People love to support small, family-run wineries. But if you truly believe in fighting for the little guy, it’s time to give cooperative wineries a second look.

Cooperative Wineries

Cooperative wineries are joint ventures owned by several (up to hundreds) of members. The concept is simple, pool resources and costs for winemaking and marketing. The formation and rise of cooperatives in Europe happened after the 1930s. Members are made up of wine growers of various sizes that don’t have the knowledge or desire to bottle and market their own wine.

People would be surprised to know cooperative wineries are responsible for around 50% of all the wine produced in both Italy and France. In Spain and Portugal, those numbers can get closer to 60%. In Germany, fruit from about one-third of the countries vineyards ends up in cooperative wineries.

Cooperatives often have members that are small growers who work with unique or forgotten varieties. In essence, they become stewards of these unique grapes. Small producers may pull some of these varieties in favor of more marketable grapes.

When well run, cooperative wineries produce excellent wines at great prices. From everyday bottles to wines that can age in the cellar. I’ve had magical bottles from Italian cooperatives like Produttori del Barbaresco (Piedmont), Cantina Terlano & Cantina Tramin (Trentino-Alto Adige), and Santadi (Sardinia). These cooperatives make wine that can rival those from small producers around the world.

Cooperatives: Advantages

The trend in both food and wine is all about supporting the small farmer. In the wine industry, that is what cooperative wineries are all about. I’d like to see more awareness and support of cooperatives, especially those that are well run. They offer a scale and price points that individual estates might find hard to match.

Tessa Donnadieu, the Export Manager at the cooperative Vinchio Vaglio Serra, agrees. “I have been working for Italian coops for 11 years (before with Clavesana now Vinchio Vagiol Serra). I believe in the concept of community and the incredible potential of the wines,” she says.

Nicola Thornton bottles wine under her label Botas de Barro (muddy boots) in Spain. She thinks cooperative wineries have some distinct advantages in the marketplace. “Price, volume, quality. They (coops) are in the BEST position because of access to fruit in volumes that other producers would find hard to accumulate,” she says.

While many people equate vineyard attention and care with small private wineries. Nicola insists that the same kind of attention happens with growers that contribute to coops too. “Each farmer looks after his own vineyards on a relatively small scale and many have a special link and knowledge to each parcel, ” she adds.

But… Is The Wine Good?

All of this sounds great but we all want to know one thing. Is the wine delicious?

During my tastings in late 2020 and early 2021, I got the chance to reaffirm my assumptions. Cooperative wines run the gamut from easy and delicious to complex and serious. All of the wines tasted were well made with some I’d be proud to show to the most critical palates.

Here are some of my favorites from samples sent to me by Vinchio Vaglio Serra (Piedmont, Italy), Cantina Tramin (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy)., Pico Wines (Azores, Portugal), and Vignerons Catalans (Languedoc-Roussillon, France).

Wine Recommendations:

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barbaresco 2016

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra Barbaresco offers tremendous value. There are less than 6,000 bottles made from this cooperative. This is a very savory, denser Barbaresco. Notes of cherry, leather, fall leaves, mocha, and tobacco. Medium-bodied on the palate, the acidity is tamed on this wine. Tannins are grippy and not overly drying (like Nebbiolo can be). Good length. At this price point, you’re getting a developed, delicious Barbaresco. Shows a little more bottle age than the vintage suggests, so drink it up now. Score: 92/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barolo 2013

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Barolo has some bottle development. Notes of dried rose petals, dried cherry, perfume, tobacco, and mocha. Very complex nose. While the nose makes me think it might be a massive, over-extracted Barolo, the palate is the complete opposite. There is a finesse and prettiness here that only Nebbiolo can give. Tannins are chewy but have softened a bit with bottle age and a dried citrus-peel acidity wraps up the finish. Very nice Barolo that’s in a good place now. A longer finish would push it to higher levels. Score: 91/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘I Tre Vescovi’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2018

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘I Tre Vescovi’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore is aged almost six months in large casks. Notes of cranberry, dried cherry, earth, and a little smokiness from the wood. The palate is much more elegant than the 14% would suggest. Sometimes these Barbera Superiore wines can get much too sappy or heavy. Bright fruit with some structure suggests this could develop even further in the cellar. Score: 89/100

• Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘La Leggenda’ Barbera d’Asti 2019

The Vinchio Vaglio Serra, ‘La Leggenda’ is a fun and easy-going Barbera. It’s straightforward with notes of cherry, sour cherry, cranberry, and a touch of olive. Nothing complex here, just fruit and fun. There’s a touch of earthiness and complexity here for a wine that didn’t see wood. The red fruits fill the palate and there’s just a faint hint of tannins. Don’t dismiss this wine by the score, this is a fabulous, low-cost bistro red that I’d be happy to sip on anyday. Score: 87/100

• Cantina Tramin, ‘Moriz’ Pinot Bianco 2020

The Cantina Tramin, ‘Moriz’ Pinot Bianco is a level above their standard Pinot Bianco. It has notes of melon, cantaloupe, white peach, and mineral notes. It’s a delicious and easy-going white wine. There is a nice interplay between the fruit and lemony acidity. A crowd-pleaser with enough complexity to keep seasoned palates happy and casual palates quenched. I’m almost never disappointed with Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige and this is no different. This is the type of white that I love to drink on a daily basis. Score: 90/100

• Cantina Tramin, Stoan 2019

The Cantina Tramin, Stoan is one of the winery’s high-end offerings. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Gewürtztraminer, and Pinot Bianco aged in large casks. A very unique white wine, there are notes of guava, kiwi, yellow flower, and chestnut. It smells like it would be full-bodied but the acidity here keeps the wine medium-bodied. The wood integration is flawless here, it doesn’t impart flavor but gives it body. The wine is good with length and structure but the flavors could be odd here, I do get some grassiness from the Sauvignon and the pungent floral notes from the Gewürtz along with the body of Chardonnay. It reminds me of a famous white wine called ‘Manna’ from Franz Haas. Score: 91/100

*Find Cantina Tramin bottles at Wine.com.

