2017 marked the third year of our location-independent lifestyle and the second year of our wine career. It was a momentous year for us—in the span of 12 months, we authored and published our second and third wine book Sipping Santa Barbara and Cracking Croatian Wine, traveled to seven countries, and tasted over 2,000 wines. For professional development reasons, we usually aim to taste at least 3,000 wines every year. However, because of our publishing deadlines, we were relatively sedentary in 2017 as we spent more than half of the year in Croatia and Serbia while finishing the production of our books; the other six months, we were traveling in the wine regions of Austria, Cyprus, Italy (Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Sardinia), Hungary, Slovakia, and Slovenia. In all the countries that we visited, we managed to find outstanding wines in every one of them. We mean… magnificent… unforgettable… outstanding… knockouts.

All in all, it was a rewarding year if we measure it out in wine glasses.

So here we go again: our favorite wines of the year. As advocates for diversity in wine and “Drink Adventurously” (our tagline), we hope our list reveals the ever-expanding choices that are available to wine lovers. While these 17 wines have been chosen based on, first and foremost, their sensory merits, other aspects are also taken into consideration. Did the wine teach us something new? Did it make us re-examine our assumptions? Did it spark curiosity or inspire conversations? Did it have a story or human element that mean something special to us? Ultimately, these are wines that we would highly recommend you, our wine-loving reader, to seek out.

SPARKLING WINE

Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millenaires 1995 – Champagne, France

We tasted this at a Charles Heidsieck workshop organized by VinArt Grand Tasting in Zagreb, Croatia. The presenter Drazan Sunjic was also our WSET teacher. Drazan knows the Champagne region and Champagne Charlie inside out. So it was an honor to have him share his knowledge and passion with us. The Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995 was the last wine of the tasting, and it wowed everyone in the room. Made from 100% Chardonnay, this bottle was disgorged in 2015. 19 years of lees aging, woohoo! Following 1983, 1985, and 1990, 1995 is only the fourth vintage of this tête de cuvée Champagne.

Why we love it: We had a hard time choosing between this and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006. We ended up picking Charles Heidsieck over Taittinger because it’s more developed at this point. The Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995 is a wine that must be tasted, not described.

Learn More | Best Of Vinart Grand Tasting 2017: Part 2

WHITE WINE

Bott Frigyes, Super Granum 2015 – Južnoslovenská, Slovakia

Bott Frigyes is an ethnic Hungarian living in South Slovakia. We first heard about his wines from Ernő Sagmeister of Dukay-Sagmeister winery in Serbia. If one of our favorite wine producers suggests we try the wines of another producer, we will follow the recommendation dutifully.

And so we did. During our two-week press tour in Slovakia, we had the chance to spend a night at the guesthouse of Bott Frigyes. Thank you, Tibor Vittek and Peter Drotár for organizing. After an elaborate tasting and dinner, Bott and his family left the guesthouse but not before trying to make us feel the most welcome.

 

Spending the night at one of our favorite wineries in Slovakia. And guess what, it’s “open cellar” night!

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“Help yourself to the wines.” Bott had left all the bottles that we tasted in the dining room. It was a long work day; we were knackered, but nothing was going to stop us from enjoying a nightcap.

 Why we love it: Bott Frigyes Super Granum 2015 is a barrel-fermented cuvée of Furmint, Hárslevelü, and Juhfark. Exciting grapes? Check. The wine has a head-turning bouquet, vivid flavors, and an undeniable mineral characteristic. The quality level, irresistible refreshingness, subtle nuances, tension, and texture of this wine remind us of the best of Chablis.  

Nikolaihof, Vinothek Riesling 2000 – Wachau, Austria

We were fortunate to drink this wine twice in 2017: the first time was at a workshop in Zagreb, Croatia, and the second time was at Austrian winemaker Hartmut Aubell‘s birthday celebration. The 1995 vintage of Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling was the first Austrian wine to receive 100 points from Robert Parker. Aged for 16 years in 3,500-liter oak cask and bottled in 2016, the 2000 vintage is the winery’s latest release of this wine.

Why we love it: It may be the greatest white wine that Matt has ever tasted. Also, this wine is a capsule of many fond memories—from our trip to Graz, Austria, to this…

A photo of our friend, Vjekoslav Stojišić, when he tasted this wine. Photo from: www.facebook.com/vinartgrandtasting

Learn More | Best Of Vinart Grand Tasting 2017: Part 1

RED WINE

Antinori, Solaia 2010 – Tuscany, Italy

One of the illustrious Aia’s of Tuscany… Ornellaia, Sassicaia, and Solaia. Antonio Galloni of Vinous wrote,” The 2010 is the greatest Solaia ever made.” We tend to agree with Galloni’s reviews, so when we found this 98-point wine—with an irresistible price tag to boot—in Belgrade, Serbia, it was a non-negotiable situation: let’s get it. Antinori Solaia is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Franc.

Why we love it: We opened this wine on May 22 to celebrate the second anniversary of our location-independent lifestyle. It was our first taste of Solaia, and it delivered more than we had imagined. Unfortunately, we did a disservice to this wine by drinking it at such a young age. Nevertheless, it showed a formidable marriage between finesse and power.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor 2007 – Maipo Valley, Chile

 

A moment of truth: has it all been a misplaced love or is the Serbian Kremen Kamen by Matalj winery one of the greatest reds? We put the Kremen Kamen wines up to a taste test next to Don Melchor (listed 8 times on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list) and are glad to see that Kremen Kamen is indeed a wine of great substance. Now that our love and faith in Serbian wine are justified, we wish our dear friend from Matalj winery that Kremen Kamen will have the same impact on Serbian wine industry as Don Melchor has on the Chilean wine image.

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In May 2017, we were in the final production stage of two books and inching towards being burned out. Matt decided to purchase a few iconic wines as a form of encouragement and pick-me-up. The stash included Antinori Solaia 2010 (listed above), Antinori Tignanello 2011, Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2012, Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2009, Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011 (listed below), M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 2010, and this—our good ol’ Don Melchor, a wine we used to drink a fair bit back in Singapore. Three out of those seven wines ended up being our “wine of the year”, so it was a perceptive splurge by Matt.

Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot, this wine has been listed eight times on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list, and the 2007 vintage scored 94+ points from The Wine Advocate by Robert Parker. We were in Serbia at that time so we thought we’d make a fun tasting out of this bottle. After all, it’s not often that one can find a 10-year-old Don Melchor on the shelf. We met up with Nikola Mladenović Matalj, the owner and winemaker of Matalj winery, and arranged a vertical tasting of his Matalj Kremen Kamen (which was in our Top 16 of 2016 list) along this wine.

Why we love it: We were fortunate to catch Don Melchor 2007 at its prime drinking window: the wine was showing the perfect balance between primary and tertiary notes. This remains to be the best bottle/vintage of Don Melchor we’ve tasted.

Learn More | Matalj Kremen Kamen: A Vertical Tasting

Fontodi, Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2011 – Tuscany, Italy

 

2011 Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. A burly Chianti with 15% abv, fruit flavors so intense that they are redolent of berry strips, and 6% acidity that disciplines the many layers into a harmonious unity. This wine is approaching the window of great drinkability but clearly has many more years of evolvement ahead before unveiling its peak. Flavors of sour cherry, black plum, tobacco, licorice, sweet cedar, cinnamon stick, and leather. Chewy tannins lead to a lengthy, strikingly tart yet sweet finish. This is a divisive wine as we’ve just drunk a bottle of 2011 Tignanello. Matt prefers the Tignanello because he thinks it has higher drinkability now. Charine prefers this wine for its powerful attack.

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We had a bottle of Fontodi Chianti Classico on our first date. That wine turned out to be a favorable choice for us in more than one way. So five years later, it was time to step up and give this Gran Selezione version a try.

Why we love it: It was a tough choice between this and its preeminent sibling, the Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve. In the end, this burly Chianti took the spot because of its current accessibility. And, to us, it’s simply more distinctive and more memorable than Flaccianello 2009. This wine is so good that it may even make your burp smell good.

Francuska Vinarija, Obećanje 2009 – Negotin, Serbia

 

I guess it’s no surprise that the Serbian winery Francuska Vinarija’s headliner is this Gamay bottling, since the proprietors are from Burgundy. Bouquet of predominantly redcurrant, maraschino cherry, and chalk, with lingering notes of white pepper, lilac, and leather in the background. Structured with juicy acidity and ripe fruit sweetness on the palate. For a 2009 wine, it’s incredible that I feel a tad sad for drinking it too early. In 2 to 3 years, the leather character will probably become more pronounced, and I expect a bit more tobacco leaf and earthy notes that can make this wine more nuanced than it already is. I was going to say it is more Fleurie in style but later decided that a reference to an aged Saint-Armour might be more accurate.

A post shared by Charine Tan (@charinetan) on Sep 25, 2017 at 11:26am PDT

Located in East Serbia, Francuska Vinarija, which translates to “French Winery”, is owned and operated by a Burgundian couple. These wines are not available in Serbia as the entire production is exported, mostly to France. It took us nearly two years to track these wines down: our friend had some bottles in his cellar, and he offered a case for us to taste. We were impressed with all the Francuska Vinarija’s wines that we tried. However, this Gamay bottling called Obećanje was a cut above the rest. The name Obećanje means “the promise”.

Why we love it: It’s the best non-Cru Beaujolais Gamay we’ve tasted.

Learn More | Serbian Grand Cru on the Slopes of Danube

Jakončič, Carolina Select 2006 – Brda, Slovenia

Prior to our 2017 trip to Brda, Slovenia, we knew nothing about Jakončič winery. We only found out about them when we arrived in Slovenia and Matjaž Zagradišnik from the winery reached out to us with a cellar invitation. Throughout the tasting, we were happy with the wines. Then, we got to the Grand Vin—Carolina Select, a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon—and it was an epic slam dunk. A wine that is built to age for decades, Jakončič Carolina Select is a wine with a waiting list and rightfully so.

