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In the Spring of 2019, Charine and I were invited to the 8th Annual ‘Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival’ in Sofia, Bulgaria. The contest is open to wineries from all countries located in or around the Balkan Peninsula. In addition to the contest, this year featured a three-day, open-air festival where around 100 wine cellars poured over 1,000 wines.

Although we weren’t on the judging panel this year, we did participate in ] masterclasses, dinners, and the open-air festival. We cherished the opportunity to reconnect with the latest vintages from producers in countries like Serbia, Greece, and Turkey. It was also a great opportunity to get our first, in-depth taste of what’s happening in Bulgarian wine.

Bulgarian Wines: Our Impressions

We have a lot of experience with the wines of Eastern Europe. The countries that are our blind spots are Ukraine, Russia, and Bulgaria. This festival and competition was a fine opportunity for us to discover the wines of the latter. During the week, we tasted the medal-winning wines from the competition and examples from producers pouring at the festival. Here are a few quick thoughts:

The Good

• Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (both varietal and blends) showed correct flavors and high amounts of complexity
• There are several local red grapes that show promise including Rubin, Mavrud, Shiroka Melnishka (aka Shiroka Melnik), and Melnik 55 (a cross based on Shiroka Melnishka)
• There are fantastic wines at competitive prices compared to Western Europe

The Not So Good

• The five main international varieties still dominate (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot) which equate to many generic wines
• Many reds suffer from bad oak management

Best Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival

Top wines from Balkan countries can stand toe to toe with great wines from more renowned countries. There were some stunning wines at the festival. Greece had a strong showing as many iconic producers were represented. There were also a few familiar faces from Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, and Turkey. One of our favorite wines from Serbia captured the ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy (see below).

It is great to see that Bulgaria is an open market, with many wines from surrounding countries present – this isn’t always the case in the Balkans.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Greek Wines

• Kechris, ‘Tear of the Pine’ Retsina

This is from a producer that wanted to make a Burgundy-style Retsina. The Kechris Tear of the Pine Retsina is made from a selection of grapes and is barrel aged. It is full in body with notes of pine needles, basil, white peach, and lemon. It smells like Retsina but acts like a rich, full-bodied white on the palate. Resin flavors are there but the wine shows a lot of harmony on the palate. Score: 90/100 

• Biblia Chora, Olivos White 2018

We love the Biblia Chora Olivos White and this vintage is another knockout. It’s a barrel-fermented wine made of Assyrtiko and Semillon with lots of potential to age. Ripe white peach, apple, passion fruit, and yogurt make up the flavors. The wood is integrated flawlessly, it’s weighty on the palate and the acidity keeps the wine alive and nervy. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• Monemvasia, ‘300’ 2018

The Monemvasia ‘300’ is a blend of Kidonitsa and Assyrtiko aged in stainless steel. It’s a Mediterranean white wine with notes of yellow flower, sage, and white peach. The body is oily and similar to a Vermentino from Sardinia, Italy. With a round body and bite from the ripe fruit flavors, this has real palate presence. Score: 89/100

• Kir-Yianni, ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro 2013

We’ve been drinking the wines from Kir-Yianni for a long time. They do a great job with Xinomavro, a grape that we both love. This is not the current release, but it shows why Xinomavro is compared to Nebbiolo, especially Barolo. There are savory notes of tomato leaf and tobacco that go along with the red fruit and perfume. It’s medium-bodied with high acidity and grippy tannin and a long finish. If you love Barolo, it’s time to try an aged Xinomavro. Score: 92/100

Turkish Wine

• Arcadia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Brut 2015 – Turkey

We tasted the Arcardia, ‘Nareen Cuvée Michel Salgues’ Sparkling wine during a masterclass and it impressed us. The wine is aged on the lees for a whopping 30 months and made from the grape Narince. It’s unique and well made with notes of pine, pear, white peach, and brioche and a fine bead of bubbles. For a Brut sparkler, it is a little sweeter than expected with a persistent finish. Score: 90/100

• Chamlija, Kara Sevda 2017 – Turkey

Mustafa Chamlija won a prize as the top Turkish producer at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. At the festival, he brought his top Papaskarasi, the Chamlija Kara Sevda. This is a fine and elegant wine with more concentration than the standard Papaskarasi bottling. There are notes of raspberry, cherry, tobacco. It’s silky, juicy and serious with fine tannins. Score: 91/100

Montenegrin Wine

• Lipovac, Tammuz Amfora 2017 – Montenegro

Lipovac is a small Montenegrin winery that produces high-quality juice. A big part of their production is made in clay amphoras. The Lipovac Tammuz is a brand new wine in the portfolio. It’s made with Kratošija (Zinfandel) fermented and matured in amphora. For a grape that is normally jammy and brash grape, this wine is very elegant. It has a pretty nose with red fruits, violets, pepper. The peppery finish and fine tannins are impressive. Score: 90/100

Serbian Wine

• Matalj, ‘Kremen Kamen’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

The Matalj Kremen Kamen 2016 won the trophy of ‘Best of Show’ Red Wine Trophy at this year’s Balkans International Wine Contest. We’re fans of this wine in every vintage. The 2016 is another fine wine (although not quite at the level as the great 2012). This Cabernet Sauvignon has cherry, tobacco, and cedar notes. The fruit is ripe and the palate is round and complex with subtle power. Polished tannins guide the long finish. Score: 92/100

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Bulgarian Wine

• Château Copsa, ‘8TH’ Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Château Copsa is a boutique winery located in the Thracian Valley. The property and vineyards are heartbreakingly beautiful. The Château Copsa, ‘8TH Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the reserve wines from the estate.

