Hello! Welcome to As Drunk By Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature wines that are worth noting. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Gut Oggau Winery (Neusiedlersee, Burgenland, Austria)

Established in 2007, Gut Oggau is a 13-hectares estate located in Austria’s Burgenland wine region. Husband and wife Eduard Tscheppe and Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck are farming according to biodynamic principles in the Demeter-certified estate vineyards.  The annual production is around 18,000 bottles.

Photo from Gut Oggau’s website.

Together with German artist Jung von Matt, they’ve created a family of fictional characters for the bottle labels. By using anthropomorphism, each character represents a different expression of the wine’s style and vineyard age. The children represent younger wines that are easy to drink. The parents represent wines with bolder flavors, and the grandparents represent wines from the oldest vineyards. The artist redraws the labels for every new vintage, adding ‘a year of age’ to the characters that the wines are named after.

Each wine is made from grapes harvested from a single plot. Most of the plots contain field blends, and the primary grapes are Blaufränkisch, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Welchriesling, and Zweigelt. The fruit is vinified with a minimal-intervention approach in the winery.

Photo credit: Thomas Leitner

The Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé is made from a grape called Roesler. When it was first poured into the glass, we noticed the light ruby color, which looked more like a light red wine than a rosé. 

Roesler, the Austrian Hybrid Grape

Named after Leonhard Roesler, the former director of Austria’s oldest viticultural college, Roesler is an Austrian hybrid with around 140 hectares (relatively little amount) planted in the country. Registered as a quality grape in the year 2000,  it was developed in 1970 by crossing Zweigelt and another hybrid called Klosterneuburg 1189-9-77 (with Blaufränkisch parentage). Roesler is categorized as a PIWI (Pilzwiderstandsfähigen Reben), which means it is resistant to fungal disease. It is also resistant to winter frost, making it an ideal grape that thrives in Austria’s harsh continental winter.

Commonly used as a blending grape for red wine, Roesler imparts deep color, rich extract, good structure, and moderate tannins to a wine.

Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé 2016

Ah! Now it makes sense: the Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé has an unusually intense color due to the grape.

With a sniff and a sip, on the first impression, this wine is redolent of the Georgian ancient grape Chitistvala.

Notes of wild strawberry, raspberry, and cranberry are accompanied by characteristics of hay, flint, and white pepper. The flavor attack in the mouth is bright and intense with a mid-palate spike. Juicy acidity leads the wine into a notably long finish with persistent spiciness and a gentle tug from the tannins. What’s particularly memorable about this rosé is how silky smooth and light it is on the palate and how it harmoniously transforms into a powerful finish.

To simplify its merits: it’s like an imaginary blend of Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Etna Rosso.

This is arguably the most exciting rosé we’ve tasted in 2017.

4.4/5  (You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Technical notes: Vines are planted in limestone soil. A few hours of maceration. Spontaneous fermentation in 500-liter barrels. Eight-month aging in 500-liter barrels. Bottled without additional sulfur.

Find or buy Gut Oggau wine on Wine Searcher.

PS: Thanks a lot to our friend Thomas Leitner for introducing us to this wine.

The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers.

The post Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé 2016 appeared first on Wine Travel.

Check out our wine travel guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country. 

Los Olivos is a town located in Santa Ynez Valley. Despite its small population of about 1,000 people, the town is constantly bustling due to its plethora of tasting rooms, restaurants, cafes, galleries, and boutiques. There are around 50 tasting rooms, representing wineries and vineyards from all over Santa Barbara County. The number of award-winning and highly scored wines that can be found here is astounding. A wine lover can easily spend a week here and sip well every single day.

For wine nerds and movie buffs: there’s a famous movie line that once affected the global wine sales and the scene takes place in Los Olivos.

Outstanding Wine Tasting Rooms in Los Olivos

The theme here is similar to Lompoc Wine Ghetto – it isn’t about the quality level but rather personal preference when selecting the producers to visit. We can’t stress enough how important it is to explore wine with an open mind. During our research trip, a few places that we had planned to visit were closed, so we ended up reworking our schedule with ideas from the people we met along the way. We took recommendations from the acquaintances we met in town and went to visit Tercero and Kaena – two producers we hadn’t heard of prior to our trip. Both producers turned out to be a pleasant surprise and a breath of fresh air. They are excellent choices for people who tend to feel intimidated by wine but simultaneously curious to explore the diversity and sensory merits of it.

If you like richly flavored wine with an exuberant lift, then Dragonette is the tasting room to check out. All the wines are excellent and tell the characteristics of the various sources. The highlight for us is the rosé made from Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah.

