Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated.

Maeli, ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei’ Moscato Gialla

Grapes grown in volcanic soils never fail to catch our interest. You’ll find plenty of regions in Italy with volcanic origins, including Colli Euganei. This set of low rising hills is just west of Venice in Italy.

These volcanic hills are home to the ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei’ DOCG. Fior d’Arancio translates literally to “orange blossom” and the wines are made of the Moscato Giallo grape. Because of its thick skins and high sugar content, this Muscat clone is capable of producing sweet wines with floral aromas.

Co-owner Elisa Dilvanzo clears up a little confusion about Fior D’Arancio. “We have a special clone of Muscat, named Fior D’Arancio. It is a cross between an old clone of Muscat and Chasselas. Compared with normal Muscat, Fior D’Arancio is higher in acidity and mineral notes thanks to the volcanic soil,” she says.

This grape is at the heart of Maeli’s production. They produce five different wines from Moscato Giallo aka Fior D’Arancio. The portfolio includes everything from sparkling to dry to sweet. The wines taste different than others from the Muscat family. The wines have distinctive mineral undertones and are less floral than expected.

Many wine drinkers frown at the thought of serious wines made from Moscato. The Maeli Bianco Infinito may turn the most skeptical into believers. For those with a sweet tooth, there are wines in the Maeli portfolio that should satisfy that craving too. Here are our favorites.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Maeli, ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei‘ Moscato Giallo 2017

The Maeli, Moscato Giallo Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei is the flagship wine of the estate. It is a sweet sparkler with 105 g/L of residual sugar, think Moscato d’Asti. There are sharp aromas of grass, lemon, yellow flower, and sweet peaches. This has a fine bead of bubbles that slightly tickle the tongue. While this is sweet, there is enough citrusy acidity to wipe the palate dry. This is delicious and makes a perfect end of meal sipper with a rich butter cake. Pop this open and please everyone at the dinner table. Score: 89/100

• Maeli, ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei‘ Bianco Infinito 2016

The Maeli, ‘Bianco Infinito’ Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei is a dry wine that is aged in stainless steel tanks. There are notes of tangerine, yellow flower, yogurt, and white grapes. For a dry Muscat, the citrus notes stand out, which is unique. More than a simple, floral white, this is a refined wine. There is a touch of bottle age to round everything out before the minerally finish. Score: 90/100

• Maeli, ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei‘ Diloro Moscato Giallo Passito 2015

The Maeli, ‘Diloro’ Moscato Giallo Passito Fior d’Arancio is made from dried Yellow Muscat grown in volcanic soils. The grapes are dried for three months and the wine has 136 g/L of residual sugar. There are notes of dandelion, honey, dried apricot, white grapes, and a touch of white pepper. Intense and rich on the palate, this shows no signs of age. Think about a big handful of dried yellow fruit mixed with yellow flower. Full-bodied with a long finish. Score: 91/100

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Maeli provided tasting samples. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Maeli ‘Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei’ Moscato Giallo appeared first on Wine Travel.

Charine has long raved about the big-bodied Riesling from the Pfalz while I haven’t always share her enthusiasm. We recently spent several days visiting cellars in the region. After seeing the region first hand, would I change my mind?

The Pfalz: A Dynamic German Wine Region

The Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region. The German Wine Insitute reports that the region has just under 24,000 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are bordered by the Haardt Mountains to the west. These low-lying mountains create a mini-rain shadow and create a dry, sunny climate. The Pfalz is basically a northern extension of Alsace (France) with the Haardt Mountains acting as the northern section of the Vosges Range.

The region has the second-largest plantings of Rieslings in Germany behind the Mosel, but the Pfalz isn’t a one-trick pony. There are plantings of Dornfelder, Müller-Thurgau, and Spätburgunder in addition to Grauburgunder, Portugieser, Weißburgunder, Kerner, and Chardonnay. We even came across a few wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

We had only a few days to work with and were only able to visit four estates: Müller-Catoir, Reichsrat von Buhl, Von Winning, and Odinstal. The visits were a chance to deepen my understanding of the region, especially as it pertains to Riesling.

The Pfalz, The Region, The Style

Thanks to the warm and dry weather, many producers are able to farm organically or biodynamically. Of the four estates we visited, one is certified organic (Müller-Catoir) and the other three are biodynamic. Odinstal has the highest vineyards in the Pfalz. They take biodynamics a step further as they make all of their biodynamic preparations on-site.

In Germany, acidity is a premium and malolactic fermentation (conversion of sharp malic acid to softer lactic acid) is not commonly practiced. It’s different in the Pfalz, where warmer temperatures offer riper fruit and higher pHs, which can then lead to malolactic fermentation. The warmer, dryer weather allows Pfalz Rieslings to be different than other parts of Germany. They tend to be fuller, meatier, and riper with intense amounts of yellow stone fruit.

The region has a much more touristy feel, with tasting rooms that you can walk into without appointments and big-time crowds. The vineyards aren’t as dramatic or as steep as other parts of Germany, nonetheless, they are still beautiful.

As far as the wine style goes in the Pfalz, it’s certainly distinctive. The full-bodied Rieslings here are different than anywhere in Germany. The whites from the Pfalz offer a good change up to the tack sharp examples found elsewhere in the country. I came to deeply appreciate and respect the wines from the Pfalz and can’t wait to come back.

Maybe Charine was on to something after all.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Müller-Catoir, ‘Bürgergarten’ Muskateller 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Müller-Catoir ‘Bürgergarten’ Muskateller is an Erste Lage (1er Cru) wine made from 100% Yellow Muscat. The wine has high acidity and a modest alcohol level of 12.5% abv. It’s not overly pungent like a typical Muscat but there are notes of mineral water, yellow flower, and kiwi fruits. The wine has a lot of salinity and is the most serious dry Muscat I’ve tasted. There are floral notes but the mineral and fruit flavors overpower them. Score: 91/100 

• Müller-Catoir, ‘Herzog’ Rieslaner Auslese 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Müller-Catoir ‘Herzog’ Rieslaner Auslese is a sweet wine coming in at 164.1 g/L of RS and 8.1 g/L of acidity. The Rieslaner grape is a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner. This wine has notes of lemon, honey, apricot, mineral water, and butterscotch. It’s rich and creamy on the palate yet weightless at the same time thanks to the acidity. Impeccably balanced for a sweet wine, this is a helluva effort. Score: 94/100 