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Arinto dos Açores 2019

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Arinto dos Açores is a barrel-fermented Arinto that is aged for six months. Gorgeous nose of lemon, lavender, white flower, pineapple, and seawater. The oak integration here is outstanding. The wine has Riesling-like electricity on the palate. There’s a tension that stretches out the seriously salty finish. Brilliant white wine. Score: 93/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Verdelho 2018

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Verdelho is a varietal wine with 20% of the cuvée was barrel-fermented. Explosive nose of flint, lemon, smoke, and white flower. This wine is all about weight and rich texture. The fruit is neutral, mostly sticking to lemons. The salinity here is again intense. This would be great with oysters, very Chablis-esque. Score: 91/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terras de Lava Reserva 2017

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terras de Lava Reserva is a volcanic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc aged for 14 months in oak. The capsicum and smoke jump out of the glass. They are accompanied by intense tobacco notes and subtle black cherry flavors. Lighter in color for these two grapes. On the palate, the Cabernet Franc seems to dominate (which to me is a good thing). It’s a savory, leafy, and mineral-driven red with some slowly building tannins. Those looking for fruit look elsewhere. Those looking for leafy and earthy notes, feel right at home. Score: 90/100

• Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terrantez do Pico 2019

The Pico Wines, ‘Terroir Vulcânico’ Terrantez do Pico is actually made from the grape Malvasia Fina. This wine is barrel-fermented and aged in old oak for six months. Gorgeous nose with intense complexity. It has flavors of lemon, slate, white peach, sea salt, flint, and apple blossom. Incredibly complex. The palate has richness and finesse that is very Chablis-esque. The long finish is like eating a salted lemon (before you do a shot of Tequila). Acid freaks will be right at home with this gorgeous effort. Score: 94+/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Grenache ‘l’Art et le Vin’ 2020

The Vignerons Catalans, Grenache ‘l’Art et le Vin’ is a special edition Grenache aged in vat before being bottled. Fresh red with notes of strawberry, smoked meat, rose petal, and pepper. For an inexpensive red, this is fantastic. There’s plenty of fruit with a meatiness and a peppery edge. It’s listed at 15.5% ABV but acts more like a medium-bodied red. This is friendly Mediterranean red that’s ready to drink right away. Score: 90/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Lesquerde Racine 2018

The Vignerons Catalans, Lesquerde Racine is a Côtes du Roussillon Villages and a blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache. Notes of blackberry, cherry, meat, and a touch of white pepper. It smells like a Southern French red in an easy-going style. Smooth on the entry and easy to drink. The tannins are rounded out well. Drink this with some bbq meats. Score: 88/100

• Vignerons Catalans, Saveurs d’Austrefois Gris 2020

The Vignerons Catalans, Saveurs d’Austrefois Gris is 100% Grenache Gris. There are subtle notes of strawberry, watermelon, parched earth, and tangerine peel. It’s a crisp and refreshing rosé with plenty of acidity to cut through the palate. Simple, fun, and unfussy. Highly recommended for a hot Summer day. Score: 89/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Pico Wines, Vinchio Vaglio Serra, Cantina Tramin, Vignerons Catalans provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Cooperative Wineries: High-Quality Wine At All Prices appeared first on Wine Travel.

“Are you making low alcohol wines because you like them, or is it because it’s what consumers are looking for these days? “

Dirk Niepoort looked at me in the eye for a second before replying, “when it comes to these wines, I don’t give a s@#!t about what the consumer thinks.”

Dirk joined his family company in 1987. From Niepoort’s inception to that point, it was focused as a Port shipper. Dirk spearheaded the company’s transformation and foray into table wines. Today, Niepoort produces a wide range of Port wines and table wines in seemingly every region in Portugal.

Niepoort Vinhos

When Dirk joined Niepoort in 1987, his goal was to make great table wines. His first project was a wine called ‘Robustus’, which was released in 1990 followed by the ‘Redoma’ which was first released a year later. I’ll never forget my first taste of the former, which is anything but robust. Recent vintages have so much ripeness and fruit without being jammy or high in alcohol. The last vintage that I tasted clocked in at 12.2% ABV.

A wine geek at heart, Dirk is one of the most respected winemakers in all of Portugal. I first met him last year at the Douro Boys Auction 2019. After sharing several meals with him, his passion for wine became even more evident. As a Burgundy nut, Dirk crafts wines that he wants to drink.

Niepoort produces wines all over Portugal and collaborates with other winemakers on other projects labeled as Niepoort Projectos. Niepoort reds in places like the Douro, the Dão, and Bairrada show that the region can do more than just concentration and power. Niepoort’s examples are focused on finesse and elegance. They are dare I say, Burgundian.

When my friend first told me about these low alcohol wines (especially from the Douro), I was skeptical. After tasting the wines, I’m a believer. Better yet, these wines are found around the world at fair prices. Wine geeks need to seek these out.

• Fio, ‘Fio’ Riesling 2015 – Mosel, Germany

This is a project collaboration between two young guys and Dirk in the Mosel. It’s a traditional style Riesling that is aged in large casks for two years. Gorgeous nose of baked apple, slate, apricot, and white pepper. There’s plenty of richness and fruit here with perfectly integrated oak. The mineral finish caps off a real winner. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Nat Cool Branco 2019 – Vinho Verde

This is made in old school way of Vinho Verde, bottled with a touch of residual sugar so the wine would re-ferment and have some soft bubbles. It’s a blend of many grapes like Azal, Arinto, Avesso, Trajadura, and Loureiro. This wine has some sediment and cloudiness. Notes of the sea, along with beer yeast, lemon, and grass. Surprisingly fuller in body for a Vinho Verde than I would expect. Spritzy bubbles and lively, fun wine. Buyer beware, some people might think this smells too sulfurous and too much like eggs on the first whiff. You need context before getting served this wine. After a few days in the fridge, it shed its funkiness and what was left is a delicious, minerally white.  Score: 89/100

• Niepoort, Redoma Tinto 2018 – Douro

The Niepoort, Redoma Tinto is one of the staples in Dirk’s portfolio. It’s a field blend including grapes like Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cão, and Tinta Roriz. It’s aged in old oak for 22 months. Even though it’s young there are notes of leather along with sweet red cherry, blueberry, and some mineral tones. Excellent fruit concentration for a wine that is only 12.5% abv. It’s almost like a dense Pinot Noir. The palate is sensual with many layers and fine-grained tannins. Brilliant stuff. Score: 93+/100 

• Niepoort, Concisco 2014 – Dão

This is a field blend made from vines up to 100 years in age. Most of the varieties in the field are Baga and Jaen (Mencia). It’s aged in cask for 20 months. Like a red Burgundy with notes of red forest fruits, forest floor, leather, and pepper. Very complex and rich smelling for a poor vintage and a low alcoholic wine. The fruit is concentrated enough on the front end while the acidity stretches out the finish. Tannins are still a little chewy, which would allow this wine to age well. Very good for a tough vintage. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Bastardo 2018 – Douro

This grape is known as Trousseau in France. This is aged for 20 months in French oak. Very light in color for a red. Notes of fresh cut strawberry, raspberry, flint, white flower, and a touch of muskiness. Delicate and lighter on the palate with plenty of red fruit notes, vibrant acidity, and surprisingly chewy tannins. It reminds me of Nerello Mascalese from Etna. This is fresh and fun but I bet it could really start to soar after time in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Niepoort, Poerinho Baga 2014 – Bairrada

Made from vines of Baga that are over 100 years old. Aged for 20 months in large vats. At only 11% ABV, this really smells like a Burgundy. Savory with notes of leather, sour cherry, stems, and earth. The nose gives way to plenty of Old World notes. Medium-bodied, this doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that Baga can have. High acidity and a juicy finish. This is a wonderful effort for a tough vintage. Score: 91/100

*I talk about this bottle at 2:59 in the video below.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

You might also enjoy:

Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort: Low Alcohol Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Wines made in small clay pots?