For some of the best examples of Pinot Noir, head to Samsara. The Samara Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir is one of our favorite Pinot Noirs of Santa Barbara Wine Country. We love how it is not overtly fruity yet still captures the Californian sun with an underlying elegance.

If you’re a big wine geek who wants to understand the appellations, geographical characteristics, soil types, and climatic features in Santa Barbara County, then J.Wilkes is a place you shouldn’t miss. Wes Hagen has been a winemaker in Santa Barbara since 1994 and is now at the helm of J.Wilkes. Wes also did the research and wrote the petitions for Sta Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon and Happy Canyon AVAs. When we visited the J.Wilkes tasting room, he was there to walk us through the maps of Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley in greater detail than anything we could find anywhere else.

Charine Tan, Matthew Horkey, and Wes Hagen.

One thing to note is that while the operating hours are relatively uniform and that’s 11AM to 5PM, the days that each tasting room is open vary. It is also common for the rooms to be opened or closed at a different time from their official hours.

Planning a trip to Santa Barbara?
Want to learn more about Santa Barbara wines?

Our visitor-friendly guide to the wines and tasting rooms of Santa Barbara is available now!
Check out Sipping Santa Barbara: Recommended Wines and Producers for more information.

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You May Also Enjoy

• Santa Barbara Wine Country: Appellations and Region’s Layout
• Sipping Buellton: Wines and Other Gastronomic Delights
• Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail: Highlights & Tips
• 10 Wines to Try in Santa Barbara County

The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions. 

The post A Vinous Dream: Wine Tasting in Los Olivos appeared first on Wine Travel.

Third time’s the charm; the proverb rings true in this case. I first tasted the Doja Prokupac at Vinodonia Skopje Wine Salon in November 2016 and a second time at Salon Vina Kragujevac in April 2017. It wasn’t until a month ago, when I finally had the pleasure of enjoying a whole bottle with Matt and Mileta Popovic (our friend who runs the website Serbian Wine Guide), that I finally felt an affinity for this wine.

With imploding enthusiasm, I made a post on Instagram and Facebook about this vinous seducer. The post caught the attention of Vinarija Doja, and Milica from the team invited us to a tasting of the entire portfolio. It was a treat to finally meet the brains and hands behind this relatively new winery.  2014 was the first vintage of Doja, with the release of Doja Belo and Doja Rose. The first vintage of Doja Prokupac was 2015.

It seems timely that I’m finally putting the tasting notes together in an article as Doja Prokupac 2015 has just been crowned “Best Indigenous Red Variety” at The Balkans International Wine Competition (BIWC) 2017.

Vinarija Doja (Winery Doja) in Toplica, Serbia

The Doja’s winery and vineyards are near the Prokuplje town, in Serbia’s Toplica wine-growing region. The total estate size is 60 hectares and 40 percent is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Prokupac, Shiraz, and Tamjanika. The current annual production is 100,000 bottles. All the wines are made from estate grapes that are hand-harvested from south-facing vineyards, planted between 400-500 meters above sea level. The vineyards are surrounded by mountains on all sides.

The management and winemaking team come with experience. The proprietor Goran Todić has been in the wine-importing business for decades. His wife, Slavica Todić, is a Head of Department of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade. The oenologist is Dr. Marko Malićanin, a PhD in chemistry and biochemistry.

Vinarija Doja’s Wines

Photo Credit: Doja Winery

Vinarija Doja Belo 2015

The Vinarija Doja Belo 2015 is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Grigio. The Serbian white wine production is dominated by varietal wines of Tamjanika and Chardonnay, so a blend of this sort definitely catches my attention immediately. Fermentation was done in Inox (50% of the Chardonnay was in the barrels) and left on the lees for three months. This medium-bodied white wine is round on the palate with refreshing acidity. The flavors are of ripe peach, lemon, yogurt, and mineral.

Verdict: The combination of its mineral backbone, white-fleshed fruit flavor, and popping acidity transports me back to the white wine wonderland of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The Doja Belo 2015 is such a crowd-pleaser that you can feel confident about bringing it to a family gathering of non-wine-drinking relatives or an afternoon barbecue with your wine geek friends.

Vinarija Doja Rose 2015

The Vinarija Doja Rose 2015 is made from 100% Prokupac grapes. If you enjoy a bigger-bodied, savory-style rosé with deep color and modest acidity, then this is for you. An oxymoron but true to its taste, this wine possesses mature freshness. It has just a bit of residual sugar that lends the body some weight and roundness. The flavors are of red berries, earth, and the quintessential peppery spice of Prokupac. A gentle tug from the tannin offers muscle to the structure and end-palate.