• Müller-Catoir, ‘Bürgergarten’ Riesling Spätlese 2018

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Müller-Catoir ‘Bürgergarten’ Riesling Spätlese is an impressive sweet wine with notes of apple, honey blossom, apricot, and lemon. This has plenty of mineral kick and vibrant acidity. The wine really sings on the palate. Despite the 61.2 g/L of RS, the wine feels very light thanks to the lemony acidity. Score: 92/100

• Reichsrat von Buhl, ‘Forster Freundsück’ Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2016

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Reichsrat von Buhl holds back their Grosses Gewachs a year later than most producers before releasing them (this year most producers are releasing their 2018’s while they are unveiling their 2017’s). The Reichsrat von Buhl ‘Forster Freundsück’ Riesling is fermented in large oak casks. The wood shows through here and is accompanied by notes of apricot, peach, slate, and chestnut. With a complex nose, this is a rich, chewy, and full-bodied wine with stellar oak integration. Score: 93/100

• Reichsrat von Buhl, ‘Reiterpfad Hofstück’ Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2013

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Reichsrat von Buhl had a few archive wines open, including this goreous ‘Reiterpfad Hofstück’ Riesling. It has notes of honey, apricot, dried peach, and slate. It is a developed wine with some notes of petrol. It is tangy and intense Riesling with real staying power on the palate. This has a lot of life ahead of it. Score: 92/100

• Von Winning, ‘Diedesheimer Kieselberg’ Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2015

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Von Winning produces big, barrel-fermented Rieslings. The Von Winning ‘Diedesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs has rich, deep color for a Riesling. There are notes of vanilla, white peach, lime, and white apricot. It’s full in body and the wood could be clumsy but instead, this is round with perfect balance and a long finish. The acidity is there but is not razor-sharp like people expect with Riesling. Score: 93/100

• Von Winning, ‘Marmar’ Riesling 2017 

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The Von Winning ‘Marmar’ Riesling is the top white of the estate, positioned even above their Grosses Gewächs Rieslings. The fruit is a barrel selection from the Ungeheuer Grosses Lage (Grand Cru vineyard). There’s a lot of oak here. Notes of pineapple, baked apple, white flower, and spice. This is full-bodied and incredibly rich, one might not think it is Riesling. Not a purist style but it is wonderful and still harnesses the electricity that makes Riesling so special. Score: 94/100

• Odinstal, ‘Muschelkalk’ Riesling 2017 

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The Odinstal ‘Muschelkalk’ Riesling is made with whole cluster fermentation. This has a flinty, matchstick smell with notes of lemon, lime, and white peach. The wine is rich and full of electricity with a touch of well done residual sugar. It finishes tight and linear with a bright, citrus peel acidity. Score: 91/100

• Odinstal, ‘Bundsandstein’ Riesling 2017

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The Odinstal ‘Budsandstein’ Riesling is made with fruit grown in sandstone soils. There are notes of slate, smoke, lemon, and lime. This is a fine and delicate, Riesling with many layers of flavors. A fantastic wine with energy and finesse in addition to a long and strung out finish. Score: 92/100

• Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, ‘Ruppertsberger Hoheburg’ Riesling 2015

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Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan is one of the big names in the Pfalz and his ‘Ruppertsberger Hoheburg’ Riesling is an Erste Läge (1er Cru) wine. It is a developed Riesling with notes of kerosene, baked apple, crushed rock, and white pepper. It isn’t as big as the 13% ABV would suggest. Round on the palate with a sleek finish, I want a little more power on the end but this is still a very nice effort. Score: 90/100

Do you like our content?

If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

We covered our own transportation, accommodation, and visits for this article (with the exception of Von Winning who provided lunch). The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Big German Wines From The Pfalz appeared first on Wine Travel.

There was a time when sweet Liebfraumilch and cheap, bulk wine symbolized the Rheinhessen.

Today things are different. The Rheinhessen may be Germany’s most dynamic wine region. It’s home to some of the most prestigious German wines, like the Keller G-Max Riesling. It is also home to some of the country’s most experimental wines and its most well-regarded sparkling wine house.

Biodynamic Rheinhessen

The Rheinhessen is Germany’s largest wine region, with close to 27,000 hectares of vineyards. Thanks to the dryer and relatively warm (by German standards) climate, this is one of the regions in the country where Biodynamic farming is possible. We visited three producers taking advantage of this Wittmann, Alexander Gysler, and Bianka & Daniel Schmitt.

Wittmann produces classically styled wines while the latter two focus on more boundary-pushing wines. The most extreme examples are Bianka & Daniel Schmitt’s Voodoo Doll and Wild Pony wines. They pay homage to dry Szamorodni from Tokaj, Hungary – Bianka’s native country. Both of these wines have enough gumption to please the geekiest of palates.

The journey to produce extreme biodynamic wines wasn’t easy for Bianka & Daniel Schmitt. The Schmitt estate produced classic German wines before Daniel took over and met Bianka, who is Hungarian. “At first the family wasn’t accepting of our new direction,” she says.

The couple has persevered and the 16-hectare estate is now one of the 80 Demeter certified wineries in Germany. With new plantings of Blaufränkisch and Furmint, the production is set to increase. They regularly sell out and can be found in fairs around the world like RAW.

Rheinhessen Sekt

Of all the sparkling wines we tasted in Germany, the most exciting examples were from two producers in the Rheinhessen. Sekthaus Raumland is considered to be the premier sparkling wine house in all of Germany. They are so well regarded by their peers that many send their wines to Sekthaus Raumland for disgorgement.

The estate is owned by Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland, who both share a passion for Champagne. Volker studied winemaking at the University of Geisenheim and his talents started to shine immediately. “As a student, I made a barrel of sparkling wine and it beat out several Champagnes in a blind tasting,” Volkers says. “It shocked my professors and soon everyone in the class wanted to make sparkling wine.”

Sekthaus Raumland produces only sparkling wine, made by the traditional method. All of their wines stay on the lees for years and see extended bottle aging. They are considered the reference for German sekt.