Why we love it: Jakončič Carolina Select 2006 is a superlative Merlot. When we tasted this wine, it was immediately clear to us that it would be a highlight of the year. It has an opulent bouquet, full and luscious texture, intense fruit attack on the palate, and a persistent, focused finish. 

Learn More | Marjan Simčič and Jakončič: Classically Styled Slovenian Wine

Kozlović, Santa Lucia Noir 2012 – Istria, Croatia

Another tough selection. We shortlisted Clai Brombonero Refošk 2011, Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija, 2011, Coronica Gran Teran 2011, Trapan The One 2012, and this wine for the article. All of them are from Istria, Croatia. We ended up choosing Kozlović Santa Lucia Noir 2012 because of its current appeal balanced with future potential. It’s a wine that will undoubtedly appeal to many.

Made only in exceptionally great years, Kozlović Santa Lucia Noir 2012 is a 50-30-20 blend of Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Teran from the Santa Lucia Vineyard, an area that is best known for its mineral-driven whites. We were so glad that we managed to taste this wine right before finalizing our manuscript of Cracking Croatian Wine.

Why we love it: It’s a “Super Istrian”, so to speak.  This wine retains Teran’s tingling acidity and ferrous aroma while putting on some luxurious, Bordeaux-esque contours.

Learn More | 10 Istrian Wines to Try

Miani, Merlot Buri 2013 – Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

In January, we spent a week in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The winery that left the deepest impression was Miani, a recommendation that came from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous forum. When we posted on the forum seeking suggestions for “only the best wineries in Friuli”, one member replied, “There can only be one… Miani.”

Why we love it: The finest essence in a bottle. Want to know what soaring intensity feels like? This is your bottle. It’s one of the greatest Merlots we’ve tasted.

Learn More |  Miani: What Wine Dreams are Made of

Vylyan Duennium 2006 – Villány, Hungary

We first tasted Vylyan’s wine at a Villányi Franc workshop in February 2017. It was one of the two Villányi Cabernet Francs that stood out to us. A few months later, we had the chance to visit the winery. And as you might expect, we went with high expectations. By the end of our one-month stay in Hungary, we concluded that Vylyan remains as our top 10 favorite wineries in the country. Vylyan Duennium is a Cabernet Franc-based wine. For 2006 Duennium, some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon were also added to the cuvée.

Why we love this: It was our favorite wine during our three-day tasting trip in Villány. Exceptionally youthful for its age, this is a wine that shows a sense of place. We would love to share a bottle with our collector friends in the future.

SKIN CONTACT WINE

Dario Prinčič, Bianco Trebež 2012 – Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

Charine spotted the Dario Prinčič Bianco Trebež 2012 at an inconspicuous wine bar in Belgrade, Serbia. It was tucked clumsily in a corner of the wine fridge. Every time we see Dario Prinčič’s wine, it would be a done deal. We requested to purchase the wine, but as it turned out, the wine was not for sale;  it belonged to the bar’s owner. When the owner heard about our request and saw our enthusiasm, he decided to open a bottle and shared it with us. Dario Prinčič Bianco Trebežis is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio.

Why we love it: It’s a poised and complete amber wine with an allure that keeps us coming back for more. We were introduced to Dario Prinčič by our friend, John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears Winery (Georgia). Since our first bottle with John, we’ve shared many bottles of Bianco Trebež with various people. In a way, this wine is like a torque to us: centralizing and generalizing friendships through the vinous power.

Movia, Lunar 8 2008 – Brda, Slovenia

This wine was tied with Movia Puro 2010 in terms of sensory merits. We ended up choosing Movia Lunar 8 because of the context in which we drank it. On Matt’s 35th birthday, we shared a magnum of this wine with a group of winemakers, wine writers, and wine enthusiasts in Zagreb, Croatia. We tasted more than 10 wines that night, and this was the “Wine of the Night” with nearly full consensus. Movia Lunar 8 is made from 100% Rebula.

Why we love it: Charine said, “This wine is so good that it makes me feel like I’m drinking above my station.” It’s a wine that can arouse much pride, desire, delight, curiosity, and awareness.

Learn More | Kabaj and Movia: Slovenian Wines with Big Personalities

Radikon, Fuori dal Tempo 2001 -Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

Radikon was on our “Do Not Miss” list when we traveled to Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Our visit came less than five months after Stanko Radikon’s passing in the fall of 2016, and the family was missing Stanko dearly. Fuori dal Tempo means “outside of time”. This is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. 

Why we love it: At the time of our visit in January 2017, this was the second vintage confirmed for this bottling. Charine teared up when she tasted this wine. Radikon Fuori dal Tempo 2001 hovers on the palate with exquisite grace. It’s a sublime masterpiece that was personally crafted by Stanko Radikon.

Learn More | Gravner and Radikon: Italian Wines Without Compromise

SWEET WINE

The Anama Concept, Anama Vintage 2012 – Commandaria, Cyprus

In February 2017, we were on a two-week press tour in Cyprus. The Anama Concept wasn’t included in our official itinerary. But thanks to our friend George Gkenos, we found our way to the home of Lefteris Mohianakis and Kristina Apostolou Mohianakis—the husband-and-wife team behind this designer-chic producer.

The Anama Concept’s Anama Vintage cannot be officially called “Commandaria” because it’s made outside of the 14 designated Commandaria villages. But it’s still that time-tested, familiar taste of Cyprus’s most famous sweet wine made from the raisined grapes of Mavro and Xinisteri—both indigenous to Cyprus. This is the only wine that The Anama Concept produces, and the production is around 2,000 bottles per year.

Why we love it: The Anama Concept has taken one of the oldest wine brands in the world, preserved the tenets of Commandaria’s story, revitalized its image, refined its taste, and given it a time-relevant makeover. This wasn’t the only Commandaria-style wine that we loved during our Cyprus trip, but it stood out the most because of its dried fruit and citrus qualities, meaning it was less oxidative-tasting than most Commandaria wines. We also respect the vision of The Anama Concept and cherish the intimate time spent with Lefteris and Kristina at their home.

Learn More | Cyprus Sweet Wines: Commandaria and More

Tokaj & Co., 5 Putñovy 1990 – Tokaj, Slovakia

Tokaj & Co. was a state-run winery during the communist era in Czechoslovakia. The winery is now privately owned. The Tokaj & Co., 5 Putñovy 1990 is part of a limited-edition, archive wine release, which means it is still readily available on the market. The 127g/l of residual sugar is supported by 11g of total acidity.

Why we love it: During our two-week trip through the wine regions of Slovakia, this was arguably the most compelling Slovak wine that we tasted. True to the sweet Tokaji of that era, this wine is oxidative in style and densely packed but without heaviness. The botanical bouquet draws us in and the sugar-acid balance gives it dominance and youth. The front load of dried sweet fruit flavors are contrasted by a tart and spicy finish. This is a living example that great sweet Tokaji can be found in Slovakia.

Video | Exotic Wine Travel in Slovak Tokaj

Vega Sicilia, Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia 2007 – Tokaj, Hungary

Tokaji Eszencia is the rarest and most expensive of all the wines made in Tokaj. Prior to our 2017 wine trip to Hungary, we didn’t care much for Tokaji Eszencia. The idea of an exceptionally viscous wine with at least 450g/l residual sugar and 1-5% ABV was odd-sounding. Would it still taste like wine? Do people really drink it from a spoon?

Our visit at Oremus was set up by our friends from Wine Elite. During the tasting, we had the chance to try some rare, aged Tokaji Aszú wines including a 1956 vintage and a 1972. 1956 is a significant year because of the Hungarian Revolution and 1972 is widely touted as “the best vintage of the last century in Tokaj”. Still, Tokaji Eszencia 2007 was the transcendent one.

Why we love it: When we visited Tokaj, Charine was searching for the ‘Chateau d’Yquem of Hungary’. She found it in this exquisite bottle. Like pure energy in a bottle, drinking this wine makes us feel… healed. Vega Sicilia Oremus Tokaji Eszencia 2007 has 515g/l residual sugar, 15g/l total acidity, and 3% ABV. Those are some enticing numbers tucked in an extraordinary wine.

Video | Exotic Wine Travel in Tokaj, Hungary

This list seems fundamentally incomplete without a rosé wine. So here’s the most exciting rosé we’ve tasted in 2017: Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé 2016

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Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Tsiakkas Winery

Kosta Tsiakkas was working in the banking industry before deciding to dedicate himself to fully to wine. The winery is outside the picturesque village of Pelendri at close to 1000 meters in elevation. Tsiakkas exports to the USA and is the only Cypriot winery to have been reviewed by The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker). The famous wine publication scored the Tsiakkas Commandaria 2008, 95 points and the 2014 Xynisteri, 91 points. The winery produces around 170,000 bottles per year.

The view in front of Tsiakkas Winery 

The winery is hidden behind one of the main roads that snakes its way through the mountains. Our tiny rental car struggled to make it up the unsealed driveway, but when we turned a corner the views opened up. Newly planted, steep vineyards flank the Tsiakkas Winery. Parking the car became a tightrope act as we found ourselves dazzled by the mountain views.

Kostas spent a good three hours talking with us, showing us all of his wines, including several barrel samples and experiments. He is a powerful and passionate man who cares deeply about his wines. Kostas has a home right next to the winery, which is a rarity amongst owners of wineries in Cyprus. Many wineries are up in small, remote villages in the mountains, so many owners and winemakers choose to commute from bigger towns.