Verdict: A carpe diem rosé! I was up alone one night and finished the entire bottle all by myself. This rosé feels closer to sunset than sunrise and more appropriate for dinner than brunch. Just don’t insult it by taking it to the pool.

Vinarija Doja Prokupac 2015

This is the wine that won the regional title of “Best Indigenous Red Variety” at BIWC 2017.

Fermented in Inox, then aged in the barrels for eight months. This wine has settled down and grown up healthily since the first and second time I tasted it. The oaky-doaky is gone. The aggressive cherryade and vanilla flavors have faded. With just the slightest boost (~10%) from Syrah and Merlot, this Prokupac wine exhibits a comparatively big frame. Floral accent on the nose, mostly of dried rose petal and violet. Stunning front loading of cherry flavor; hints of spice and grass on the mid-palate; and a tart finish supported by gently chewy tannins. A fruit-forward wine yet with enough white pepper, clove, and sweet spice notes to even out the taste. This is a more modern interpretation of Prokupac; it isn’t as spicy and earthy as those from the Župa wine region but delicious when taken on its own merits.

Verdict: This reminds me of an entry-level Californian Pinot Noir (and not without a touch of Petite Sirah or Syrah) that has undergone whole-cluster fermentation. It’s neither a sit-under-the-linden-tree-and-introspect kind of wine nor one that demands meticulous examination. But if given the chance to make a first impression as the representative of Serbian red wine, this would impress many drinkers and win a handful of brand ambassadors. I’ll be sure to take a sip or ten of this wine every time I’m in Serbia.

Get to Know Prokupac

Prokupac is an indigenous red wine grape of Serbia. It produces wine with medium body, high acidity, and flavors of red fruit and pepper spice. I often find the well-made Prokupac wine to be redolent of a mix of Gamay and Blaufränkisch. Regardless, Prokupac has its own unique set of sensory attributes and these comparisons are only useful as a nascent framework for those who have not had the opportunity to taste it. To learn more about Prokupac, you can take a look at these two articles that Matt wrote: Serbian Prokupac: Eight Wines to Try and Prokupac from South-Central Serbia.

 
Updates:

Exotic Wine Trave’s Prokupac Harvest 2017 with Vinarija Doja

In October 2017, we were invited to join the Doja team at their Prokupac harvest. Besides the expected learning outcomes and the fun of post-harvest celebration, what was truly valuable to us was getting to know the people at Vinarija Doja on a personal level. That day, we learned about Goran’s aspiration to stimulate economic growth and create jobs for the people living in his village of birth. We observed the joy in his eyes as he pointed at the places that held memories of his childhood. We saw a small plot of bush vines that he revived for no better reason than nostalgic attachment. We had a glimpse of his vision and his inclusive leadership style.

Often, it seems easier for us wine lovers to fall in love with the romantic ideas of farmers who have their hands in the soil than to connect with a trader who is profit-driven but simultaneously committed to social responsibility. I believe socialism, environmentalism, and capitalism do not have to be mutually exclusive, and there is always a middle ground or sweet spot that we can achieve. Vinarija Doja and the team that Goran has nurtured seemed rightly placed at a vantage point to progress further and in a sustainable manner.

During our visit, we also tasted some new bottlings. I’ve added the tasting notes below.
 

Vinarija Doja Belo 2016

Compared to Vinarija Doja Belo 2015, this shows significantly more high-toned and sweeter aromas. On the palate, the fruit notes are fleshier and more ripe than 2015’s. The mineral backbone and refreshing acidity are as good as the previous year. Overall, the quality level is consistent with 2015, but it’s youthfully edgy right now. I’d give this wine at least a few more months to stretch out.

 

Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2016

Slated for release in early 2018, we tasted this pre-blended. So Matt and I decided to do some blending experiments. He preferred a blend with more Cabernet Sauvignon than Merlot, while I preferred the opposite.

Both wines show good varietal characteristics. The Cabernet Sauvignon has a delineated and pliable structure, with soft and chalky tannins. The Merlot offers sufficient lushness on the palate with a rather pronounced acidic strength and tanginess. There are no rough edges, but I think the final blend can benefit from more cling and more dimensions. It would, in fact, be interesting to move away from the typical Bordeaux style and have a bit of Syrah added for the extra oomph. The Bordeaux-style blends in Serbia tend to be lithe, which allows for early consumption. I would love to see a blend that’s more brooding and intense in character.