It has notes of cherry, capsicum, cedar, and sweet cedar. This medium-bodied Bordeaux blend has fantastic barrel integration. The wood is used judiciously and the tannins are fine. Some may complain this wine doesn’t have a ‘sense of place’ but it’s delicious. Score: 90/100

• Edoardo Miroglio, ‘Elenovo’ Cabernet Franc 2016

Edoardo Miroglio is known for his sparkling wines and his reserve red wines named Elenovo. While we’re fans of the Elenovo Mavrud, Elenovo Rubin, Elenovo Cabernet Sauvignon, the Edoardo Miroglio Elenovo Cabernet Franc stole the show. It’s rich and ripe Cabernet Franc aged in oak for 24 months. It has the typical Cabernet Franc notes of cherry, black olive, oak, and capsicum. The wine is full in body with a silky mid-palate and grippy tannins. Think Chinon in a ripe year. Score: 90/100

• Orbelia, Sandanski Misket 2016

The Orbelia Sandanski Misket isn’t the greatest white wine in the world, but it’s a fine example of the Bulgarian grape Misket. This is a fantastic summer sipper. The wine is crisp and easy with notes of white flower, mineral, flint, and peach. For a grape that struggles to keep freshness, this has plenty of lemony acidity. It’s similar to a more floral Muscadet Sur Lie from France. Score: 88/100

• Zelanos, ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016

While Bulgaria has the reputation of producing wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon, we had several fantastic varietal Cabernet Francs at the show, including this Zelanos ‘Z’ Cabernet Franc 2016. The wine is aged in French oak for 10 months and has capsicum, black olive, cherry notes. Full and silky with grippy tannin. Score: 90/100

• Vinex Preslav, Rubyiat 2017

Yes, it’s another Chardonnay, but this Venix Preslav Rubiyat 2017 is the real deal. Vinex Preslav one of the oldest, quality-driven wineries in Bulgaria and this is one of their reserve wines, a barrel-fermented Chardonnay. It’s a big and buttery example. There are notes of pineapple, guava, and sweet vanilla. The wine is big-bodied, but not overly fat with a long finish. Fan of Napa Chardonnay can take note of this one. Score: 91/100

• Vila Melnik, ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik 2016

The Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Melnik 55 2014 was one of the first Bulgarian wines we ever tasted. That wine is solid in its own right, but we prefer the Villa Melnik ‘Aplauz’ Shiroka Melnik. This grape is the original Melnik which is a late-ripening grape (unlike the Melnik 55 which is a cross that ripens earlier). This wine has notes of wild strawberry, pepper, tobacco. It’s medium-bodied with some tannic kick and a spicy finish. I don’t have tons of experience with the grape but something about the acidity and tannins tell me this should age gracefully and drastically improve. Score: 89/100

• Ivo Varbanov, ‘Feux d’artifice’ Syrah 2011

Ivo Varbanov wasn’t at the festival, but I met him for dinner one night after the show. He brought this ‘Feux d’artifice Syrah 2011, which is a blockbuster. This Syrah spends 36 months in French oak – both in 225L and 500 L barrels. It has the typical notes of black fruit, tangerine peel, and pepper. Rich and muscular with tons of texture and extract, the wine is full-bodied with chewy tannin and a long finish. This is very similar to top-flight Syrahs from Washington State (USA). 92/100

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    Do you want to try Balkan wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Balkan wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Thanks to the Balkans International Wine Competition and Festival for accommodation. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Fine Wines From The Balkans International Wine Competition & Festival appeared first on Wine Travel.

When we made our seven-week trip through Turkey in the summer of 2015, we were green in the wine industry. What made the situation more challenging was the lack of online information about Turkish wine. The Turkish laws forbad advertising for alcoholic beverages, which included advertising on online domains. None of the Turkish wineries’ websites worked once we were in Turkey. One time we attempted to load a website of a winery, an odd and what seemed like a customised 404 error page appeared: there was a glass and some text in Turkish; the page was a dead end and the site was not navigable beyond that point. When we asked our guesthouse owner to translate the writing, he looked puzzled and said, “Our website is empty but the glasses will keep flowing.” We took a screenshot of the error page; you can see it below.

Back then, our focus was on the birthplace of wine and indigenous grapes, and because of that, we decided to skip the ‘internationalised’ and ‘touristic’ wine region of Thrace entirely and travel further south. That was a mistake. There are a handful of not only indigenous but also ancient wine grapes cultivated in the region, along with many high-quality wineries that are making vinous magic. One of the eminent producers there is Chamlija (pronounce: chahm-lee-zjah).

Book Trailer: Uncorking the Caucasus – Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia

Chamlija Winery (Thrace, Turkey)

Mustafa Camlica is the founder of Chamlija Winery and his daughter, Irem Camlica, is the designer of the psychedelic wine labels. The vineyards of Chamlija are on the Strandja Massif, with the Thrace basin to the south, Istanbul to the east, and the Black Sea to the north. This area of Thrace is near Bulgaria and experiences a continental climate but with temperature-moderating influences from the Black Sea, which is about 30 kilometers away. The soils consist of decomposed granite and limestone. Currently, the annual production at Chamlija is around 100,000 bottles, and the grapes are sourced from 85 hectares of certified sustainable estate vineyards. Many of the vines are young, so the vineyards are not producing at full capacity yet.

Chamlija’s Wines

A few months ago, we were invited by Hurol Emre Candan of Amarone D.O.O to taste Chamlija’s wines. Amarone DOO is a Turkish wine importer in Belgrade, Serbia, and Hurol is enthusiastically partial to Chamlija. He knew we had not tried Chamlija’s wines and offered to organize a private tasting for us at Vinoteka Beograd, which happened to be our favorite wine shop in Belgrade.