The Wines of Tsiakkas

For how outgoing and outspoken Kostas is, his wines show balance and restraint. His Xynisteri has nice minerality and his reds made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are delicious. His Maratheftiko and Yiannoudi show off what the grapes and winery are capable of. Tsiakkas Maratheftiko is the easiest and perhaps most enjoyable for the international to accept, along with the excellent example from Nelion Winery.

We tasted an example of a macerated, amber wine made with Xynisteri. Kostas told us he intends to make it in the future in pithari (local word for amphora). It is a wine that got us really excited but it is still in the experimental stage. The wines from Tsiakkas are definitely among the top Cyprus wines.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Tsiakkas Vamvakada 2014

The name of this wine is another word for Maratheftiko. This is 100% Maratheftiko and no other grapes were added to the blend. The wine is aged for one year in 300L French and American oak and six months in bottle prior to release. Red raspberry, blueberry, soil, earth, smoke, and a kiss of vanilla. Very fruit forward, fierce tannins and tight structure. This has ripe fruit and earthy notes that come together nicely.   4.2/5

• Tsiakkas Yiannoudi 2016

Barrel sample – Black fruit, earth, violet, black raspberry, white pepper. This is tannic but tangy and delicious. It’s like an imaginary blend of Rhone red wines mixed with Sangiovese from Central Italy. Dense and rich, this is a beauty. A wine that is familiar and unique at the same time, we preferred this to the bottled 2013.   4.2.5

Kyperounda Winery

Kyperounda is possibly the highest winery in the European Union at 1200 meters in elevation. They also have the highest vineyard in the EU, outside the Canary Islands, at 1400 meters in elevation. The winery is named after the village it calls home. It is quietly producing 300,000 bottles of high-quality wine every year.

Their “Epos” vineyard is in the photo below (note the skeleton of a home at the bottom of the vineyard for scale). The vineyard can only be reached by a steep road owned by the winery. The winemaker Minas Mina drove us up to the vineyard in his Land Rover and the views from the top were breathtaking. The vineyard is fairly young but is already producing fruit for Kyperounda’s top bottlings under the name “Epos”.

Europe’s highest vineyard outside the Canary Islands – Kyperounda Epos

The village of Kyperounda is off the well-trodden trail but it is worth the effort to get there. Built into the side of a cliff, the winery is impressive. Walking into the tasting room gives off a homely ambiance which is topped off with a fireplace. The elevator takes you deep down to an impressive cellar. A trip out to this winery is well worth the effort.

The Wines Of Kyperounda

Minas was calm and confident as he walked us through his wines, that demeanor is definitely reflected in the wines. He has a Ph.D in food science, more specifically with fermentation. Minas was a beer brewer in his past life but today he is crafting top Cyprus wine.

All Kyperounda wines are well-made, they show restraint and confidence. Kyperounda is one of two wineries making Xynisteri that is aged in oak, challenging the local belief that Xynisteri is meant to only be a fresh white wine. In our opinion, Minas also crafts the best Chardonnay on the island.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Kyperounda Petritis 2009

A small portion of this wine (20%) was in French oak for two months. The majority of the blend was on the lees for six months. This is made from 100% Xynisteri and it’s neon yellow-green in color. Some petrol, white flower, lime, wood, green apple, and a lot of grass. This is very oily on the palate, it really tastes like Semillon from Hunter Valley, Australia. The finish is limey, a unique and exciting wine.   4.3/5

• Kyperounda Epos White 2015

The Kyperounda Epos White spends nine months in French oak. It’s a single vineyard Chardonnay. Vanilla, melon, slate, pineapple, and sliced pear flavors are prominent in the wine. The acidity is juicy, it makes the fruit notes bright and lively. The long and mineral-driven finish is sure to please many tasters.   4.2/5

• Kyperounda Epos Red 2014

This spends one year in French barriques and one year in French 600L barrels. It is a single vineyard wine that is a 50/50 blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit is from the Epos vineyard. Blackberry, black cherry, molasses, dark chocolate, and cedar notes are the main flavors and the wine has a spicy finish. The wine is tight and austere now but should open up with time in the bottle. This has all the stuffing to go the distance in the cellar. If you get your hands on this, do yourself a favor and stock it away for a few years.   4.2/5

Vlassides Winery

Sophocles Vlassides studied winemaking at the prestigious University of California-Davis near Napa Valley. After returning to Cyprus, he was making wine out of his grandmother’s supermarket in the village of Kilani. Today Sophocles has built a beautiful, well designed, and functional winery producing around 120,000 bottles per year.

Vlassides Winery 

Sophocles has 16 hectares of his own vineyards and is moving more towards being 100% dependent on his own vineyards. The winery is built into a cliff, underneath a mountain road. Despite the modern look, you won’t find conference rooms, hotel rooms, or a restaurant. The winery was built solely for making wine.

We spent a few hours talking with Sophocles, he means business and is all about making the best wine possible. Nearly everyone in the wine industry had wonderful things to say about Vlassides and it’s easy to see why. A big proportion of Vlassides’ production revolves around international varieties, but Sophocles wants to shift his focus towards the local Cypriot varieties. Sophocles is experimenting with the local red grape Maratheftiko but he said. “I won’t release it commercially until I feel the quality is where I want it to be.”

Looking at the spotless cellar full of modern equipment, we have no doubt that fine wine will continue to come out of the winery – regardless of the grape varieties.

The Wines of Vlassides

Vlassides wines embrace the ripeness that the Cypriot sun brings and at the same time maintaining balance. These wines are rich and concentrated with high amounts of extract and complexity. The top two red wines are unfiltered which add to their textures. Sophocles’ top wine, the Opus Artis, may be the finest red wine we have tasted in Cyprus. If you get to Cyprus and you like red wine, Vlassides is a must try.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

• Vlassides Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Flavors in the wine consist of green apple, herbs, white peach, lemon. It has a medium weight on the palate thanks to the lees contact whichs adds richness. Acidity is mid-level for a Sauvignon Blanc but it works really well. Sophocles’ entry-level white, Grifos 2 White, a blend of Xynisteri and Sauvignon Blanc, is also worth trying.  4.2/5

• Vlassides Dokimes Agiorgitiko 2014 

Experimental wine only available at the winery.  It spends 12 months maturing in used oak. The wine is made from the grape Agiorgitiko, which is from Peloponnese, Greece. Black fruit, dark plum, meaty, cedar, vanilla, and rubber. Ripe and rich with chewy tannins and a long finish. It is a big red wine that would be great with meat. This is a beautiful effort and reminds us of Aglianico from Southern Italy.   4.2/5

• Vlassides Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

This wine spends 12 months in French Oak. The nose is gorgeous with forest floor, sweet tobacco, black pepper, black cherry, and cassis notes. The wine is very complex, the list of flavors goes on and on. The palate is rich and full without being too big. The fruit is ripe with developed tannins and a touch asphalt on the finish. Serious Cabernet Sauvignon from… Cyprus!   4.3/5

• Vlassides Opus Artis 2011

The wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz. This spends 18 months in oak and two years in the bottle prior to release. Blackberry, tomato leaf, pencil lead, black plum, black cherry and a touch of white pepper. Layers of fruit and texture with a touch of wood, this had a big mid-palate flavor spike. Delicious and well made, with a long finish and lots of life ahead of it. The Vlassides Opus Artis is a fine red wine worthy of collector’s status. 4.7/5

New label design for the 2014 Vlassides Opus Artis, photo courtesy of the winery’s website

You May Also Enjoy:

All of our Cyprus Wine articles

Disclaimer: The Cyprus Tourism Organization provided us with flights, hotel accommodation, a car rental, and a few meals. A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions of the wines are our own and we were under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Top Cyprus Wine: Our Favorite Cypriot Wineries appeared first on Wine Travel.

We were pleasantly surprised with our recent tasting trip throughout Cyprus. As we mentioned in a previous article, over the course of two weeks, we tasted more than 200 wines from 30 different producers. Most of our trip was spent on the road visiting two or three producers each day.

It was surprising to see a hotbed of young, winemaking talent churning out some solid juice. There is no shortage of good wine being made on the island. By our count, at least 20 producers are making at least one interesting wine. These producers in part two of Cypriot Wineries are producing multiple good wines across their portfolios and a few standouts.

Vasilikon Winery

Vasilikon Winery was established in 1993 by three brothers Heracles, Georgios and Giannis Kyriakides. The winery employs the only head, female winemaker on the island. It was the westernmost winery that we visited in Cyprus. We could see the Mediterranean Sea from the window of the tasting room at Vasilikon.

Vasilikon Winery is located in the Paphos region of Cyprus. Most of the vineyards in Cyprus are located on mountainous terrain with terraces cut into rugged slopes. Vasilikon is slightly different, it is located on a plateau at about 650 meters in elevation. The Mediterranean breezes coming from the west keep the area cool enough for viticulture.

The winery is big and impeccably clean. When we were in the winery, something interesting was taking place down in the cellar. The two top red wines were being sealed with wax, by hand.