The finest selection of

Serbian wines

available at:

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    Do you want to try Serbian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Serbian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

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Matalj Kremen Kamen: A Vertical Tasting
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Disclaimer: The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

The post Vinarija Doja: Serbia’s New Vinous Star appeared first on Wine Travel.

Check out our wine travel guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country. 

Lompoc, California was the first stop of our weeklong tasting trip in Santa Barbara County. Driving down CA-246 on the way to Lompoc, the views of Sta. Rita Hills were stunning. We arrived at sunset, greeted by the incredible sight of golden hills wrapped around old creek beds, horse ranches, and green vineyards. Driving there was a real treat; the motorways were winding two-lane roads that weaved through open brush land, abandoned oil wells, and endless rows of vines.

The Lompoc Wine Ghetto

Walking through blocks and blocks of warehouses to taste world-class wine? Visiting up to five or six wineries in a day without putting the key in the ignition? Welcome to Lompoc, the ghetto for wine nerds.

Lompoc is a small town in the western part of Santa Barbara County. The town is laid out in a grid pattern and the architecture is quaintly dated. It feels as if the inhabitants are completely unaware of the wine scene that is thriving on their doorstep. Finding local wines at the neighborhood supermarkets is difficult and the best place to purchase wine is at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto.

Lompoc Wine Ghetto is several blocks behind Home Depot where CA-1 and CA-246 meet. There are over 20 tasting rooms in the Wine Ghetto, which was founded by Rick Longoria. In 1998, due to financial reasons, Longoria decided to build his winery into a warehouse located at the present-day Wine Ghetto. Other young winemakers followed suit. And from there, the rows of wineries were developed into today’s four-block industrial park on the southeast side of town.

The drab facade belies the interior and the actual tasting experience. Inside the warehouses, the tasting rooms are packed with energy. Decorations are often kept to a minimum; the environment is fun and inviting with a touch of individualistic personality. As a case in point, the tasting room of Palmina looks and feels like a friendly neighborhood bar. A couple of the wineries, including the big names like Brewer-Clifton and Longoria are no longer in the main warehouse part of the Wine Ghetto but a few blocks west of town.

Take your time to walk from tasting room to tasting room and do ask the locals for recommendations. Don’t be afraid to be spontaneous; we chanced upon a number of excellent wines because of sheer coincidence and recommendation. Most facilities here are lean and production volumes are comparatively low. A lot of the wines are limited and with high critic scores to boot. There’s a good chance you will meet a few winemakers here. This is the best place for visitors to have a firsthand look at winemaking and understand the tapestry of experience and innovation happening in Santa Barbara.

In a well established wine region like Santa Barbara, it’s not often that visitors get to meet winemakers or proprietors. So it was refreshing when we met Ariel, the owner & winemaker at La Vie. We spent a good hour together as he shared with us his winemaking philosophy and his preference for screw cap enclosure. La Vie is the first Californian producer to bottle Pinot Noir in Stelvin Screwcap enclosure. Ariel prefers to age his wine in French oak barrel for an extended period before bottling and when the screwcap comes on, the wine would be ready for consumption without immediate need to bottle age further. His current released vintage is 2010.

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In the Lompoc Wine Ghetto, the relatively low cost of wine production by California standards lowers the barriers to entry for young, bootstrapping winemakers. The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is right next to Lompoc so it’s no surprise that most producers here source fruit from that area. However, you can still find wines bearing other AVAs in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. There’s a huge range of wines being made here. Whatever your preference may be, Lompoc can deliver on it. Do you like bubbles? Try Flying Goat Cellars. Looking for elegant Chardonnay? Check out Brewer-Clifton. What about great Pinot Noir? You’re in luck; it’s hard to find an insipid Pinot Noir here.

Tasting room of Brewer-Clifton. Photo Credit: Jeremy Ball of Bottle Branding. We’ve written about Brewer-Clifton in a separate article; the direct link is listed at the bottom of this page.

Please note that most of the tasting rooms are open only on weekends and opening hours are usually from 11AM or 12PM to 4PM or 5PM. Some tasting rooms may be closed without prior notice. If you schedule lunch in the middle of the day, that means you will have to move quickly should you decide to visit more than two or three wineries. The Taste of Sta. Rita Hills is an interesting wine bar in the Wine Ghetto. It offers a wide selection of wines by the glass and these wines are mostly from elusive wineries that either don’t have a tasting room or are hard to make an appointment with.