The sparklers from Raumland and nearby Alexander Gysler are yeasty and finessed. They are dare-we-say, Champagne-like both in texture and flavor. There is a rise in demand for sparkling wine both locally and worldwide, which should continue to push the quality in the Rheinhessen.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Alexander Gysler, Pet-Nat 2018

Alexander Gysler farms biodynamically in the heart of Rheinhessen. He produces both conventional and quirky wines, like this Pet-Nat made from 100% Pinot Noir. It has a red raspberry color with notes of raspberry, fruit gum, cherry, and yeast. Fine bubbles hold together the refreshing and crisp mouthfeel. A well made Pet-Nat that is easy to drink. Score: 90/100

• Alexander Gysler, Riesling Brut 2015

The Alexandre Gysler Riesling Brut 2015 is a sparkler that spent three years on the lees. There are notes of biscuit, lemon, white peach, and a touch of slate. It has a biscuity finish. The bready notes and fine bead of bubbles make it very Champagne-like. Score: 92/100

• Bianka & Daniel Schmitt, Voodoo Doll 2017

The Bianka & Daniel Schmitt Voodoo Doll is made from 100% Riesling that spent four weeks on the skin aged under the flor. The wine is inspired by dry Tokaji Szamorodni. The wine is aged in 600 L oak and has notes of pumpkin spice, orange peel, and apricot. Round and spicy on the palate, this has chewiness with high acidity and a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Bianka & Daniel Schmitt, Wild Pony 2017

The Bianka & Daniel Schmitt Wild Pony is aged in 600 L oak. It’s a blend of Riesling, Sylvaner, and Muskateller on the skins for six weeks under the flor. Like the Voodoo Doll, this wine is also inspired by dry Tokaji Szamorodini. It’s full-bodied with notes of orange peel, marigold, white pepper, and tomato leaf. The wine isn’t expressive at first but the intensity and complexities build momentum all the way through the finish. Chewy tannins. Score: 92/100

• Sekthaus Raumland, X. Triumvirat Grande Cuvée Brut 2010

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

A fine cuvée from Germany’s highly regarded sparkling wine producer. The Sekthaus Raumland X. Triumvirat Grande Cuvée Brut 2010 is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay aged on the lees for eight years. There are notes of biscuit, lemon, stone, white pear, and a touch of barrel. Fine bubbles with a creamy mouthfeel and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Sekthaus Raumland, Chardonnay Prestige Brut 2011

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Sekthaus Raumland Chardonnay Prestige Brut 2011 spent almost six years on the lees. There are notes of mushroom, biscuit, lemon, and green apple with a creamy bead of bubbles. The biscuit and brioche notes really stand out on this wine. Intense citrus notes accompany the tight and steely finish. Score: 93/100

• Sekthaus Raumland, Blanc de Noirs Brut 2008 

The Sekthaus Raumland Blanc de Noirs Brut 2008 is one of the estate’s reserve wines. It’s made from Pinot Noir. This has 3 g/L RS dosage and is aged on the lees for ten years. There are notes of sour strawberry, lemon, pear drop, biscuit, and mushroom. For an aged wine this is still very fresh ad lively. The wine spreads out on the palate wide and then comes back to a tight and long finish. Score: 93+/100

You Might Also Enjoy:

German Pinot Noir: Is It Worth The Hype?

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If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

We covered our own accommodation, transportation, and visits for this article. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Dynamic Rheinhessen appeared first on Wine Travel.

There are a few can’t miss places for wine lovers in Budapest and Könyvbár & Restaurant is one of them. Every time we pass through the city, we pay a visit to Könyvbár (which translates to ‘book bar’). It’s located in District VII as is one of only two establishments listed on the Raisin Natural Wine App in Budapest.

The reason we frequent the restaurant is because of proprietor Mihály Lippai. He is passionate about wines, focusing on small producers within Hungary. We have tasted many wines here that are not available anywhere else in Budapest. Mihály leans toward natural wines, he carries labels from around the world but heavily features those from his homeland.

“There are some youngsters and curious makers who are ready to break the rules and move Hungarian wine forward. I believe this country is going to be better with this new generation,” Mihály says.

It had been one year since I last visited the restaurant. After a 4-day press trip with hungarianwines.eu, I made a long-awaited return. It was great to see the cuisine had improved with a new chef. The dishes have traditional Hungarian flavors prepared and presented in a contemporary way. Another noticeable difference is the number of foreign wines on offer.

That evening, I wanted to focus on Hungarian producers (although there were a few international wines sprinkled in throughout the night). The number of small, high-quality producers in Hungary baffles me. While there isn’t a big natural (minimal-intervention) wine movement in Hungary but there are several high-quality producers leading the charge. Some of these producers are already producing some knockout wines.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

• Bencze, ‘Kék’ 2017 – Balaton

Bencze is a small producer on the North Balaton shore. The Bencze Kék is made from the grape Kékbokator and it’s an exciting wine. The nose confuses you because it is rather shy at first with a faint amount of yeast and yellow flower. However, the palate explodes with starfruit and intense salinity. Long, citrusy finish it has Riesling-like acidity. Score: 91/100

• Sziegl Pincé, ‘Kolostor Domb’ Kadarka 2017 – Hájos-Baja

Sziegl is a small producer in the Hájos-Baja, which is not one of the more renowned regions in Hungary. We’ve been fans of their Kékfranks in the past but this is a step up in quality. The Sziegl ‘Kolostor Domb’ Kadarka is a made in tiny quantities – one barrel was produced.

There are notes of rhubarb, strawberry, pepper, and earth. This smells delicate and easy on the palate but it’s full and rich in body. The mid-palate is silky and intense while the finish is peppery and long. Only 12% in alcohol, this is downright beautiful, light red wine. Score: 93/100

• Grand vin de Barnag, Schmutzig 2018 – Balaton

Grand vin de Barnag is a tiny project started by a sommelier who produces small batches of wine in Balaton. This is Zweigelt aged in the barrel for 8 months. This is a light and earthy red wine. Notes of cherry, fall leaves, pepper, and caramel. This is a raw, juicy, and fruity natural wine. It smells like a conventional wine but tastes like natural wine. Tart acidity and low level of tannins. This is a name to keep your eye on. Score: 86/100

• Organic, Cuvée Marie Vallis Rufus 2016 – Južnoslovenská (Slovakia)

Stefan Kasynik is a wizard in Južnoslovenská (South Slovakia). Like many winemakers in the region, he identifies himself as ethnically Hungarian. The Organic Cuvée Maria Vallus Rufus is a blend of St. Laurent, Andrée, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, and Alibernet. Crazy blend that is crazy complex and delicious. Notes of dark berry, cedar, pepper, and dried strawberry. This is juicy, medium-bodied and crazy complex. It has a lot of ripe red fruits with a touch of French stemminess to it. Score: 92/100

*Check out our article on the Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus (orange wine).