We tasted five wines that evening. All the wines performed above our expectations. What stood out to us the most was the healthy fruit. All the wines showed phenomenal phenolic ripeness. The wines tasted concentrated—a level of concentration that reminded us of Santa Barbara’s wines. A kind of sweetness without heaviness or residual sugar. Power without sloppiness. Ripeness with good acidity. There was no sign of green tannins and no sense of heavy-handed extraction. All the wines had intense aromas and vibrant flavors on the palate that lived up to the impressions set on the nose.

Watch: Turkish Wine by Chamlija Winery

Chamlija Wine Tasting

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Chamlija Narince 2014

When in Turkey, Narince (pronounce nah-reen-jeh) wines were always a default ‘safe’ choice for us. One whiff of this wine evokes many fond memories of our trip. The Chamlija Narince is made from grapes grown on decomposed granite. Two things about this wine’s flavor profile stand out to us immediately: citrus and mineral. The wine has an incredibly smooth and round mouthfeel with notes of slate, lime, orange, pine, green herbs, and nectarine.

Use this wine to impress your wine geeks friends.   3.8/5 

• Chamlija Quartz Fumé 2015

The Chamlija Quartz Fumé is 100% Sauvignon Blanc matured in French oak for 10 months.

This is called Quartz Fumé for good reason. It does smell like quartz, along with aromas of freshly baked vanilla cake, fresh green herbs, sweet citrus, apricot, peach, orange peel, and fish oil. The bouquet is distinct and reminds us of being in an orchard. Just beautiful aromas that you can imagine coming from a burning aromatherapy candle. The few days of cold maceration really shows in this wine; the good thing is that the palate follows up strongly with ripe fruit flavors supported by a firm acidic spine. The finish is zesty and spicy.

Offer this wine to that friend who says, “I don’t like Sauvignon Blanc.”   4.0/5

• Chamlija Papaskarasi 2015

Wine geek alert: Papaskarasi is an ancient variety that is indigenous to Thrace and has suspected DNA links to Prokupac, Kardarka, and Alba Imputotato.

The Chamlija Papaskarasi is a blend of 85% Papaskarasi and 15% of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. 15% of the grapes underwent whole-bunch fermentation in open-top vessels. The result is a low-alcohol (12% ABV), light red wine that shows notes of sour cherry, rhubarb, brown spice, white pepper, Mediterranean herbs, and violet. On the palate, it’s surprising tart and the spiciness lingers.

* Note: We weren’t particularly fond of this wine initially. But after 30 minutes of aeration, it became a charmer.

Drink it with some hard cheese.   4.0/5

• Chamlija Cabernet Franc 2014

For our palates, finding good varietal Cabernet Franc wines outside Loire (France) or Villány (Hungary) can be a challenge. This wine gets extra brownie points for being aligned with our preferences.

The Chamlija Cabernet Franc delivers flavors of sweet cherry, green capsicum, pencil shaving, and rose, plus a touch of earthy, soil-like note. It has a beautifully round and smooth mouthfeel with a good amount of density and lightly grippy tannins that hit the end-palate. We’re particularly impressed with the structure and persistent finish.

Share this with your winemaker-friends.   4.2/5

• Chamlija Thracian 2013

This is one of the top-tier wine in Chamlija’s portfolio. A blend of 47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, the Chamlija Thracian 2013 was aged for 20 months in French oak (80% new oak).

The bouquet expresses notes of ripe plum, blackcurrant, black cherry, black pepper, leather, and cigar box. The broad shoulders are supported by lushness on the palate. Quite an opulent wine with round tannins and a long finish. The Merlot really shows its strength in this wine. The oak still needs more time to settle down, but the fruit is standing up well to it even right now.

Have it as a nightcap.   4.0/5

What’s Next

After the tasting, we caught up with Mustafa Camlica on Facebook Messenger. He shared that, together with Bosphorus University, he is working on a program that aims to select “the best natural yeast derived from Strandja terroir”. We were thrilled to receive the update and look forward to tasting more Chamlija wines.

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Learn More About Turkish Wines

To learn more about the wines of Turkey, check out Uncorking the Caucasus. 
To purchase Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia,
please go to our Amazon page.

“Everyone who loves wine deserves to know its history.  This book offers amazing details of the cradle of modern wine and will inspire you to drink (and travel) outside the box.”

Madeline Puckette, ‎Co-Founder and Content Director, Wine Folly

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Chamlija: Wines of the Black Sea appeared first on Wine Travel.

Part of this article was originally published on Wine Folly. This article has been repurposed with their permission. This version of the article includes wine recommendations. The writing is done by Exotic Wine Travel and all images are produced by Wine Folly. 

Somewhere in what is today’s Transcaucasia, mankind planted a new chapter in history. There’s more to wine than Old World and New World; welcome to the Ancient World of wine.

Areni

“ah-reh-nee”
This red grape hails from a town of the same name in south Armenia. Its thick skin protects it from the summer sun and the harsh, high-elevation, continental climate. It makes red wine with medium ruby hue, fresh acidity, and soft tannins. Wines made from this grape can have sour cherry, herb, spice, and grassy flavors–which, at times, remind us of a cross between Pinot Noir and Sangiovese. The grape gained some international fame when Zorah Karasi, a varietal wine made from Areni, was featured in the list of Bloomberg’s Top Ten Wines of 2012.

Khndoghni

“khhhung-douh-nee”
The name Khndoghni is derived from the Armenian word “khind”, which means laughter. This is a native red wine variety from the controversial Nagorno-Karabakh area, which–depending on the source–is considered a region of Armenia, a separate nation, or a part of Azerbaijan. This grape has high tannins and offers interesting characteristics of black and blue fruits, cotton candy, and earth. Wines made from this grape have grippy tannins, precise structure, and exhibit aging potential. Khndoghni is usually aged in Caucasian oak barrels that are sourced from the same area.

