Vertical tasting is a powerful tool. It is a way to peer into the winery’s past, present, and future.

With travel restricted around the world at the beginning of this year, opportunities to do large vertical tastings don’t come up often. That’s why I was thrilled when Pinino reached out to me to taste their wines.

I met Elena Gamon on Clubhouse. Elena’s family (of Austrian descent) purchased Pinino with Spaniard Max Hernandez in 2003. Located in Montalcino, Pinino farms 16 hectares, mostly dedicated to Sangiovese. The produce Rosso di Montalcino along with three different Brunello di Montalcinos.

Pinino Wines

Brunello di Montalcino is born from high elevation vineyards (sometimes up to 600 meters (almost 2000 feet) and must be aged for at least four years before release (five years for the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva). It’s often recommended to cellar the wines for at least ten years before enjoying them. I’ve found myself enjoying young Brunello lately, especially since the recent releases come from a string of excellent vintages.

“The 2016 and 2015 vintage for Brunello is outstanding, while we are equally excited about 2019,” Elena said.

From tasting the wines, I share her enthusiasm for the three vintages. The 2015 & 2016s from Pinino are brilliant (as well as the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino). They share the same characteristics of other Brunellos I’ve had from these vintages, a brilliant dance between fruit, tannin, and acidity. I suspect that the 2016 might be more long-lived but only time will tell.

I was impressed with every wine in the Pinino portfolio. The best thing about these wines is the value for money. Wine-Searcher shows an average price of 42 USD for the Pinino Brunello di Montalcino and 19 USD for the Rosso di Montalcino. Both are exceedingly fair prices for this prestigious Tuscan appellation. And wile the reserve wines from Pinino are delicious, I highly recommend the standard Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino if you’re looking to get the maximum bang for your buck.

*For those that prefer video, you can check out my thoughts of the Pinino, Bruello di Montalcino 2013, 2015, and 2016 below.

Wine Recommendations:

• Pinino, Rosso di Montalcino 2019

All three of these Rosso di Montalcino’s from Pinino are made from 100% Sangiovese aged for 10 months in wood. It has a gorgeous, bright nose of sour cherry, rose petal, and a touch of licorice and cedar. This is very complex for a wine of this price point. Medium-bodied, this is fruity on the palate. There’s nothing that gets in the way here. There is a slight licorice finish with subtle tannins. This is a wonderful effort at this price point. Score: 90+/100

• Pinino, Rosso di Montalcino 2018

It smells oakier than the other vintages I’m tasting in this set. Notes of wood, cherry, and earth notes with just a touch of mushroom. The wood bothered me a little on the nose but the palate gives way to a wine that is complex with a lot to offer. The red fruit and sweet cedar flavors come together on a full-bodied red with round tannins. Score: 90/100

• Pinino, Rosso di Montalcino 2017

This is already showing some age and there are notes of dried cherry, tobacco, cedar, leather, and earth. The fruit has fallen off some here, it’s still a wonderful wine but for those who want more savory characteristics. It is a fuller-bodied Rosso di Montalcino with chewy tannins. Drink this up now, don’t leave it in the cellar any longer. Score: 89/100

• Pinino, Brunello di Montalcino 2016 

The three standard Brunello di Montalcino wines from Pinino are 100% Sangiovese aged for 30 months in wood. This is still a baby with a lot of life left ahead of it. Notes of sour cherry, licorice, tobacco, and a touch of pepper. The is an elegant wine with class. It’s medium-bodied and blends the right amount of earth, fruit, and peppery notes. The tannins are plentiful but they are ripe and welcome. This should turn out to be a killer wine yet it’s so darn delicious now. Score: 94/100

• Pinino, Brunello di Montalcino 2015

The fruit is a nice blend between fresh sour cherry and dried cherry fruits. There are also notes of sweet cedar, chewing tobacco, and earth. In just a few years, the wine has put on nice weight. It’s round and creamy in the mouth. The tannins come in pretty strong and grip the palate. This has a long life ahead of it. If you’re drinking it now, make sure to pair it with a big piece of meat. Score: 93+/100

• Pinino, Brunello di Montalcino 2013

The savory and leather notes come out first here along with notes of dried cherry, dried red plum, violets, and cigar box. The time in the bottle has added weight to this wine. It’s rich and creamy on the palate. The tannins still come on strong, suggesting this could develop and improve even more. Right now, I love where this is at, just have some meat handy. Score: 94/100

• Pinino, ‘Pinone’ Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012

This ‘Pinone’ Brunello di Montalcio Riserva is 100% Sangiovese aged for 36 months in wood. Notes of dried cherry, dried raspberry, mushroom, bay leaf, and tobacco. Full-bodied and rich, this is layered and full of complexity. There are dried fruit notes with sandy tannins. Despite the development, there is a pretty floral undertone here. This is exactly what I expect from outstanding Brunello di Montalcino. Score: 95/100

• Pinino, ‘Vigna Pinino’ Brunello di Montalcino 2015

This is the first vintage of this wine, only 1000 bottles made. The Pinino, ‘Vigna Pinino’ Brunello di Montalcino is a traditional Tuscan red through and through. Honestly, I was turned off by this at first but with air, it started to sing. Notes of dark chocolate, leather, dried cherry, dried plum, pepper. Medium-bodied and layered. There is a lot of complexity with ripe tannins and a long finish. Score: 93+/100

The wines above were sent as samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Pinino Brunello di Montalcino: A Vertical Tasting appeared first on Wine Travel.

When it comes to my first true wine love, Italy holds my heart.

In normal years, I’m in Italy at least five times per year. Thanks to the worldwide situation, that number went down significantly in 2020 and the first part of 2021 (hopefully that changes in Q3 and Q4). The lack of travel meant that I did most of my tastings at home.

My Italian Wine Story

My love for Italian wine began with my first trip to Europe during a backpacking trip in graduate school. During that summer, my friends and I stopped in the walled city of Lucca (Tuscany). We ordered a liter of house wine made from Sangiovese.

Until then, I had only been drinking cheap, supermarket wines in America. I poured myself a glass of that house wine and just smelled the glass for five minutes straight. My friends looked at me like I was crazy. The aroma of that wine has stuck to me until this day.

As I started to grow up in the wine world and eventually work in it, my love for Italian wine never waivered. In fact, it became stronger. The mind-boggling amount of grape varieties and styles of wine in the country captures the attention of myself and wine lovers the world over. You could dedicate your entire life to Italian wine and still not cover everything the country has to offer.

If you want to learn about Italian wine, get out there and taste as much as you can. With the quality rising throughout the country, now is a better time than ever. Here are the best Italian wines that I tasted in the first half of 2021.