In the Fall of 2019, the Wines of Alentejo took me through a one-week jaunt of cellars in this part of Portugal. During the trip, I visited a number of producers who are making wines in clay vessels. Portugal is home to the only appellation in the world dedicated to this technique, known as Vinho de Talha DOC. A year after my first trip to the region, I bumped into a producer of Vinho de Talha that really caught my attention.

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel is a small project by childhood friends Daniel Parreira and Ricardo Santos. There are 26 amphorae (talhas) in the cellar, hence the name XXVI Talhas. Mestre Daniel is the name of Daniel’s grandfather, who was the original owner of the cellar.

The Vinho de Talhas from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are my favorite wines from the appellation. They produce small batches of wine and even single Talha wines (wines coming from a single amphora, like a barrel selection). XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel also produces a line of fresher wines made in small clay pots (no larger than 300 liters). This small pot is called a ‘tareco’.

“We make the ‘do tareco’ wines because we try to do a style as close as possible to the wine we start drinking just after Saint Martin day (11 November),” Ricardo tells me. “All the small producers are waiting for that special day to have their winery full of people,” he continues.

“We bottled the 2020 tareco wines just after 11 November, they are young and fresh, almost like the wine taken from the traditional talhas. The grapes are the same as our Vinho de Talha line but there is maceration time.”

Do Tareco

Do Tareco translates to “from clay pots” and are bottled immediately after Saint Martin’s day. It’s a day dedicated to feasting and drinking fresh wine. I was skeptical before trying the XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco wines. My assumption was that the wines would be too angular, lacking both complexity and drinkability.

Thank goodness, I was wrong. In this style, the Do Tareco wines are stellar. All three wines brim with texture and charisma. Scrap the Beaujolais Noveaux and give these wines a try. Wines made in clay vessels are all the rage these days and these bottles from XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel are examples done right.

Wine Recommendations:

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco do Tarco is a blend of Perrum, Manteúd, Larião, Diagalves, Roupeiro, and Antão Vaz macerated for two months in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a beautiful, pure white wine with notes of pineapple, chalk, white peach, and guava. The nose has the sensation of dried fruit while it has more dried fruit flavors in the mouth. Tannins are a little chewy here. This is a Vinho de Talha (Alentejan amphora wines) in it’s purest form. I’m a big fan. Score: 90/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco 2020

Palhete is traditionally a blend of grapes left over from the harvest, both white and red. The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Palhete do Tarco is basically a deeper rosé that was fermented in small clay pots (tareco). All of the grapes for this wine are harvested and fermented together. Notes of raspberry, cherry, and earthy clay. This is more of a light red with some tannin to it. Bright acidity that cuts through the palate. This is delicious and has the ability to pair with a number of different foods. Essentially, it’s an extreme natural wine in style but those who like conventional wines will find a lot to like here. Score: 90+/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco 2020

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto do Tarco is a blend of Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, and Tinta Grossa fermented in small clay pots called tareco. It’s a fresh red with notes of sour cherry, raspberry, pepper, and mineral notes. Juicy and fruit-forward with a small amount of tannin and a long finish. The acidity here is beautiful for Alentejo (which is a hot region). Drink this on the chilled side. Fans of Cru Beaujolais will find a lot to like here. Score: 91/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

Check Out These & Other Portuguese Natural Wines

You can pick up XXVI Talhas and other Portuguese natural wines at Real Portuguese Wine. Use our discount code and get 10% off. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, you get a discount, and help support our work.

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XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Do Tareco appeared first on Wine Travel.

“We opened this special bottle last night and thought it would be great to share it with you,” Dirk Niepoort said. “The base of this wine is from the mid-1800s.”

I’ve tasted wines several times with Dirk and he’s always generous. If you’re lucky enough to sit down with him, be prepared for something special. Dirk may be the face of one of Portugal’s best-known wine brands but he’s still a wine geek at heart.

Niepoort was founded by Dutch immigrants in the mid-19th century. The modern history of the estate began in 1987 when Dirk Niepoort joined the family business and began expanding it. He helped in shifting the focus of Niepoort from a Port Wine shipper, to a producer of both Ports and table wines.

This estate started as a small shipper but under Dirk’s watch, has become a Portuguese wine powerhouse. Their portfolio encompasses a wide range of Ports and they also make table wines from different regions throughout Portugal. Wines are produced in all price points.

Even though Niepoort has put tremendous effort into table wines, the fine Ports still shine. In addition to the normal ranges of Rubies and Tawnies, Niepoort produces several rare and unique Port wine styles. This includes White Port, Crusted Port, Colheita, VV, and Garrafeira. Niepoort is among the few houses that produces the latter.

Fortunately, the large portfolio doesn’t equate to diluted quality. It’s hard to believe that the wine geek in Dirk would allow that. The quality and age-ability of Niepoort wines is nothing to scoff at. I’m waiting for the world to return to normal so I can return to Portugal and get a taste of that mid-1800s Port again.

While we all look towards a better 2021, here are a few new releases of Niepoort Port wine that should hold us over while we wait.

Niepoort Port Wine Styles

• Niepoort, 10 Years Old White Port

White Ports are not known for being fine wines. The new trend is mixing them with tonic water to make a cocktail. Don’t even think about doing that with the Niepoort, 10 Years Old White Port.