Voskehat

“voh-ski-hut”
If Areni is the signature red grape of Armenia, then Voskehat is the poster child of Armenian white wine. Voskehat translates to “golden seed”. It is a hardy and thick-skinned grape that gets along well with the hot summer and bitterly cold winter of the high Armenian Plateau. Almost all the winemakers in Armenia who make a white wine use this grape, either in varietal wine form or in a blend. It makes smooth- and medium-bodied white wine with floral, savory, tropical fruit, and stone fruit notes. We have a recommendation for a Voskehat varietal wine in Voskevaz: A New Face in the Armenian Wine Scene.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Choice: Kataro Reserve 2013

A true product of Nagorno-Karabakh, also known as Artsakh. This wine is made from an indigenous variety called Khndoghni and is aged in local oak sourced from the same area. A dark, rich, and massively structured wine. It is more of an earthy (than fruity) wine with other flavors of black fruit, chocolate, and smoke. A unique and well-made wine; it has the stuffing to age very well and can be paired wonderfully with Khorovats (Armenian barbecue).

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Goruli Mtsvane

“go-roo-lee mahts-vah-nay”
This is a different variety from Mtsvane, which grows in almost every region in Georgia. Goruli Mtsvane means “green from Gori”, and Gori is a city in south-central Georgia. A late-ripening grape that oxidizes easily, only a few winemakers make wine from this rare variety. When made in the qvevri, it delivers one of the most interesting experiences in wine. Its high-toned aromas range from peach, lime, apricot, wildflower, pine, and nut. On the palate, the weighty body is reminiscent of a light red wine.

Rkatsiteli

“rah-kats-ee-teh-lee”
Rkatsiteli, whose name means “red stem,” is a ubiquitous white wine variety that comprises nearly half of Georgia’s vineyard plantings. It is a hardy and easy-to-grow grape as it is resistant to cold and maintains a high level of acidity and sugar as it ripens. It can be made into dry, semi-sweet, and fortified wines, and also brandy. This variety is treated in both the traditional Georgian qvevri-style with extended skin contact and conventional-style white wine technique. In the conventional style, it becomes a well-balanced, medium-bodied white wine with a touch of spice. When made in qvevri style, it takes on an amber tone, a forceful structure, and beautiful creaminess on the palate. What Chardonnay is for California, this grape is to Georgia. Check out Exotic Wine Travel’s 16 Wines Of 2016 for the tasting notes on Okro’s Wine Rkatsiteli 2010.

Saperavi

“sah-per-ra-vee “
Saperavi means “color/dye.” This is the most widely planted red wine variety in Georgia. Like Alicante Bouschet, it is teinturier with red flesh and red juice. This dark-skinned and dark-fleshed grape makes deep red, inky, and often opaque wine with heavy body and profound texture. Some wineries in the country label it as black wine instead of red. Due to the grape’s marked acidity and myriad characteristics of black fruit, licorice, chocolate, earth, smoked meat, tobacco, savory spice, and pepper, it is extremely versatile and can be made into rosé, dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and fortified wines. A dry red Saperavi wine resembles a mix between Blaufrankisch and Syrah. Check out our tasting notes for Artizani Saperavi, Lagvinari Saperavi, and Jakeli Saperavi.

Also, here’s an episode of Exotic Wine Travel where we tasted two of our favorite Saperavi wines, Khareba Saperavi Premium Gold 2010 and Kortavebis Marani Saperavi 2014, side by side.

Usakhelouri

“oosa-hello-oory”
Usakhelouri translates to “a grape with no name.” A native of western Georgia, this is an extremely low-yielding and rare variety that grows on the slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The total annual harvest is only a few tons. It is grown in a few small, remote villages and can be made into dry red or naturally semi-sweet wine with a high price tag. The wines made from this variety are aromatic and velvety, with vibrant acidity and light tannins. The flavors are red fruit, purple flower, mint, pepper, and forest floor. The semi-sweet wine made from Usakhelouri is a wonderfully complex wine that somehow reminds us of what Pinot Noir might taste like if it were made into a dessert wine.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Choice: Soliko Our Wine Goruli Mtsvane 2015

Made from the rare grape variety Goruli Mtsvane, this wine is fermented, macerated, and aged in traditional Georgian qvevri. The wine has flavors of orange peel, peach concentrate, and wild flowers, perked up by a slight tug from the tannins. A food-friendly, juicy wine.

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Boğazkere

“bow-ahz-keh-reh”
This grape is native to the Diyarbakir area in Southeast Turkey. It prefers to grow in a hot, dry climate, at high altitude. The name Boğazkere translates to “throat burner” – a possible reference to its strong tannins and medium acidity, which is reminiscent of Tannat. Boğazkere can be used as a blending grape and can also be made into a varietal wine. In varietal wine, it expresses notes of dark berry, pepper, dark chocolate, clove, eucalyptus, tobacco, and licorice. In our interview with Turkish wine maestro Burcak Desombre, she recommends the Kavaklidere Prestige as a fine example of this variety.

Emir

“eh-meer”
Native to and grown exclusively in the famous Cappadocia region of Turkey, this grape thrives in high altitude, volcanic soil, and diurnal temperature variation (hot during the day and cool at night). Its name translates to “lord/ruler,” as the wine made from Emir was once a popular choice at the local lords’ tables. It produces a smooth and crisp white wine with yellow-green hue. The flavor profile includes apple, yellow pear, pineapple, blood orange, kiwi, melon, and a touch of pine. Emir is often compared to Albarino and Pinot Grigio; while Sarah Abbot MW describes it as “a bit like Manseng but with more aromatics”.