• Grál Borpince, Pelzberg 2016 – Tolna

Grál Borpince produces beautiful wines in the Tolna region, which is adjacent to the more famous Szekszárd. The Grál Borpince Pelzberg is 100% Kékfrankos. Notes of juicy strawberry, fall leaves, earth, and pepper. This wine is red fruit-driven and has tons of delicious factor. Silky mid-palate with slightly grippy tannins and a long finish. Outstanding stuff. Score: 92/100

• Ráspi, Kékfrankos Selection 2006 – Sopron

Ráspi is a big name in the region of Sopron, which is basically an extension of Austria’s Burgenland. The Ráspi Kékfrankos Selection 2006 has an incredible nose with wax, fall leaves, mushroom, red fruit, and pepper. This is a true, cool-climate red. The age has rounded the palate on this wine. The tannins are developed and the wine has a beautiful spiciness to it. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• Stumpf, ‘Nagy-Eged Cuvée’ Cabernet Franc Merlot 2015 – Egér

Stumpf Pincészet is a small producer in Egér constructing exciting wines with the help of Master Sommelier John Szabo. They producer several red wines from the Nagy-Eged Cru including a Bikavér, Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, and this cuvée. The Stumpf ‘Nagy-Eged Cuvée’ Cabernet Franc Merlot is darker and richer than their other reds. It has a core of dark fruit that is held together with a tight frame of acidity and fine tannins. It’s got a subtly spicy finish. I prefer their other reds a tad more but this is still a delicious wine. Score: 90+/100

• Királyudvar, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000 – Tokaj-Hegyalja

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Királyudvar is one of the legendary names in Tokaj and their 6 puttonyos is well regarded. The Királyudvar Tokaji Aszuú 6 Putonyos 2000 is dark in color from the bottle age. It has notes of caramel, lemon, natural gas fall leaves, coffee, and citrus peel. The wine is nutty, full-bodied, and rich. It’s an old-school Tokaj with a long and fiery finish. Score: 95/100

Bonus Vin Jeune

• Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot, Château-Chalon 2008 – Jura (France)

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Ok ok, the Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Château-Chalon is not a Hungarian wine. This is a French wine from the Jura and a marvelous one at that. Vin Jeunes are wines aged under a thin layer of bacteria (flor) like Sherry. This has notes of almond, pear, white apple, caramel, and pepper. It’s unique and full-bodied with lots of nuttiness on the palate. This complex wine finishes long and salty. The Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Château-Chalon is a true meditation wine. Score: 96/100

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Thank you to KönyvBár & Restaurant who provided the tasting. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Hungarian Wine: A Walk On The Wild Side appeared first on Wine Travel.

Charine and I are huge fans of Hungarian wines and jump at every opportunity to return to the country and taste. So when hungarianwines.eu invited me to attend their 4-day study trip for the second year in a row, I immediately said yes.

The trip included stops in the Hungarian wine regions of Egér, Hajós-Baja, Mór, and Balaton. The trip consisted of visits with producers, winemaker dinners, and organized tastings. I attended the trip with guests from Canada, Italy, the United Kingdom, and Spain.

As expected, the quality of Hungarian wines I tasted on the trip were very good. This is a country with a long history of wine production and it’s unfortunate the world doesn’t know more about these wines. I feel there are several good reasons for that. First is the fact that the Hungarian language is incredibly difficult to grasp. To the consumer, Hungarian wine labels might as well be written in Martian.

In my opinion, the second reason is the overall mindset when it comes to marketing. Hungarians are proud people, as they should be. For decades, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was one of the largest and most powerful nations in Europe. It seems to me that many Hungarians feel too proud to market their wines or seek help. This is unfortunate because it deprives the wine consumer of experiencing fantastic and unique wines.

Despite these two factors, I am optimistic that Hungarian wines can breakthrough. Hungary is home to Tokaj, which produces some of the world’s greatest sweet wine and the quality of the dry wines is equally impressive. There is a wide range of styles from the rich reds of Villány and Szekszárd to the mineral-driven whites of Somló.

Charine and I continue to be the biggest cheerleaders of Hungarian wine. Overall, the quality of wine production in Hungary is among the highest in Eastern Europe. It should be a matter of time before the rest of the wine world shares our sentiment.

Here are the Hungarian wines that stood out the most during my four days back in the country.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Juliet Victor, Tokaji Édes Szamorodni 2017 – Tokaj-Hegyalja 

Juliet Victor is a new producer in Tokaj and this is their only sweet wine so far (they will be releasing a Tokaji Aszú in the future). Szamorodni is a unique style of sweet wine usually only sold in Hungary. The Juliet Victor Tokaji Édes Szamorodni is a blend Furmint, Hárslevelü, and Yellow Muscat. It has rich notes of sweet peach, white flowers, mineral, and lemon. It’s full and concentrated with a high level of residual sugar for a sweet Szamorodni (189 g/L). This needs to lay down in the cellar for a few more years to show its best. Score: 92/100

• Toth Ferenc, Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 – Egér

The Toth Ferenc Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 is the most impressive wine I’ve ever tasted from this winery. This Egri Bull’s Blood is a blend of Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir. It has notes of sour cherry, graphite, pepper, and stemmy. Aged for 15 months in the barrel. This plays on the lighter and stemmier side of red. It’s a medium-bodied red, the tannins are a little unripe, but overall this is a solid effort. Score: 90/100

• St. Andrea, ‘Boldogságos’ Egri Csillag Grand Superior 2018 – Egér

Egri Csillag translates to the “Star of Eger”. The St. Andrea Boldogságos isn’t the winery’s top Egri Csillag but it delicious and well made. This is a single vineyard wine with Olaszrizling, Pinot Gris, Hárslevelü, Furmint, Sauvignon Blanc and this vintage has a touch of Viognier in it. The latter grape adds some floral notes in addition to the flavors of white peach, lemon, and yogurt. It’s full-bodied and rich white with a grassy, spiciness to it. This is a baby now but will round out beautifully with some age. Score: 90/100

*For a step up in complexity we highly recommend their Örökké and Maria Egri Csillags.

