“Are you making low alcohol wines because you like them, or is it because it’s what consumers are looking for these days? “

Dirk Niepoort looked at me in the eye for a second before replying, “when it comes to these wines, I don’t give a s@#!t about what the consumer thinks.”

Dirk joined his family company in 1987. From Niepoort’s inception to that point, it was focused as a Port shipper. Dirk spearheaded the company’s transformation and foray into table wines. Today, Niepoort produces a wide range of Port wines and table wines in seemingly every region in Portugal.

Niepoort Vinhos

When Dirk joined Niepoort in 1987, his goal was to make great table wines. His first project was a wine called ‘Robustus’, which was released in 1990 followed by the ‘Redoma’ which was first released a year later. I’ll never forget my first taste of the former, which is anything but robust. Recent vintages have so much ripeness and fruit without being jammy or high in alcohol. The last vintage that I tasted clocked in at 12.2% ABV.

A wine geek at heart, Dirk is one of the most respected winemakers in all of Portugal. I first met him last year at the Douro Boys Auction 2019. After sharing several meals with him, his passion for wine became even more evident. As a Burgundy nut, Dirk crafts wines that he wants to drink.

Niepoort produces wines all over Portugal and collaborates with other winemakers on other projects labeled as Niepoort Projectos. Niepoort reds in places like the Douro, the Dão, and Bairrada show that the region can do more than just concentration and power. Niepoort’s examples are focused on finesse and elegance. They are dare I say, Burgundian.

When my friend first told me about these low alcohol wines (especially from the Douro), I was skeptical. After tasting the wines, I’m a believer. Better yet, these wines are found around the world at fair prices. Wine geeks need to seek these out.

• Fio, ‘Fio’ Riesling 2015 – Mosel, Germany

This is a project collaboration between two young guys and Dirk in the Mosel. It’s a traditional style Riesling that is aged in large casks for two years. Gorgeous nose of baked apple, slate, apricot, and white pepper. There’s plenty of richness and fruit here with perfectly integrated oak. The mineral finish caps off a real winner. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Nat Cool Branco 2019 – Vinho Verde

This is made in old school way of Vinho Verde, bottled with a touch of residual sugar so the wine would re-ferment and have some soft bubbles. It’s a blend of many grapes like Azal, Arinto, Avesso, Trajadura, and Loureiro. This wine has some sediment and cloudiness. Notes of the sea, along with beer yeast, lemon, and grass. Surprisingly fuller in body for a Vinho Verde than I would expect. Spritzy bubbles and lively, fun wine. Buyer beware, some people might think this smells too sulfurous and too much like eggs on the first whiff. You need context before getting served this wine. After a few days in the fridge, it shed its funkiness and what was left is a delicious, minerally white.  Score: 89/100

• Niepoort, Redoma Tinto 2018 – Douro

The Niepoort, Redoma Tinto is one of the staples in Dirk’s portfolio. It’s a field blend including grapes like Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cão, and Tinta Roriz. It’s aged in old oak for 22 months. Even though it’s young there are notes of leather along with sweet red cherry, blueberry, and some mineral tones. Excellent fruit concentration for a wine that is only 12.5% abv. It’s almost like a dense Pinot Noir. The palate is sensual with many layers and fine-grained tannins. Brilliant stuff. Score: 93+/100 

• Niepoort, Concisco 2014 – Dão

This is a field blend made from vines up to 100 years in age. Most of the varieties in the field are Baga and Jaen (Mencia). It’s aged in cask for 20 months. Like a red Burgundy with notes of red forest fruits, forest floor, leather, and pepper. Very complex and rich smelling for a poor vintage and a low alcoholic wine. The fruit is concentrated enough on the front end while the acidity stretches out the finish. Tannins are still a little chewy, which would allow this wine to age well. Very good for a tough vintage. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Bastardo 2018 – Douro

This grape is known as Trousseau in France. This is aged for 20 months in French oak. Very light in color for a red. Notes of fresh cut strawberry, raspberry, flint, white flower, and a touch of muskiness. Delicate and lighter on the palate with plenty of red fruit notes, vibrant acidity, and surprisingly chewy tannins. It reminds me of Nerello Mascalese from Etna. This is fresh and fun but I bet it could really start to soar after time in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Niepoort, Poerinho Baga 2014 – Bairrada

Made from vines of Baga that are over 100 years old. Aged for 20 months in large vats. At only 11% ABV, this really smells like a Burgundy. Savory with notes of leather, sour cherry, stems, and earth. The nose gives way to plenty of Old World notes. Medium-bodied, this doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that Baga can have. High acidity and a juicy finish. This is a wonderful effort for a tough vintage. Score: 91/100

*I talk about this bottle at 2:59 in the video below.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

You might also enjoy:

Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort: Low Alcohol Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Wines made in small clay pots?