Öküzgözü

“ur-kuz-gur-zuh”
This grape is native to the Elazig area in Eastern Turkey. It likes hot, dry summers, and cold winters, which matches up perfectly with the extreme continental climate of the Anatolian Plateau. The name means “ox eye,” which hints at its round and fleshy appearance. Öküzgözü has high acidity and floral aromas. On the palate, it leans towards raspberry, plum, pomegranate, brown spice, and earthy flavors. The high acidity is what stands out the most in this grape. It is often blended with Boğazkere for added structure. On its own, it makes some memorable, fruit-forward wines.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Choice: Kayra, Buzbag Bölge Serisi Elazig, Öküzgözü, 2012

This is a juicy, balanced, and delicious Turkish wine made from the indigenous variety Öküzgözü. If you are looking for a red wine that’s bright, fruity and without pretense, then this is a wine for you. This is produced by a big producer called Kayra who has many vineyards in eastern Turkey. The flavors are of sour cherry, fruit punch, and earth, with nice tanginess and smooth tannins. It goes extremely well Turkish grilled meat dishes.

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For a listing of articles and videos on Armenian, Georgian, and Turkish wines and wine travel in the Caucasus Region, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of the book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to this Amazon product page. 

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Sarah Abbott is a Master of Wine who comes from a food-loving family. After working in the IT software industry for several years, she decided to change her career trajectory and immerse in wine in 1996. Her first foray into wine was as a sales and marketing representative at an importing company of domaine-bottled Burgundy. She describes the pay as meager but she “drank like a stockbroker”.

After working with many inspiring people in the wine world and encouraged by them to further her expertise, Sarah enrolled in the Masters of Wine program. In 2008, she earned the academic title MW and off she went with following her heart and working her tail off. She founded Swirl, a wine education and events company that works with customers of different levels — from end-consumers, to corporate clients, importers, and producers. Regardless the setup, her goals are to empower consumers, celebrate the stories of wine, and harness the power of wine to unite people.

Conversation with Sarah Abbott, Master of Wine
& Champion for Lesser-known Wine Regions

• What is the difference between a Master Sommelier (MS) and a Master of Wine (MW)? 

They are two different exams run and awarded by two different organisations. Both require the highest levels of wine knowledge and insight, but they have different emphases and the style of exam is different too. Master Sommeliers have demonstrated their ability and excellence with wine in an on-trade environment. That means verbally showing their knowledge, and displaying physical skill and dexterity when it comes to actually serving wine. The MW exam is all written, there’s no spoken element, and I suppose it’s more theoretical. The syllabus for MW is broader. We don’t go into the depth of wine service that MS does.

• What’s the most valuable lesson you have learned as a Master of Wine?

Cultivate cheerful humility and relentless curiosity. Get organised. Allow yourself to be helped. Be ready to help others. Being a Master of Wine isn’t about proving how great you are. Rather, it is about surrendering yourself to understanding a natural and cultural way in which the world is expressed. During the course of my study, I’ve received first-hand experience of depending on those who came before me, the generosity of producers, and my fellow classmates.

• What does wine mean to you?

Wine is an ambassador for civilisation. It is a symbol of hope, stability, and cultural refinement. More importantly, it represents hospitality and togetherness. It’s a way of understanding our beautiful world. Wine is a way of connecting with friends, soon-to-be friends, and humanity. And it’s really great fun to drink.

• That’s a beautiful way to put it. It’s one of the many reasons why we always enjoy talking to you: we can feel the romance and tenderness in your words. But how do you keep your love for wine from becoming too technical and work related? Is it challenging to have what’s predominantly a hobby and passion to most people as your everyday work?

No, I’m inherently frivolous so keeping fun in my work is really easy for me. I did have ‘if a job’s worth doing it’s worth doing well’ drummed into me as a kid. I’m very lucky to be working with something I love and find so endlessly interesting.

• You’re known to champion lesser-known wine regions. When we traveled through Georgia and Turkey, many winemakers spoke fondly of you. So let’s talk about Turkish wine. Can you tell us a few of your favourite Turkish grape varieties and how they perform next to international, well-known grapes?

Öküzgözü is great fun. It is fleshy, sumptuous, and aromatic. It reminds me a bit of Syrah, but with the aromatics and lift of Sangiovese. Bogazkere is a moody but potentially great variety. I guess you could compare it to Tannat or Nebbiolo because of its tannic structure. But the fruit is darker and less floral. Kalecik Karası is a gorgeously alluring red wine grape. Some people compare it to Pinot Noir, but if so it’s like Pinot Noir on holiday –  very relaxed and not at all neurotic. Narince is like what Pinot Grigio would be if it was more interesting – delicate and sneakily aromatic. Emir is steely – a bit like Manseng but with more aromatics. Sultaniye is really good fun and very drinkable – reminds me of good Pinot Blanc, which I think is a variety much underestimated for uncomplicated pleasure.

• Yes, we are fans of those grapes that you mentioned. There are many distinguished Turkish wine grapes that show a lot of potential. What would you like wine lovers to think or feel when they drink Turkish wine?

Be open, be bold, be hopeful.

• Let’s move on to Georgian wine and specifically, Georgian wine made in the qvevri. What do wine lovers need to know and how can they enjoy it?

Qvevri is one of the oldest winemaking methods in the world, but in Georgia it is an unbroken tradition that exists in both traditional and modern forms. Qvevri are buried clay vessels in which freshly harvested grape bunches are placed and then fermented. Qvevri solve a lot of winemaking problems, so are popular among producers who favour a ‘less is more’ approach when it comes to intervention and additions.

Grapes getting fermented in a buried qvevri at the Pheasant’s Tears winery in Georgia.

• What is the next stage for you? What ambition do you have for your own development and for these lesser-known wine regions that you work with? 