There are a few budget hotels in town but most people would opt for somewhere else. For food, there are many hole-in-the-wall Mexican eateries throughout the town, including our favorite Floriano’s Mexican Food, which is a few blocks away from the Wine Ghetto. La Botte Italian Restaurant and Scratch Kitchen are two options of a more upscale yet still casual place. Lastly, if you are craving an old-fashioned, greasy spoon café that is widely popular among the locals, be sure to check out American Host. We enjoyed having breakfast there. Overall, the Lompoc Wine Trail was our favorite tasting experience in all of Santa Barbara.

Spending a weekend in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto is an experience that every wine lover should have on their to-do list!

5 Wine Producers to Look Out for in Lompoc

Taste of Sta. Rita Hills is one of our favourite finds at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. Owned and run by Antonio, who’s also the proprietor and winemaker at Moretti Wines, this place houses over 20 labels that are available for tasting! Here’s a shot of Antonio offering us a taste of Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir through a @coravin.

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Bonaccorsi (Available at Taste of Sta. Rita Hills)

After setting up the winery in 1999, former sommelier Michael Bonaccorsi soon passed away in 2004. Bonaccorsi is now run by his wife, Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi, who produces excellent Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. This winery delivers some of the best value-for-money single-vineyard wines in the county. Don’t miss the chance to taste the characteristics of different sites—from the vineyard of Melville to Cargasacchi, and Fiddlestix. The Bonaccorsi Pinot Noirs truly impressed us with their harmonious synchronization of being big, fruity, earthy, and elegant all at the same time.

These wines are for you if: You are particular about the structure and length of your wine or if you like your wine to express complexity, focus, and delicacy.

Photo credit: www.flyinggoatcellars.com

Flying Goat Cellars

Norm Yost and Kate Griffith, the proprietors and husband-and-wife team, produce excellent Pinot Noirs but have made a name for themselves with their sparkling wine line called Goat Bubbles. Goat Bubbles are made in traditional méthode champenoise and the lineup includes a Rosé made from Pinot Noir, a Brut made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a Blanc de Blanc (white wine from white grapes) made from Chardonnay, a Blanc de Noir (white wine made from red grapes) made from Pinot Noir, and a Crémant from Pinot Blanc. The tasting room has a casual and an unhurried feel. Perhaps that’s the effect of sparklers on a tasting room.

These wines are for you if: You love sparkling wine.

Search or buy Flying Goat Cellars wine on Wine Searcher.

Photo Credit: Jeremy Ball of Bottle Branding.

Longoria

In 1998, Rick Longoria became the first producer to have his winery built in an industrial building, which is now affectionately called the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. In 2014, he moved the winery out of the Wine Ghetto and onto the site of Lompoc’s historic JM Club, with the Longoria Winery Tasting Room located in the former clubhouse. Longoria has an extensive portfolio of wines ranging from those made of Chardonnay, to Pinot Noir, Rhône varieties, Spanish varieties, and Bordeaux varieties. Do not miss the chance of tasting the incredibly structured Pinot Noir made with grapes from the estate’s Fe Ciega vineyard. Longoria also produces an Albariño but was sold out when we visited, much to our dismay. There is a chance that you’ll meet Rick Longoria or his wife, Diana Longoria, at the tasting room.

These wines are for you if: You enjoy elegance and subtlety in your wine.

Search or buy Longoria wine on Wine Searcher.

Moretti (Available at Taste of Sta. Rita Hills)

Antonio and Jeni Moretti are the proprietors of Moretti winery and a wine shop called Taste of Sta. Rita Hills, which doubles up as a tasting room for the winery. They produce a handful of wines including varietal whites made from Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, and Chardonnay, and varietal reds made from Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. They also make a Prosecco and a white blend of Arneis, Cortese, and Tocai Friulano. The production is minuscule and sometimes can be as little as 400 cases per year. The biggest highlight for us is their peppery Syrah, which delivers excellent value for money. A visit to their wine shop is a real treat as Antonio and Jeni are passionate about sharing their wine knowledge with the visitors. Also, the shop is essentially a tasting room for the elusive wines of Sta. Rita Hills. The wines of Demetria, Sea Smoke, and Storm are all available by the glass. We recommend that you make this place one of your first stops in order to receive a personal orientation to the wines of Santa Barbara County.

These wines are for you if: You prefer Old World-style, food-friendly wine with earthy nuances.

