There are a few can’t miss places for wine lovers in Budapest and Könyvbár & Restaurant is one of them. Every time we pass through the city, we pay a visit to Könyvbár (which translates to ‘book bar’). It’s located in District VII as is one of only two establishments listed on the Raisin Natural Wine App in Budapest.

The reason we frequent the restaurant is because of proprietor Mihály Lippai. He is passionate about wines, focusing on small producers within Hungary. We have tasted many wines here that are not available anywhere else in Budapest. Mihály leans toward natural wines, he carries labels from around the world but heavily features those from his homeland.

“There are some youngsters and curious makers who are ready to break the rules and move Hungarian wine forward. I believe this country is going to be better with this new generation,” Mihály says.

It had been one year since I last visited the restaurant. After a 4-day press trip with hungarianwines.eu, I made a long-awaited return. It was great to see the cuisine had improved with a new chef. The dishes have traditional Hungarian flavors prepared and presented in a contemporary way. Another noticeable difference is the number of foreign wines on offer.

That evening, I wanted to focus on Hungarian producers (although there were a few international wines sprinkled in throughout the night). The number of small, high-quality producers in Hungary baffles me. While there isn’t a big natural (minimal-intervention) wine movement in Hungary but there are several high-quality producers leading the charge. Some of these producers are already producing some knockout wines.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

• Bencze, ‘Kék’ 2017 – Balaton

Bencze is a small producer on the North Balaton shore. The Bencze Kék is made from the grape Kékbokator and it’s an exciting wine. The nose confuses you because it is rather shy at first with a faint amount of yeast and yellow flower. However, the palate explodes with starfruit and intense salinity. Long, citrusy finish it has Riesling-like acidity. Score: 91/100

• Sziegl Pincé, ‘Kolostor Domb’ Kadarka 2017 – Hájos-Baja

Sziegl is a small producer in the Hájos-Baja, which is not one of the more renowned regions in Hungary. We’ve been fans of their Kékfranks in the past but this is a step up in quality. The Sziegl ‘Kolostor Domb’ Kadarka is a made in tiny quantities – one barrel was produced.

There are notes of rhubarb, strawberry, pepper, and earth. This smells delicate and easy on the palate but it’s full and rich in body. The mid-palate is silky and intense while the finish is peppery and long. Only 12% in alcohol, this is downright beautiful, light red wine. Score: 93/100

• Grand vin de Barnag, Schmutzig 2018 – Balaton

Grand vin de Barnag is a tiny project started by a sommelier who produces small batches of wine in Balaton. This is Zweigelt aged in the barrel for 8 months. This is a light and earthy red wine. Notes of cherry, fall leaves, pepper, and caramel. This is a raw, juicy, and fruity natural wine. It smells like a conventional wine but tastes like natural wine. Tart acidity and low level of tannins. This is a name to keep your eye on. Score: 86/100

• Organic, Cuvée Marie Vallis Rufus 2016 – Južnoslovenská (Slovakia)

Stefan Kasynik is a wizard in Južnoslovenská (South Slovakia). Like many winemakers in the region, he identifies himself as ethnically Hungarian. The Organic Cuvée Maria Vallus Rufus is a blend of St. Laurent, Andrée, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, and Alibernet. Crazy blend that is crazy complex and delicious. Notes of dark berry, cedar, pepper, and dried strawberry. This is juicy, medium-bodied and crazy complex. It has a lot of ripe red fruits with a touch of French stemminess to it. Score: 92/100

*Check out our article on the Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus (orange wine).