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Thummerer, Egri Csillag Grand Superior 2015 – Egér

The Thummerer Egri Csillage Grand Superior is one of the best wines I’ve tasted from this particular estate. It’s a partially barrel-fermented white blend of Chardonnay, Olaszrizling, Királyleányka, Leányka, and Traminer. The Chardonnay really dominates here. This is ripe and big with notes of white peach, melon, yogurt, and a touch of grass. Score: 91/100

• Bolyki, Egri Bikavér 2016 – Egér

There were many good Egri Bikavérs at the tasting including Gál Tibor, St. Andrea, Kovacs Nimrod and others but the Bolyki Egri Bikavér stood out for its great value. This is found under 10 Euros in Hungary and is exported. This unfiltered wine is a blend of Kékfrankos, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir. It has a rich nose with flavors of blueberry, cherry, earth, and a touch of pepper. This is a medium-bodied red with juicy acidity and soft tannins. Score: 89/100

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• Koch, Premium Kadarka 2017 – Hajós-Baja

Don’t let the score fool you, the Koch Premium Kadarka is a fantastic wine that can be found for under 5 Euros in Hungary. It has notes of strawberry, pepper, and earth. The finish is earthy and spicy. Another excellent vintage of this wine, which we buy often when in Hungary. Fantastic fruit for an inexpensive wine. Score: 88/100

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• Koch, Vin Art Csanád Villányi Cuvée 2012 – Villány

Koch also produces several reserve wines including the Vin Art Csanád Villányi Cuvée which is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in oak for at least 18 months. This has a pretty nose with black cherry, violets, tobacco, cedar, and toast. Full in body with chalky tannins and a long finish. Score: 91/100 

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• Kristinus, Kékfrankos Selection 2017 – Balatonboglár

The Kristinus Kékfrankos Selection is aged in oak for 14 months. It has notes of crunchy red fruit, fall leaves, pepper, and cedar. The wine is medium-bodied and silky on the mid-palate with a spicy finish. This is never overburdened by the oak and is food-friendly. Score: 91/100

• TR, Tokaji Dry Furmint 2017 – Tokaj-Hegyalja

The prices of dry Tokaji continues to rise, which makes the TR Tokaji Dry Furmint so appealing. TR is a young winery located in the village of Tállya. This wine has everything that I want in a dry Furmint, white pear flavors with intense mineral notes, combined with fiery acidity. Some of this wine was barrel-aged which builds up the body. For a wine that retails at around 10 Euros in Hungary, this is a steal. Score: 90/100

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• Tornai, Top Selection Grófi Hárslevelü 2017 – Somló

Tornai is one of the big names in the tiny, volcanic region of Somló. The Tornai Top Selection Grófi Hárslevelü is in the top range of their portfolio. This is barrel fermented and half-dry with flavors of yellow peach, mineral, smoke, and white pepper. Like many wines from Somló, this is full-bodied with mineral notes and a powerful, long finish. The high acidity makes this feel like a completely dry wine. Score: 92/100

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• Teleki, Villányi Franc ‘Kopar’ 2015 – Villány

Teleki is one of the oldest and largest producers in Villány, a red wine-producing region in the south of Hungary. The region is known for Cabernet Franc. The Teleki Villaányi Franc ‘Kopar’ is 100% Cabernet Franc from the esteemed Kopar vineyard. The wine has the typical notes of the grape, black cherry, olive, and capsicum with a touch of wood. It’s a full-bodied and dense Cabernet Franc with firm, but not overly drying tannins. Score: 90/100

• Csetvei, EA 2018 – Mór

Csetvei is a young producer in the tiny region of Mór. They specialize in the grape Ezerjo. The Csetvei EA (Ezerjo Amphora) is fermented and kept in amphora for 5 months without the skins. This is a clean and well-done amphora wine with notes of dried pear and pineapple. The wine is rich and chewy with a salty, complex finish. This is a producer we will be keeping our eyes on. Score: 92+/100

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• Jackfall, Grand 2012 – Villány

Jackfall is a small producer in Villány and their Grand is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s rich with notes of graphite, black cherry, tobacco, capsicum. This is full-bodied with many layers of texture and Bordeaux-like flavors. The long finish is guided by chewy tannins. Score: 93/100

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• Heimann, Barbar 2016 – Szekszárd

Heimann is one of the big names in Szekszárd and this is their flagship wine. The Heimann Barbar is made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat, and Kékfrankos. It has notes of capsicum, black cherry, chocolate, green herbs, and tobacco. This is full-bodied and rich with smooth, ripe tannins. Score: 91/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

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Exotic Wine Travel Hungarian Wine Articles

Thank you to hungarianwines.eu who provided accommodation and meals during my four days in Hungary. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Tokaj is one of the world’s legendary wines, known as the wine of kings and king of wines. When it comes to sweet Tokaji, the Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos is often the crown jewel in most producers’ portfolios (in addition to Tokaji Eszencia). These wines are so intense and unique, they feel almost medicinal when drinking them.

This type of wine is made by using grapes infected with botrytis, which are shriveled and intensely sweet. The sweetness level of Tokaji was traditionally measured by how many baskets (puttony) of botrytized berries were added to the base wine. A Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos traditionally took six puttony of grapes to achieve the proper level of sweetness. The botrytized grapes aka Aszú berries are picked by hand, making these wines labor-intensive.

Most people associate Tokaj with Hungary and for good reason. If you’ve ever had the chance to sip on a sweet Tokaji, it was most likely from Hungary. A little-known fact is that this luscious sweet wine is also made across the border in Slovakia, where it’s known as Tokajský Výber 6 Putñový.

Slovak Tokaj

A small part of Tokaj falls within the borders of modern-day Slovakia. The existence of Slovak Tokaj is highly controversial and Hungarians have disputed Slovakia’s use of the name to the EU. Pushing politics aside, both sides of Tokaj show similarities.