Palmina and La Voix

Owned by Steve Clifton, one of the original founders of Brewer-Clifton, Palmina focuses on Italian varieties while La Voix includes wines made from French varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. This is one of the larger tasting rooms in the Wine Ghetto. It has an upbeat, fun atmosphere that makes you want to spend a couple of hours here and hang out with the staff or your friends. If you want a taste of Italy, Palmina has it all for you—from Cortese, to Barbera, Malvasia, Sangiovese, Super Tuscan-style wines, and a show-stopping Nebbiolo. For the La Voix line, the bigger-bodied Pinot Noirs stand out the most to us, with a good balance of fruitiness, acidity, and tannin. Both labels use predominantly native yeast and neutral oak barrels. This winery is well-regarded in the wine community and we highly recommend a visit.

These wines are for you if: You enjoy food-friendly wine with bright acidity or bigger-bodied Pinot Noir that expresses the purity of fruit and a touch of earthiness.

Search or buy Palmina wine on Wine Searcher.
Search or buy La Voix wine on Wine Searcher.

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Planning a trip to Santa Barbara?
Want to learn more about Santa Barbara wines?

Our visitor-friendly guide to the wines and tasting rooms of Santa Barbara is available now!
Check out Sipping Santa Barbara: Recommended Wines and Producers for more information.

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You May Also Enjoy

• Santa Barbara Wine Country: Appellations And Region’s Layout
• A Vinous Dream: Wine Tasting in Los Olivos
• Sipping Buellton: Wines and Other Gastronomic Delights
• Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail: Highlights and Tips
• 10 Wines to Try in Santa Barbara County
• Brewer-Clifton: Combining Expertise, Gravitas, and Nature

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Slumming It at the Lompoc Wine Ghetto appeared first on Wine Travel.

Check out our wine travel guide to Santa Barbara Wine Country. 

At 3,729 square miles in size, Santa Barbara County offers unique topography and climatic diversity that give birth to six AVAs (American Viticultural Areas): Ballard Canyon, Happy Canyon, Los Olivos District, Santa Maria Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, and Santa Ynez Valley. The distance between the grape-growing area and the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean is a key factor that shapes the characteristics of each AVA. The western areas are cooler, while the eastern reaches are warmer. The Santa Maria Valley lies to the north and the Santa Ynez Valley is further south. The grapes also show considerable vineyard-to-vineyard variation within each AVA.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are two varieties that are synonymous with Santa Barbara County. However, the county is not all about that. Santa Barbara County is among the world’s most versatile grape-growing regions with a wide array of microclimates. Rhône varieties have taken hold of the land, and the climate in Santa Barbara may be the best place for Syrah in California. The warmer area of Happy Canyon is a proving ground that Bordeaux varieties can flourish in this region. Italian and Spanish varieties such as Cortese, Barbera, Malvasia, Mourvèdre, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo can also be found in Santa Barbara.

In this article, we spotlight 10 excellent examples of non-Chardonnay and non-Pinot Noir wines that are made in Santa Barbara County.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks: 10 Recommended Wines from Santa Barbara

Alma Rosa, Pinot Blanc, La Encantada Vineyard, 2013
Appellation: Sta. Rita Hills
Price: $28
Aged for 9 months in used oak. Filtered but not fined. This has an intensely floral aroma and persistent salinity. Flavors of white peach, honeydew, banana, honeysuckle, and citrus fruit. It has good weight in the mouth, and the acidity rounds up this stunningly nervy wine.

Search or buy on Wine Searcher.

Ampelos, Grenache, Delta, 2012
Appellation: Sta. Rita Hills
Price: $37
Made from the fruit of the Ampelos Vineyard, which is sustainability-in-practice-, organic- and biodynamic- certified. The grapes get extended hang time due to the vineyard location. Fermented with native yeast, the wine spent 33 months in 35% new French and American oak, and then bottled without fining and filtration. The purity of red fruit jumps right out without fanfare but not in an overblown manner. There aren’t layers of complexity to ruminate over but the texture and lingering spicy, earthy notes can win many wine lovers.

Search or buy on Wine Searcher.

Dragonette Cellars, Rosé, 2015
Appellation: Happy Canyon
Price: $25
This is our favorite rosé wine during our recent tasting trip to Santa Barbara. A blend of 80% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, and 2% Syrah. Fermentation is done with native yeast and temperature control. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, and then the wine gets aged on the lees in neutral oak for five months before bottling. The result is a beautifully structured wine with vivacious fruit notes and a lengthy finish of flowers and pepper spice.

Search or buy on Wine Searcher.