Manual wax sealing at Vasilikon winery. This is the first time that we are watching the process in real life. #VisitCyprus #CyprusInYourHeart #CypriotWine

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Feb 7, 2017 at 9:21am PST

The Wines

All of Vasilikon’s offerings are well-made and balanced. We were especially fond of a few experiments they were undertaking, namely with the white grape Morokanella and the red grape Lefkada – known as Vertazami in Greece. All of the labels are modern and accessible, with the exception of the Agios Onoufrio Red –  which was the first red wine that the winery made.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

• Vasilikon Morokanella 2016

Yellow flower and lemon, pineapple, mineral water. Flavors are integrated well, full bodied and creamy, on the lees. Like a blend of Muscat and Malvasia. This is very harmonious, unique, and delicious. Tasted from tank sample   3.9/5

• Vasilikon Agios Onoufrio 2015

One of the owners, Giannis, told us about his recent trip to Bordeaux. He said that he wasn’t happy with the wines there and that his entry level red was just as good as the ones he tasted in Bordeaux. Of course, we balked upon hearing that statement – then we tasted the wine. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Maratheftiko. Black cherry, pencil lead, earth, very complex for an entry-level red. Good fruit and medium mouthfeel, some graphite and herbs on the palate. Fruity, tangy, and nicely balanced. It has grippy tannins, and they are easy enough for casual wine drinkers to enjoy – an exceptional wine for the price.   3.9/5

• Vasilikon Methy Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

In wood for 12-18 months and two years in bottle. Pencil lead, capsicum and black cherry and dark chocolate. Lots of menthol and peppermint, fruity and firm tannins on the finish. The nose is very nice, we would like the finish to be slightly longer, but this is still a very good effort. This wine took us completely off guard.  4.0/5

Nelion Winery

This was the smallest winery that we visited during our stay in Cyprus. Situated near the small village of Pretori, it offers gorgeous views down the valley. It was a clear day when we arrived and could see Mt Olympus from the winery, which is the tallest mountain in Cyprus.

View from Nelion Winery, Mt Olympus is on the right in the background

The Ioannou family founded the winery in 1996 and they are now on their second generation of winemakers. Marinos finished his winemaking education in Greece and returned home to head up the production. Marinos told us that last year he only made 20,000 bottles of wine because he wants to move towards using only estate-grown fruit –  a rarity in Cyprus.

Nelion Winery is small and humble, but don’t let that fool you. They produce some serious wines. Marinos is the only producer on the island making a dry red wine from the indigenous grape Ofthalmo. Marinos also makes several different dessert wines from Black Muscat, Grenache, and Chardonnay.

The Wines

All of the wines in Nelion’s portfolio have richness and depth. The reds are dense and have the stuffings to age – very similar to Californian reds without excessively high alcohol. The entry-level sweet wines are very easy drinkers while the more serious ones like the sun-dried Chardonnay will appease critical palates. Because of the small production, most of the wines are only available on-site. It’s worth making a day trip from Limassol up to this wonderful winery. Kick back, sip on some wine, and enjoy the view!

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

• Nelion Maratheftiko 2015

This is Marinos first attempt with this grape. When we tasted it, we nodded our heads in astoundment. Marinos replied, “I’m glad you like it, I think it’s a great wine but I didn’t know if my judgement was clouded.”

It spent 11 months in new 300L French Oak. Charred wood, bramble berry, black cherry, earth, herbs. Very balanced, nice texture, the tannins are fine-grained and under control. This tastes like a very good, under control Zinfandel.   4.3/5

A post shared by Marinos Ioannou (@ioanmari) on Jun 16, 2017 at 4:39am PDT

• Nelion Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

This is the first and last Cabernet Sauvignon from Marinos, he wants to move towards indigenous varieties. The wine spent 12 months in oak and is full of graphite, black cherry, capsicum, and a kiss of vanilla. This is big and aging beautifully, great fruit with fine grained tannins. This is still youthful, extremely well made, and can age further in the bottle.   4.4/5

This is part 2 of the Cypriot wineries article. Check out our previous article, Cypriot Wineries: Part One. 

You May Also Enjoy:
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine
You Cheat Sheet to The Wines of Cyprus: Part I
Vouni Panayia: Confidence in the Cypriot Wine Grapes
George Kassianos: The Godfather Of Cypriot Wine
More than Xynisteri: Indigenous White Wine Grapes of Cyprus
Maratheftiko And The Other Red Grapes Of Cyprus

Disclaimer: The Cyprus Tourism Organisation provided us with flights, hotel accommodation, a car rental, and a few meals. Parts of our stay were sponsored by The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos) and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions of the wines are our own and we were under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Cypriot Wineries: Part 2 appeared first on Wine Travel.

This is Part 2 of our article on the indigenous grape varieties of Cyprus. Part 1 contains our thoughts on the white varieties.

Cypriot Red Varieties

There are several international red grapes showing potential in Cyprus. Most producers compliment the hardiness of Syrah, Mataro (Mourvedre), and Grenache. We tasted several solid wines from of all of these grapes. As we stated in a previous article, it seems like Rhône grapes (both red and white) can really thrive in Cyprus.

Cabernet Sauvignon also produces wines of stunning quality, some of these wines were even better than the Shiraz examples we tasted.  There are some good unoaked examples, namely from Lagria Winery, to barrel aged examples from Nelion, Vasilikon, Kyperounda, and Vlassides.

International grapes are great but like any emerging wine region, Cyprus is looking for differentiation. This comes from showcasing native varieties. There are a number of indigenous reds grapes that are looking to spread their wings in Cyprus. These are the red grapes that impressed us the most.

Mavro

This is the second variety that exists in the blend for Commandaria (Xynisteri is the other). It is a red grape and accounts for more than half of all plantings within Cyprus. There are not many high-quality varietal wines made solely of Mavro. Many producers say that Mavro has low acidity and bland flavors. Some wineries use it to blend and add color and some to make rosé. Yiannis from Vouni Panayia isn’t ready to give up on the grape, he believes that good red wine can be made out of it.

Will high-quality dry red wines be made from Mavro? Time will tell. Until then, we still have Commandaria!

• Ekfraseis Vassiliades Rose 2016

Ekfraseis Vassiliades is a new producer on the Cypriot scene and his wines show a lot of promise. This rosé made mostly from Mavro. Like most Cypriot rosé this has a darker red color. The flavors include strawberry, cherry, and grass. The wine is full-bodied on the palate for a rosé. The wine has a small amount of residual sugar, a little tannic touch, and high acidity. This is a summer wine that will make red drinkers happy.  3.8/5

Maratheftiko

Maraftheftiko is the “in fashion” indigenous grape of Cyprus at the moment. Nearly all of the high-quality producers in Cyprus are making a dry red wine from Maratheftiko. The grape has problems pollinating in the vineyard and is known to give notoriously low yields. We could see the frustration in many grower’s faces when talking about the vineyard management of this grape.

There is definitely a healthy dose of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Shiraz blended in Marathefitko wines to round out the flavors. Since Cyprus is in the EU, up to 15% of other red grapes are allowed to be in the blend. The quality of Maratheftiko wines vary but common flavors we pick up are wild berries, plum, and white pepper notes. Tannin management is a big variable in these wines. When the tannins are managed, this grape makes delicious wines.

These two examples were our favorites along with those from Nelion, Tsiakkas, and Vouni Panayia.

• Fikardos Maratheftiko 2008

This was an archive wine from Frikardos. It was matured 16 months in French oak and one year in bottle before its first release. Forest floor, rubber, mushroom, red cherry, earth, a touch of cedar. Sour red fruit, nice weight, and firm, drying tannins. This is aging beautifully and is a real surprise. Excellent wine, very Rioja Gran Reserva – esque.   4.3/5

• Argyrides Maratheftiko 2013

This was one producer that we didn’t get a chance to visit. The wine is aged for one year in French Oak. The oak integration is very good and is high-end wood from the aromas on the nose. The flavors of the wine include vanilla, black cherry, blackberry, leather, cedar, and mineral. This is very good wine but it tastes as it could be any variety. The mouthfeel is exceptional with silky smooth tannins.   4.1/5

Ofthalmo

Ofthalmo is another low-yielding native red grape. We only bumped into a few producers turning this grape into commercial wines. Many producers have little confidence in this variety. The grape is known for its high tannins and poor color that fades quickly.

Apparently, there are two clones of this grape. Nelion winery has a clone that has smaller berries and shows consistent color. Their dry red example might change some opinions on this grape moving forward.

• Lagria Rosé 2016

Situated in the village of Salamiou, this winery has a great story. The partners are from the village and all moved abroad to work. They all met again years later while returning to Cyprus for a holiday. They made a pact to start something together when they all moved back home.

This rosé is made from 100% Ofthalmo. It has flavors of strawberry, earth, and some citrus. The wine is very interesting, fresh and fruity yet serious. A wine that pairs well with Cypriot meze.   3.8/5 

• Nelion Ofthalmo 2014

The only red monovarietal wine we tasted from this grape, it spent six months in used oak. This has soy sauce, brown spice, blackberry, cedar flavor. Black plum comes out in the mid-palate. Juicy and medium weight in the mouth with a high level of tannins.   3.8/5

Yiannoudi

This is the grape producing a lot of buzz amongst the local wine growers. The large KEO Winery has had plantings of this grape for many years but didn’t release their first monovarietal wine until 2011. Currently, there are only four producers who are making monovarietal wines from this grape. When vinified, it can give off earthy black fruit and pepper flavors, similar to Rhône Syrah, with a touch of Sangiovese-like tartness – like Vouni Panayia’s example.

We have mentioned two solid examples from Vouni Panayia and Tsiakkas in previous articles. This grape is in the early stages of understanding amongst Cypriot growers. What we have tasted shows a lot of promise.

• Kthma KEO Yiannoudi 2014

We tasted this from a tank sample. The wine was aged 14 months in French and American oak. Very interesting nose of brambleberry, molasses, and raspberry flavors wrapped up in toasty oak. This is a medium bodied and juicy wine that tastes very nice on the mouth, but the overall structure needs a little bit of tightening up.   3.5/5

Is it indigenous? Lefkada aka Vertzami

The official stance is that Lefkada is actually the grape Vertzami from the island of Lefkada, Greece. It was brought to Cyprus in the 1950’s. However, some producers argue that it may actually be a different grape altogether, suggesting it is indigenous to Cyprus. It is often used as a blending grape because of the color and tannic structure. There are two producers making this as a varietal wine. Drinking varietal Lefkada wine was an exciting experience for us.