Italian Wine Recommendations:

• Roberto Mazzi, ‘Sanperetto’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2018

A blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara, and Rondinella aged in oak for 12 months. There’s a brilliant nose here of blueberry, red cherry, and subtle hints of earth and dark chocolate. There are not wood flavors but the oak definitely adds to the texture. Medium-bodied and juicy with a subtle earthy finish. This isn’t the most complex wine in the world but this hits my palate just right. It’s very enjoyable and should pair great with a variety of pasta. Score: 91/100

• Roberto Mazzi, ‘Poeiega’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2017

This is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara. It’s made from late-harvested grapes that are laid out to dry for 40 days. Like a baby Amarone, it’s also aged for 24 months in wood. This is a little dusty on the nose at first but it starts to unveil with air. There are notes of black cherry, dark chocolate, forest pine, and a hint of pepper. It’s round and silky on the palate with some rich fruit. An attractive tangerine-like acidity runs through the center of the palate. The tannins offer just a little grip in the cheeks. Delicious on its own or with food. Score: 90/100

• Roberto Mazzi, ‘Castel’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015

Single-vineyard Amarone. A blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara dried for 100 days and aged in wood for 36 months. This is a savory, quintessential Amarone with notes of leather, dark chocolate, dried cherry, and tobacco. Full-bodied and rich, this is round and intense on the palate with chewy tannins. The fruit is rich at first but ends up being lighter on its feet thanks to the racey acidity that slices down the palate. It’s big at 16.5% alcohol but you don’t feel the hit and the acidity washes the palate clean. Score: 93/100

• Scarbolo, Refosco 2013

This is Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso made with partially dried grapes and aged in wood. This is a red that smells and tastes a lot younger than its age suggests. Notes of red forest fruit, meat, leather, cigar box, and pepper. It’s full-bodied and round on the palate, the fruit coats the mouth well. This grape can have a problem with too much acidity but that’s kept in check here. Lengthy, tart cherry-like finish. Score: 92/100

• Scarbolo, Mattia (Beyond Pinot) 2016

This is barrel-aged Pinot Grigio. Notes of slate, pineapple, red apple, white peach, white flower. The wood integration here is perfect. The wood never takes over the wine, it just adds structure and a sandy texture. There’s enough acidity here to keep the wine zippy. Long finish. Score: 91/100

• Paitin, ‘Campolive’ Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2017 

This is 100% Barbera aged in wood. It’s an ambitious red with notes of tobacco, dried cherry, mocha, dried cranberry, and earth – incredibly complex. The palate is loaded with bright red fruit. The tannins are fine and the acidity stretches out the finish. The acidity is high here so it probably would be best with food. It’s got all the goods to age in the cellar too. Top-notch Barbera. Score: 91+/100  

• Paitin, ‘Ca Veja’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2017

The ‘Ca Veja’ is 100% Nebbiolo. Gorgeous nose of leather, dried rose petal, cranberry, and tobacco. The palate is delicate with a great balance between savory notes of bright red fruits. There are many layers here. The tannins hit hard in the back end like all Nebbiolos. The finish is long and refined. At this price point, stock this up, throw it in the cellar, and watch the magic happen. Score: 91+/100 

• Paitin, ‘Serraboella’ Barbaresco 2017 

This is a generous and fruity Barbaresco. It’s a plush, easy-to-drink Barbaresco. Notes of dried cherry, dried cranberry, mocha, and tar are present here. The front palate is so round and plush, there’s plenty of fruit up front with the typical Nebbiolo complexities on the back end. The tannins here are very soft for a young Barbaresco, making this a crowd-pleaser. Yes, this can age but it’s so darn delicious now. Score: 93/100

• Paitin, ‘Sorì Paitin’ Barbaresco 2017

From a specific plot in the Serraboella vineyard. This is a bit tighter and shyer than the standard Barbaresco from Paitin. It’s more on the earthy side than its sibling. The perfume, rose petal, and tar stands out here with fresh cranberry and sour cherry fruit. It’s more savory and linear on the palate than the standard Serraboella Barbaresco. The tannins are bigger here too. This is a wine to lie down in the cellar and let it mature and develop. It should be a blockbuster with time, be patient. Score: 94/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Trèsüri’ Barolo 2017

I loved the previous vintage of this wine. It’s a blend of three vineyards. The leather and tar stand out here up front along with the mocha, dried cherry, and cranberry notes. There’s plenty of earthiness here along with the fruit, it very much acts like a red Burgundy. The medley of tobacco, red fruit, and earth go together perfectly in the palate before the tannins hit hard. Another beautiful, standard Barolo. Score: 92/100

• Mauro Sebaste, ‘Cerretta’ Barolo 2017

This is a single vineyard Barolo from the Serralunga commune. Impressive nose of earth, leather, red cherry, fresh cranberry, and mocha. This is a rich Barolo. It’s generous upfront with plenty of fruit. It’s all fruit on the front end and all earthiness on the backend. Ripe tannins that add just a touch of grip. Long finish. This has a future ahead of it but is also delicious now. Bravo on another great effort from Mauro Sebaste. Score: 94/100 

• Fattoria della Aiola, Chianti Classico Riserva 2017

Mostly Sangiovese aged for 24 months in oak. This is a deep and rich Chianti Classico with notes of black cherry, sour cherry, soil, and plenty of tobacco. The nose is really complex. The palate is brighter than the nose would suggest. I thought at first it might be too ripe but the plenty of red fruit and gorgeous, tangy acidity grace the palate. The tannins here are a little bigger than the standard Chianti Classico but are in no way too much. This is a structured effort that should do well with time in the bottle. Score: 92/100

• Fattoria della Aiola, ‘Cancello Rosso’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017

This is mostly Sangiovese aged in wood for 30 months. There are more notes from the wood in this wine than the previous two but it’s not overdone. Sweet cedar, tobacco, pepper, and earth accompany the sour cherry flavors. The palate is layered and complex but it needs more time in the bottle for the wood to melt in. Ripe tannins and a long finish. I prefer the Chianti Classico Riserva a little more at this point but the Cancello Rosso should prove to be the better wine in the long haul. Score: 92+/100 

• Monterotondo, Vigna Vaggliota Chianti Classico 2017

This is a beautiful wine that is mostly Sangiovese with some Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera. Beautiful notes of sour cherry, baking spice, sweet cedar, and leather. Medium-bodied with plenty of tangy acidity. The red fruit and earth flavors are held together but citrusy acidity. Tannins add just a touch of grip. Score: 91+/100

• Monterotondo, ‘Vigna Seretina’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2016

This is mostly Sangiovese with a touch of Malvasia Nera. This is a bigger Chianti Classico with notes of black cherry, mocha, tobacco, and dried spices. Full-bodied and complex. This has a wonderful balance of fruit and earthy notes. The wood is integrated perfectly here, it adds a little bit of seasoning but never masks the wine. Round tannins and a long finish. Score: 93+/100

• Boscarelli, ‘Il Nocio’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

This is 100% Sangiovese. Gorgeous nose of sour cherry, crushed flowers, earth, tobacco, and a touch of leather. It’s a medium-bodied red with a lot of nuances. The fruit isn’t the focus here, it’s the layers and complexity. The tannins coat the mouth perfectly, they are grippy but not too drying. Citrusy acidity guides the long finish. This is a real winner from this fabulous producer. Score: 94+/100