It has a gorgeous amber color and is aged in traditional pipes (Port barrels) for 7 to 15 years before bottling. It smells similar to a tawny Port (albeit a bit fresher) with notes of dried oranges, toffee, sweet peaches, caramel, and slate. On the palate, it’s round and complex. There’s a gorgeous interplay between citrus fruits and acidity on the finish, almost like a ripe mandarin orange. A tiny amount of drying tannins and a lingering finish. Alcohol is well integrated. The finest white Port I’ve tasted. Score: 92/100

• Niepoort, Colheita 1997

The Niepoort, Colheita is a Tawny Port that spent nearly 18 years in casks. The nose is fragrant and explosive with notes of toffee, roasted nuts, caramel, and dried figs. It’s rich and mouth-coating on the palate, almost like a caramel-covered apple. The palate explodes with richness and complexity. It finishes long with an almond, macadamia nut flavor. Great length. Score: 94/100

• Niepoort, Crusted Port 2015

This Niepoort, Crusted Port was bottled in December of 2015 and is a blend of several vintages. It’s a Ruby-style port that offers complexity beyond the price point. There are notes of dried cherry, plum, mocha, and spice. Almost like a Christmas cake. It’s got a generous amount of fruit on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins. It acts like a baby Vintage Port. A real winner in terms of QPR, this can still improve further with bottle aging. Score: 92+/100

• Niepoort, Vintage Port 2015

The Niepoort, Vintage Port is a field blend aged two years in cask. This is a baby and has many years ahead of it but is surprisingly accessible now. Notes of leather, black cherry, red plum, chocolate, and pepper. Full-bodied and rich on the palate. The fruit envelopes the palate like a soft glove and the tangerine peel-like acidity raises at the end. Big, chewy tannins that ensure a long life in the cellar. This tastes even better than when I first had it back in 2019. Score: 95/100

• Niepoort, Garrafeira 1987

Niepoort is the only producer to make Garrafeira Port. Aged four years in cask and the rest of the time in glass Demijohns. The style is between a Vintage Port and Tawny Port. Has the color of an aged Pinot Noir. Notes of red raspberry, sour cherry, garrigue, caramel, toffee, and even a touch of nuttiness. It’s extremely elegant for a Port and the alcohol isn’t burning. The fruit takes center stage here. This doesn’t bring the power of a Vintage Port nor the explosive nuttiness of a Tawny but it does bring complexity and length. Unique and delicious, this still has many years left in the cellar. Score: 96+/100

• Niepoort, VV

The base of the Niepoort VV is from 1863. Extremely rare and bottled in tiny quantities. It’s like an intense, layered Colheita (Tawny). Full of macadamia nuts, marzipan, toffee, dried fig, and caramel flavors. This is full, rich, and multi-faceted on the palate. It feels as if it might be too sticky at first but then the vibrant acidity helps wash the palate clean. The alcohol is balanced and this is in outstanding shape for such an old wine. Score: 94/100

I tasted this from Jeroboam with Dirk Niepoort over dinner in the Fall of 2019.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

You might also enjoy:

Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort – A Port Wine Maestro appeared first on Wine Travel.

Quinta Varzea da Pedra is one of my favorite discoveries of 2020.

Every year, I taste thousands of wines from all over the world. A handful of those wines have that special something, a twinkle in the eye. That’s what drew me to Quinta Varzea da Pedra.

Quinta Varzea da Pedra

Quinta Varzea da Pedra’s distributor Wine Concept was the first to give me a taste of the wine. I had low expectations of that bottle, a Fernão Pires 2017. The first sip flipped immediately intrigued me. I reached out to the winery, wishing to experience their entire portfolio.

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra is a 26-hectare estate in the village of Bombarral. It’s near Lisbon and located within the Obidos DOC region. This is a true gem in the world of wine. There are swathes of inexpensive, well-made, industrial tasting Portuguese wines. Quinta Varzea da Pedra is the exact opposite of that. The wines from Quinta Varzea da Pedra are full of texture and richness at great price points.

The Lisboa Vinho Regional is home to a few dynamic producers. Winemakers all over Portugal rave about the potential of the region. I’ve tasted some impressive stuff coming from the Lisboa VR and with producers like Varzea da Pedra leading the way, the future looks bright. Do yourself a favor and check these wines out.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Fernão Pires 2017

The wine that drew me into the Quinta Varzea da Pedra portfolio. Read all about it in an article from earlier in the year. Score: 91/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Macerado 2017

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Macerado is a blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto foot trodden before the start of fermentation. It’s got a beautiful nose of honey, apricot, baked apple, forest floor, and dried lemon peel. Very complex nose. The palate is loaded with salinity. The tannins are ripe and very soft for an orange wine. High acidity wipes the palate clean. A tad more concentration would push this to higher levels. Score: 89/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco 2018

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco is a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires. Golden color for a fresh white wine. Notes of yellow peach, pineapple, sea salt, and a touch of natural gas. It smells like it would be a ripe, fruity white wine but the palate is full of saltiness. Lemony, spicy finish. Score: 88/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Reserva 2016 

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branca Reserva is a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires that is barrel fermented. This is a fun, textured white wine. Initial notes include lemon zest, yellow peach, beach sand, and just the right amount of sweet oak. The palate is saltier than the fruity nose. Lots of texture here with good length. For a white that is four years old, this doesn’t show a lot of age. Score: 90+/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Reserva 2016

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged for 24 months in oak. This is a dark, full red. Notes of black cherry, cassis, tobacco, and charred wood. The wood shows here and the fruit is still bursting through on the palate. There’s a citrusy acidity that runs down the spine of the wine. The tannins are ripe and round now, making it easy to drink right out of the gate. A few years in the bottle will add complexity. Score: 90/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Grande Reserva 2015

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Grande Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged for 42 months in oak. Dark, dense red that shows plenty of balance. Notes of blackberry, black currant, licorice, black spice, and violets. Round and developed palate. Nothing sticks out here, the fruit, tannins, and acid are in harmony. A slight lemon zest acidity stretches out the finish. A wine with texture and length. It’s packed with fruit and should improve with more time in the cellar. Score: 92/100

*You can see Charine’s notes below:

You might also enjoy:

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If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Thanks to Quinta Varzea da Pedra for the wines. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Quinta Varzea da Pedra appeared first on Wine Travel.

Real Portuguese Wine is aiming to bring Portuguese natural wine to the world!

In the Fall of 2019, I did my annual trip to Portugal. I spent a riveting two and a half weeks traveling through the Douro, Dão, Bairrada, and Alentejo. The trip wrapped up in the capital of Lisbon, where I found myself at Black Sheep Lisboa.

The bar is owned by an American couple and sits in the heart of Lisbon. Over the course of an evening, proprietor Brian Patterson kept my glass full of Portuguese natural wines. Throughout the night, people from all walks of life from Britain to Holland to Canada and the USA back to Portugal. The evening felt like an episode of the old sitcom “Cheers”.

Real Portuguese Wine

Fast forward a few months and Brian reached out to me on Instagram.

He was excited to share the launch of his new venture Real Portuguese Wine. His goal is to present honest, artisanal, natural Portuguese wines to the world. “I’ve been studying and working with Portuguese wines for ten years,” Brian says. “I have a personal relationship with every winemaker in our portfolio. Every wine is curated by me and is a reflection of my time, care, and consideration.”