In the Fall of 2019, the Wines of Alentejo took me through a one-week jaunt of cellars in this part of Portugal. During the trip, I visited a number of producers who are making wines in clay vessels. Portugal is home to the only appellation in the world dedicated to this technique, known as Vinho de Talha DOC. A year after my first trip to the region, I bumped into a producer of Vinho de Talha that really caught my attention.

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel is a small project by childhood friends Daniel Parreira and Ricardo Santos. There are 26 amphorae (talhas) in the cellar, hence the name XXVI Talhas. Mestre Daniel is the name of Daniel’s grandfather, who was the original owner of the cellar.

The Vinho de Talhas from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are my favorite wines from the appellation. They produce small batches of wine and even single Talha wines (wines coming from a single amphora, like a barrel selection). XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel also produces a line of fresher wines made in small clay pots (no larger than 300 liters). This small pot is called a ‘tareco’.

“We make the ‘do tareco’ wines because we try to do a style as close as possible to the wine we start drinking just after Saint Martin day (11 November),” Ricardo tells me. “All the small producers are waiting for that special day to have their winery full of people,” he continues.

“We bottled the 2020 tareco wines just after 11 November, they are young and fresh, almost like the wine taken from the traditional talhas. The grapes are the same as our Vinho de Talha line but there is maceration time.”

Do Tareco

Do Tareco translates to “from clay pots” and are bottled immediately after Saint Martin’s day. It’s a day dedicated to feasting and drinking fresh wine. I was skeptical before trying the XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco wines. My assumption was that the wines would be too angular, lacking both complexity and drinkability.

Thank goodness, I was wrong. In this style, the Do Tareco wines are stellar. All three wines brim with texture and charisma. Scrap the Beaujolais Noveaux and give these wines a try. Wines made in clay vessels are all the rage these days and these bottles from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are examples done right.

Wine Recommendations:

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco is a blend of Perrum, Manteúd, Larião, Diagalves, Roupeiro, and Antão Vaz macerated for two months in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a beautiful, pure white wine with notes of pineapple, chalk, white peach, and guava. The nose has the sensation of dried fruit while it has more dried fruit flavors in the mouth. Tannins are a little chewy here. This is a Vinho de Talha (Alentejan amphora wines) in it’s purest form. I’m a big fan. Score: 90/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco 2020

Palhete is traditionally a blend of grapes left over from the harvest, both white and red. The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco is basically a deeper rosé that was fermented in small clay pots (tareco). All of the grapes for this wine are harvested and fermented together. Notes of raspberry, cherry, and earthy clay. This is more of a light red with some tannin to it. Bright acidity that cuts through the palate. This is delicious and has the ability to pair with a number of different foods. Essentially, it’s an extreme natural wine in style but those who like conventional wines will find a lot to like here. Score: 90+/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco is a blend of Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, and Tinta Grossa fermented in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a fresh red with notes of sour cherry, raspberry, pepper, and mineral notes. Juicy and fruit-forward with a small amount of tannin and a long finish. The acidity here is beautiful for Alentejo (which is a hot region). Drink this on the chilled side. Fans of Cru Beaujolais will find a lot to like here. Score: 91/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Check Out These & Other Portuguese Natural Wines

You can pick up XXVI Talhas and other Portuguese natural wines at Real Portuguese Wine. Use our discount code and get 10% off. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, you get a discount, and help support our work.

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XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco appeared first on Wine Travel.

I liked Nicola Thornton within five seconds of chatting with her.

The wine industry can be tough. Selling wine in this climate is challenging with so many restaurants closed. Writing about wine can be even tougher thanks to shrinking budgets and limited paying outlets. It’s easy to find people that are beaten down. Meeting optimistic people feels like a breath of fresh air.

That’s exactly the type of person that Nicola is. She left the UK and fell in love with sunny Spain. After years of working in cooperatives and private wineries, she founded the Spanish Palate in 2016. Her team looks after several small producers and helps them market and export to over 40 countries worldwide.

From our first call to tasting the wines, I was impressed with her energy and enthusiasm. Her lineup of wines named “Spanish Palate Creations” is inspiring. They consist of two lines. The Botas de Barro (muddy boots) lineup are wines that see a little oak aging, while the Mi Tractor Azul (my blue tractor) wines are fresh and fruity. Nicola and her team designed the labels and market them as inexpensive wines that overdeliver in their price points.

These wines are produced by cooperatives in different regions of Spain that work with old vines. “The idea of the cooperative is perfect (to me), you get all of the small farmers pulling their resources together to defend a dignified way to live,” Nicola says. “It gives these guys power in numbers.”

I think all of the wines in the Spanish Palate Creations line are good to very good. These are the types of wines that will be fine house pours in restaurants around the world. Purchasing a bottle also helps bring communities together and supports the little guy.