• Boscarelli, ‘Costa Grande’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015

100% Sangiovese. Noted of black cherry, chewing tobacco, leather, earth, and a touch of menthol. The nose is a tad shy but the flavors explode on the palate. The wine has a great mix of fruit and savory notes. The concentration of the fruit and flavors is excellent. There are many layers to this wine with mouth-coating tannins. It still can improve with time in the bottle. Long finish. This is all about mouthfeel and the most impressive wine I’ve tasted from Boscarelli. Score: 95/100

• Boscarelli, ‘Sotto Casa’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015

This is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot. This is a denser Vino Nobile. There is a core of black cherry, chewing tobacco, cassis, graphite, and a touch of earth. This is full-bodied and very complex. This is plush on the palate with a silky quality to it thanks to the Merlot. Round tannins. Score: 93+/100

• Salcheto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2017 

The Vino Nobile from Salcheto is 100% Sangiovese and it shows a nice touch of wood. The wood shows up the form of sweet cedar along with flavors of sour cherry, red raspberry, and leather. It’s full-bodied red, with roundness from time in the barrel. The acidity here is bright and the tannins are pretty grippy, so make sure to have some meat handy. Long finish. Score: 91/100

• Salcheto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2016

This Vino Nobile Riserva is 100% Sangiovese aged in wood. Notes of sour cherry, black cherry, graphite, tobacco, and menthol. It’s full-bodied and round on the palate. This is more focused on fruit than the standard Salcheto, Vino Nobile. The wine has big, round tannins with stellar oak integration. This is a crowd-pleaser. Score: 91+/100

• Salcheto, Biskero Chianti 2020

This is mostly Sangiovese with small amounts of Caniaolo, Mammolo, and Merlot. It’s a beautiful, inexpensive red wine with plenty of sour cherry, earth, and pepper flavors. What’s impressive for this wine at this price point is the texture. It doesn’t feel like a thin, cheap red. There’s plenty of fruit with soft tannins and a respectable finish for a wine at this price. Score: 89/100

*This wine is a steal at around 12 USD a bottle.

• Camerani. ‘Corte Sant’Alda’ Soave 2019

A gorgeous, easy-drinking Soave with notes of lemon, white peach, crushed rocks, and a touch of yogurt. This is a lighter white wine but one still with a hint of complexity. The fruit comes out on the nose but it’s the mineral and lemon notes on the end that pulls me in. This is a fabulous white at a good price point. Score: 90/100

• Inama, ‘Carbonare’ Soave Classico 2019

The Carbonanare is a rich Soave made from 100% Garganega. Notes of mineral, banana, white pear, and yogurt notes. It is aged in stainless steel but it has the mouthfeel and richness of a wine that was aged in oak. It doesn’t have the razor-sharp acidity that many Soave have but it does have complexity. It’s round and soft on the palate with a good bite in the mid-palate. Score 91/100

The wines above are samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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People love to support small, family-run wineries. But if you truly believe in fighting for the little guy, it’s time to give cooperative wineries a second look.

Cooperative Wineries

Cooperative wineries are joint ventures owned by several (up to hundreds) of members. The concept is simple, pool resources and costs for winemaking and marketing. The formation and rise of cooperatives in Europe happened after the 1930s. Members are made up of wine growers of various sizes that don’t have the knowledge or desire to bottle and market their own wine.

People would be surprised to know cooperative wineries are responsible for around 50% of all the wine produced in both Italy and France. In Spain and Portugal, those numbers can get closer to 60%. In Germany, fruit from about one-third of the countries vineyards ends up in cooperative wineries.

Cooperatives often have members that are small growers who work with unique or forgotten varieties. In essence, they become stewards of these unique grapes. Small producers may pull some of these varieties in favor of more marketable grapes.

When well run, cooperative wineries produce excellent wines at great prices. From everyday bottles to wines that can age in the cellar. I’ve had magical bottles from Italian cooperatives like Produttori del Barbaresco (Piedmont), Cantina Terlano & Cantina Tramin (Trentino-Alto Adige), and Santadi (Sardinia). These cooperatives make wine that can rival those from small producers around the world.

Cooperatives: Advantages

The trend in both food and wine is all about supporting the small farmer. In the wine industry, that is what cooperative wineries are all about. I’d like to see more awareness and support of cooperatives, especially those that are well run. They offer a scale and price points that individual estates might find hard to match.

Tessa Donnadieu, the Export Manager at the cooperative Vinchio Vaglio Serra, agrees. “I have been working for Italian coops for 11 years (before with Clavesana now Vinchio Vagiol Serra). I believe in the concept of community and the incredible potential of the wines,” she says.

Nicola Thornton bottles wine under her label Botas de Barro (muddy boots) in Spain. She thinks cooperative wineries have some distinct advantages in the marketplace. “Price, volume, quality. They (coops) are in the BEST position because of access to fruit in volumes that other producers would find hard to accumulate,” she says.

While many people equate vineyard attention and care with small private wineries. Nicola insists that the same kind of attention happens with growers that contribute to coops too. “Each farmer looks after his own vineyards on a relatively small scale and many have a special link and knowledge to each parcel, ” she adds.

But… Is The Wine Good?

All of this sounds great but we all want to know one thing. Is the wine delicious?

During my tastings in late 2020 and early 2021, I got the chance to reaffirm my assumptions. Cooperative wines run the gamut from easy and delicious to complex and serious. All of the wines tasted were well made with some I’d be proud to show to the most critical palates.

Here are some of my favorites from samples sent to me by Vinchio Vaglio Serra (Piedmont, Italy), Cantina Tramin (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy)., Pico Wines (Azores, Portugal), and Vignerons Catalans (Languedoc-Roussillon, France).

Wine Recommendations:

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barbaresco 2016

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra Barbaresco offers tremendous value. There are less than 6,000 bottles made from this cooperative. This is a very savory, denser Barbaresco. Notes of cherry, leather, fall leaves, mocha, and tobacco. Medium-bodied on the palate, the acidity is tamed on this wine. Tannins are grippy and not overly drying (like Nebbiolo can be). Good length. At this price point, you’re getting a developed, delicious Barbaresco. Shows a little more bottle age than the vintage suggests, so drink it up now. Score: 92/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barolo 2013

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barolo has some bottle development. Notes of dried rose petals, dried cherry, perfume, tobacco, and mocha. Very complex nose. While the nose makes me think it might be a massive, over-extracted Barolo, the palate is the complete opposite. There is a finesse and prettiness here that only Nebbiolo can give. Tannins are chewy but have softened a bit with bottle age and a dried citrus-peel acidity wraps up the finish. Very nice Barolo that’s in a good place now. A longer finish would push it to higher levels. Score: 91/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘I Tre Vescovi’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2018