The first and foremost is the volcanic soil. Slovak Tokaj producers possess long cellars that tunnel through the volcanic tuft. These cellars are humid and have the perfect conditions for the black cellar fungus Racodium cellare, which feeds off evaporated alcohol and keeps the air free of musty smells.

Many of the grapes are used on both sides of the border (Furmint, Hárslevelü/ Lipovina, and Sárgamuskotály/Yellow Muscat/Muškát žltý). The Hungarian side also has unique grapes like Kabar, Kövérszőlő, and Zetá. We haven’t come across these in Slovak Tokaj, although there could be small isolated plantings.

Info poster by WineSofa.eu

There are over 900 registered hectares of vineyard space in Slovak Tokaj but many claim that less than 50% of that is actually planted. Slovak Tokaj consists of seven villages as opposed to 27 in Hungarian Tokaj. There are seven larger producers in Slovak Tokaj in addition to several small, garage wineries.

Slovak Tokaj Nomenclature

WineSofa has put together an info poster to explain the different styles of wine in Tokaj. Winemaking laws are very similar in both parts of Tokaj. The nomenclature in both sides is different, which should be no surprise because the Slovak and Hungarian languages bear no resemblance to each other.

Here are terms that appear on Slovak Tokaj labels.

• Tokajský = A wine from Slovak Tokaj. A wine from the Hungarian side is called Tokaji.
• Suché/Sladké = Dry/Sweet
• Samorodné = The same name as Szamorodni in Hungarian Tokaj
• Výber = Aszú, the dried grape berry affected by botrytis
• Putňový = Analogous to Puttonyos in Hungary, which are the traditional wood baskets used to collect Výber/Aszú berries
• Forditáš = Analogous to Forditas in Hungarian Tokaj. A style of wine where Výber/Aszú skins are reused to make a second batch of sweet wines. Similar to the ripasso method in Italy.
• Výberová Esencia = Analogous to Aszú Eszencia, which is a style that was officially discontinued in Hungarian Tokaj. It’s sweeter than Výber Putñovy wines, yet lighter than an Esencia wine.
• Esencia = Eszencia, the free run juice from Výber/Aszú berries. It runs strictly from the weight of the grapes and is collected via a tap at the bottom of a tank.

Tokaj: Differences in Style

Hungarian Tokaji might be more user-friendly to most of the wine drinking public. Wine geeks will probably be intrigued by the sweet wines from Slovak Tokaj, aside from the uniqueness factor. Among the wines of Slovak Tokaj, the Tokajský Výber 6 Putñový is sure to peak interest. 

There are some obvious differences in the styles between sweet Hungarian Tokaji and Slovak Tokajský. In general, the sweet Tokajský wines from Slovakia are more oxidative and “old-school” in style compared to Hungarian Tokaji. The sweet Slovak Tokajské wines are nuttier with toffee-like notes, similar to Tawny Port. What the wines share with their Hungarian counterparts is the fiery acidity that wipes the palate clean.

Slovak Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 

We have included all producers of 6 Putñový wines in Slovak Tokaj with the exception of Chateau Vecsey – who chose not to show their wines. Chateau Grand Bari is another new project in the region but they have yet to release a Tokajský Výber 6 Putñový to the market. Unfortunately, these wines are not heavily exported, which means you will have to visit Slovakia to pick them up. 

• Chateau Viničky Tokajský Výber 6 Putñový 2009

The Chateau Viničky Tokajský Výber 6 Putñový 2009 is widely available in Tesco outlets throughout Slovakia. This wine has notes of dried apricot, walnuts, almonds, and lime skin. Very sherry-like on the nose. Concentrated on the palate. It’s rich with nutty flavors. The acidity isn’t searing like normal Tokaj but it is high. Natural gas and citrus-like finish. It isn’t the most complex wine in this style but it is delicious. Score: 88/100

• J&J Ostrožović  Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2003

J&J Ostrožović is one of the biggest names in Slovak Tokaj. It’s still owned by the founder, Jaroslav Ostrožović. Jaroslav produces many different wines, including a reductive fresh style of sweet Tokaj, but he still prefers to make the traditional Tokaj wines.

The J&J Ostrožović Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2003 has a golden amber color. With 160 g/L of RS and 13 g/L of acidity, it’s aged for five years in the barrel. Layers of fall leaves, apricots, orange peel, and tobacco make up the complex flavors. The wine is rich on the palate with fiery acidity and a spicy finish. Score: 93/100

• Tokaj & Co. Tokajský Výber 6 Putñovy 2006

Tokaj & Co. is another one of the big boys on the market. Their wines can also be found easily in Tesco outlets throughout Slovakia. The Tokaj & Co. Tokajský Výber 6 Putñovy 2006 is a blend of 65% Furmint, 25% Lipovina, and 10% Yellow Muscat. This was aged for eight years in the barrel and 180 g/L of RS. Wax, fall leaves, lemon, and apricot notes dominate the flavor profile. It’s rich and luscious on the palate, which includes lots of aged notes. Fiery acidity and a long finish. Score: 90/100

• Tokaj Macik Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2006

Jaroslav Macik is a traveling man. He can be seen judging at various competitions over Europe. His wines are also the only Slovak wines currently displayed at La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux. The Tokaj Macik Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2006 is made with a base of Samorodné wine, unlike most other sweet Tokaj wines that use fresh, dry wine as a base.

It has flavors of pumpkin spice, orange peel, and dried apricot with a touch of fall leaves. This is aged under a thin film of bacteria called flor. This is a unique style, it isn’t as full bodied as normal 6 Putñový wines. The wine is lighter on its feet with a lovely freshness. Score: 90/100

• Zlatý Strapec Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2009

Zlatý Strapec is a gem of a producer. Their wines aren’t present much on the market and most of their business comes from selling bulk wine from the tap to the locals. However, their Tokajský Výber wines can be stunning.

The Zlatý Strapec Tokajský Výber 6 Putňový 2009 is orange and amber in color. Charred wood, orange peel, nuts, and dried apricot dominate the palate. With 160 g/L of RS, it’s rich and concentrated. This has many layers of flavors. It’s chewy and has an impeccable balance for a wine of this sweetness. Fiery acidity and a long finish, both staples for the sweet wines of Tokaj. Score: 92/100

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Slovak Tokaj: A Forgotten Region
Hungarian Wine: The Legendary Tokaj Region
Return To Tokaj

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Wine Not!?