• Makkas Lefkada 2011

Makkas is one of two wineries making a varietal wine from this grape (Vasilikon is the other). Aged for 12 months in French oak and Acacia and two years in the bottle. It is unfiltered. Very earthy nose with leather, thyme, and a touch rubber. Red fruit, and red grapefruit are the dominant fruit notes coupled with juicy acidity. The wine has firm, chewy tannins and a long finish.   4.3/5

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

You May Also Enjoy:
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine
You Cheat Sheet to The Wines of Cyprus: Part I
Vouni Panayia: Confidence in the Cypriot Wine Grapes
George Kassianos: The Godfather Of Cypriot Wine
More than Xynisteri: Indigenous White Wine Grapes of Cyprus
Cypriot Wineries: Part 1

Disclosure: The Cyprus Tourism Organization provided us with flights, hotel accommodation, a car rental, and a few meals. A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions of the wines are our own and we were under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Maratheftiko and the other Red Grapes of Cyprus appeared first on Wine Travel.

We were pleasantly surprised with our recent tasting trip throughout Cyprus. As we mentioned in a previous article, over the course of two weeks, we tasted more than 200 wines from 30 different producers. For most of the trip, we were on the road visiting two or three producers each day.

It was surprising to see a hotbed of young, winemaking talent churning out some solid juice. There is no shortage of good wine being made on the island. By our count, at least 20 producers are making at least one interesting wine. These producers in listed in part one of Cypriot Wineries are producing several good wines across their portfolios and a few standouts.

Tsangarides Winery

One of the two wineries in Cyprus with organically certified vineyards. It is a brand new winery, established in 2005, producing about 200,000 bottles per year. Tsangarides estate vineyards are certified organic but they also buy grapes from other local farmers, like most producers in Cyprus.

Tsangarides was the first winery that we visited in Cyprus that impressed us with their entire portfolio. The winery is beautiful and secluded in a tiny village called Lemona. From the al fresco seating area, you can see down the Troodos mountains and into a beautiful valley.

The proprietor Angelos is working hard to plant more vineyards so he can be a fully certified organic winery. Some of the wines we tasted need more bottle aging before they are released but all were of good quality. Of all the examples we tasted in Cyprus, Tsangarides is one of only two producers making solid Chardonnay. Their unoaked Chardonnay won a silver medal at the 2016 Decanter competition.

The Wines

The wines here have impressive minerality and depth. The depth and concentration of Tsangarides’ estate “Organic” line of white wines really distinguishes them from other producers on the island. For all the talk of Shiraz/Syrah doing well on Cyrpus, many have disappointed us. The Tsangarides Shiraz is the exception, it is excellent. The wine shows fruit, balance, and restraint. It’s worth taking the picturesque drive from Paphos to visit this winery.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

• Tsangarides Xinisteri Organic 2016

Notes of pine, white flower, minerals, grass, smoke, and pineapple. Wine with an oily body, finishes with lemon, high quality and intense. The acidity is corrected like all Xynisteri dry wines in Cyprus. It was perhaps the most mineral driven Xynisteri wine we came across.   4.1/5

Have you come across a wine grape variety that doesn’t seem to make a single bad wine? We think we have now. The Cypriot variety Xinisteri is known to make fresh, fruity, light-bodied white that should be consumed within a year after its vintage. Even the most basic, homemade Xinisteri wine has been decent to us–quite aromatic and easy-drinking even if it is thin and light bodied. The problem is that the name Xinisteri translates to “no acid”, and almost all Cypriot winemakers have to add tartaric acid to balance things out in Xinisteri wine. On a similar note, the Tsangarides Xinisteri is quite a stand-out to us. It is more mineraly than fresh-fruity. The notes of pine, white flower, freshly cut grass, pear, and fruit oil draw us in repeatedly! 🍷Follow us on Facebook (exotic wine travel) for more wine education, travel fun, and of course the upcoming full episode of this preview! 🍷#CyprusInYourHeart #CypriotWine #VisitCyprus

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Feb 12, 2017 at 6:32am PST

• Tsangarides Shiraz 2010

This smells like a Barossa Shiraz with blackberry, pepper, graphite. Rich, full, and tangy with ripe and easy-going tannins. This is rich and delicious, spicy and with a long finish. Aged in used oak barrels for over 6 months. This is the only wine that has a different label from the rest of the Tsangarides portfolio. Labels of Shiraz are made by commissioned, local artists and add a certain “fun-factor” to the wine.   4.2/5

Zambartas Winery

Possibly the most respected man in the Cypriot wine industry is the late Akis Zambartas. He was the chief enologist and managing director of KEO, the largest winery on the island before starting his own label in 2006. Akis Zambartas even has a special section dedicated to him in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Guide to Wines 2016. Akis studied and helped revive over 12 native Cypriot varieties.

Akis’ son Marcos went to Adelaide to study winemaking. Marcos chose Southern Australian to study wine because he felt the climate was similar to Cyprus. He now heads up the winemaking and production of Zambartas Winery. The winery is at its capacity, producing 85,000 bottles of wine per year from mostly contracted grape growers.

The new winery was built in 2007 and it feels like a home when walking inside. There are wonderful views and an inviting fireplace next to a large collection of wine books. The winery is located downstair, it is spotless and well organized. A table for tasting overlooks the cellar.

The winery is in the Agios Amvrosios village which is an interesting drive in itself. Around the area are barren terraces as far as the eye can see. Most of these vines were pulled after the market for cheap bulk wine dried up with the fall of the Soviet Union. The area makes for a beautiful drive but is a “vineyard graveyard.”

The Wines

Zambartas wines are clean, well-made, and feel very “New World.” This isn’t a bad thing, the wines have balance and explosive flavors. All of the wines will benefit from extended time in the bottle. Due to the high demand for their wines, it tastes like the wines are released a tad early. Fans of Australian Shiraz will feel right at home with their Shiraz-Lefkada blends.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

• Zambartas Xynisteri Single Vineyard 2015

The vineyard is 950 meters above the sea and the vines are 28-years-old. About 60% of the wine is fermented and aged in new French Oak for 5 months. This has a beautiful nose with vanilla, yogurt, lemon, creamy, lime. Nice mouthfeel, the wine really sings on the palate. It flows very nicely and the finish is nice  with good oak integration.   4.0/5

• Zambartas Lefkada – Shiraz 2013

One year in French and American oak barrels. Beautiful nose of black pepper, earth, violets, blackberry, and black plum. The wine has nice weight on the palate with ripe, chewy tannins. This is some serious stuff, the Lefkada adds a new dimension of flavor to the Shiraz.   4.2/5

You can read Cypriot Wineries: Part Two in the coming weeks.

Disclosure: The Cyprus Tourism Organisation provided us with flights, hotel accommodation, a car rental, and a few meals. Parts of our stay were sponsored by The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos) and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions of the wines are our own and we were under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Cypriot Wineries: Part 1 appeared first on Wine Travel.

Can sweet wine be the key for Cyprus to becoming prominent on the world stage? One producer of dry wines told us, “If everything about Cypriot wine were up to me, I would make all the producers focus on sweet wines. Look at Madeira (Portugal), it is a tiny island but people know them for a certain style of wine. Perhaps they make decent dry wines, but their export market is all about sweet wines.”

With the hot, dry Mediterranean climate in Cyprus, this unnamed producer definitely has a case. The island nation of Cyprus is in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea, just south of Turkey and a stone’s throw from Syria. Most of the vineyard area in Cyprus lies on the 35 Degrees North parallel. Most of the vineyards are at high altitude, which mitigates high temperatures. However, many producers told us that hot air can blow over from the middle east. This causes heat spikes for days during crucial ripening times in the summer.

All of these factors add up to prime conditions for sweet wines, which Cyprus has been doing for a few millennia. The flagship dessert wine of Cyprus is Commandaria, but I’ve found several other luxurious sweet wines in the country as well.

Commandaria: Wine of Kings, King of Wines

Commandaria may be the oldest named wine still being made today. It may even be the source of the modern appellation system. Master of Wine Caroline Gilby says that evidence suggests it was made as early as 800 BC and was renowned in the Classical world. The wine was named in the 13th century during the Crusades. Richard the Lionheart said Commandaria is “the wine of kings and king of wines.”

The wine is made first of all by sun-drying the local grapes Xynisteri and Mavro. The grapes are then vinified and matured in oak for a minimum of two years. Many producers age their wines longer and some use a “solera-like” system of blending new and old barrels of wine. The result is a dark, sometimes brown, in color dessert wine that is nutty and lusciously sweet. Commandaria can be a non-vintage or vintage wine.

Much has been written on Commandaria, one of the world’s great classical wines. Traveling through Cyprus was our first experience with this wine. I was shocked at the quality of these wines. In our mind, they are grossly undervalued in the world of dessert wine.

• KEO St John Commandaria 1984

The state-run KEO is the biggest winery on the island, pumping out four million liters of wine per year. They have barrels of Commandaria that are over 100 years old! I tasted the non-vintage bottling and this 1984 vintage wine. Brown in color and full of lemon, coffee, dark chocolate, dried apricot, dried date, dried nut flavors. Rich and delicious, with nice acidity to balance the sugar. It finishes off like a brownie covered in honey. This is a GREAT wine any way you slice it.   4.4/5

A Fresh Take on a Classic

While traveling through the country, a few winemakers told us about a young guy with a fresh take on Commandaria. This producer wasn’t on our itinerary but we made an effort to visit him.

Husband and wife Lefteris Mohianakis and Kristina Apostolou Mohianakis are the founders of The Anama Concept. Lefteris, a trained oenologist, had his first taste of Commandaria in 2007. He was enchanted by the wine and decided to dedicate himself to producing Commandaria. His wife Kristina is a jewelry designer and designed the innovative packaging of The Anama Concept. Their first vintage of The Anama Concept was 2009.