I want to continue to help lesser known and underestimated wines secure their future and find their market. I know that sometimes ‘selling’ is seen as something that is less poetic than the creation of the wines or the tradition of these unique varieties and places. But nothing happens until something is sold. We need to match these quirky, beautiful wines with people who love them and are delighted to buy them. That’s how we keep this sort of wine biodiversity, and link to the past, and give to the future. And create memories. Life is short, and we’re here to enjoy it.

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Trendsetter: Oliver Gareis From Amadeus Winery, Turkey

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Bozcaada is a tiny Aegean island off the coast of Turkey. It used to belong to Greece and was known as Tenedos. Tenedos is reputed to be the hiding place for the Greek ships in the famous battle for Troy, which happened on the Turkish mainland about five kilometers away.

Bozcaada has always been covered in grapevines. The Greeks understood the magical alchemy for grape growing and tended the vines on the island to make copious amounts of wine that fueled their wild parties dedicated to Dionysus. The island sits in front of the point where the Sea of Marmara empties into the Aegean Sea. It is always windy on the island, and these crosswinds between the two seas seem to magically tend the vines and offer the most pleasant wine tourism experience. The locals love Bozcaada because they say it feels like a big sailboat in the middle of the sea and it never stays still.

Some of our favorite memories in Turkey are made while riding scooters around the island, from winery to winery, and then beach to beach. The pleasant Mediterranean climate flatters the inconspicuous beaches and crystal-clear seawater. The center of the island is lined with rows and rows of vineyards covering the gently rolling hills. The overall atmosphere in Bozcaada is ethereal, and exploring Bozcaada feels like falling into a dream. In 2012, Katie Parla of The New York Times wrote an article entitled On a Turkish Isle, Winds Tend the Vines which paints a magnificent picture of this place.

The post Fine Turkish White Wine from Bozcaada appeared first on Wine Travel.

For a listing of articles and videos on Turkish wine and other wines from the Caucasus region, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of the book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to this Amazon product page.

Burcak Desombre is the founder of Vinipedia Wine Consultancy, a leading wine educator in Turkey, and an expert on Turkish wine. She is a sought-after resource in the wine industry because of her knowledge and passion.

We got a chance to speak with Burcak
and gather her insight into the Turkish wine industry.

• How did you get into wine?

When I was growing up, my father had always allowed me to taste a little wine at dinner. So I was tasting wine for a long time without really knowing much about it. When I turned 19 years old, I went to France for university and naturally became more acquainted with wine there.

In 2006, I returned to Turkey and after a few jobs, I became a brand manager for the biggest wine importer in the country. From there, my love of wine flourished. Later, I embarked on the WSET education and became the first woman to compete in the Turkish Sommelier competition where I finished second. Following that, I represented Turkey in the Young Sommelier Competition. And finally, I decided to start my own business.

I was the first person living in Turkey to get the “Certified Sommelier” title from Court of Master Sommeliers. From that point, I began to introduce myself as a wine educator and wine consultant, but people often asked if I was working at one of the big companies. It was a foreign concept that I could be an independent wine consultant or have my own wine business.

I am currently in London, undergoing the WSET Diploma education.

• Tell us about the Turkish wine industry. What are the major changes you’ve seen in the past years?

Ten years ago, there were very few choices for wine lovers–they were limited by a few bulk wines made by big producers. Even the selection of imported wines was poor because it was done by a monopoly. By the beginning of the 2000’s, the law changed, which allowed boutique wineries to open. Before that, a winery must produce 1,000,000 liters per year to legally operate. The monopoly on imported wine was also privatized and some inexpensive foreign wines started to reach the supermarket shelves.

At the same time, many private investments went into the Thrace and Aegean regions to start wineries. Around 2005 to 2007, the first vintages started to hit the market. They were mostly oaky, wannabe-wines, but at least there was something there. Soon after, in 2009, several major wine personalities started to come to Turkey, like Jancis Robinson and other big names. Most of them picked up and commented on the high level of oak influence in the wines.

Those first few batches of wines from boutique wineries may be too oaky, but over time the new vintages gained more elegance; and as the vineyards became older, the age also added complexity to the wines. Between 2009 and 2013, there was a short golden age for boutique Turkish wines. All that changed in 2013 when new laws were passed and made marketing and branding wines in Turkey impossible. Tasting within wineries is illegal, so a few wineries have opened up cafes or boutique hotels where their wines can be served.

• Which wine regions does your business focus on?

There are two parts to my business. One is working with professionals. For example, I offer consulting services to duty-free shops and foreign wine professionals who are interested in Turkey. I also work with hotels and restaurants on their wine lists and staff training. The other branch of my business is dealing with the end-consumers. I feel that if I have to say I specialize in any specific Turkish wine area, it would be Thrace. This is because of its proximity to Istanbul, the considerable investment that has gone into this area, the boutique winery movement, and the established wine route. Thrace is the first region in Turkey to commit to wine tourism.

Thrace is very interesting because it isn’t as warm as the Aegean coast. The local grape varieties have been neglected for a long time ago and very few wineries are attempting to revive them. Most of the wine production in Thrace is centered on international varieties, which are thriving because of the maritime influence. I am really excited about the Shiraz produced there. There are also a few promising Pinot Noir trials.

Thrace is a big wine-producing region with many wineries and enotourism opportunities. Just recently, I organized a local competition for Thrace wines and 16 producers submitted their wines. There are many more producers than that. Many of them are second- and third- generation producers who are making table wines for the locals; you need to know someone–a local contact–to find them. Many wineries have also opened boutique hotels and restaurants, so there are many possibilities for tourism.

Again, Thrace’s proximity to Istanbul is very convenient, because you can do day trips to the wineries.