Fiddlehead Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc, Hunnysuckle, 2010
Appellation: Happy Canyon
Price: $42
Only 164 cases are produced. Barrel fermented with blocked malolactic fermentation. Aged in new French oak for 10 months on the less and in the bottles for four years before release. This Sauvignon Blanc is rich, loud, and eclectic, yet with enough restraint to appease most wine lovers. White peach, pear, lemon, toast, and a host of savory notes give this wine its unique personality, but it is the mouthfeel that stands out the most—rich and smooth to the point of being custard-like, with the perfect acidity to throw a note of freshness. This is a good interpretation of Bordeaux-styled Sauvignon Blanc and a real treat.

Grassini, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013
Appellation: Happy Canyon
Price: $65
The 2013 Grassini Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. The grapes are 100% estate fruit from the Grassini Family Vineyards. Aged for 22 months in 50% new French oak and 50% seasoned French oak. This wine has all the elements of a great Cabernet Sauvignon. Notes of dark fruit, licorice, pencil shaving, and chocolate caramel fill the palate, followed by chewy tannins that lead the intense flavors down the throat. A boisterous wine that moves gracefully across the mouth and leaves a lasting impression.

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J.Wilkes, Pinot Blanc, 2004
Appellation: Santa Barbara County
Price: Unavailable
At the J.Wilkes tasting room, a small collection of library wines is available for purchase and, sometimes, for tasting. We had the chance to taste a few of the older vintages and this 2004 Pinot Blanc stood out in particular. After all, it is not often that one comes across a Pinot Blanc that is more than 10 years old. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the Bien Nacido Vineyards. The bouquet is mostly driven by a mix of petroleum and chamomile, and the palate flashes out stone fruit and citrus flavors. This wine has definitely put on some weight over the years but remains fresh and easy to drink. While you may not find the same wine in the same vintage, it will be worthwhile to seek out a J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc with a bit of age.

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Kaena, Hapa Blanc, 2014    
Appellation: Santa Ynez Valley
Price: $30
An interesting blend of 60% Roussanne, 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% Riesling. The flavors are as interesting as the blend—notes of petroleum, melon, apple, lemon, mint, and an underlying sweet meatiness. The mouthfeel is round and only slightly oily. It would seem Roussanne might not get along well with Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling but the amalgam is, in fact, a lovely white that’s both savory and refreshing.

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Palmina, Nebbiolo, Santa Barbara County, 2009
Appellation: Santa Barbara County
Price: $40
The Nebbiolo grapes are sourced from four different vineyards in Santa Barbara. Fermentation occurs with native yeast, then the wine is aged for one year in French oak and three years in a big cask. Bottled without filtration. Steve Clifton makes a few different single-vineyard Nebbiolo wines but this entry-level bottling is enough to blow us away. It has everything that we love about a great Nebbiolo—rose, red fruit, tar, licorice, earth, and savory flavors wrapped in a tannic structure and energizing acidity. A powerful Nebbiolo yet it is immediately approachable and inviting. To us, this tastes like something between a Langhe Nebbiolo and a Barolo from La Morra.

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Stolpman, Roussanne, 2014
Appellation: Ballard Canyon
Price: $28
A blend of 88% Roussanne and 12% Chardonnay. Fermented and rested in new 500-liter barrels. Bottled without filtration. This wine shows off the oily, elegant weight of Roussanne and the acidic perkiness of Chardonnay. Modestly aromatic with flavors of sweet cedar, ripe apple, melon, hydrangea, and a mineral backbone. It’s drinking well now but has aging potential.

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Zaca Mesa, Estate Syrah, 2012
Appellation: Santa Ynez Valley
Price: $25
A vibrant bouquet of black fruit, blue fruit, and mocha, brightened by underlying dried flowers. On the palate, it’s tart, juicy and precise, with notes of dark fruit, black pepper, and juniper. The acidic spine and ripe tannins bolster the structure. This estate Syrah is a screaming value.

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Planning a trip to Santa Barbara?
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Check out Sipping Santa Barbara: Recommended Wines and Producers for more information.

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Featured photo courtesy of Fiddlehead Cellars.
Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post 10 Wines to Try in Santa Barbara County appeared first on Wine Travel.

Jo Ahearne is an academically trained winemaker and a Master of Wine. She is currently producing Croatian wine under her namesake winery on the island of Hvar in South Dalmatia. In this interview, she sheds some light on the Croatian wine industry and what it’s like to make wine in Croatia.