Wine Recommendations:

Spanish Palate Creations

• Botas de Barro, Old Vine Garnacha Almansa 2017

The Botas de Barro, Old Vine Garnacha Almansa is my favorite wine in the Spanish Palate creations. This has a wonderful, complex nose with notes of strawberry, black raspberry, parched earth, meat, and pepper. There’s plenty of fruit here with a hint of complexity. There is meatiness and earthiness on the palate and the tannins are supple and ripe. It doesn’t have great length but it is very fun and pleasurable to drink. Score: 88+/100

• Botas de Barro, Toro 2018

The Botas de Barro, Toro is Tempranillo aged for 5 months in oak. This is a nice, slimmer Toro. There’s complexity here for such a young wine. Notes of cherry, raspberry, pepper, and earth. There’s a pleasant streak of tangy acidity on the mid-palate. Tannins are chewy but not overly drying. Very good, entry-level Toro. Score: 87/100

• Mi Tractor Azul, Garnacha Tintorera 2017

Mi Tractor Azul, Garnacha Tintorera is Alicante Bouchet unoaked. Very dark wine. There are notes of raspberry, violets, cherry, pepper, and stems. It’s full-bodied and generous on the palate with some bright acidity. The wine is fruity and big but there’s a slight green streak to it, which I like a lot. A delicious bistro red with some tannins. Score: 87/100

• Mi Tractor Azul, Toro 2018

The Mi Tractor Azul, Toro is made from 100% Tempranillo that doesn’t see oak. Shows decent complexity for an unoaked wine. Notes of black cherry, cassis, and pepper. Fruity and easy-going with low level of tannins. This is a young wine but the spike of flavor on the mid-palate is surprising. It’s not built to go the distance but another year in the bottle would do it wonders. Score: 87/100

• La Baldosa. Macabeo 2019

The La Baldosa, Macabeo is from the Manchuela DO. This is 100% Macabeo. It’s a nice crisp white wine with notes of pineapple, white flower, and flint. This grape is one of the components of Cava and you can definitely pick it up here. It’s crisp and fresh, not complex but very well done. This is a summer sipper for those who want something different than a Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Score: 87/100

Estate Grown Spanish Wines

The Spanish Palate also markets a number of small producers from all over Spain. All of the wines below are available in Spain for under 20 Euros, with the majority of them around 10. All of these offer fantastic value for money and are worth seeking out.

• Hacienda Albae, Viognier 2019

The Hacienda Albae, Viognier stays on the lees in steel for four months. Notes of dandelion, sweet yellow peach, honey, and clay. The floral and yellow stone fruit notes are what really stand out. This is a solid, full-bodied Viognier. Don’t expect an ultra-crisp white wine but do expect something with some significant body. It is very similar to the wines of the Southern Rhône. For a wine that retails around 8 Euros in Spain, this is a steal. Score: 89/100

• Hacienda Albae, Chardonnay Barrica 2017

This Chardonnay Barrica from Hacienda Albae is fermented and aged in oak for six months. It’s deeper in color thanks to 24 months on the skins. There are unmistakeable Chardonnay notes here such as melon, sweet peach, and a touch of toast. The wood is laid down remarkably well, it’s negligible on the nose and pleasant on the mouth. Sweet and long yellow fruit finish. There’s a lot to like here. Score: 89/100

• Loess, ‘Inspiration’ Ribera del Duero 2018

Many mid-range Spanish reds tend to be too oaky for my palate. The Loess, ‘Inspiration’ Ribera del Duero is not one of those wines. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in oak for nine months. This is made from estate-grown fruit. The oak isn’t overbearing here and this is a pleasure to drink. Notes of dark cherry, mocha, and tobacco come together on a full-bodied frame. There’s intense, ripe fruit here but the wine is burdened by oak, which I love. Chewy tannins. This gets an uptick in score thanks to its affordability (11-15 Euros in Spain). Score: 90+/100

• Loess, ‘Collection’ Ribera del Duero 2015

For those that like bigger, oakier reds, the Loess ‘Collection’ Ribera del Duero is for you. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in oak for 24-30 months. This is a big, dark red with notes of cherry, baking spice, tobacco, and bacon fat. It enters the mouth with a ton of dark fruit. It’s a structured red. There is a spicy finish along with plenty of acidity. The woody tannins are a bit strong but with a big piece of meat, they shouldn’t be a problem. Score: 90/100

• Coral Duero, Los Lastros 2017

The Coral Duero, Los Lastros is simply fun to drink. It’s a single-vineyard Toro aged for 8 months in oak. Notes of bright cherry, earth, and tobacco. The interplay between fruit and oak here is fantastic. It’s more of a medium-bodied Toro, there’s enough fruit here to overpower the oak. Ripe tannins and a luxurious finish. Score: 90+/100

• Coral Duero, Rompesedas 2017

The Coral Duero, Rompesedas is higher up on this producer’s portfolio. It is a single-vineyard Toro aged for 18 months in oak. The specs suggested that this could be too oaky but that’s not the truth. There are oaky aromas but they are far from distracting. Notes of black cherry, crushed rose petal, and earth also emerge from the glass. This is rich and looks to be more age-worthy of the four wines. There’s a lot of structure from the barrel but this should fade with time. This might be the best wine out of the four but to drink, I prefer the Los Lastros. Score: 90/100