Natural wine is on the rise around the world, trendy wine bars and restaurant lists are loaded of them. With more attention and demand comes increases in price. This is where Portuguese natural wine really shines, especially these bottles from Real Portuguese Wine.

Portugal is already known for producing wines that exceed their price points. It’s in the Portuguese DNA, fantastic wine at affordable prices is like a birthright. Producers of Portuguese natural wine are cut from the same cloth. Many of these wines would go for double or triple if it was from a different country of origin. Scoop these Portuguese natural wines while you can.

Wine Recommendations:

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• Antonio Madeira, Branco

The Antonio Madeira, Branco is a blend of 2017 & 2018 vintages. This is a macerated field blend. It’s a clean orange wine with notes of sweet peach, sliced apricot, minerals, and a kiss of oak. This is a chewy, clean orange wine. Soft tannins and a lemony, mineral finish. A wine with real soul and pure fun to drink. Score: 90/100

• Torre de Tavares, Mencia 2018

Torre de Tavares aims to produce the pure expression of the Dão. The grape Mencia is also known as Jaen in Portugal. It has notes of red plum, forest berries, stems, and bubblegum. It’s dark-colored, fruity, and plush. There are some chewy tannins here that beg for food. This is a wild, stemmy take on this grape and I adore it. If this does see oak aging, you can’t taste it. Make sure to give it some air before drinking. Score: 89/100

• Arribas, Saroto 2019

The Arribas, Saroto is made from old vines, in the Trás-os-Montes region. There are so many varieties planted in the vineyards, that the Arribas owners don’t know what they all are. They do know there’s plenty of Douro grapes here. Notes of strawberry, raspberry, pepper, and a touch of violets. This is juicy and low in alcohol. There is plenty of acidity here. The tannic structure isn’t big but they do sneak up on you. Conventional wine drinkers will find this too thin and acidic. However, in the style of easy-drinking, minimal intervention reds, I think this is very well done. Score: 90/100 

• Duckman, Branco 2019

Made by Maria João Pato, daughter of Luis Pato. The Duckman, Branco is made from Bical aged in wood for six months. Notes of bright tropical fruit like pineapple and starfruit along with some lemon and white flower notes. This is an extreme white wine that is full of flavor. There is a touch of tannin here which adds to the complexity. There’s a fine lemongrass finish. There’s a lot of sediment here but don’t be scared. Crazy and full of personality. Score: 90+/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Branco 2019

XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel is named after the 26 Talhas (amphorae) in his small cellar. The Branco is a blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro fermented in Talha (amphora). Only filtered off using the stems. Attractive notes of daffodil, fresh-cut pineapple, chalk, and even some red cherry. Full-bodied and surprisingly fruity on the palate. Gentle tannins on the back end. In general, I tend to favor red Vinho de Talha over whites. These two wines from Mestre Daniel are giving me a change of heart. Score: 91/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Tinto is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez (Tempranillo), and Tinta Grossa fermented in talha (amphora). Gorgeous nose of black cherry, blackberry, violets, and earth. It smells a lot like a cooler climate red. It’s not a big alcoholic monster, it’s tart and herbal on the palate. More medium in body. The complexity here is undeniable and the interplay between fruit and earth is very attractive. Chewy tannins. Score: 91/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha X 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha X is a blend of Antão Vaz, Diagalves, Perrum, Roupeiro, and Manteúdo from one single Talha (amphora). Notes of sweet peach, chamomile tea, tangerine, and pineapple with a touch of chalk. This is a wine that shows concentration beyond what the alcohol level (11.5%) suggests. Generous fruit on the mouth which has many layers of texture. This has more richness, tannin, and staying power than the standard ‘Branco’ bottling. Long finish. Score: 92/100

• XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, ‘Talha XV’ Tinta Grossa 2019

The XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel, Talha XV is made from a single Talha (amphora) It is 100% Tinta Grossa. Very pretty nose of red raspberry, red plum, and incense with some chalky tones. This has a mouth full of pure fruit flavors along with some subtle stemmy notes. This carries its 14% abv very well and feels plenty fresh in the mouth. The tannins are round and surprisingly plush for a red that is young and didn’t see oak. Long finish, as far as Vinho de Talha reds go, this is the cream of the crop. Score: 92+/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Real Portuguese Wine and XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Real Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Portuguese wine is the gift that keeps on giving.

This small country packs a punch when it comes to wine. It’s not a secret that I adore Portuguese wine and jump at the opportunity to taste it whenever possible. The world needs what Portugal has to offer. Delicious wines made from unique grapes at more than fair price points.

This year, thanks to COVID, it looks like I will miss my annual trip to Portugal. Thankfully, many producers have softened the blow by sending samples to taste. One of those organizations that came to my rescue is the Family Wine Growers Portugal.

Family Wine Growers Portugal

The Family Wine Growers Portugal is an agency that helps smaller producers distribute and export their wine all over the world. They reached out to me and asked me to taste several of the producers they represent. Based on what I tasted, they’ve chosen a fine set of producers for their portfolio.

“We make an assessment based on quality, family heritage, and ability to respond to export processes,” says Dora Caseiro, a co-owner of Family Wine Growers Portugal. “If a producer scores 90% in all of our parameters, we accept to manage their exports.”

All of the wines I tasted for this article show export potential. All of the wines are available in Portugal for less than 17 Euros on the shelf, many of them hovering around or under the 10 Euros range. Around the world, these wines should be able to be found at wallet-friendly prices. When it comes to price-quality, all of these wines deliver. The more Portuguese wine available, the merrier.

Wine Recommendations:

Portuguese White Wine

• Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato has notes of quince, white apricot, white peach, and a touch of yogurt. Full body and chewy, this tastes like it was barrel fermented. There’s a nice streak of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Longer finish. This is a rich, full-bodied white in the true Douro style. Score: 90/100

• Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho is a delicious, bigger style of Alvarinho with some Viosinho blended in for acidity. This has notes of lime, lemon, white flower, and cool yogurt notes. It’s a rich wine with depth and layers. The wine has length and a slight green streak to it along with a flinty, slatey finish. This will be fantastic with shellfish all the way up to creamy chicken dishes. Score: 90+/100

• S. Caetano, Alvarinho 2019

The S. Caetano, Alvarinho is a beautiful crispy white wine and a great value to boot (comes in at under 10 Euros in Porugal). Notes of lime, lemon, and seawater. This has the zesty acidity that is common with the grape on a bigger-bodied frame. This is the perfect shellfish wine. Tangy finish. Score: 90/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva 2017

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva is from the Dão and partially aged in oak. It’s a gorgeous wine. There are notes of quince, green pear, and white peach along with subtle yogurt and mineral notes. It’s an elegant, medium-bodied white that sits nicely on the palate. Bracing acidity for a barrel-aged wine and a long, salty, and mineral-driven finish. Score: 91/100

• Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto 2017

The Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto is a sparkling wine from Arinto, Chardonnay, and Baga. This has spent 9 months in the bottle. Notes of mineral, white flower, white pear, lemon, and a hint of biscuit. This has a fine bead of bubbles. Fruity and easy to drink with just a hint of complexity. This has a hint of volatile acidity, which adds to the complexity. Crisp and clean finish. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco is a barrel-aged blend of Semillon and Arinto. It is shy at first as the wood sticks out at the beginning. As the wine breathes and gains air there are flavors of white flower, white pear, white peach, and white apricot. Oily mouthfeel with well-integrated wood. There is a line of bright acidity that stretches the palate. This is good now but it really built to age. Score: 90+/100

Portuguese Red Wine

• Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva 2015

The Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and other varieties aged in new oak for 12 months. It’s hard to believe that this is five years old, it smells like really fresh red wine. There are notes of black cherry pie, mulberry, and a little white pepper. It’s a fruit dominant red. Full-bodied and plush it has mouth-coating tannins. The fruit carries through all the way and the alcohol isn’t felt. Easy drinking, full-bodied red now but it has the potential to improve in the cellar. Score: 89/100

• S. Caetano, Vinhão 2018

The S. Caetano, Vinhão is a unique Vinho Verde Tinto made from Vinhão aka Sousão. Dark and inky with notes of blackberry, black raspberry, black cherry, and a hint of black licorice. On the first sniff, you might think that it’s a big, brooding red but there is plenty of acidity here. The acid isn’t searing like many examples of the grape can be but there’s enough of it. Soft tannins and a refreshing, fresh red to sip on without fuss. Score: 87/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature 2015

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature is a brilliant red wine. Made from Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. This isn’t a big bomb, there’s plenty of fruit here but it doesn’t overwhelm you with ripeness. Flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, black tea, menthol, and gravel. There’s enough fruit upfront with subtle complexities on the backend. The tannins build slowly but are never too dry. High acidity that should ensure this has a long life ahead. They call Dão the Burgundy of Portugal and one taste of this will tell you why. Score: 92/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional 2016

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional is another delicious Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. The nose draws you in right away with the notes of blackberry, red raspberry, crushed flowers, and pine. It’s a dark, inky red wine that is generous on the palate right from the first sip. The tannins are chewy and sweet, which feel great in the mouth. This is a beauty to drink now. Score: 91/100 

• Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva 2015

The Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga, Syrah, and Merlot. It’s a wine that has resisted aging with notes of blackberry, black cherry, and a touch of tobacco & pencil lead. It’s a big, fruity wine that has the oak under control. There’s a mouthful of fruit up front with some grippy tannins on the back end. It’s a delicious red but doesn’t have the refinement to be great but it doesn’t have to be. At this price, this is a real winner. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Tinto is a blend of Caledoc and Touriga Nacional. This is beautiful and very Portuguese in flavor. Notes of blackberry, black raspberry, bramble, stems, and pepper notes. This has plenty of ripe fruit but it isn’t a big wine, it’s more medium-bodied. Chewy tannins and vibrant acidity. Delicious and accessible. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva 2007

Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. There is beautiful development here with notes of leather, tobacco, dried raspberry, dried cherry, and pepper. The palate still has substantial tannins and an earthy finish. There’s plenty of plush, developed fruit with high acidity. It acts almost Pinot Noir-esque. If you want the taste of aged wine that doesn’t break the bank, this is worth checking out. Score: 91/100

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Thanks to the Family Wine Growers Portugal and the wineries for arranging samples to be sent. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Portuguese Wine |The More, The Merrier appeared first on Wine Travel.

Unique wines at great price points produced/served by wonderful people. Couple that with a diverse range of growing conditions and there are real reasons to champion Portuguese wine.

Portuguese Wine Distributor: Wine Concept

During the Fall of 2019, I did a whirlwind two-week trip through Portugal. The trip started with the Douro Boys Auction followed by stints in the Dão, Bairrada, Lisbon, and Alentejo. During my visit with Esporão, head winemaker David Baverstock told me he had his own project in Alentejo called Howard’s Folly. I wasn’t able to visit the estate but David directed me to his distributor Wine Concept in Lisbon.

Upon arriving in Lisbon from Alentejo, I headed straight to Wine Concept. During the course of an afternoon, the opened bottles from Howard’s Folly and other producers in their portfolio. After a few hours of tasting, I packed up and left their office.

Once out the door, I got a call. Wine Concept owner, Nuno Neves de Sousa invited me out to lunch with the team. Another few hours went by filled with laughter, food, and wine. When I finally left it occurred to me. This is everything that I adore about Portugal.

When the world went into lockdown in March 2020, I found myself stuck in Croatia. Wine Concept was kind enough to send me a case of wines to sample. In the pack, 11 of the 12 wines were good to very good (one bottle was a faulty bottle, which happens). The selection was a great representation os Portuguese wine and all are available in Portugal for 15 Euros or less. Did I mention that I love Portuguese wine?

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

White Portuguese Wine

• Casa de Saima, Bairrada Vinhas Velhas 2018 – Bairrada

The Casa de Saima, Bairrada Vinhas Velhas (old vines) 2018 is a blend of Maria Gomes, Bical, and Cercial. It’s a wine that doesn’t see oak but remains on the lees for a year. It has an oily mouthfeel with notes of pine, green guava, lemon, mineral, and gas. Rich concentration with a slightly flinty finish. For a wine that can be found under 10 Euros in Portugal, this is a steal. Score: 90+/100

 

• Dona Paterna, Alvarinho 2019 – Monção e Melgaço

The Dona Paterna, Alvarinho 2019 is a zesty and fresh white. There are notes of lemon, curd, cumin, and minerals. The nose is quite subtle but the wine shoots through your palate like a laser. Focused fruit with a steely finish. Pair this with oysters and watch the magic happen, very well done at this price. Score: 90/100

 

• Pico Wines, Frei Gigante 2018 – Pico

I tasted the Pico Wines, Frei Gigante 2018 on several occasions. The first time was was the GoVolcanic Tasting 2019 in Budapest. This bottle didn’t show as well as previous encounters. Chalk it up to a bad bottle. Check out my first review of the wine HERE.