• Anama Concept, Anama 2012

This is 160 g/L  with 14.8% of alcohol and a tawny brown color. This is full of tomato leaf, caramel, orange peel, chocolate, dried date, raisin, and dried pumpkin. Rich and luscious with nice acidity and a long finish full of coffee and grapefruit. Elegant, intense, and precise. The flavors of dried fruit and citrus take center stage on the finish. Marvelous effort!   4.4/5

Other Excellent Cypriot Sweet Wines

There are other very good examples of sweet wine in Cyprus besides Commandaria. These wines can be made from sun-dried and/or late-harvest grapes. Here are our favorite dessert wines besides Commandaria.

• Ekfraseis Vassiliades Botrytis Xynisteri 2015

Barrel sample. This wine is made by a new face on the Cypriot wine scene. They are off to a great start with an interesting Cabernet Franc, delicious rosé, and this blockbuster sweet wine! This is made from grapes infected with Botrytis, the lovely fungus that makes the sweet wines of Sauternes famous. This has 220g/L of sugar and 15% ABV. The beautiful nose reveals notes of almond, raisin, dried apricot, autumn leaves and a touch of lemon. Nice acidity with intense flavors and lots of earthiness and a meaty finish. Top-notch sweet wine that can compete with the finest dessert wines around the world.   4.4/5

Big triumph for the sweet wine today. This @vassiliades_expressions sweet wine made from botrytized Xinisteri grapes possesses a melodic tension between fruit, nut, and game! #CyprusInYourHeart #CypriotWine #VisitCyprus

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Feb 14, 2017 at 9:36am PST

• Ayia Mavri Axion Esti 2014

From this small boutique winery in the village of Kilani. They have won many awards for their sweet Muscat but this wine was my favorite from the flight tasted. The Axion Esti was a mistake originally.  The proprietors of Ayia Mavri went on holiday, forgetting to harvest their Shiraz. They came back to find overripe grapes but decided to make wine from them anyway. This is full of violet, blackberry, white pepper, and black herb. This has 85 g/L of residual sugar with high tannins and acidity. This is unusual for a dessert wine but delicious.    3.2/5

• Nelion Chardonnay Sun-Dried NV

A special edition, late harvest wine of grapes that were also sun dried for seven days. It is a blend of 2011 and 2012 vintages and was made to commemorate the 20th anniversary of Nelion winery. Clocking in at 12% ABV and 150 g/L of residual sugar. White flower, melon, dried pineapple, and banana, with a touch of nuttiness and savory notes. Rich and delicious with nice acidity and a touch of wood on the end palate.   4.1/5

We brought this wine to some friends from the Facebook group #winelover and they all loved it. Our friend even posted about it on his Instagram account.

watch out for this (wine)! it’s fabulous.

A post shared by Jürgen Schmücking (@jschmuecking) on Feb 13, 2017 at 3:11pm PST

Is Sweet Wine the Answer for Cyprus?

Cyprus has no shortage of stunning dessert wine. But is it the answer to developing export markets? I’ve tasted so many unique, dry Cypriot wines that it’d be a shame to call sweet wine the definitive answer. However, there is definitely room in the wine world for these sweet wines from Cyprus. The quality is undeniable.

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

You May Also Enjoy:
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine
You Cheat Sheet to The Wines of Cyprus: Part I
Vouni Panayia: Confidence in the Cypriot Wine Grapes
George Kassianos: The Godfather Of Cypriot Wine
More than Xynisteri: Indigenous White Wine Grapes of Cyprus

Disclosure: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews

The post Cyprus Sweet Wines: Commandaria and More appeared first on Wine Travel.

Our favorite thing about traveling around the world for wine is tasting unique, indigenous varieties. That is why we jumped at the chance to visit Cyprus. With its long history of winemaking and isolation, many old grape varieties have survived there.

The Cypriot wine industry is working hard to focus on their native grapes. The most famous Cypriot wine, named Commandaria, is a blend of two native varieties—Xynisteri and Mavro. The wine industry is not resting on its laurels and many producers are now focusing on dry wines. Nearly every producer is producing a dry white wine from Xynisteri and most are attempting to produce a dry red wine from the finicky Maratheftiko.

One interesting thing to note about many of these varieties is the vines that they come from. About 90% of the vines in Cyprus are old, head-trained, bush vines. They stick out of the ground looking like old, gnarly hands. Cyprus was never affected by phylloxera, while the rest of Europe’s vines suffered in the late 19th and early 20th century. Therefore, the vines are all on their original rootstock.

Cypriot White Wine Grape Varieties

Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Viognier can all be found in Cyprus. There were examples of varying quality made from all of these international grapes. Producers often commented on international grapes struggling with the sun and heat in Cyprus. All the producers agreed that Cyprus has a need for white grapes capable of making more high-quality wines.

All producers are working with Xynisteri and because of the focus, quality has jumped tremendously in the last five years (so we were told). The other three native grapes were difficult to track down. Getting a chance to taste them takes serious effort. Hopefully, the Cypriot producers continue to experiment with all of these grapes as some show great potential.

Xynisteri

Xynisteri on its own is a neutral grape, similar to Spain’s Palomino—which is used to make Sherry. Xynisteri is one of the two grapes used in the traditional dessert wine, Commandaria. In the last several years, many producers have focused on making this wine in fresh and fruity style. The name translates to “little acid” and wines made from the grape need acidity correction, which the Cypriot law allows. It is also blended with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, or Muscat to add aromas and flavor.

We found this grape to make very nice white wine. You can count on every producer to make at least a decent Xynisteri. Most producers make a Xynisteri wine that is meant to be drunk young. However, a few also make cellar-worthy, barrel- fermented or/and aged Xynisteri like those from Kyperounda and Zambartas. We often found lime and pine flavors in Xynisteri wines.

• Nicolaides Xynisteri 2015

Nicolas Nicolaides studied winemaking in Montpellier, France. This Xynisteri is markedly different from others and is very French in style. Kept on the skins for one day. Nice golden color. Nuts, mature peaches, and flowers. Oily and balanced body. Long finish and delicious. Very much like a Côte Catalanes white wine made from Rhône varieties. Unfortunately, Nicolas made Xynisteri in this style for only one vintage.   4.1/5

• Ezousa Xynisteri 2016

Full of pine, mineral, lime, and white peach—typical Xynisteri flavor profile. The wine is crisp with a touch of residual sugar. The finish is very citrusy. Mineral driven and delicious.   4.0/5

Morokanella

A very interesting white grape that is just starting to gain some traction. We only came across three producers making wine from this grape. It has adapted to the heat and lime soil of Cyprus. Many producers have faith in this grape, but time will tell as more start using it. The examples we tasted were smokey and oily in texture with a nice citrus finish.

• Aes Ambelis Morokanella 2016

Smoky with white pear and a touch of white peach. Juicy and almost soapy on the palate, with a lime finish. This would benefit from a few more months of bottle aging but a nice effort from this winery.   3.7/5

Promara

Only one producer is working with this grape, Vouni Panayia. There’s a hypothesis that it is a mutation of Xynisteri, but that has not been proven. The examples from this winery showed unique flavors of smoke and brown spices mixed in with melon and citrus fruit. The wines made from this grape were not high in acidity but very well-made. You can see a more in-depth write-up about Vouni Panayia in this article.

Spourtiko

We only tasted two examples of this variety. One example was poorly made and oxidized, while the second one was more interesting. Vouni Panayia makes a varietal wine from this grape as well but they were completely out of the wine when we visited. Many producers say they have problems working with this grape. With the limited sample size, the grape’s potential remains a mystery to us.

• Fikardos Spourtiko 2015

A very rare grape, oily and smokey with a touch of petrol. The flavors include lemon drops and onion. This is interesting with new flavors and nuances that will satisfy the experimental palates.   3.3/5

Viognier

While driving through the country, going winery to winery, we had a thought. It seemed like the terrain and climate would be perfect for white Rhône varieties. If producers were struggling with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, perhaps it’s worthwhile to give Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier a try?

Later in the trip, we got the answer to our question. We tasted two excellent examples of Viognier. The wines were very well made and would make any discerning palate happy. Perhaps Rhône white grapes wouldn’t be as “sexy” as other French grapes on the local market, but we feel they would make infinitely better wine.

• Argyrides Viognier 2015

Full of white peach, apple, lemon, white flower, and mineral notes. The wine is very ripe and full, oily and packed with flavors. There are multiple layers of flavors and the mouthfeel is nice. The finish has a bitter flower component. This wine was drunk over dinner and was a big hit among everyone present.   4.2/5

• Ezousa Viognier 2016

On the lees for four months. This is Ezousa’s best wine in my opinion, while Charine is more partial to their mineral-driven Xynisteri. The wine is not intense on the nose but white peach, yogurt, and white flower are present. The end palate is very oily and viscous with a bitter orange peel finish. The acidity is lower for a white wine but it really works here with this grape. Very correct for the variety and delicious to boot.   4.1/5

You May Also Enjoy
George Kassianos: The Godfather Of Cypriot Wine
Vouni Panayia: Confidence In The Cypriot Wine Grapes
Your Cheat Sheet To The Wines Of Cyprus, Part 1
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Stay tuned to our website for more articles and videos about the wines of Cyprus.

Disclaimer: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post More than Xynisteri: Indigenous White Wine Grapes of Cyprus appeared first on Wine Travel.

George Kassianos is the president of the Cyprus Sommelier Association and the operations manager at Annabelle Hotel in Paphos, Cyprus. In February, together with Cyprus Tourism Organisation, Mr Kassianos put together a two-week long wine trip for us to research Cypriot wine and explore the culture of his motherland. In this interview, he shares with us about the past, present, and future of the wine from this special Aphrodite’s island.

• Thank you for taking the time to do this interview. Can you tell us about your background pertaining to wine?