• What are the challenges in promoting Turkish wine?

Within Turkey, it is so difficult to capture the end-consumers. There are not many good, specialty wine shops; generally, people are not very educated about wine and there are not many places that offer proper information. The situation is improving with the Kayra Academy offering WSET education, but it’s one of the few places that do this.

While the country is seemingly leaning towards becoming more conservative, it has not affected open-minded people who want to taste and know more about wine.

The laws hinder advertising, so boutique producers really have to work hard to promote their wines. Many people have turned to private dinners where they get a chance to taste different wines over the course of a meal. Small wine producers love this concept and are willing to offer samples because it is one of the few ways that they can gain exposure. I see a rise of young professionals in Turkey who want to take the WSET courses, want to organize private dinners, and want to try more wine. This is very encouraging.

• What can Turkey offer wine lovers that no other wine countries can?

It’s the history; for that we need to focus on eastern Turkey. It is a difficult area to travel in but can be very rewarding at the same time. In that part of the country, there are old and beautiful vineyards, odd pruning systems that can still be found today, and a lot of land work is still done with animals. This is an area for the true romantics.

Coming back to Thrace and the Aegean coast, both areas are located next to large, vibrant cities like Istanbul and Izmir. Istanbul needs no further promotion but we should not forget about Izmir, which is beautiful and rich in history. Having wine regions that are close enough for day trips from both cities is a huge plus for wine tourism.

• What advice would you offer to wine lovers who want to explore Turkey and its wine?

There is an absolute need for local contacts. In many regions, anyone coming independently would not be able to find the wineries and vineyards. Even for myself, I would want a local contact when traveling through eastern Turkey. All the best wines of Turkey are off the beaten path–take Cappadocia for instance, it is a wine-producing area and sees a high volume of tourism; it is very beautiful but most visitors are drinking bad wines.

• In your opinion, which indigenous varieties of Turkey are the most promising?

More than the boutique wineries, the big producers are working hard to revive the local varieties. Öküzgözü and Boğazkere show a lot of promise. Boğazkere is a somewhat rustic grape but there are some excellent examples like the Kavaklidere Prestige. Kayra Winery does a good job with Öküzgözü and they produce it in many different styles. Kalecik Karası is a problematic grape that can be done well, but many producers use it to make simple, fruity, Beaujolais Nouveau-style wines. I also enjoy the grape Narince as a young and fresh white wine.

• In your opinion, what does Turkey need to do to distinguish itself as a wine-producing country?

I think we need to focus more on the local varieties and if needed, blend them with international varieties; this will make it easier to enter new markets. We also need to focus more on Asian markets because Europe has the idea that Turkey is a Muslim country and does not produce wine. Asia does not have these preconceptions and the demand for wine there keeps increasing.

Unfortunately, today, Turkey is not known as a wine-producing country. Our wines are relatively expensive due to the need to import all the raw materials with the exception of the grapes. Because of this, wineries should focus on building a collective brand for Turkish wine, and not just focus on their own winery’s branding. The Turkish wine industry, while rich in history, is too young to rely on one or two brands. We should all work together, work better collectively, which is happening more often now after the new alcohol laws have been passed.

We also need more brand ambassadors, not just big names, but people that travel and have a broad perspective. We need people to tell the story of Turkish wine.

Excerpt from Uncorking the Caucasus

About Boğazkere

(pronounce bow-ahz-ke-re)  This red wine variety is native to the Diyarbakir area of southeastern Turkey. Based on geography, this may be one of the first varieties used in winemaking. It prefers hot, dry climates at high altitudes. The name Boğazkere translates to “throat burner”, which is probably in reference to its strong tannins. It is typically made into a full-bodied wine with medium acidity. Its flavor profile includes dark berry, pepper, dark chocolate, and licorice. We found this variety mostly in the areas of Elazığ, Cappadocia, and Pamukkale in the Aegean Region. It is used as a blending grape, as well as in varietal wine.

The post Trendsetter: Burcak Desombre, Turkish Wine Maestro appeared first on Wine Travel.

For a listing of articles and videos on Turkish wines and wine travel in Turkey, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to our Amazon product page.

Bozcaada is one of a handful of islands in the Aegean Sea that Turkey can call its own. It sits in front of the point where the Sea of Marmara empties into the Aegean Sea, and it is always windy on the island. These crosswinds between the two seas seem to magically tend the vines and offer the most pleasant enotourism experience in Turkey. The locals love Bozcaada because they say it feels like a big sailboat in the middle of the sea and it never stays still.

While traveling on the island of Bozcaada, we heard so many comments about its viniculture’s history. After our first wine-tasting session, we couldn’t comprehend, more than ever, what all the fuss was about. We wanted so much to right our wrong that the desire became a mission. With Turkey’s alcohol laws and teetotalism, it was an uphill task to connect with the winemakers. So it was an honor—and a rare opportunity to learn more about the inside stories of Turkey’s wine scene—when we finally met…

Oliver Gareis, the proprietor and winemaker at Amadeus.

At Amadeus Winery, Oliver Gareis shares the obstacles to wine production in Turkey.

• Can you share with us the story of Amadeus Winery?

We are originally from Austria. My family had a summer house on the Asian side of Istanbul and there was an old monastery near our place. My father was always interested in alcohol production and he guessed that if there was a monastery, there must be wine production in the vicinity.

We started out by buying grapes and experimenting in the winery, but that was not very successful. We started with white grapes that made poor wine with a metallic taste. Well, it’s poor wine in many people’s opinions, but when you’re the winemaker, it is never a bad wine because of all the work you’ve put into it. We sold that parcel of property and about 20 years ago, we bought a plot of land on the island of Bozcaada.