There are few wine bars that really impress us, but Wine Not!? in Bratislava, Slovakia is an exception. The minute we stepped into the bar Charine exclaimed, “let’s skip the hotel and sleep here.” The bar has over 1000 labels to choose from and they focus on wines from the former Austro-Hungarian empire. There is also a heavy focus on Italian wines.

The selection of international wines is great, but it’s the selection of Slovak wines that get us really excited. There are more than twenty producers present, some of which are extremely hard to get. Including the Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus made by Štefan Kasynik.

Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus 2015

The village of Strekov sits in the Južnoslovenská (South Slovakia) wine region. It’s a village near the border of Hungary and most of the people are ethnically Hungarian. It has become the epicenter of natural winemaking in Slovakia. We visited in the winter of 2017 and came away impressed with the wines. The region has patches of volcanic soil and a moderating influence from the nearby Danube River. South facing slopes in the region allow enough sunlight to ripen red varieties, which can be a challenge in Slovakia.

One producer we did not visit was Organic Winery. It’s s a small winery making minimal intervention wines. Organic Winery isn’t heavily marketed and it seems like only the wine insiders in Slovakia know about the wines. Wine Not!? was kind enough to open a bottle for us.

The Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus 2015 is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, and Muškat Moravsky. It’s an orange wine (amber wine) made without added sulfites.

The wine has notes of apricot, yellow flower, honey, and citrus peel. This has a chewy texture and low level of tannins for a macerated white wine. It’s clean and not oxidized – which can turn many people off when it comes to orange wines. It’s very good vino and is knocking on the door of greatness, if the finish was a tad longer it would move up to levels of rarified air. We can’t wait to taste more wines from this producer’s portfolio on our next trip to Slovakia. 

Score: 90/100

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Tokaj & Co. Tokajský Výber 5-putňový 2003

We came across the damp and moldy cellars of Tokaj & Co. during a trip to Slovak Tokaj in the winter of 2017. While Tokaj is synonymous with Hungarian wine, there is a small portion (around 10% of the total vineyard space) of Tokaj located in the southeastern part of Slovakia. Tokaj & Co. is the oldest producer in Slovak Tokaj and was a state-owned company during the Czechoslovakia period. During the summer of 2018, we returned to the cellar.

Putñovy is the Slovak word for Puttonyos, used in Hungary. These sweet wines are made by soaking (macerating) shriveled grapes affected by noble rot (botrytis) into a base wine for a period of time and then pressing the juice – like steeping a tea bag and then pushing out the water with a spoon. The shriveled grapes (called cibébový in Slovakia and aszú in Hungary) are hand-picked late into the season.

Samorodné is the Slovak term for Szamorodni, used in Hungary. These wines are made by harvesting whole bunches of grapes (bunches with normal and shriveled grapes), vinifying them and then aging the wine in oak. It can be made into a dry or sweet wine depending on the vinification.

Tokaj & Co. Tokajský Výber 5-putňový 2003

The Tokaj & Co. Tokajský Výber 5-putňový 2003 is a blend of 65% Furmint, 25% Lipovina (Hárslevelü), and 10% Yellow Muscat. The wine has 130 g/L of RS and is matured seven years in the barrel. Tangerine, fall leaves, mushroom, and sweet tobacco make up the flavor profile. Candied fruit on the front palate is shocking but the finish is full of lemon, gas, and fiery acidity. It is fruity on the front and serious on the back.

4.0/5

Tokaj & Co. Dvojka Samorodné Sladké 1990

We have tasted this wine twice. The first time was our visit to the Tokaj & Co. cellars and the second time was a thorough tasting of the whole bottle. I have enjoyed this wine since the first sip but Charine took some time to warm up to it. When I opened this sample for the second go-round, Charine was drinking a Pinot Noir that she loves. After sniffing my glass, she exclaimed “WAAHHH” and immediately poured out the Pinot Noir and helped herself to a glass of this wine.

The Tokaj & Co. Dvojka Samorodné Sladké 1990 is a blend of 65% Furmint, 25% Lipovina (Hárslevelü), and 10% Yellow Muscat. This is technically a 2 Putñovy wine with 50 g/L of residual sugar and was aged four years in oak. Flavors include mushroom, fall leaves, apple cider, and dried apricot. This is uber complex and smells like Sherry but tastes like a true Tokaj wine with the vibrant acidity. It’s nutty and citrus on the finish. It’s a wine for geeks, a drink to meditate with. 

You can see Charine’s take below:

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

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Tokaj & Co. provided samples of the wines for this article. The opinions expressed are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. 

The post Tokaj & Co. Dvojka Samorodné Sladké 1990 & Tokajský Výber 5-putňový 2003 appeared first on Wine Travel.

Make no mistake about it, we’re crazy about Tokaj.

Although it’s only a three-hour drive east of Budapest, Tokaj feels a world apart. The Zemplen Mountains provide a stark contrast to the great plains of Hungary. The south slopes are covered in vineyards and engulf 27 small villages.

Tokaj is a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Historical Landscape and for good reason. It is a romantic and quiet slice of Hungary. We first visited Tokaj in the Fall of 2017 and instantly fell in love. You can see some photos and videos of the landscape in that previous article.

How Tokaji Wines Are Made

Tokaji wines are unique and can be confusing to understand for those new to the region. Our friends at WineSofa has produced a series of info posters to make understanding Tokaji wines easier. Here’s how Tokaji Aszú wines are made.

And the different types of Tokaji wines.

Second and Third Impressions of Tokaj

During the summer of 2018, we had the chance to visit the region on three separate occasions. Each time we visited a few cellars. We also tasted dozens of Tokaji wines in Budapest as we continue to build our knowledge of the region. All in all, over the summer we managed to taste over 100 Tokaji wines.

Since sweet wines are a tough sell, many producers have put a heavy focus on dry wines – some of which can be stunning. It will be interesting to see how all the producers come along with their dry wines. All too often, the dry wines tend to be neutral with searingly high acidity. However, when they’re good, they’re outstanding.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

You can find out more about our scoring system on the Wine Rating page.