• Casa do Sol, ’10 Meses Sobre Lías’ Albariño 2016

The Casa do Sol, ’10 Meses Sobre Lías’ Albariño is brilliant. It is barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for 10 months. It’s a beauty and shows bottle development. Notes of caramel, dried peach, dried pineapple, yogurt, lemon, and flint. It’s very complex on the nose and in the mouth. Full-bodied with a gritty texture and a long finish. Spine-tingling acidity that is typical of the grape. It’s in a great place now so drink it up. Score: 91+/100

• Casa do Sol, ‘Braiña de Casa do Sol’ Albariño 2018

The ‘Braiña de Casa do Sol’ Albariño is the entry-level wine from this estate is beautiful. It’s an electric, high-acid white. There are notes of kefir lime, lemon, and seawater. It has a sandy texture on the palate with a long finish guided by citrusy acidity. The perfect wine for shellfish. Score: 89/100

• Válgame Dios, Toro Crianza 2017

The Válgame Dios, Toro Crianza is the only wine in this small producer’s lineup. This is 100% Tempranillo aged in French oak for 12 months. It’s a full-bodied, rich Toro. There are notes of black cherry, pepper, earth, and mocha from the wood. The wine has generous fruit and acidity with a subtle graphite note. The tannins are tough but not excessively drying. There’s a rustic charm to this wine but in a good way. Score: 89/100 

• El Regajal, Selección Especial 2018

El Regajal has created a fun red wine with their Selección Especial. It is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Petit Verdot aged in oak for 12 months. This is a big step up from their Las Retamas and doesn’t show the oaky flavors. Notes of red cherry, cassis, thyme, and pepper. Very complex and elegant nose. Full of fruit and flavors on the palate. Chewy tannins. The grape combination would be hard to guess if this was tasted blind but that doesn’t matter. It’s a delicious red that should develop nicely over the next few years in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Bigardo, Vino Tinto Experimental 2018

The Bigardo, Vino Tinto Experimental is a minimal intervention red made from Toro de Tinto (Tempranillo) aged in oak for about six months. Lots of soil, earth, cardamon, black cherry, and fall leaves flavors emerge from the glass. In the glass, it doesn’t act like a normal red from Toro. It’s medium-bodied and more earthy than fruity with bracing acidity and a low level of tannins. Fans of natural reds are going to find a lot to like here. Score: 90/100

• Leyenda del Paramo, ‘El Aprendiz’ Albarín Blanco 2018

The Leyenda del Paramo, ‘El Aprendiz’ is made from rare grape Albarín Blanco. It has bright notes of pineapple, almond, white peach, and clay. It is a fresh white but far from boring. The flavors come on strong and hit you with a blast of white and citrus fruits. The slight, bitter finish on the backend adds to the complexity. High, It’s got the aromas and punch of a Southern Rhône white with Riesling-like, citrusy acidity. Score: 89/100

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Thanks to the Spanish Palate for providing tasting samples. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Spanish Palate: Bringing Communities Together appeared first on Wine Travel.

Amphora wines are in fashion these days and are produced all over the world. While making wines in amphora (qvevri) may have originated in Georgia, the technique was revitalized by Joško Gravner (Collio, Italy). But, it is Portugal that has the world’s only appellation dedicated to wines made in amphora.

In Alentejo, these vessels go by the name “talha”. It is derived from the Latin word “Tinalia” which refers to a large pot or vessel. In the past, talhas were used to store liquids like wine and olive oil. Today, the region is at the forefront of this new (yet ancient) style of Portuguese wine.

DOC Vinho de Talha

In 2012, the DOC “Vinho de Talha” was introduced. The law states that grapes can be grown in all eight subregions of Alentejo. To be certified as a Vinho de Talha, the wine must stay in the talha (amphora) from harvest until at least 11th of November. This is St. Martin’s day and marked the day when the Talhas were tapped traditionally to enjoy the wine throughout the year.

You can learn more about talha winemaking and the traditions in the short video below.

Portuguese wine from amphora in Alentejo dates back to Roman times, around 2000 years ago. Although the traditions have persisted in the region, it’s only recently that the wines have had a commercial renaissance. Many of the wineries, big and small, have added Vinho de Talha wines to their portfolio.

One distinctive difference in the amphora winemaking in Alentejo is the bunghole at the bottom of the vessel. Unlike qvevri in Georgia, the amphorae in Alentejo are not buried. They are kept above ground and the finished wine is drained out through a bunghole in the bottom, instead of being pumped out from the top of the vessel.