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘I Tre Vescovi’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore is aged almost six months in large casks. Notes of cranberry, dried cherry, earth, and a little smokiness from the wood. The palate is much more elegant than the 14% would suggest. Sometimes these Barbera Superiore wines can get much too sappy or heavy. Bright fruit with some structure suggests this could develop even further in the cellar. Score: 89/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘La Leggenda’ Barbera d’Asti 2019

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘La Leggenda’ is a fun and easy-going Barbera. It’s straightforward with notes of cherry, sour cherry, cranberry, and a touch of olive. Nothing complex here, just fruit and fun. There’s a touch of earthiness and complexity here for a wine that didn’t see wood. The red fruits fill the palate and there’s just a faint hint of tannins. Don’t dismiss this wine by the score, this is a fabulous, low-cost bistro red that I’d be happy to sip on anyday. Score: 87/100

• Cantina Tramin, ‘Moriz’ Pinot Bianco 2020

The Cantina Tramin, ‘Moriz’ Pinot Bianco is a level above their standard Pinot Bianco. It has notes of melon, cantaloupe, white peach, and mineral notes. It’s a delicious and easy-going white wine. There is a nice interplay between the fruit and lemony acidity. A crowd-pleaser with enough complexity to keep seasoned palates happy and casual palates quenched. I’m almost never disappointed with Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige and this is no different. This is the type of white that I love to drink on a daily basis. Score: 90/100

• Cantina Tramin, Stoan 2019

The Cantina Tramin, Stoan is one of the winery’s high-end offerings. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Gewürtztraminer, and Pinot Bianco aged in large casks. A very unique white wine, there are notes of guava, kiwi, yellow flower, and chestnut. It smells like it would be full-bodied but the acidity here keeps the wine medium-bodied. The wood integration is flawless here, it doesn’t impart flavor but gives it body. The wine is good with length and structure but the flavors could be odd here, I do get some grassiness from the Sauvignon and the pungent floral notes from the Gewürtz along with the body of Chardonnay. It reminds me of a famous white wine called ‘Manna’ from Franz Haas. Score: 91/100

*Find Cantina Tramin bottles at Wine.com.

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Arinto dos Açores 2019

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Arinto dos Açores is a barrel-fermented Arinto that is aged for six months. Gorgeous nose of lemon, lavender, white flower, pineapple, and seawater. The oak integration here is outstanding. The wine has Riesling-like electricity on the palate. There’s a tension that stretches out the seriously salty finish. Brilliant white wine. Score: 93/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Verdelho 2018

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Verdelho is a varietal wine with 20% of the cuvée was barrel-fermented. Explosive nose of flint, lemon, smoke, and white flower. This wine is all about weight and rich texture. The fruit is neutral, mostly sticking to lemons. The salinity here is again intense. This would be great with oysters, very Chablis-esque. Score: 91/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terras de Lava Reserva 2017

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terras de Lava Reserva is a volcanic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc aged for 14 months in oak. The capsicum and smoke jump out of the glass. They are accompanied by intense tobacco notes and subtle black cherry flavors. Lighter in color for these two grapes. On the palate, the Cabernet Franc seems to dominate (which to me is a good thing). It’s a savory, leafy, and mineral-driven red with some slowly building tannins. Those looking for fruit look elsewhere. Those looking for leafy and earthy notes, feel right at home. Score: 90/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terrantez do Pico 2019

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terrantez do Pico is actually made from the grape Malvasia Fina. This wine is barrel-fermented and aged in old oak for six months. Gorgeous nose with intense complexity. It has flavors of lemon, slate, white peach, sea salt, flint, and apple blossom. Incredibly complex. The palate has richness and finesse that is very Chablis-esque. The long finish is like eating a salted lemon (before you do a shot of Tequila). Acid freaks will be right at home with this gorgeous effort. Score: 94+/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Grenache ‘l’Art et le Vin’ 2020

The Vignerons Catalans, Grenache ‘l’Art et le Vin’ is a special edition Grenache aged in vat before being bottled. Fresh red with notes of strawberry, smoked meat, rose petal, and pepper. For an inexpensive red, this is fantastic. There’s plenty of fruit with a meatiness and a peppery edge. It’s listed at 15.5% ABV but acts more like a medium-bodied red. This is friendly Mediterranean red that’s ready to drink right away. Score: 90/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Lesquerde Racine 2018

The Vignerons Catalans, Lesquerde Racine is a Côtes du Roussillon Villages and a blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache. Notes of blackberry, cherry, meat, and a touch of white pepper. It smells like a Southern French red in an easy-going style. Smooth on the entry and easy to drink. The tannins are rounded out well. Drink this with some bbq meats. Score: 88/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Saveurs d’Austrefois Gris 2020

The Vignerons Catalans, Saveurs d’Austrefois Gris is 100% Grenache Gris. There are subtle notes of strawberry, watermelon, parched earth, and tangerine peel. It’s a crisp and refreshing rosé with plenty of acidity to cut through the palate. Simple, fun, and unfussy. Highly recommended for a hot Summer day. Score: 89/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Pico Wines, Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Cantina Tramin, Vignerons Catalans provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Cooperative Wineries: High-Quality Wine At All Prices appeared first on Wine Travel.

Restoring a historic wine to its rightful place. That’s what Alliance Vinum is aiming for.

When it comes to the great wines of Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico are often the first names that come to mind. While one of the historic regions, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, is often forgotten. It’s unfortunate for a wine that Pope Paul III once dubbed as vino perfectissimo (perfect wine) in the 16th century.

Alliance Vinum: The New Vino Nobile

The Alliance Vinum is made of six producers: Avignonesi, Boscarelli, Dei, La Braccesca (Antinori), Poliziano, and Salcheto. They focus on producing high-quality, site-specific Sangiovese that ranks among the best red wines of Italy. They communicate this through a set of six single-vineyard, Cru wines that are made entirely of Sangiovese. This is unique because the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano regulations allow for 30% of grapes other than Sangiovese to be included in the blend. All six wines are grown in vineyards with a mixture of sand and clay.

Being a Sangiovese superfan, I couldn’t wait to taste these examples from the Alliance Vinum. Generally speaking, I do find a little more excitement in the normale Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino over standard Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. These Cru wines from the Alliance Vinum are something else, they show why Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is poised to rise again.

All six of these wines can stand next to the best in Tuscany. All of them represent a significant step up from the standard bottlings of the respective wineries. Too often, reserve wines around the world just mean more oak, that’s not the case here.

These wines from Alliance Vinum are riper styles of Sangiovese but they never feel jammy on the palate. The prettiness of the grape is preserved in all of these wines. They all offer plenty of structure with that distinctive Tuscan flair that Italian wine lovers like myself crave.

If you’re looking to taste a modern Italian Rennaissance, these wines are worth seeking out.

