, as well as in varietal wine.

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