Youth is another major difference in Vinho de Talha wines versus many amphora wines made in other parts of the world. All of the wines I tasted were from the previous harvest and were not aged in anything other than talha and bottle. The reds and the whites all have chewy tannins. It was also great to see that none of the wines were oxidized. In general, Of all the wines I tasted, the red “Vinho de Talhas” showed better than the whites.

There are no current producers of high-quality talhas in Portugal. It’s difficult for producers to hunt down amphorae in good condition. Limited vessels mean that the production of Vinho de Talha is small.

Professor Talha

To really understand the modern talha movement in Alentejo, you must see the “professor”.

Professor Arlindo Maria Ruivo was instrumental in the formation of the Vinho de Talha DOC. He has one of the largest collections of talhas in the region at around 50. Visiting his cellar in the small village of Vila de Frades was the highlight of my trip through the region. It’s a small cellar under the family home but brims with energy and romanticism (similar to Gravner’s cellar in Collio, Italy).

I couldn’t directly communicate with the professor but could see the genuineness in his eyes and hear the passion in his voice. Professor Arlindo learned the art of talha winemaking in the 1960s by his father-in-law who founded the Adega Vidigueira cooperative winery.

Professor Arlindo produces small batches of wine with his granddaughter Teresa. I got a sneak preview of the wines and can’t wait to taste the finished products, they will be bottled under the name Gerações da Talha. It’s only right that the godfather of the modern talha movement has his own brand on the market.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

*The production of Vinho de Talha is limited, which means that many of these wines are only available at the wineries.

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Roupeiro 2018

Made from the grape Roupeiro, which stays on the skins for three months. Interesting nose of sweet peach, green guava, caramel, and dried apricot. This is a fantastic amphora. Weighty on the palate with salty and mineral notes. This has a slight sherry note on the finish. Gritty texture and a long finish. Just a touch of grippy tannins. Score: 90/100

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Moreto 2018

The Esporaão Vinho de Talha Moreto is lighter in color for a red with notes of cherry, farm mud, mocha, and white pepper. Medium-bodied and juicy on the palate, you cannot feel the 14% of alcohol. Really nervy acidity and grippy tannin. Savory texture and good length on the palate. Score: 91+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (white) 2016

The José de Sousa Puro Talha White is an extreme wine, it’s a blend of Antão Vaz, Manteúdo, and Diagalves. Fermented in talhas and aged with a layer of olive oil on top to prevent oxidation, old school style. Low in alcohol at 12% abv. It spends four months with the skins. Old school in style with pumpkin, apricots, ginger. High acidity, this is a bit funky and almost tastes unfinished. Has a sherry-like finish. Very challenging and unique white wine. In between an orange wine and a sherry. Score: 90+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (red) 2015

The José de Sousa Puro Talha red is made with Grand Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonez aged for 16 months in Talha and covered with olive oil. This is lower in alcohol at 12.5% ABV with an attractive nose of forest berry, fall leaves, earth, and cherry. This almost smells like a Sangiovese. Medium-bodied and elegant, this has very high acidity. The firm tannins beg for food but they aren’t overly drying. Score: 91/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Branco 2018

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Art. Terra Amphora Branco is mostly Arinto with some Antão Vaz. The wine stayed on the skins for three months in Talha. There are flavors of lemon, white peach, and tangerine peel. It is fresher than a normal orange wine. There is a slight nuttiness on the finish, but overall it is crisp. Salty and low level of tannins. Score: 89/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Tinto 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The São Miguel Art. Terra Amphora red is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Moreto. Notes of pine, blackberry, black plum, and pepper. This is medium-bodied and silky with firm tannins. This has bright acidity to keep the wine light. Unique, delicious, and well made with a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Herdade do Rocim, Amphora 2018

The Herdade do Rocim Amphora is a blend of Moreto, Trincadeira, Tinta Grossa, and Aragonez. Notes of sour cherry, green herbs, pepper, and burnt meat. This is wild and juicy with firm tannins. Distinctive and unique. Very delicious. Made in amphora with no temperature control and indigenous yeasts. Score: 90+/100

• Vidigueira, Vinho de Talha 2018

The Vidigueira Vinho de Talha is a blend of grapes from bush vines over 100 years old. Grapes are Antão Vaz, Larião, Diagalves, Manteúdo, Perrum and Siria on the skins for three months. Concentrated with apricot, white peach, lemon peel, and fall leaves. Full-bodied and rich with about 2.5 g/L of RS. Full and chewy, ripe tannins, and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Cartuxa, Vinho de Talha 2017

The Cartuxa Vinho de Talha is made from Alicante Bouschet kept in the talha for eight months. There is a dark core of fruit with black cherry, blackberry, mulberry, smoke, and earth. This is full-bodied with firm tannins. It has weight and texture. The tannins are a bit fierce now and it would be interesting to see where this goes with time. Score: 89/100

• Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim, Alvarinho 2018 – Vinho Verde

The Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim Alvarinho is a cooperation between Herdade de Rocim in Alentejo and Quinta de Santiago in Vinho Verde. It’s made from Alvarinho. The grapes stay on the skins for two months and are fermented only in amphora. There are notes of yeast, lemon, and lime. This is a fresh white wine with texture. The time on the skins give texture but no tannins. Lively acidity rushes through the palate, tastes like a Cru Muscadet with a long finish. Score: 92/100 

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Thanks to the Vinhos do Alentejo for providing the appointments and accommodation during my stay. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Vinho de Talha: Portuguese Wine from Amphora appeared first on Wine Travel.