Wine Recommendations:

Avignonesi, ‘Poggetto di Sopra’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

The Avignonesi, ‘Poggetto di Sopra’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 is a single vineyard, 100% Sangiovese single-vineyard aged for 24 months in cask. The fruit here is pure and is allowed to show through. There are notes of leather, sour cherry, cigar ash, and earth. This strikes a fantastic balance between classic and modern Sangiovese. The wine feels medium-bodied in the mouth at first before the big-time tannins hit at the end. It has a long life ahead of it. If you love Tuscan reds, this is a must-buy. Score: 94+/100

Poliziano, ‘Le Caggiole’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

This is 100% Sangiovese. It has a ripe, generous nose of black cherry, tobacco, black raspberry, and sweet cedar. This is a great balanced between massive amounts of fruit with subtle earth notes and Tuscan flair. This is incredibly easy to drink and has a smooth mouthfeel that will make many palates happy. Great interplay between sweet fruit and acidity with round tannins. Tobacco flavors linger on the finish. Score: 93/100 

Cantina Dei, ‘Maddona della Querce’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

This is the reserve wine of the estate. When I first tasted it, there was plenty of wood but with air, this really started to shine. Notes of raspberry, tangerine peel, sour cherry, cedar, and pepper. Full-bodied with plenty of fruity and structure. This still has a lot of tannins, so make sure to have some food. Structured with a long finish. Score: 92/100

Salcheto, ‘Vecchie Viti Del Salco’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

This is 100% Sangiovese. It’s a beautiful, savory red wine. The leather and tobacco come out first before the fruit, which pulls me into the glass. Notes of dried cherry, rose petal, and cedar are among the other notes here. Full-bodied but not massive, there’s a lot of complexity here. There’s a spine of blood orange acidity that lifts the flavors of the palate. Round and supple tannins guide the long finish. Score: 94/100

Boscarelli, ‘Costa Grande’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 

This is 100% Sangiovese. There’s a great interplay of fruit and savory notes here. Plenty of sour cherry fruit is accompanied by well-worn leather, menthol, and sweet cedar. This is a full-bodied red that checks all the boxes for me. Complex? Yes. Fruity but not jammy? Yes. The tannins are ripe and add just a gentle grip. Juicy acidity guides the long finish. Score: 95/100

La Braccesca, ‘Maggiarino’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

This is 100% Sangiovese. It’s a riper take on this variety. Notes of red plum, cherry, cedar, leather, and a touch of rose petal. IT would be hard for me to call this Sangiovese in a blind tasting. This is made to be a crowd-pleaser. It’s full-bodied and silky with plenty of fruit up front. The tannins come and hit hard on the back end. Score: 92+/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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The Alliance Vinum provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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“I’ll reach out to you if I have more questions,” I can type into the Facebook chat. “If I can answer ☺️… ” Pietro responds.

I like him immediately. Pietro Arditi is the owner of a humble winery known as Cantine Valpane. Located in Piedmont (Italy), it’s a small, 11 hectare (27 acre) estate in Monferrato focusing on Barbera and other local varieties. Cantine Valpane is an under-the-radar estate, but when Kermit Lynch is your importer in the USA, that’s a big fat stamp of approval.

His wines are not fruity and explosive but savory and sensual. Still, they are no means austere, all have that Piemontese flair that I love. The estate produces mostly Barbera but Pietro is passionate about all the local grapes.

“I don’t have any particular preference (variety). I like to work with our autochthonous vines, the ones my grandfather used to cultivate,” Pietro says. “Each vine has its own characteristics. I produce more Barbera because it is better known and has a bigger market. Grignolino and Freisa are known by very few people and it is difficult to sell them.”

Barbera, Freisa, & Grignolino

The Barbera’s are excellent but the Grignolino and Freisa impress me deeply. In fact, the latter opens my eyes. Both of these grapes can be surprisingly Nebbiolo-esque with bottle age. “Freisa and Nebbiolo have the same DNA, in fact maybe Freisa is one of the daddies of Nebbiolo,” Pietro says.

Both grapes are produced to make young wines that the locals consume. However, ever since visiting Monferrato a few years ago, I’ve become enchanted with the varieties. When made delicately and with care, they can achieve similar floral, perfume, and tarry notes that make Nebbiolo so haunting.

If you’re a Northern Italian wine nut but the prices of Barolo and Barbaresco are getting you down, give these wines a try. All of them can be found around the world for around 20 USD (with the exception of the Cantina Valpane, Valpane). And if you see a bottle of Freisa with some bottle age, don’t hesitate on scooping it up.

Pietro closes our conversation with, “Many producers in my area plant Nebbiolo (actually, my grandfather also had some shoots) because it is a grape that has more of a market. Instead, I think that Freisa is ‘our’ Nebbiolo.”

• Cantine Valpane, Canone Iverso 2012

The Cantine Valpane, Canone Iverso is made from the grape Freisa. Usually, this grape is used in blends or made to be drunk young. This example is aged in stainless steel and bottle for several years. It has a very classic Piemontese nose with cherry, leather, hazelnuts, and dried strawberry. While the nose is very complex and has layers of savory notes and leather, the palate delivers a surprising jolt of red fruit. This is medium-bodied and has some big tannins but then again, it’s meant to be paired with braised meats. A complex take on an under-appreciated variety. Score: 90+/100

• Cantine Valpane, Euli 2017

The Cantine Valpane, Eurli is 100% Grignolino del Monferrato Caselese. It’s aged in stainless steel and concrete before being bottled. This is a variety that I’ve come to appreciate throughout the years. Light in color, there are flavors of raspberry, earth, white pepper, and a hint of dried strawberry. It’s not as floral as some examples I have come across. On the palate the forest red berries take over. It seems like an easy, juicy red but the tannins start to build with every sip. They are Nebbiolo-like. A very good example of this grape and it might blossom into something even greater. Score: 89/100

• Cantine Valpane, Euli 2015

Another vintage of this Grignolino. It’s aged in stainless steel and concrete before being bottled. This is starting to show some brilliant bottle age. Notes of raspberry, sour cherry, and a hint of forest mushrooms. Some might think it’s Pinot Noir thanks to the color. The palate is layered and delicate. It acts very much like a Pinot Noir at first until the tannins start to build. Lengthy finish, this may be the best example of the grape that I’ve tasted. Score: 91/100 

• Cantine Valpane, Rosso Pietro 2017

The Cantine Valpane, Rosso Pietro is a Barbera del Monferrato that is aged in stainless steel and concrete. It has that classic Barbera nose of cranberry, sour cherry, white pepper, and even a touch of mocha & meatiness. Very complex for a red that didn’t see wood. The palate is fruity and generous. There’s an intensity to the red fruit here. Chewy tannins and good length. At this price, this is a gorgeous red that should even elevate higher with food. Score: 90/100