Dry Tokaji

• Abraham Pince, Kölevés Tokaji Furmint 2013

Abraham Pince is a tiny producer in the village of Erdőbénye. The Kölevés is his entry-level dry wine but for my palate, maybe the best. There are flavors of white fruit, iced sugar topping, and smoke. This is full bodied with high acidity and snappy, peppery acidity. It has a snappy, peppery finish like Grüner Veltliner. Piercing acidity with a ton of minerals on the finish ironically Kölevés translates to “stone soup.”  Score: 90/100

• ÁTS, Szent Tamás Furmint 2015

Szent Tamás is one of Tokaj’s legendary vineyards, located in Mád. The Szepsy Szent Tamás is the most expensive dry Tokaji and can set you back 100 USD or so. The ÁTS Szent Tamás Furmint can be had at a fraction of this price.

This hasn’t aged prematurely like many dry Furmints do after a year or two, showing that the fruit is fantastic. The wine has an explosive nose with flavors of sweet peach, lemon, and flint, flint, flint! This is concentrated and full of minerals. Acidity is under control on this big bodied wine. Full of texture and good oak integration with a long finish. A pleasure to drink.   Score: 90/100

• Erzsébet Pince, Király Dülö 2012

For our money, the Erzsébet Pince Király Dülö label is the finest dry Tokaji we have tasted. During our visit to the cellar, we got the chance to taste this older vintage. Although it’s not available, the current releases of 2015 and 2016 are highly recommended.

This wine has aged beautifully. It’s loaded with sweet peach, flint, spice, and sweet-tart notes. It’s full and round. It hasn’t aged as much as normal Furmints and the finish is long and mineral. Master of Wine and Master Sommelier, Ronn Weigand is part of the winemaking family and together they have all pulled an extraordinary amount of flavor out of this relatively neutral grape (Furmint).  Score: 94/100

Dry Szamorodni

• Hudácskö, Tokaji Szamorodni Szaráz 2007

Hudácskö is a small family winery that sells almost all of their production from the cellar. I was very pleased to see that they produce dry Szamorodni, somewhat of a dying art in Tokaj. The Hudácskö Tokaji Szamorodni Szaráz is aged in oak for three years. It has lemon, sherry-like flavors with honey, nuts, and a touch of lime. It’s old-school and delicious. Think of it as a dry Fino Sherry with more acidity and a tangy finish.  Score: 90/100

• Berés, Szamorodni Szaraz 2006

Most of the new wineries in Tokaj are from foreign investment. However, the Berés estate is Hungarian owned. While the estate does produce sweet Tokaji, their focus is on dry wines. The Berés Szamorodni Szaraz is aged under the flor. Bright notes of lemon, pineapple, apricot, and almond make up the flavor profile. Beautiful notes of pine and oxidative notes with a nutty finish. Tart but not overlying coying.  Score: 89/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Megyer, Szamorodni Szaraz 2011

Megyer is the second label of Chateau Pajzos but don’t let that fool you. The wines in the Megyer lineup are still serious. The Megyer Szamordoni Szaraz is 100% Yellow Muscat four years in the barrel under the floor. Notes of honey, tangerine, and almond notes with some dried apricots and fall leaves emerge from the glass. The wine is smoky and bone dry. This has a smooth and oxidative finish.   Score: 90/100

Sweet Tokaji

• Erzsébet Pince, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013

The Erzsébet Pince Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013 is aged for 24 months in Hungarian oak. It’s very complex with honey, lemon, sweet peach, and fall leaves notes with a touch of dried pineapple. The wine feels so fresh despite the 224 g/L of residual sugar. It’s layered and complex with a long finish. Score: 96/100

• Chateau Pajzos, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2006

Chateau Pajzos has focused on the 5 Puttonyos as their flagship sweet wine (as opposed to the 6 Puttonyos). This vintage is a masterpiece, there are beautiful notes of white flower, caramel, lemon, natural gas, tangerine, and apricots. Extremely complex, it’s floral, fruity, concentrated, and rich. Luscious mouthfeel with brilliant acidity and a long finish.   Score: 95+/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Chateau Dereszla, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2009

The Chateau Derezsla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2009 has the typical, textbook flavors of a sweet Tokaji – which is not a bad thing! There are notes of honey, fall leaves, apricot, lemon, and baking spice. Full and luscious on the palate with fiery acidity. The finish on this is spicy and long with over 150 g/L of residual sugar.  Score: 92/100

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• Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999

This was the first bottled vintage that Oremus made in its new cellar. The Oremus Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999 has 240 g/L of residual sugar. It’s very complex and ethereal on the palate. A myriad of flavors include nuts, honey, marzipan, white chocolate, lemon, and fall leaves notes. Fiery acidity with tight structure and a long finish.   Score: 97/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

• Szepsy, Szamorodni Edés 2012

No article on Tokaj would be complete without a wine from Istvan Szepsy, the most legendary producer in the region. This Szamorodni has the concentration of a Tokaji Aszú wine, impressive in itself. The Szepsy Szamorodni Edés 2012 may be the most concentrated sweet Szamorodni that we’ve come across.

It’s very floral with lemon, marmalade, honey, and cotton candy notes. It’s rich for this style of wine but still has many layers of flavor and a slightly spicy finish. A touch more acidity would have pushed it to ethereal levels.  Score: 93+/100

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Tokaji Eszencia

• Chateau Pajzos, Tokaji Eszencia 2000

The mother of all Tokaji wines. The Chateau Pajzos Eszencia 1999 scored a perfect 100 points in Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate. The 2000 isn’t a slouch either with over 500 g/L of residual sugar and 4% alcohol. Notes of lemon, dandelion, toffee, and taffy notes with mushrooms and forest floor cover the palate. The wine is rich and long with a healing mouthfeel. It’s like a magic potion on the palate. Good acidity with a long finish.  Score: 97/100

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• Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia 2008

Although I prefer the 2007 to this vintage, it’s still a helluva wine. The Oremus Tokaji Eszencia 2008 has over 500 g/L of residual sugar. It’s very complex with notes of lemon, fall leaves, apricot, orange peel, cotton candy, and natural gas notes. It’s very sweet with a long finish and the fiery acidity. It’s not as tight as the 2007 but it’s fantastic none the less.   Score: 96+/100

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Thank you to Taste Hungary for providing a day trip to Tokaj and Hungarian Wines.eu for a visit to Tokaj during their study trip. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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