Mouth-filling reds that over-deliver their price points.

That’s was my past impression of Alentejo. While there are plenty of inexpensive, enjoyable reds to be found, Alentejo is much more than just cheap reds. There are world-class wines to be found in the region, both red and white.

Over the past few years, Charine and I have tasted a few serious reds from the region which piqued our curiosity. During a two and a half week stint in Portugal, I got the opportunity to discover Alentejo in depth.

Alentejan Wine Grapes

Alentejo is a treasure trove of wine grapes, both indigenous and imported. According to Vinhos do Alentejo, there are currently 82 wine grapes permitted in the Alentejo DOC. Surprisingly, there are more white grapes (42) than reds. Interesting white-skinned grapes include Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro while reds consist of Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alfrocheiro, Castelão.

Alexandre Relvas of São Miguel believes that Touriga Franca and Trincadeira are the future of red grapes in the region. São Miguel’s top wine ‘Pé de Mãe’ is made of the later. “Trincadeira is great at retaining acidity in our hot climate,” he says.

Some international grapes have taken to the Alentejan terroir including Alicante Bouchet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Noir, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Petit Verdot, and Syrah. Alicante Bouchet may have found its natural home in Alentejo. Brought to the region by Mouchão, it can make wines that are spicy and serious.

Wine Styles in Alentejo

Value red and white wines are aplenty in Alentejo. The hot summers and warm autumns allow for red wine grapes and the tannins to get fully ripe. However, a shortage of water is a problem and it’s something the region has to tackle if the drought continues.

I had the impression that Alentejo was completely flat, which is dead wrong. While there are vineyards and cork trees planted on expansive flatlands, there are also many hills which create several microclimates. This is a hot region, more suited towards reds. However, the local grape Antão Vaz and Arinto (used in the Douro) keep decent levels of acidity and are capable of producing world-class wines.

The reds are Alentejo’s calling card though. There will always be a market for plush, affordable red wines and the region already has that nailed. For higher-priced wines, Alentejo is wise to focus on Portuguese grapes in addition to Alicante Bouschet. There are already a number of serious reds being made that should suit all types of palates. I look forward to following the region’s progress.

Alentejo has its own appellation dedicated to wines made in amphora, the Vinho do Talha DOC. This winemaking has a tradition spanning over two thousand years. In recent times, it’s a style that is experiencing a renaissance. Stay tuned to our page for an upcoming article dedicated to these wines.

A Word On Alentejan Cuisine

Thanks to wide-open spaces, access to the Atlantic Ocean, and plenty of olive trees the food of Alentejo is hearty and stands up to the robust wines. The greasy black Alentejan pork is excellent as charcuterie, braised, or grilled. The seafood is also prepared in a bolder style too, like the Carne de Porco à Alentejana (clams with pork) and the Sopa de cação (dogfish stew). You can also find perfectly prepared lamb and robust tomato soup. After all, hearty wine requires hearty food.

Wine Recommendations:

• Esporão, Reserva 2016

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Esporão is one of the most recognizable estates from Alentejo, both locally and abroad. The Esporão Reserva is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragaonez, Alicante Bouchet, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in oak. The oak stands out here but goes well with the lush black fruit. Big, plush, and soft red. It’s polished and full-bodied with round tannins. Good and crowd-pleasing red. I’ve been tough on this wine in the past, but this vintage is beautiful. Score: 90+/100

*I also highly recommend the Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017, it’s a fresh red wine that offers tremendous value for money and shows true Alentejan character.

• Howard’s Folly, Sonhador 2015

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Howard’s Folly is the private project of David Baverstock, head winemaker at Esporão. The Howard’s Folly Sonhardor is simply a fantastic wine at a great price. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouchet, Syrah, Aragonez, and Touriga Nacional with notes of chocolate, dark red cherry, ripe strawberry, and pepper. It smells dark and dense but feels light on the palate. Chewy tannins and a good finish. This is a mid-range wine but I prefer it over the Howard’s Folly Reserva. Score: 90/100

*Thanks to Wine Concept in Lisbon for allowing me to taste through the Howard’s Folly portfolio.