• Cantine Valpane, Perlydia 2012

The Cantine Valapne, Perlydia is a Barbera del Monferrato Superiore that’s aged in a combination of stainless steel, wood, and concrete before being bottled. The wine is showing some bottle patina but the fruit still is the focus here. Notes of dried cranberry, dried cherry, baking spice, and mocha. It almost smells like an intense, freshly baked brownie with plenty of dried red fruits. On the palate, it’s more savory than the Perlydia. There’s a little more complexity and length here too. Casual drinkers may prefer the Rosso Pietro slightly more while those who want more savory reds will opt for this. Score: 91/100

• Cantine Valpane, Valpane 2009

The Cantine Valpane, Valpane is the flagship wine of the estate. It is a Barbera del Monferrato Superiore. It is mostly Barbera that was aged in large cask with a touch of Freisa that saw only stainless steel. This wine is held back in the cellar before being released. It smells surprisingly young for the bottle age. The fruit is denser here with notes of prune, plum, and dried cherry while notes of leather and a little violet peeks its head out. It gets more interesting with every swirl of the glass. The palate is rich and full-bodied. If this was given to me blind, I might not pick Barbera. Big chewy tannins and respectable length. This is for those who want bigger, richer reds. Score: 90/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Cantine Valpane provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Cantine Valpane – A Piedmont Jewel appeared first on Wine Travel.

The labels are gorgeous.

Donnafugata’s foray into the Etna DOC is stylish. The bottles feature a painted woman who has become one with the volcano. It’s not just any volcano though, it’s Europe’s most active. At 3,350 meters (10,991 feet), Mount Etna towers over Eastern Sicily. It also happens to be one of the ‘it’ wine regions in Europe.

Volcanic wine is a hot topic these days, but few vineyards exist on an active volcano – except on Mount Etna. I first visited this part of Italy in 2015 and was blown away (metaphorically speaking) by the splendor of Mount Etna. Traveling from tasting room to tasting room, I never got tired of looking up and seeing Etna blowing smoke.

Donnafugata’s Latest Winery

I missed visiting Donnafugata’s Etna estate back then for good reason – it didn’t exist. The winery acquired vineyards on the mountain in 2016 and has just started releasing wines from the property. The Etna region is Donnafugata’s latest expansion through Sicily. The original winery is located in Marsala and they also own vineyards in Pantelleria, Vittoria, and Contessa Entellina.

I didn’t know what to expect from Donnafugata’s Etna wines. Two of their more famous reds ‘Tancredi’ and ‘Mille e Una Notte’ are full-bodied, high-alcohol wines. The exact opposite of what I want in wines from Etna.

Thankfully, the labels aren’t just smoke and mirrors. These are serious wines focused on acidity and subtlety, not alcohol and power. The entry-level offerings are great value for money (Etna wines can get pricey) while their Contrada wines restore my faith in the Etna Rosso category.

Bring these to the dinner table and let the labels start the conversation before letting the wines do the talking. And when the world opens up, take a trip to Etna and taste under a smoking volcano. Hopefully, I’ll see you there!

Donnafugata Etna Wines

• Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Rosato 2020

The Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Rosato is made from Nerrello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Intense and complex with notes of mineral, crushed rock, smoke, lime, and basil. The palate is mineral driven. While it’s a lighter rosé, it’s extremely complex. There’s a spicy, citrusy finish with substantial length. This is a more serious rosé for those that demand more, it’s not a poolside sipper. Score: 90/100 

• Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Bianco 2018

The Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Bianco is 100% Carricante and some of the wine was aged in French oak. It’s zesty on the nose with notes of basil, lemon, smoke, and a touch of crushed rock. Riesling fans will love this as there’s plenty of acidity here. The wine plays on lemon and mineral flavors. The acid stretches out the long, peppery finish and there is just a kiss of vanilla from the oak. This is for acid freaks. Score: 90+/100

• Donnafugata, ‘Dea Volcano’ Etna Rosso 2018

The Donnafugata, ‘Dea Volcano’ Etna Rosso is a blend of mostly Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio partially aged in oak. Lighter-colored red with notes of sour cherry, smoke, rose petal, and a kiss of oak. It’s a medium-bodied red with a lot of juiciness and it’s incredibly easy to drink. The fruit takes center stage here. I’d like a slighlty longer finish but there’s a lot to like here. I would classify this as an easy-going bistro red. Score: 90+/100

• Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Rosso 2017

The Donnafugata, ‘Sul Volcano’ Etna Rosso is a blend of mostly Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio partially aged in oak. There are notes of cherry, mushroom, earth, and pepper. The wine does have wood but it’s put together in the wine well. This is a pretty, medium-bodied red that seems easy enough before the complexity and tannins hit on the back end. There’s plenty of stuffing here to suggest this wine still hasn’t seen its best days. Score: 90/100

• Donnafugata, ‘Contrada Marchesa’ Etna Rosso 2018

The Donnafugata, ‘Contrada Marchesa’ is a single-vineyard, 100% Nerello Mascalese aged in oak. It’s more savory than the Sul Volcano Etna Rosso and Dea Etna Rosso. Deep nose with leather, cedar, black pepper, sour cherry, and cranberry flavors. It’s a medium-bodied red but one with a lot of complexity and depth. The fruit, earth, and leather notes all come together as one with a lovely tension on the back end. This is still a baby but it will be hard to keep your hands off of it. Score: 94/100

• Donnafugata, ‘Fragore’ Etna Rosso 2018

The Donnafugata, ‘Fragore’ is a single-vineyard, 100% Nerello Mascalese aged in oak. Notes of black cherry, licorice, strawberry, leather, and black pepper. It really smells like a Grenache from the Southern Rhône. The palate really has the feel of a good red Burgundy. The fruit and leather notes come together as one. There’s a lot of complexity here that leaves you searching for more. While I may prefer the higher-toned red fruit from the Contrada Marchesa bottling, there’s no denying the excellence here. Score: 93/100 

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Donnafugata provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Campania (Italy) is a hot region at the moment thanks to the deep, structured wines from Aglianico, juicy reds from Piedirosso, and a slew of unique white grapes. It’s one of those rare regions in the world that makes both whites and reds of all levels.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe produces around 450,000 bottles from over 60 hectares of vineyards. Angelo and his daughter Milena craft wines from the grapes of Aglianico, Coda di Volpe, Greco, Fiano, and Falanghina. It’s a winery that I had seen around but had never tasted until Grapevine Adventures introduced them to me.

I was pleasantly taken back by all of the wines. The whites have a spine of acidity, the Santa Vara is possibly the finest Falanghina I’ve tasted. Many Aglianicos can be overripe, pruney, and oaky. These reds from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe are the opposite, they play more on the red fruit spectrum – which hits my palate perfectly.

Personally, I’d like to see different labels on the bottles but don’t let that deter you, there’s serious juice inside.