• Grál Borpince, Pelzberg 2016 – Tolna

Grál Borpince produces beautiful wines in the Tolna region, which is adjacent to the more famous Szekszárd. The Grál Borpince Pelzberg is 100% Kékfrankos. Notes of juicy strawberry, fall leaves, earth, and pepper. This wine is red fruit-driven and has tons of delicious factor. Silky mid-palate with slightly grippy tannins and a long finish. Outstanding stuff. Score: 92/100

• Ráspi, Kékfrankos Selection 2006 – Sopron

Ráspi is a big name in the region of Sopron, which is basically an extension of Austria’s Burgenland. The Ráspi Kékfrankos Selection 2006 has an incredible nose with wax, fall leaves, mushroom, red fruit, and pepper. This is a true, cool-climate red. The age has rounded the palate on this wine. The tannins are developed and the wine has a beautiful spiciness to it. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• Stumpf, ‘Nagy-Eged Cuvée’ Cabernet Franc Merlot 2015 – Egér

Stumpf Pincészet is a small producer in Egér constructing exciting wines with the help of Master Sommelier John Szabo. They producer several red wines from the Nagy-Eged Cru including a Bikavér, Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, and this cuvée. The Stumpf ‘Nagy-Eged Cuvée’ Cabernet Franc Merlot is darker and richer than their other reds. It has a core of dark fruit that is held together with a tight frame of acidity and fine tannins. It’s got a subtly spicy finish. I prefer their other reds a tad more but this is still a delicious wine. Score: 90+/100

• Királyudvar, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000 – Tokaj-Hegyalja

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Királyudvar is one of the legendary names in Tokaj and their 6 puttonyos is well regarded. The Királyudvar Tokaji Aszuú 6 Putonyos 2000 is dark in color from the bottle age. It has notes of caramel, lemon, natural gas fall leaves, coffee, and citrus peel. The wine is nutty, full-bodied, and rich. It’s an old-school Tokaj with a long and fiery finish. Score: 95/100

Bonus Vin Jeune

• Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot, Château-Chalon 2008 – Jura (France)

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Ok ok, the Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Château-Chalon is not a Hungarian wine. This is a French wine from the Jura and a marvelous one at that. Vin Jeunes are wines aged under a thin layer of bacteria (flor) like Sherry. This has notes of almond, pear, white apple, caramel, and pepper. It’s unique and full-bodied with lots of nuttiness on the palate. This complex wine finishes long and salty. The Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Château-Chalon is a true meditation wine. Score: 96/100

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Thank you to KönyvBár & Restaurant who provided the tasting. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Hungarian Wine: A Walk On The Wild Side appeared first on Wine Travel.

Charine and I are huge fans of Hungarian wines and jump at every opportunity to return to the country and taste. So when hungarianwines.eu invited me to attend their 4-day study trip for the second year in a row, I immediately said yes.

The trip included stops in the Hungarian wine regions of Egér, Hajós-Baja, Mór, and Balaton. The trip consisted of visits with producers, winemaker dinners, and organized tastings. I attended the trip with guests from Canada, Italy, the United Kingdom, and Spain.

As expected, the quality of Hungarian wines I tasted on the trip were very good. This is a country with a long history of wine production and it’s unfortunate the world doesn’t know more about these wines. I feel there are several good reasons for that. First is the fact that the Hungarian language is incredibly difficult to grasp. To the consumer, Hungarian wine labels might as well be written in Martian.

In my opinion, the second reason is the overall mindset when it comes to marketing. Hungarians are proud people, as they should be. For decades, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was one of the largest and most powerful nations in Europe. It seems to me that many Hungarians feel too proud to market their wines or seek help. This is unfortunate because it deprives the wine consumer of experiencing fantastic and unique wines.

Despite these two factors, I am optimistic that Hungarian wines can breakthrough. Hungary is home to Tokaj, which produces some of the world’s greatest sweet wine and the quality of the dry wines is equally impressive. There is a wide range of styles from the rich reds of Villány and Szekszárd to the mineral-driven whites of Somló.

Charine and I continue to be the biggest cheerleaders of Hungarian wine. Overall, the quality of wine production in Hungary is among the highest in Eastern Europe. It should be a matter of time before the rest of the wine world shares our sentiment.