• Herdade do São Miguel, Pé de Mãe 2017

This translates to “mother’s foot”. The Herdade do São Miguel Pé de Mãe is made from Trincadeira aged for 18 months in big barrels. This has a nose of black raspberry, violets, pepper, and tobacco. This has depth and distinction. For a wine from Alentejo, this has a lot of elegance. Tart fruit flavors and high acidity with firm tannins. After some time in the bottle, this could become quite Pinot Noir-esque. Only the second vintage of this wine. Score: 91+/100

• São Lourenço do Barracol, Vinho Branco 2018

The São Lorenço do Barracol Vinho Branco is a fabulous entry-level wine, it’s available only at the estate (which also happens to have a fabulous restaurant). It’s a blend of Roupeiro, Marsanne, and Viognier. This has aged very well. Fantastic body with flavors of apricot, honey, dried peaches, and sage. This is more Rhône in style with body and low acidity. It still retains a lot of fruit with just a touch of natural gas. Phenolic and tasty. Score: 90/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Mayor 2016

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The José de Sousa Mayor is a blend of Grand Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonez. Around 50% of this blend is made in Talhas and aged in French oak for 9 months. Notes of blackberry, cherry, spice, and tobacco. This is surprisingly elegant for a wine from Alentejo. The tannins are present and round but not overly grippy. Good length on the finish. The high acidity makes this a wine that screams for food. Score: 89/100

• Mouchão, Tinto 2013

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Mouchão is one of the premier names in all of Portugal. This producer was responsible for bringing Alicante Bouchet to the region. This tinto is 90% Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira. Fantastic red wine with notes of red fruit, raspberry, black herbs, and pepper. Svelte mouthfeel with impeccable balance and elegance. This tastes incredibly young, it shows no aging. Long and peppery finish. Score: 93/100

• Mouchão Tonel 3 & 4 2013

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The Mouchão Tonel 3 & 4 is 100% Alicante Bouschet bottled only in great vintages. The wine is matured in two 5000L barrels numbered 3 & 4. Concentrated and inky with notes of rubber, black cherry, black raspberry, tobacco, and pepper. This has depth and concentration not found with this grape. This is structured in a great way. Firm tannins promise this will have a long cellar life, this is an extraordinary effort. Score: 95+/100

• Quinta do Mouro, Tinto 2008

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The Quinta do Mouro Tinto is a blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouchet, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a dark, inky, and developed red wine. Thanks to Vinhos do Alentejo for digging into their collection and passing me this sample bottle. There are notes of sweet tobacco, leather, black cherry, plum, charred earth, and pepper. Full-bodied and mouth-coating tannins. Long finish. Score: 91/100

*Thanks to Vinhos do Alentejo for pulling this out of their personal collection for me to taste.

• Monte da Ravasqueira, MR Premium Tinto 2014

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The Monte da Ravasqueira MR Premium Tinto is a blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Aragonez, aged 27 months in French oak. Developed wine with leather, plum, black cherry, and a touch of raisin. This is a full-bodied, polished red wine. Dense and fruity with a generous amount of sweet oak with big tannins on the finish. It’s a nice wine, but the price may detract many consumers. Score: 89/100

• Vidigueira, Grande Eschola 2015

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What a brilliant red wine from a cooperative. The Vidigueira Grand Eschola is a blend of Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet aged for 12 months in oak. More serious than the price suggests (around 8 Euros in Portugal). Notes of black fruit, tobacco, black raspberry, mocha, and spice. A pretty serious wine for this price. It has fruit and nuances with a spicy intensity, soft tannins, and a persistent finish. Score: 90/100

• Herdade do Rocim, Grande Rocim 2015

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The Herdade do Rocim Grande Rocim is made from 100% Alicante Bouschet, foot trodden in lagares, and aged two years in the barrel. This is refined, serious stuff. Notes of rubber, tobacco, cedar, black cherry, plum, and pepper. This is full but not brooding because of the acidity. Alcohol is balanced and there is a spike of fruit intensity on the palate. Round tannins and a long finish. Score: 92/100

• Cartuxa, Pêra-Manca Branco 2016

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The Cartuxa Pêra -Manca Branco and Tinto are two of Alentejo’s most celebrated wines. The Branco is a blend Antão Vaz and Arinto, two-thirds of the wine is fermented in oak. Notes of pineapple, lime, mineral, and yogurt. Complex and balanced at the same time with good use of oak. It’s full and creamy with a citrus finish. This is the best white wine I’ve had from Southern Portugal to date. Score: 93/100

• Cartuxa, Tinto Reserva 2015

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The Cartuxa Tinto Reserva is a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez aged for 15 months in the barrel and 15 months in bottle before release. This is oaky but has notes of expensive, well-integrated wood. Notes of black fruit, smoke, pepper, bacon fat, and black cherry. This is full-bodied and refined. This has intensity on the back end with a long finish. Score: 92/100

Do you like our content?

If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Thanks to the Vinhos do Alentejo for providing the appointments and accommodation during my stay. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Alentejo: Plush Red Portuguese Wine and More appeared first on Wine Travel.