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Nestor’ Greco di Tufo 2019

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Nestor’ is 100% Greco with an explosive nose. Notes of green apple, white flower, pear, and a touch of white pepper. For a fresh white, there is plenty to love here. There’s a good balance of fruit, minerals, and zestiness. Clean and crisp with a slightly spicy finish. Give me this with some baked white fish all day. Score: 89/100

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Santa Vara’ Irpinia Falanghina 2018

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Santa Vara’ is a single-vineyard Falanghina that is barrel fermented. The wood integration here is fantastic. Notes of baked apple, white peach, yogurt, and a touch of spice from the barrel. This is an impressive take on this grape. There’s plenty of white fruit but it’s the electricity and spine of acidity that keeps this wine interesting. The barrel just adds a hint of flavor, nothing more. Long and salty finish. This is the most exciting Falanghina that I’ve ever tasted. Score: 92+/100

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Brancato’ Fiano di Avellino 2017

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Brancato’ is Fiano fermented in both stainless steel and wood. It’s got just the right amount of bottle development now. Notes of basil, lime, white grapefruit, and a touch of natural gas with a hint of baking spice from the barrel. It’s tangy on the palate as the wood doesn’t dominate. A medium-bodied white that finishes as if you had a bowl of grapefruit salad with crushed rocks as the seasoning. Score: 90/100

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Santo Stefano’ Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2015

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Santo Stefano’ Irpinia Campi Taurasini is Aglianico that was aged in both the barrel and concrete before being released. It’s a clean take on this grape with notes of sour cherry, rose petal, mocha, and black pepper. More medium-bodied and suave than full and jammy. This has plenty of complexity on the palate. It doesn’t show a ton of aged notes and should improve even more with time. Chewy tannins and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Opera Mia’ Taurasi 2014

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘Opera Mia’ Taurasi is 100% Aglianico that’s aged in wood and concrete before bottling. Gorgeous nose of cinnamon, cherry, black licorice, meat, and pepper. The palate is just gorgeous. The fruit and other complexities come together perfectly. This is a full-bodied red but it isn’t huge and jammy, there’s plenty of refinement for a South Italian red. Big, chewy tannins add grip and guide the long finish. This should improve beautifully with time in the bottle. Score: 93+/100

• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘La Loggia del Cavaliere’ Taurasi Riserva 2013

The Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, ‘La Loggia del Cavaliere’ Taurasi Riserva is 100% Aglianico aged in wood and stainless steel. Notes of black cherry, licorice, meat, black pepper, and sweet cedar. The palate is much more fruiter than the nose. There is a rush of fruit and cherry juice-like acidity. The tannins are still pretty firm here, which suggests the wine will last a long time in the bottle. If you want to have it now, make sure to have some grilled meat nearby. Otherwise, put this in the cellar and watch the magic happen. Score: 94/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Tenuta Cavalier Pepe provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Tenuta Cavalier Pepe: Volcanic Wines With Flair appeared first on Wine Travel.

The stretch of land along the North Adriatic coast is one of the most soulful areas I’ve traveled through. The area includes the Croatian & Slovenian portions of Istria, runs through Italy. Carso is a small strip of land that hugs the sea and surrounds Trieste, Italy. It’s here that you’ll find Benjamin Zidarich of Zidarich winery.

Zidarich

Carso is one of Italy’s smallest regions and is technically part of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. What the Carso lacks in size, it makes up with quality. There are several notable producers here like Edi Kante, Skerk, Skerlj, and Zidarich.

Zidarich works with the local grapes including Malvasia Istriana, Terrano, and their signature variety Vitovska. There are no ‘fresh’ white wines at Zidarich. Their white grapes see time on the skins and are aged in large oak casks. These are amber wines, orange wines if you will, but they aren’t heavy and tannic. They show finesse and bright acidity, which isn’t always the case in this genre.

I’ve been following their wines throughout the years and am always impressed with how Benjamin Zidarich can extract so much flavor out of his grapes while keeping alcohol levels low. The new releases all show zippy acidity, making the wines lighter on the palate and never too drying.

Italy has a number of fabulous amber wine producers but prices can be a little steep for many consumers. These wines from Zidarich are every bit as good, with fair prices to match. If you’re looking to taste something out of the ordinary, you won’t go wrong with these latest vintages.

• Zidarich, Teran 2018

This grape is known as Terrano in Italy. The Zidarich, Teran is aged in large casks for a few years. I taste many examples from Slovenia and Croatia and this one is noticeably lighter in color. It has a brilliant nose of sour cherry, fall leaves, cranberry, and mandarin orange with a touch of earth and rusty nail. Complex nose. The grape is known for its wildness but that’s kept in check here. The acidity is high (but not searing) and the tannins are pretty chewy. Most examples of this grape are too extreme for most palates but this is well done. It’s going to perform better with food but it is a stellar example of the grape. Score: 90/100

• Zidarich, Malvasia 2018

This Zidarich, Malvasia is macerated for a few weeks and aged in large casks for two years. Bright notes of dandelion, apricot, peach, and a touch of flint. It’s a floral orange wine that’s elegant, not big & burly. There’s a touch of wildness here accompanied by ripe, chewy tannins that slowly build on the palate. High alcohol and low acidity can be a problem with this grape, that’s not the case here. It comes in at 12.5% ABV and drinks well. Score: 92/100

• Zidarich, Vitovska 2018

This is the signature wine from Zidarich. The Zidarich, Vitovska is macerated and aged in large casks for about two years. Gorgeous nose of yellow peach, white flower, and crushed limestone. I can almost smell the sea in this wine. It’s a lighter orange wine and has the body of a bigger, classical white. There’s a rush of vibrant acidity that stretches out the finish. The tannins are chewy at first before the acidity washes them away. This is brilliant now and has the gumption to develop and improve in the bottle. Score: 92+/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Zidarich provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Zidarich: Soulful Italian Wine from the Carso appeared first on Wine Travel.

A noble wine waiting in the wings.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is one of the historic Tuscan wines. The first mention of the wines dates back to the 8th century and in the 16th century, Pope Paul III declared the wines of Montepulciano to be vino perfectissimo (perfect wine). In recent times, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has lost ground in the mind of the consumer to nearby appellations of Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico.

The Vino Nobile Style?

It’s no secret that I love Sangiovese, it’s the grape that sucked me into the world of wine. No matter how my palate has evolved throughout the years, my passion for Sangiovese has never waned. This carries over to Montepulciano.

Surrounding the village of Montepulciano, the region of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was one of the first regions to receive the title of DOC in the 1960s. It was promoted to the prestigious DOCG status in 1980, the same time as its neighbors Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. Despite the history, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Vino Nobile for short) doesn’t carry the caché of the former.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a Sangiovese-based red and grapes such as Canniaolo, Colorino, Mammolo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon are permitted in the blend. The style of Vino Nobile has been described in between Brunello and Chianti Classico. To me, this is a bit of a generalization as Vino Nobile styles can vary tremendously based on the producer.