Here are the Hungarian wines that stood out the most during my four days back in the country.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Juliet Victor, Tokaji Édes Szamorodni 2017 – Tokaj-Hegyalja 

Juliet Victor is a new producer in Tokaj and this is their only sweet wine so far (they will be releasing a Tokaji Aszú in the future). Szamorodni is a unique style of sweet wine usually only sold in Hungary. The Juliet Victor Tokaji Édes Szamorodni is a blend Furmint, Hárslevelü, and Yellow Muscat. It has rich notes of sweet peach, white flowers, mineral, and lemon. It’s full and concentrated with a high level of residual sugar for a sweet Szamorodni (189 g/L). This needs to lay down in the cellar for a few more years to show its best. Score: 92/100

• Toth Ferenc, Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 – Egér

The Toth Ferenc Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 is the most impressive wine I’ve ever tasted from this winery. This Egri Bull’s Blood is a blend of Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir. It has notes of sour cherry, graphite, pepper, and stemmy. Aged for 15 months in the barrel. This plays on the lighter and stemmier side of red. It’s a medium-bodied red, the tannins are a little unripe, but overall this is a solid effort. Score: 90/100

• St. Andrea, ‘Boldogságos’ Egri Csillag Grand Superior 2018 – Egér

Egri Csillag translates to the “Star of Eger”. The St. Andrea Boldogságos isn’t the winery’s top Egri Csillag but it delicious and well made. This is a single vineyard wine with Olaszrizling, Pinot Gris, Hárslevelü, Furmint, Sauvignon Blanc and this vintage has a touch of Viognier in it. The latter grape adds some floral notes in addition to the flavors of white peach, lemon, and yogurt. It’s full-bodied and rich white with a grassy, spiciness to it. This is a baby now but will round out beautifully with some age. Score: 90/100

*For a step up in complexity we highly recommend their Örökké and Maria Egri Csillags.

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Thummerer, Egri Csillag Grand Superior 2015 – Egér

The Thummerer Egri Csillage Grand Superior is one of the best wines I’ve tasted from this particular estate. It’s a partially barrel-fermented white blend of Chardonnay, Olaszrizling, Királyleányka, Leányka, and Traminer. The Chardonnay really dominates here. This is ripe and big with notes of white peach, melon, yogurt, and a touch of grass. Score: 91/100

• Bolyki, Egri Bikavér 2016 – Egér

There were many good Egri Bikavérs at the tasting including Gál Tibor, St. Andrea, Kovacs Nimrod and others but the Bolyki Egri Bikavér stood out for its great value. This is found under 10 Euros in Hungary and is exported. This unfiltered wine is a blend of Kékfrankos, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir. It has a rich nose with flavors of blueberry, cherry, earth, and a touch of pepper. This is a medium-bodied red with juicy acidity and soft tannins. Score: 89/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Koch, Premium Kadarka 2017 – Hajós-Baja

Don’t let the score fool you, the Koch Premium Kadarka is a fantastic wine that can be found for under 5 Euros in Hungary. It has notes of strawberry, pepper, and earth. The finish is earthy and spicy. Another excellent vintage of this wine, which we buy often when in Hungary. Fantastic fruit for an inexpensive wine. Score: 88/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Koch, Vin Art Csanád Villányi Cuvée 2012 – Villány

Koch also produces several reserve wines including the Vin Art Csanád Villányi Cuvée which is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in oak for at least 18 months. This has a pretty nose with black cherry, violets, tobacco, cedar, and toast. Full in body with chalky tannins and a long finish. Score: 91/100 

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Kristinus, Kékfrankos Selection 2017 – Balatonboglár

The Kristinus Kékfrankos Selection is aged in oak for 14 months. It has notes of crunchy red fruit, fall leaves, pepper, and cedar. The wine is medium-bodied and silky on the mid-palate with a spicy finish. This is never overburdened by the oak and is food-friendly. Score: 91/100