We were recently invited by the AEVP to taste the declared 2016 vintage of Port and participate in the annual Port Wine Days in the Douro. Most people associate the city of Porto, Portugal with the rich, hedonistic sweet wine known as Port. There is more to Portuguese wine than Port. Many exciting dry wines coming out of the region – both white and red.

Dry red Portuguese wine made in the Douro consist of grapes like Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and many other grapes. These are inky, rich, and complex reds. The dry white Portuguese wine made in the Douro uses grapes like  Donzelinho Branco, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato, Viosinho, and others. The Douro whites are rich and have beautiful salinity to them.

Charine loves Port and the entire trip was thrilling for her. Tasting through the 2016 vintage of Port was exciting and I’ll leave the recap of Port wines to Charine in an upcoming article. The week consisted of visits to several shipper caves in Gaia (across the river from Porto) and producers in the Douro. During our visits and meals, producers had the chance to show us several of their dry wines in addition to their Port wines. Here are our favorite Portuguese wines from the Douro on this trip.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the Wine Rating page.

White

• Niepoort, Redoma Douro Reserva Branco 2017 

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The Niepoort Redoma Douro Reserva Branco is a barrel fermented blend of Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto, and other various grapes. This wine has perfect wood integration, there are no overpowering oaky notes. It’s a beautiful Douro white with mineral, white peach, pineapple, and white flower notes. The wine is medium bodied, it isn’t too acidic but is still juicy.  4.2/5

• Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Branco) 2017

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The Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Branco) 2017 is a blend from two quintas (estates). Grapes are a variable mix of traditional Douro white varieties. It has notes of white peach, flint, yogurt, and white flower. Part of the cuvée is fermented and aged in the barrel, which makes the wine feel fresh. The finish is crispy and saline.   4.1/5

• Wine & Soul, Guru 2012

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We purchased this at Wine Quay Bar in Porto. It’s the top white from Wine & Soul. The Guru is a field blend of Vosinho, Rabigato, Codega do Larinho, and Gouveio. The vineyard is over 50 years old. The wine is barrel fermented and aged for seven months.

This is still young and can live further in the bottle. It’s very saline for a Douro white. Stone fruit, citrus, petrol, and a touch of yogurt are the main flavors. It’s full-bodied but not overly creamy, with a lower level of acidity. If this finish was longer, this could be pushed to ethereal levels.   4.2/5

Red

• Passadouro, Douro Touriga Franca 2015

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The Passadouro Douro Touriga Franca is another wine we purchased at Wine Quay Bar. It’s not the greatest wine in the world but it is one that fun to drink. Full of blue fruit, spiced plum, earth, and violet flavors. The wine is ripe and silky on the palate. There is a meaty, Syrah-like character on the finish. Most producers focus on making a varietal Touriga Nacional so it’s a lot of fun to try a varietal Touriga Franca.  3.8/5

For a step up in seriousness, we recommend the Passadouro Douro Reserva.

• Quinta do Crasto, Douro Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2015

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The Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Vinhas Velhas (Old Vines) is a wine with good distribution all around the world – this is for good reason. This is one helluva Douro red made from vines over 70 years of age and matured in oak for 18 months.

It’s full of red fruits, cedar, graphite, and dark chocolate flavors. The wine is full-bodied, structured, and fruity without being jammy. Firm tannins suggest this has a long life ahead in the bottle.  4.3/5

• Quinta Vale D. Maria, Douro 2015

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The Quinta Vale D. Maria is a wine that I’ve wanted to try for a long time. Thankfully it did not disappoint and was my favorite dry wine during our entire trip in the Douro. It’s a blend of the traditional red grapes (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, etc) aged in oak. Notes include sweet cherry, cedar, red fruit, and a touch of earth. The wine is full-bodied with bouncy acidity, supple tannins, and a long finish.   4.4/5

• Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Tinto) 2015

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The Ramos Pinto Duas Quinta Reserva is made with fruit from two estates and is aged in oak for one year. It’s a big and tart red that still shows balance. Red fruit, cedar, and leather flavors dominate the nose and palate. The juicy acidity is accompanied by firm tannins. While this has the gumption to age, it’s plenty fun to drink now.  4.2/5

We drank this next to the 1997 vintage, which is still alive and kicking. I’d be very interested to taste the 2015 at twenty years of age.

• Casa Ferreirinha, Quinta da Leda Douro 2015

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Casa Ferrierinha is known for producing the Barca Velha, one of the most expensive dry wines in Portugal. Casa Ferrierinha also produces a wide range of dry wines including the Quinta da Leda. This is a great alternative to the pricey Barca Velha which can reach 500 Euros a bottle.

It’s made of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz aged in oak for 18 months. This is a powerful and refined Douro red. Notes of red fruit, chocolate, tobacco, and cedar coat the palate. It’s full-bodied with round tannins. The wine is built to age but is very drinkable now.   4.3/5

• Lacrau, Douro Old Vines 2015

The post Portuguese Wine: Ten Wines From The Douro appeared first on Wine Travel.