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Vino Nobile di Montepulciano at a Glance

• Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is predominantly a Sangiovese-based wine in Tuscany. It’s not the same has Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
• The vineyards must be at 250-600 meters (820-1970 feet) in elevation.
• There are approximately 1,300 hectares (3,212 acres) eligble to become Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG.
• The local clone of Sangiovese is called Prugnolo Gentile and they must constitute at least 70% of the blend to be named Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 
• The Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, counts 230 farmers and 76 estate producers.

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The appellation provides the wine enthusiast with a range of choices. The wines of Vino Nobile run the gamut from fruit-driven to savory, medium-bodied & structured to full & fleshy. You can also find wines that are modern to rustic and everything in between. Is this be the downfall of Vino Nobile or a blessing?

With many ‘cookie cutter’ styles in the wine world, I find this to be refreshing. I’ve had Vino Nobiles that act very much like Brunello to those that more closely resemble Old World Pinot Noir. My hope is that producers continue to work on producing delicate Sangiovese that focuses on the sweet, sour, and savory components that make the grape so food-friendly. This can be done regardless of style.

The Future of Vino Nobile

What’s the future of Montepulciano? It seems that I’m not the only one who is bullish. Antonio Galloni of Vinous said it best, “If I had to bet on one region in Italy that really has the potential to explode onto the global stage the way Brunello, Barolo, Barbaresco, and Chianti Classico have, it would no doubt be Montepulciano.”

From my tastings over the last few months, it’s hard to argue with Antonio. Here’s a look at six different Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines from the fantastic 2016 vintage.

Wine Recommendations

• Fattoria del Cerro , Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

The Fattoria del Cerro is made from almost entirely Sangiovese. A gorgeous Tuscan nose of sweet & sour cherry, cedarwood, and smoke. This is juicy, delicious red wine. It’s not a massive red like the 14% abv would suggest, it’s one with more restraint. There is a generous amount of acidity here which allows for the tart red fruit to show through on the palate. Plenty of Italian nuances here. Open this up during a weekday evening with pizza or lasagne. Score: 89/100

• Tenuta Vallocaia – Bindella, ‘I Quadri’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

Tenuta Vallocaia – Bindella, ‘I Quadri’ is 100% Sangiovese. Out of the glass, it’s bright with rose petal, sour cherry, tobacco, and cedar notes. This hits my palate perfectly. It’s mostly tart red fruit upfront with the subtle earthy and tobacco notes coming in at the end. The juicy acidity keeps the wine light on its feet at first before the chewy tannins come on in the end. Long finish. This wine is built to last in the cellar. Score: 91+/100

• Tiberini, ‘Podere le Caggiole’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

The Tiberini, ‘Podere le Caggiole; is a single-vineyard wine made from Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Mammolo. This is a bigger Vino Nobile with notes of sour cherry, sour plum, violets, and chew tobacco. The wood comes on strong here but it’s a nice compliment to the other flavors. Full-bodied and round on the palate, it’s plush and on the fruity side. It feels so round and silky on the palate before the chewy tannins come in hard. This can last in the cellar. Score: 92/100

• Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

The Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta is mostly Sangiovese with some Canaiolo and Merlot. This is a savory, Old World red wine. Notes of leather, sour cherry, sweet cedar, and damp earth. This is a balanced, Old World red wine. There’s so much going on here, yet everything is put into place. It’s round on the palate and has a touch of rustic quality to it. The bright acidity stretches the finish. Balance is the keyword here. Score: 92+/100

• Carpineto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2016

The Carpineto, Riserva is mostly Sangiovese with some Canaiolo in it. This is rich and ripe, almost Brunello in style. Notes of black cherry, sandalwood, smoked meat, and a touch of violets. It’s full in body, the biggest wine out of this set. The wood is integrated really well here. The wine is round and plush before the supple tannins add some grip on the backend. Serve this with grilled meat. Score: 90/100

• Valdipiatta, ‘Vigna d’Alfiero’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016

The Valdipiatta, ‘Vigna d’Alfiero’ is 100% Sangiovese and only made in the best vintages. Notes of red cherry, tobacco, leather, pepper, and earth. It’s round and plush on the palate. I thought that it might be very fruity by the nose, but the fruit is restrained and held back a little. This is a red with savory nuances. Ripe tannins and a long, leathery finish. Score: 91/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Thanks to the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano for providing tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Taste of Tuscany: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appeared first on Wine Travel.

Volcanic wines are hot right now, thanks to enthusiastic sommeliers and Master of Wine, John Szabo. Italy is full of volcanic regions both in the north and south. In the south, one of these trending regions lies on the foothills of Mt. Vesuvius.

Campania, Italy is home to several volcanic appellations like Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Taburno, Irpinia, and Taurasi. White grapes like Greco, Fiano, and Falanghina in addition to the red wine grape Aglianico are the big stars here. Many producers in Camapnia, like Agricola Bellaria, work with all of the grapes

Agricola Bellaria is a relatively young winery and proprietor Antonio Pepe wants to focus on Aglianico moving forward. He does acknowledge how special the white grape Fiano can be. “Fiano di Avellino is a wine that shows best after two years in the bottle and if it is well-produced, can evolve over the course of 15 years,” he says.

Fiano is possibly my favorite Italian white grape and this effort from Bellaria doesn’t disappoint. I expect light floral aromas and intense mineral notes from the grape, which Bellaria delivers. Their Taurasi is also a present surprise with its core of dark fruit flavors. Here’s a look at my favorites from this set of current releases.

• Agricola Bellaria, ‘Oltre’ Greco di Tufo 2017

The Bellaria, ‘Oltre’ Greco di Tufo is a fresh Greco that saw only stainless steel. This has unique notes of pine, roasted almond, white peach, and a smoky, mineral flavor. This tastes like a volcanic wine through and through. Don’t think bright fruit, think soil, chalk, and even campfire-like flavors. Crispy acidity. This with fresh oysters would be a perfect pairing. Score: 88/100

• Agricola Bellaria, ‘Gold’ Fiano di Avellino 2018

I believe that Fiano is one of Italy’s finest white grapes. The Bellaria, ‘Gold’ Fiano di Avellino saw only stainless steel. Gorgeous notes of white flower, white peach, white pineapple, and a touch of starfruit. On the nose, I would expect a fruity white. The palate delivers a different experience. The wine almost tastes like a bowl of fruit salad mixed with crushed rocks from a local quarry. On the back end, there is an interesting interplay between the lemony acidity and mineral flavors. It’s complex and thought-provoking, not your normal fresh white. Score: 90+/100

• Agricola Bellaria, Taurasi 2012

The Bellaria, Taurasi is 100% Aglianico aged in wood for 12 months. This dark wine has a fantastic nose of dried cherry, plum, cedar, violets, and pepper. It still tastes younger than the vintage would suggest. It doesn’t have the tarry notes I would want in aged Aglianico but the palate is pretty with a good balance of fruit and savory notes. The acidity is high and the tannins here are big, so more time in the bottle would suit it well. Check back in on this in ten years. Score: 91+/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Agricola Bellaria provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Volcanic Wine From Agricola Bellaria appeared first on Wine Travel.