 

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Fernão Pires 2017 – Óbidos

The biggest surprise in this selection is the Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Fernão Pires 2017. This grape is also known as Maria Gomes. Beautiful notes of pine, gas, white pear, lemon, and seawater. It’s full of white fruit on the palate, yet finishes with a mineral edge. This is everything I like about Portuguese white wines, there’s enough fruit but the sharp, salty edge is what makes the wine interesting. Score: 91/100

 

• Quinta Vale de Fornos, Arinto Chardonnay Gewürstraminer Reserva 2018 – Tejo

The Quinta Vale de Fornos, Arinto Chardonnay Gewürstraminer Reserva 2018 is aged in French oak. Unusual blend that was aged in oak. It has the aromatic Gewürtztraminer in the blend but it’s still neutral on the nose. Notes of white pear, white flower, chalk, and citrus emerge from the glass. The palate is surprisingly bright and full. It’s not an uber complex white wine but there is body, flavor, and plenty of tangy acidity making it more than a simple poolside sipper. Score: 89/100

• Amareleza, ‘José Piteiro’ Vinho de Talha Branco 2015 – Alentejo 

This is a real gem. The Amareleza, ‘José Piteiro’ Vinho de Talha Branco 2015 consists of Diagalves and Roupeiro fermented in talha (amphora). Brown in color, almost like a tawny port. This is a highly oxidized style of wine with notes of caramel, fall leaves, nuts, apricot, and toffee. Not a lot of fruit here, it’s more nutty and savory. Fine texture and a small amount of tannins. This is yummy, complex stuff but buyer beware, it’s not a fruity white wine. Almost like a dry tawny port. Score: 92/100

 

Red Portuguese Wine

• Amareleza, ‘José Piteiro’ Vinho de Talha Tinto 2017 – Alentejo 

The Amareleza, ‘José Piteiro’ Vinho de Talha Tinto 2017 is made from the grape Moreto and fermented in talha (amphora). Moreto is not a well-known grape but it is praised by winemakers in Alentejo because of its ability to retain acidity. There are notes of stem, black cherry, red plum, and a touch of white pepper. It smells like a cool weather red but has the lusciousness and mouthfeel of a warm climate red. The finish is exceptionally fruity with ripe, sweet tannins. Very delicious for a red wine made in amphora. Score: 89/100

 

• Casa de Saima, Pinot Noir 2017 – Bairrada

The Casa de Saima, Pinot Noir 2017 is not a typical Pinot Noir but a nice take on the grape. Made by a minimal intervention producer. Notes of cherry, rubber, sea salt, and clay. It’s silky on the palate with bright acidity. This is an interesting take on Pinot Noir, it’s definitely in the category of a “natural wine” but it’s well done. Plenty of juicy red berry fruits with low amount of tannin. Handled lightly and it’s clean for a natural wine, which is a big plus. Score: 90/100

 

• Quinta Vale de Fornos, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2016 – Tejo

The Quinta Vale de Fornos, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2016 is made from old vines and aged in French oak for 12 months. It has a unique nose for Cabernet Sauvignon. There are notes of thyme, tar, black currant, and earth. There’s plenty of dark fruit upfront on the palate. It’s full-bodied and round on the palate but finishes with grippy tannins. Very good Cab considering the price point, where else can you get solid Cabernet Sauvignon for around 11 Euros? Score: 89/100

• Casa Américo, Jaen 2015 – Dão

The Casa Américo, Jaen 2015 is a deep red from the Dão. This grape is also known as Mencia in Spain. Notes of pine, blackberry, black cherry, and crushed rocks. It’s full on the palate without being too broad or fat. There is plenty of acidity here and a thyme-like vintage. It’s a wonderful interpretation of the Dão. Score: 90+/100

• Quinta do Pinto, Petit Verdot & Alfrocheiro 2015 – Lisboa

The Quinta do Pinto Petit Verdot & Alfrocheiro 2015 has a French red grape in the blend but this is a Portuguese red through and through. This is dark and inky in color. There are notes of red plum, cherry, leather, and soy sauce. It’s full in body but not massive. There’s a savory note to the wine but the fruit is still the highlight here. Firm tannins. It’s not typical Petit Verdot, which isn’t a bad thing. Score: 88/100

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If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Thanks to Wine Concept for providing tasting samples. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Why I Love Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated.

Quinta de Santiago, Alvarinho

The wines of Vinho Verde are some of Portugal’s most recognizable. In the past, the wines were thin, acidic, and a little frizzy. They were meant to be served in cafes, served to those who cared little what was in the glass. Those days of cheap, insipid Vinho Verde are in the past.

This region in the northern reaches of Portugal is home to young producers who want to push the quality bar higher. This includes Joana Santiago, a former lawyer who returned to her family estate to produce great white wine. It was a choice that happened naturally, “At the beginning, I thought I could do both, law and wine. But I became so involved with Quinta de Santiago that I never wanted to spend one minute in law,” Joana says.

Joana’s story speaks to me, having been a Chiropractor in my previous life before jumping into wine. Once the wine bug bites you, it doesn’t let go. Joana looks like she’s made the right choice as her wines are full of energy and charm. Here’s a look at the current releases from Quinta de Santiago.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Quinta de Santiago, Alvarinho 2018

The Quinta de Santiago, Alvarinho has a bright and expressive nose with lemon, white peach, seawater, and mineral notes. There’s a lively green acidity that runs through this wine. It’s light, crunchy, and breezy. It is a perfect companion to shellfish and baked chicken.

Bottles like this are what make Portugal such an exciting wine country. It’s an affordable wine from a unique grape that over-delivers. This is something to pick up by the case for upcoming summer barbeques Score: 90/100

• Quinta de Santiago, Alvarinho Reserva 2018

Part of the Quinta de Santiago, Alvarinho Reserva was aged in wood for six months. The wood comes out here and adds nice support to the lemon, white peach, dandelion, and mineral notes. It’s fuller in body than the standard bottling with more concentration. I bet this ages well as all the components come together. It’s delicious now but could be a whopper with time in the bottle. Score: 91/100

• Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim 2019

Joana makes the Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim with help from Pedro Ribeiro from Herdade do Rocim in Alentejo. It’s 100% Alvarinho. There are notes of lime, green apple, yogurt, and a green mint streak. This is a crisp white but the weight gives a lot more. Full-bodied and bone dry. Even though it was made in amphora, it has a slight steely character and a long, botanical finish. I like the 2018 a little more, but with time in the bottle, this could improve immensely. Score: 91+/100

If you reside in Portugal, you can purchase Quinta de Santiago wines and get them shipped to your door at Adegga Marketplace.

You might also enjoy:

Alentejo: Plush Red Portuguese Wine and More.

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If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Quinta de Santiago provided tasting samples. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Amphora wines are in fashion these days and are produced all over the world. While making wines in amphora (qvevri) may have originated in Georgia, the technique was revitalized by Joško Gravner (Collio, Italy). But, it is Portugal that has the world’s only appellation dedicated to wines made in amphora.