The wines on Bozcaada were very bad at that time and my father was not satisfied. He was talking about it with his friends and one of them suggested that he experiment with Cabernet Sauvignon. We planted the first Cabernet vines and they were the first of its kind on the island. Everybody laughed at us at first. They told us we don’t need Cabernet Sauvignon; we already have Kuntra (an indigenous red grape). Later, a large company approached us and bought our Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. After that, many people took our vines and grafted them with local rootstock, and Cabernet Sauvignon flourished on the island. We bought more vineyards and planted other grape varieties, including Syrah, and started making our own wine, which we felt was better than others on the island. The problem was we couldn’t sell the wine commercially because we didn’t have the proper documentation. We had to buy a different piece of land just to get proper documentation for making commercial wine and building a small winery. It took eight years from when we bought the land until we had the proper documentation to produce wine.

In 2010, Amadeus had its first release run of about 10,000 bottles. Currently, we are producing between 30,000 and 35,000 bottles every year. We have about four hectares of our own vineyards and we purchase more grapes to make wine and sometimes also sell some of our grapes.

• Tell us more about your winemaking experience in Turkey.

With all the laws in Turkey, winemaking here is difficult. What keeps us alive is the passion for the island and for the grapes it produces.

After a while, I got tired of living in the city and dealing with the traffic. Moving out here frees up more time, and winemaking takes a lot of time. The grapes are like your kids. You try to get them in the perfect condition to prepare them for the winemaking process. Sometimes you make mistakes but you always strive to do better.

There are many things that are inhibiting the wine industry in Turkey. At first, the country did not allow importing of international wine. Then, that opened up but the first rounds of bottles were cheap wines that were selling at unreasonably expensive prices. Because of the lack of quality, consumers were ill-informed and the domestic wine industry was basically sleeping—they were producing but not looking at what they produced. However, this is slowly but certainly changing in Turkey.

As the quantity of imported wine increased, new boutique wineries started popping up all over Turkey. I don’t know the exact number but I’d guess it’s about 300 small wineries. Most of these winemakers are trying to make high-quality wine as a hobby. Cost is not the main concern. If you look only at the costs of making wine, especially in Turkey, it is an uphill climb. That leads us to the second big problem: the taxes. If you look at my wine, one-third of the wholesale price goes to taxes. This really handcuffs the winemakers here.

The next problem is brand recognition. In my opinion, it takes at least 25 years to brand a wine country. Look at Australian wine, the industry and its reputation did not come overnight. It takes a lot of effort and support in unison, especially for a country like Turkey, which is not known for wine production and wine culture.

Another problem is with some of the all-inclusive resorts on the south part of Turkey. These places are serving the cheapest wines to exclusive customers. In the restaurants, they are marking up the wine by three times, four times, and even more. This is a huge problem. Wine needs to be good quality with an accessible price. A Turkish wine should not be selling for the same price as, say, a Petrus. Both are different, perhaps in 20 years they could be the same but not now.

• Why is Bozcaada so magical for grape growing?

There is a consistent climate on the island of Bozcaada. Like all places in the world, there are small fluctuations in the weather but we have a generally dependable climate here. During summer, the daytime temperature is between 30 to 33 degrees Celsius with about a 10-degree difference between day and night, and there is a constant northern wind blowing through. From May to September, there are very few rainy days, perhaps one or two. We are fortunate to have this weather. The important thing in the grape-growing process is: just don’t screw up.

This is important because to make good wine, you need great grapes. For me, it is all about making good wine, whether it is from local or international varieties. When I open a bottle of wine, I want my company and myself to enjoy it.

Bozcaada is a small wine region and the focus is on red wine varieties. Right now, a lot of vineyard areas are still dedicated to table grape production. There are six wineries here at the moment, ranging from low- to high- quality wine, and from cheap to expensive. There are no two wineries that are somewhat the same on this island, yet we are overlapping each other in some ways. There is a lot of potential here.

Outside Bozcaada, there is a lot of potential in Central Anatolia for white wine production. It is higher in elevation with cold nights and warm days, similar to my home country Austria. This is the one area, in my opinion, that has greater room for higher-quality wine in Turkey.

• What does the future look like for Turkish Wine?

The good news is that wine quality in Turkey is improving. This is where smaller wineries play a pertinent role because they are more flexible in committing to trials and experiments. That is what we are doing at Amadeus—taking good wine and trying to make it better. The wine industry in Turkey will improve, but it will take time.

It all comes down to winemakers making their own style of wine. For example, my taste is towards fruity, acidic, and minerally white wines like Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Of course, it would be foolish to try and make wine of that profile on the island of Bozcaada because the climate is different. However, by understanding my own preferences, I can create a vision for the wines I want to create. This is important for winemakers.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S CHOICE: TURKISH RED WINE

Amadeus, Zinfandel, 2011

While many of Amadeus’s reds are pleasurable, this varietal wine made from Zinfandel stands out the most to us. It has beautiful, rich fruit flavors. It isn’t as big as a Californian Zinfandel and is more similar to a Primitivo (which is the same grape as Zinfandel) from Apulia, Italy. This Zinfandel stands out distinctively with its slight salinity, a common characteristic found in a lot of wines from Bozcaada. Note that the Cuvée Rouge is the bestseller of Amadeus winery. Oliver also makes a Shiraz and a Cabernet Sauvignon.

You May Also Enjoy:
A Brief History of Wines from the Caucasus
Trendsetter: Burcak Desombre, Turkish Wine Maestro
To read more about Bozcaada,  the up-and-coming wine destination in Turkey, check out this article by The New York Times featuring Hermann Gareis, Oliver’s father and the founder of Amadeus.

Check out our tasting video on Acikara, a rare wine grape from Turkey:

The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

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