It started in London when I was studying the oenology part of a Hotel Management course. I decided to learn more about wine by participating in Master Sommelier courses. I started working as a sommelier in 92 Park Lane, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in London. My hotel career began at Annabelle Hotel as an Assistant Food & Beverage Manager. The wine culture started there back in the 90s. Although I left Annabelle in 2005, I came back as the Operations Manager in 2012, a position I still hold today. In 2008, I became the President of the Cyprus Sommelier Association. We currently have the opportunity to host the ASI “Best Sommelier of Europe” competition.

___________________________

“Wineries need to move toward maintaining their own vineyards. Investing in young, educated winemakers and viticulturists should be a priority.”

___________________________

• Tell us more about the history of Cypriot wine.

The history of winemaking in Cyprus can be traced back to 6,000 years ago. In 2005, a team of archaeologists concluded that the wine jars that were discovered in Erimi in the 1930s were the oldest of their kind in the world dating back to 3,500 BC. This suggests that the first wines of the Mediterranean area were produced in Cyprus, long before the existence of the Paphos mosaics that depicts Dionysus, the god of wine. It is believed that the Egyptians and Phoenicians brought wine to Cyprus, but it was the Greeks that developed winemaking on the island. The sweet wine of Cyprus called Nama was praised by Homer and Hesiod.  The wine was popular during the Roman period too with references from visitors and historians.

In the past, there were not many references to winemaking in Cyprus. This all changed when the Crusaders came to Cyprus in the 12^th century. They increased the production of Nama and renamed it ‘Commandaria’. It became the most sought-after wine in Europe and a valuable export commodity for the island.  It flourished under the Lusignan and Venetian rule and was heavily exported.

Wine production suffered under the Ottomans. Heavy taxation to vineyard owners and wine production resulted in the destruction of many vineyards. British occupation in 1878 brought a revival to the winemaking industry. The largest wineries of the island—EKTO, KEO, SODAP, and LOEL—were founded after this time.

Cyprus was never affected by phylloxera, Consequently, the demand for Cyprus’s grapes and wines combined with the relatively high prices resulted in a mini boom for the industry. Further demand in the early 20th century came from local consumption and from the regional forces of Britain and France in the Middle East. Cyprus was producing good-quality cheap wine and brandy, and the big four companies prospered as a result. The next big export product came in the form of Cyprus Sherry. Cyprus was exporting millions of liters to the UK and the Soviet Union during this time.

The 20th century brought the protection of the Sherry name and the collapse of the Soviet Union. This devastated the local wine industry in the 1990’s. In response to the challenges faced by the industry, the Cyprus Vine Products Commission began its efforts to overhaul the sector in order to help it survive. Reforms were intended to improve the quality rather than quantity of wine. Three initiatives were launched:

1. New international varieties of grapes were introduced and financial incentives were given for their cultivation. The varieties introduced were considered more suitable for quality wine production and more palatable to overseas markets. This led to the pulling of many local grapevines.
2. Incentives were given to create small regional wineries with a production capacity of 50,000 to 300,000 bottles per year.  This was intended to promote better quality wines by reducing the distance grapes have to travel from vineyards to wineries. The big four wineries were located in the large port cities of Limassol and Paphos, so vine growers were forced to transport their grapes for miles in the summer heat. Often, the fermentation process had already begun during transport. This also helped maintain the village population in the vine-cultivating regions.
3. A new Appellation of Origin system was launched in 2007.

___________________________

“Euripides called it the ‘Cyprus Nama,’ the nectar of gods.”

___________________________

• Cyprus wine industry has come a long way. What does it need in order to move forward?

The future lies on Cyprus’s indigenous varieties.  Cyprus needs more white wine varieties like Spourtiko, Promara, and Morokanella. The reds Maratheftiko and Yiannoudi show promise. We need to aim more in the €5 to €15 bracket and avoid the low-cost wines. Wineries need to move toward maintaining their own vineyards. Investing in young, educated winemakers and viticulturists should be a priority.

• And what inhibits the progress of the Cyprus wine industry?   

Here are a few things that I’ve noticed. The imported wines are better and cheaper in some cases. The vineyard situation; many vines have been uprooted. Existing vineyards required high cost to maintain and there are too many owners due to inheritance laws. On top of these, no one wishes to work in the vineyards anymore. The high cost of production and labor is a concern. This affects the competitiveness of Cyprus wines abroad. In addition to these, many wineries have no successors and are sold to foreign entrepreneurs. This obviously doesn’t contribute to the development of winemaking tradition.

• What is the most famous wine of Cyprus?

It is Commandaria, a delicious dessert wine with natural amber-honey color. It is the oldest wine in Cyprus and—thankfully—still in production today. This unique wine is produced from mature, sun-dried grapes of the varieties called Xinisteri and Mavro, and then aged in oak for a minimum of two years. Commandaria is produced in only 14 villages located on the slopes of the Troodos Mountains. The beginning of this wine is said to date back to the time of the ancient Greeks, 4,000 years ago, when it was a popular drink at festivals that celebrated the goddess of Love and Beauty, Aphrodite. Euripides called it the ‘Cyprus Nama,’ the nectar of gods. The name ‘Commandaria’ however dates back to the crusades in the 12^th century. It was greatly enjoyed at the wedding of Richard the Lionheart and he pronounced it as “the Wine of Kings and the King of Wines”.

• What was your first Cypriot wine? 

Of course, it was Commandaria. It was the only Cypriot wine I was proud of in the early 80s. When I came back to Cyprus in 1989, the KEO Heritage (the first Maratheftiko) and Ayios Andronicos (the first Xynisteri/Xinisteri from high-altitude vines) drew my attention. After tasting those wines, I knew that Cyprus wine has a great future.

• We love Xynisteri wine made from high-altitude grapes too. What is your favorite food and wine pairing?

My favorite of recent memory was grilled sea bass with red wine sauce and aubergines paired with a Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2001 from Barossa (Australia) and a Makkas Syrah 2007 (Cyprus) in a Riedel Riesling glass at 16°C.

• That’s a great pairing! It must be interesting to see how the Cypriot Syrah shows up next to a big-name Shiraz from Barossa. What can Cyprus offer that other wine countries can’t?

The uniqueness of its indigenous grapes and excellent sweet wines.

Annabelle Hotel, Paphos, Cyprus

Play the video below to check out some of the highlights of the evening:

Related
Vouni Panayia: Confidence in the Cypriot Wine Grapes
Your Cheat Sheet to the Wines of Cyprus, Part I
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine

Stay tuned to our website for more in-depth articles and videos on the Cypriot wine scene.

Disclaimer: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews.

The post George Kassianos: The Godfather of Cypriot Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

We love wineries that showcase a country’s indigenous varieties. In Cyprus, about 80% of the vineyards are planted with ungrafted, native grape vines. Nearly every winery makes a wine out of the indigenous white grape Xynisteri. Increasingly, more producers are making red wine from the native grape Maratheftiko. However, most producers also have Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Shiraz in their portfolio.

Vouni Panayia: Championing Native Wine Grapes

Vouni Panayia is the only commercial winery that produces dry wines exclusively from indigenous varieties. The family winery was founded in 1987 by Andreas Kyriakides and it was one of the first private wineries in Cyprus.

The winery is located in the Panayia village in the Paphos District. The village is known as the hometown of Archbishop Makarios III, the first President of Cypriot democracy. The Vouni Panayia winery boasts a restaurant and a spectacular view of Mt. Panayia, which the winery is named after (Vouni means mountain). It is a large and modern-looking complex situated at 850 meters in elevation, but do not be mistaken: this is not an industrial winery, it is a family-owned business. Andreas’ home is right next to the winery.

Now, the next generation is ready to instill a new sense of vigor in the winery, bringing along with them not just passion but also academic knowledge to be combined with Andreas’s grasp of tradition and experience. Andreas’ sons Yiannis and Petros Kyriakides graduated from a viticulture and oenology school in Florence, Italy. The youngest son Petros is currently enrolled in an agrotourism and hospitality faculty in Greece. We meet with Yiannis Kyriakides, the eldest brother for our visit.

Yiannis is on the right and Andreas, his father and the founder of Vouni Panayia, is on the left.

At the age of 29, Yiannis is markedly level-headed and clear about the direction of his family business. Yiannis shows us around the grounds, winery, and cellar. The facilities are clean, minimal, and functional in design. The restaurant is open to reservations only and uses local, seasonal ingredients to prepare traditional Cypriot dishes for the guests. We do not have a reservation for dining this time and hope to experience the food here on a future visit to Cyprus.

The wines of Vouni Panayia are made of grapes harvested from 25 hectares of estate-owned vineyards and about 20 hectares of contracted vineyards. The estate’s vineyards are located in the Troodos mountains. The vineyards enjoy a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and summers cooled by the mountains. At Troodos, soil composition range from volcanic to limestone and clay. Vouni Panayia’s vineyards possess mostly clay to gypsum-clay structural composition, which helps to retain water in the dry condition of Cyprus. The vineyards are at 1,150 meters in elevation.

“The top of the mountain is a plateau covered in vines,” says Yiannis.

We would later discover that it is an all-dirt track to the plateau and the mountaintop is indeed blanketed in vines—enigmatic-looking, old bush vines. The vineyards on top of the mountain are truly a sight to behold (the article’s feature photo is a shot from the top of the mountain). The indigenous varieties grown by Vouni Panayia include Xynisteri (Xinisteri), Spourtiko, Promara, Mavro, Maratheftiko, and Yiannoudi. Like all the vines in Cyprus, these vines are grown on its original roots as American rootstocks are not required since Cyprus was never affected by phylloxera.

Currently, the Vouni Panayia winery produces eight styles of wine—three dry whites, one medium-dry white, one rosé, and three dry reds. The total annual production is around 300,000 bottles. The winery is in the process of getting certified as an organic producer.