In Alentejo, these vessels go by the name “talha”. It is derived from the Latin word “Tinalia” which refers to a large pot or vessel. In the past, talhas were used to store liquids like wine and olive oil. Today, the region is at the forefront of this new (yet ancient) style of Portuguese wine.

DOC Vinho de Talha

In 2012, the DOC “Vinho de Talha” was introduced. The law states that grapes can be grown in all eight subregions of Alentejo. To be certified as a Vinho de Talha, the wine must stay in the talha (amphora) from harvest until at least 11th of November. This is St. Martin’s day and marked the day when the Talhas were tapped traditionally to enjoy the wine throughout the year.

You can learn more about talha winemaking and the traditions in the short video below.

Portuguese wine from amphora in Alentejo dates back to Roman times, around 2000 years ago. Although the traditions have persisted in the region, it’s only recently that the wines have had a commercial renaissance. Many of the wineries, big and small, have added Vinho de Talha wines to their portfolio.

One distinctive difference in the amphora winemaking in Alentejo is the bunghole at the bottom of the vessel. Unlike qvevri in Georgia, the amphorae in Alentejo are not buried. They are kept above ground and the finished wine is drained out through a bunghole in the bottom, instead of being pumped out from the top of the vessel.

Youth is another major difference in Vinho de Talha wines versus many amphora wines made in other parts of the world. All of the wines I tasted were from the previous harvest and were not aged in anything other than talha and bottle. The reds and the whites all have chewy tannins. It was also great to see that none of the wines were oxidized. In general, Of all the wines I tasted, the red “Vinho de Talhas” showed better than the whites.

There are no current producers of high-quality talhas in Portugal. It’s difficult for producers to hunt down amphorae in good condition. Limited vessels mean that the production of Vinho de Talha is small.

Professor Talha

To really understand the modern talha movement in Alentejo, you must see the “professor”.

Professor Arlindo Maria Ruivo was instrumental in the formation of the Vinho de Talha DOC. He has one of the largest collections of talhas in the region at around 50. Visiting his cellar in the small village of Vila de Frades was the highlight of my trip through the region. It’s a small cellar under the family home but brims with energy and romanticism (similar to Gravner’s cellar in Collio, Italy).

I couldn’t directly communicate with the professor but could see the genuineness in his eyes and hear the passion in his voice. Professor Arlindo learned the art of talha winemaking in the 1960s by his father-in-law who founded the Adega Vidigueira cooperative winery.

Professor Arlindo produces small batches of wine with his granddaughter Teresa. I got a sneak preview of the wines and can’t wait to taste the finished products, they will be bottled under the name Gerações da Talha. It’s only right that the godfather of the modern talha movement has his own brand on the market.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

*The production of Vinho de Talha is limited, which means that many of these wines are only available at the wineries.

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Roupeiro 2018

Made from the grape Roupeiro, which stays on the skins for three months. Interesting nose of sweet peach, green guava, caramel, and dried apricot. This is a fantastic amphora. Weighty on the palate with salty and mineral notes. This has a slight sherry note on the finish. Gritty texture and a long finish. Just a touch of grippy tannins. Score: 90/100

• Esporão, Vinho de Talha Moreto 2018

The Esporaão Vinho de Talha Moreto is lighter in color for a red with notes of cherry, farm mud, mocha, and white pepper. Medium-bodied and juicy on the palate, you cannot feel the 14% of alcohol. Really nervy acidity and grippy tannin. Savory texture and good length on the palate. Score: 91+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (white) 2016

The José de Sousa Puro Talha White is an extreme wine, it’s a blend of Antão Vaz, Manteúdo, and Diagalves. Fermented in talhas and aged with a layer of olive oil on top to prevent oxidation, old school style. Low in alcohol at 12% abv. It spends four months with the skins. Old school in style with pumpkin, apricots, ginger. High acidity, this is a bit funky and almost tastes unfinished. Has a sherry-like finish. Very challenging and unique white wine. In between an orange wine and a sherry. Score: 90+/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Puro Talha (red) 2015

The José de Sousa Puro Talha red is made with Grand Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonez aged for 16 months in Talha and covered with olive oil. This is lower in alcohol at 12.5% ABV with an attractive nose of forest berry, fall leaves, earth, and cherry. This almost smells like a Sangiovese. Medium-bodied and elegant, this has very high acidity. The firm tannins beg for food but they aren’t overly drying. Score: 91/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Branco 2018

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Art. Terra Amphora Branco is mostly Arinto with some Antão Vaz. The wine stayed on the skins for three months in Talha. There are flavors of lemon, white peach, and tangerine peel. It is fresher than a normal orange wine. There is a slight nuttiness on the finish, but overall it is crisp. Salty and low level of tannins. Score: 89/100

• São Miguel, Art. Terra Amphora Tinto 2017

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The São Miguel Art. Terra Amphora red is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Moreto. Notes of pine, blackberry, black plum, and pepper. This is medium-bodied and silky with firm tannins. This has bright acidity to keep the wine light. Unique, delicious, and well made with a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Herdade do Rocim, Amphora 2018

The Herdade do Rocim Amphora is a blend of Moreto, Trincadeira, Tinta Grossa, and Aragonez. Notes of sour cherry, green herbs, pepper, and burnt meat. This is wild and juicy with firm tannins. Distinctive and unique. Very delicious. Made in amphora with no temperature control and indigenous yeasts. Score: 90+/100

• Vidigueira, Vinho de Talha 2018

The Vidigueira Vinho de Talha is a blend of grapes from bush vines over 100 years old. Grapes are Antão Vaz, Larião, Diagalves, Manteúdo, Perrum and Siria on the skins for three months. Concentrated with apricot, white peach, lemon peel, and fall leaves. Full-bodied and rich with about 2.5 g/L of RS. Full and chewy, ripe tannins, and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Cartuxa, Vinho de Talha 2017

The Cartuxa Vinho de Talha is made from Alicante Bouschet kept in the talha for eight months. There is a dark core of fruit with black cherry, blackberry, mulberry, smoke, and earth. This is full-bodied with firm tannins. It has weight and texture. The tannins are a bit fierce now and it would be interesting to see where this goes with time. Score: 89/100

• Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim, Alvarinho 2018 – Vinho Verde

The Santiago na Ânfora do Rocim Alvarinho is a cooperation between Herdade de Rocim in Alentejo and Quinta de Santiago in Vinho Verde. It’s made from Alvarinho. The grapes stay on the skins for two months and are fermented only in amphora. There are notes of yeast, lemon, and lime. This is a fresh white wine with texture. The time on the skins give texture but no tannins. Lively acidity rushes through the palate, tastes like a Cru Muscadet with a long finish. Score: 92/100 

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