• TR, Tokaji Dry Furmint 2017 – Tokaj-Hegyalja

The prices of dry Tokaji continues to rise, which makes the TR Tokaji Dry Furmint so appealing. TR is a young winery located in the village of Tállya. This wine has everything that I want in a dry Furmint, white pear flavors with intense mineral notes, combined with fiery acidity. Some of this wine was barrel-aged which builds up the body. For a wine that retails at around 10 Euros in Hungary, this is a steal. Score: 90/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Tornai, Top Selection Grófi Hárslevelü 2017 – Somló

Tornai is one of the big names in the tiny, volcanic region of Somló. The Tornai Top Selection Grófi Hárslevelü is in the top range of their portfolio. This is barrel fermented and half-dry with flavors of yellow peach, mineral, smoke, and white pepper. Like many wines from Somló, this is full-bodied with mineral notes and a powerful, long finish. The high acidity makes this feel like a completely dry wine. Score: 92/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Teleki, Villányi Franc ‘Kopar’ 2015 – Villány

Teleki is one of the oldest and largest producers in Villány, a red wine-producing region in the south of Hungary. The region is known for Cabernet Franc. The Teleki Villaányi Franc ‘Kopar’ is 100% Cabernet Franc from the esteemed Kopar vineyard. The wine has the typical notes of the grape, black cherry, olive, and capsicum with a touch of wood. It’s a full-bodied and dense Cabernet Franc with firm, but not overly drying tannins. Score: 90/100

• Csetvei, EA 2018 – Mór

Csetvei is a young producer in the tiny region of Mór. They specialize in the grape Ezerjo. The Csetvei EA (Ezerjo Amphora) is fermented and kept in amphora for 5 months without the skins. This is a clean and well-done amphora wine with notes of dried pear and pineapple. The wine is rich and chewy with a salty, complex finish. This is a producer we will be keeping our eyes on. Score: 92+/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Jackfall, Grand 2012 – Villány

Jackfall is a small producer in Villány and their Grand is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s rich with notes of graphite, black cherry, tobacco, capsicum. This is full-bodied with many layers of texture and Bordeaux-like flavors. The long finish is guided by chewy tannins. Score: 93/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Heimann, Barbar 2016 – Szekszárd

Heimann is one of the big names in Szekszárd and this is their flagship wine. The Heimann Barbar is made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat, and Kékfrankos. It has notes of capsicum, black cherry, chocolate, green herbs, and tobacco. This is full-bodied and rich with smooth, ripe tannins. Score: 91/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

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Thank you to hungarianwines.eu who provided accommodation and meals during my four days in Hungary. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Hungarian Wines Revisited appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Sepp Moser Zweigelt Reserve 2015

We welcome wines that catch us by surprise and the Sepp Moser Zweigelt Reserve 2015 is one of those examples. During a hot summer day at U Adama Wine Bar in Bratislava, Charine and I were patiently drinking through the 2015 vintage of natural wines from Morava (Czech Republic) and Slovakia. We were sweating through our shirts but enjoyed the refreshing white and orange (amber) wines that were served.

The bottle was revealed. We recognized the name but the grape didn’t excite us. Because of the heat, we were hardly interested in drinking a red wine. On top of that, most Zweigelt (a cross between St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch) we’ve tasted are simple, light, and unremarkable wines. Our job is to put preconceptions aside when it comes to wine, so we took a sip. My interest was piqued immediately.

The Sepp Moser Zweigelt Reserve 2015 is a refreshing red that is dangerously easy to drink.

Sepp Moser Zweigelt Reserve 2015 is aged for 20 months in used barriques (225L) and 300L barrels. It’s an outstanding Zweigelt, scratch that, it’s an outstanding medium-bodied red wine. It’s full of sour cherry, strawberry, cedar, and a fall leaf undertone. A touch of tannin from the barrel while feeling silky smooth on the palate with juicy acidity. It’s a fun wine to drink and a perfect companion with food.

The post Sepp Moser Zweigelt Reserve 2015 appeared first on Wine Travel.