The Wines of Vouni Panayia

Yiannis leads us through a tasting of the entire portfolio and mini verticals of the red wine Barba Yiannis (Maratheftiko) and white wine Promara. The 2014 Promara is the only Cypriot wine to have won a Gold medal at the 2016 Decanter Awards. All the examples range from very good to outstanding.

The Vouni Panayia’s Maratheftiko is the softest Maratheftiko we’ve tasted among all the Cypriot producers. The Promara is so unique that we have to taste it over and over again before finalizing our notes. But what really captures our attention is the Yiannoudi.

Besides wines, the winery also produces other traditional grape products such as Zivania (Cypriot spirit), epsima (concentrated grape juice), soutzioukos (candle-shaped candy made with nuts and grape juice), palouzes (grape jelly), and jams.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

• Vouni Panayia Promara 2015

Vouni Panayia is the only producer of Promara wine. This wine spent three months on the lees in French oak. Flavors of yogurt, lemon, melon, soybean, wet stone, and white flower. Nice weight and oiliness on the palate. This wine will be a lot better after at least another year in the bottle. A unique and bright wine.

At the recent 17th Thessaloniki International Wine Competition, the 2014 Promara received a gold medal and 2015 Promara a silver. We also tasted the 2013 vintage and found the 2015 to have more interesting characteristics.

Yiannis is a believer in the potential of Promara. “It seems that this variety is a gem,” he says.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Feb 6, 2017 at 10:01am PST

• Vouni Panayia Barba Yiannis 2013

Made from 100% Maratheftiko grapes from vines with an average age of 70 years old. Aged for 12 months in barrel and 12 months in bottle. Notes of mushroom, forest floor, black plum, blackberry, coffee rub, geranium, and graphite. Medium-plus body with a juicy mouthfeel. 

We also tasted the 2014 vintage. The tannins in 2013 are much more integrated in comparison. The 2014 has more pyrazine, white pepper and spice notes to it.

• Vouni Panayia Yiannoudi 2014

 Made from 100% Yiannoudi. Aged 12 months in French oak and 12 months in the bottle. There are currently three other producers making varietal wine from Yiannoudi grapes—KEO, Tsiakkas, and Vasilikon. The Yiannoudi vines of Vouni Panayia are merely 6 years old. This wine expresses notes of cream soda, licorice, blackberry, blueberry, and graphite. Medium weight on the palate with ripe tannins that give a little tug from the front palate till the end. A spike of black fruit, pencil shaving, and graphite notes that finishes off the end palate.

To Matt, this reminds him of Syrah; and to Charine, Zinfandel. A charismatic wine that shows off the potential of Yiannoudi as a variety. We look forward to tasting future vintages of this wine as the vines gain more age.

Bright Future

Vouni Panayia is one of the heavyweights in the Cypriot wine industry. Their focus on native grapes has garnered much respect and attention in the country. All the examples we’ve tasted from this winery are well crafted and we are confident about presenting their wines to wine professionals (and we are planning to). Their wines are a must-try on a visit to Cyprus.

“In my opinion, it is only through the indigenous varieties that the wine sector in Cyprus can move forward,” says Yiannis.

And if that’s the case, the indigenous varieties and wine sector in Cyprus are both in good hands.

Related
Your Cheat Sheet To The Wines Of Cyprus, Part I
Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine

Stay tuned to our website for more in-depth articles and videos on the Cypriot wine scene.

Disclaimer: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Vouni Panayia: Confidence in the Cypriot Wine Grapes appeared first on Wine Travel.

Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean with an area of 9,251 square kilometers. Situated at the northeastern end of the Mediterranean basin, the country lies at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Due to its geographical position, Cyprus’s history is marked by turbulence and its culture is shaped by different influences—from the Greeks to Phoenicians, Assyrians, Venetians, French, Ottomans, and British.

The rich history of Cyprus is accompanied by the grapevines. Winemaking in Cyprus has enjoyed historical continuity through a period of more than 5,000 years. Today, wine continues to play a role in the Cypriot identity. The country offers a panorama of wine history that puts it—not in the Old World or New World but—in the ‘Ancient World’ of wine.

15 Pointers to Get You Acquainted with the Wines of Cyprus

Here are a few pointers to get you started on the wines of Cyprus. Stay tuned to our website for more articles and videos on the Cypriot wine scene.

• Before 1991, Cyprus used to produce 300 million liters of wine; most of the Cypriot wine was exported to the Soviet Union. Today, the production has dropped to about one-tenth of that.

• Like the former Eastern Bloc, Cyprus’s wine industry had to reinvent itself following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the consequent waning demand for cheap, low-quality wines. The final blow came in 1996 when a new EU directive made it illegal for any fortified wines made outside Jerez to assume the title of sherry. Cyprus gave up its ability to market certain wines as sherry, which further stimulated the drastic restructuring of the Cyprus’s wine industry.

• On 1 May 2004, the country became a full member of the European Union. To bring the wine industry in line with the membership, a controlled appellation scheme was developed. With the collapse of its main export market in the Soviet Union, Cyprus was severely affected by the EU’s Vine Pull Schemes. Many of the old vines were pulled and many vineyards were abandoned as a result.

• Today, the average age of the vines in Cyprus is around 50 to 60 years old. More than 90% of the vines are goblet-trained.

• The emergence of high-quality Cypriot wine reached its tipping point about six years ago, the same time when wine bars started appearing in the cities of Cyprus.

• Cyprus escaped the phylloxera plague, so its rootstocks remain ungrafted; although sometimes, international varieties may be grafted onto the roots of local varieties (where both varieties belong to Vitis vinifera).

• The climate is predominantly Mediterranean. Climate hazards are mostly hail and frost in higher-elevation vineyards. Humidity level is low though some areas have its own microclimate that can develop Botrytis cinerea.

• Cyprus has some of the highest vineyards in Europe, reaching over 1,400 meters above sea level.

• Commandaria—the luscious, sweet wine of Cyprus—is said to be the first wine in history to receive the protection of name and geographical origin. In the 13th to 14th centuries, the Cypriot wine, along with other sweet wines from the east and Italy, fetched higher prices in the English market than the wines of France.

• Up until the late 1980s, almost all the Cypriot wines were made by wineries located near the docks of Limassol or Paphos, namely the big four: Etko, Keo, Loel, and Sodap. Today, the market is wonderfully diverse with over 60 registered wineries. Among those are two registered organic producers and more than a handful of the wineries are run by academically trained viticulturists and enologists.

• Generally, the people in Cyprus do not enjoy oak-induced flavors in wine. As such, you’ll find the market dominated by fresh, unoaked whites (made from the local variety Xynisteri) and reds (usually a blend of local and international varieties). The Cypriots also love both rosés and reds that are slightly tannic.

• The total number of indigenous varieties is estimated to be around 70, although only 20 have been registered so far. The indigenous varieties you’ll likely come across are Maratheftiko, Mavro, Morokanella, Ofthalmo, Promara, Spourtiko, Xynisteri, and Yiannoudi. While not entirely indigenous, another variety to look out for is Lefkada. Called Vertzami in Greece, the Lefkada vines arrived in Cyprus in 1956 from the island of Lefkada in Greece. As a variety, Vertzami is mostly used as a blending grape in Greece. However, in Cyprus, you’ll get a chance to try Lefkada as a monovarietal wine.

• Among the international varieties, Shiraz/Syrah is regarded as the best suited for the Cyprus’s climate, although we’ve encountered more interesting Cabernet Sauvignon wines (than Shiraz) that can take on some of its counterparts from California. Other popular international grapes that you can find in Cyprus: Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Chardonnay, Mataro/Mourvedre, Merlot, Muscat of Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon.

• There are currently seven “Wine Routes of Cyprus” and they are Laona-Akamas, Vouni Panagias-Ampelitis, Diarizos Valley, Krasochoria of Lemesos, Commadaria, Pitsilia, and Lanarka-Lefkosia.

• Generally, wine prices at the cellar are between €5 and €18, while some vintage Commandaria and sweet wine can go up to €80. The quality-price ratio is startling and, together with its organoleptic merits, makes Cypriot wine a real treat whether you’re a connoisseur or casual wine drinker.

Navigating Cyprus

Language
The official languages are Greek and Turkish. English is widely spoken.

Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels and guesthouses in most of the towns and villages along the wine routes.

Eat
Visit the tavernas for unique local dishes. More information about the Cypriot cuisine and wine-and-food pairing tips will be available in future articles.

Getting There
More than 30 airlines operate scheduled flights from and to

1. Larnaca International Airport
– 8 km from Larnaca (Larnaka)
– 50 km from Nicosia (Lefkosia)
– 70 km from Limassol (Lemesos)
– 50 km from Agia Napa
– 140 km from Paphos (Pafos)

2. Paphos Airport
– 15 km from Paphos (Pafos)
– 63 km from Limassol (Lemesos)
– 130 km from Larnaca (Larnaka)
– 50 km from Polis
– 142 km from Nicosia (Lefkosia)

Connect with Us!

If you enjoy this rundown on the wines of Cyprus, please subscribe to our newsletter and follow our social media platforms to receive more updates, including tasting notes and specific producers in Cyprus to look out for. We tasted over 200 Cypriot wines from 30 different producers to filter out the best for you!

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Facing Our Fears: Cypriot Wine

Disclosure: Our trip was partially sponsored by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, The Annabelle Hotel (Paphos), and Saint Elena Hotel (Larnaca). A few wineries provided us tasting samples, but most of them simply gave us their time. The opinions expressed in this article are our own and we are under no obligation to give favorable reviews. 

The post Your Cheat Sheet to the Wines of Cyprus, Part I appeared first on Wine Travel.