You can find Jo Ahearne wines at wineandmore.com

JO AHEARNE, AN EDUCATED GUEST

• Jo, thank you for taking the time to do this interview. Let’s start off by getting to know you, as a wine lover, a little better. Do you have an epiphany wine?

Wine wasn’t a huge part of my life growing up. We [my family] did have wine occasionally, but it was only as I got a bit older, also when wine became more accessible in the UK with supermarkets selling it, that it was more of a thing. I suppose my ‘come to Jesus’ moment was during a holiday in France with my parents, sister, aunt, uncle, and my cousins. My dad and uncle decided to treat themselves to a half-bottle of Pommard, but since they were surrounded by seven women who were having none of that ‘not sharing’ lark, we all ended up with a sip each!

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“It [Plavac Mali] is a grape that you can get that Nebbiolo-esque perfume and refined tannin backbone, but make it another way and it will have the burly Amarone or Barossa Valley richness.”

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• A Pommard sounds like a fine way to start the journey. How has your preference in wine evolved over time?

I think in wine, like in many areas in life, there can sometimes be an obsession with the ‘next new thing’, and we can forget what made us love something in the first place. But I do think your palate is your palate. I’m a bit of an acid freak with white wines, and I don’t think that has changed. But with red, I was more of a Bordeaux girl to start, and that has definitely changed.

I remember the first ‘serious’ bottle of Australian wine I bought when I started working at Oddbins: it was a Charles Melton’s Shiraz. It cost £8; but considering I was earning £2.50 an hour, it was a huge purchase for me. The ripeness of the fruit and the seductive tannins were a revelation for me. The weird thing was that years later, Charlie gave me my first vintage job, which started me on the path to becoming a winemaker. 10 years in Australia made my palate more New Worldy.

Coming back to Europe, I worked a lot in Italy and enjoyed bolder southern reds but really fell in love with Piedmont and Nebbiolo; I started to ignore those lovely bold Australian flavors. This was what made me want to make Plavac Mali. It is a grape that you can get that Nebbiolo-esque perfume and refined tannin backbone, but make it another way and it will have the burly Amarone or Barossa Valley richness. So I’ve started to embrace the richness once more.

• What makes Hvar so special?

Ah! I could go on forever. When I decided that I’d make my own wine in Croatia, I looked at what was considered the ‘grand cru’ sites, and the south side of Hvar was one of them. In a country that is ridiculously beautiful, Hvar is even more beautiful. When I travel to another region, I think about how lovely it is, and then I come back ‘home’ and realize that Hvar is on another level.

A view of Hvar, Croatia. © August Dominus, CC BY-SA 4.0

• We agree. Hvar is a stunning-looking place with great food, great wine, and fantastic people. What are the challenges of being a foreigner making wine in Croatia?

I think they are the same challenges that you would have anywhere else. As a Londoner, I am always going to be an outsider making wine in Croatia. The Croatian language is hard, but so many people speak great English here. The main challenge is probably just finding out who sells what, like the capsules, bottles, and corks. I still can’t find someone who is able to print the cartons I want for my wine. I know it sounds daft, but I can’t find a likable bottle that is the same for the standard, magnum, and jeroboam formats. Another challenge is finding growers who understand yield and quality. I tend to let the vineyards do the quality control for me; good sites can control the excess vegetation and excess yield naturally.

• Tell us about the Dalmatian grape varieties, especially the ones you work with.

I started with Plavac Mali, which is related to Zinfandel (known in Croatia as Crljenak Kaštelanski and Tribidrag) and has that same part-raisin flavor profile. This comes not from a desire for extended ‘hang time’ but because it ripens unevenly. So a proportion of the fruit has to be raisined for the rest of the berries to have a chance at ripening. Vineyard selection is paramount because there are some places, even on the south side of Hvar, where the tannins never get ripe and the acidity is too low and pH too high. However, if you get it right, Plavac Mali can produce such fine tannins that imbue even the biggest wine with elegance.

Then I found the Darnekuša for my rosé, which is the opposite of Plavac Mali. It never ripens to more than about 11.5% potential alcohol and has very little color. But it has concentration, structure, and fantastic acidity.

I found some great Pošip this vintage. I think it’s akin to Pinot Bianco with a twist of Viognier. And then I work with Bogdanuša and Kuć as well, which can be quite neutral.

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“Wine production isn’t cheap here, so the prices of Croatian wine come as a surprise to a lot of people. When I tell my friends in Spain how much Plavac Mali and Darnekuša cost, they get a heart attack.”

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A vineyard on the island of Hvar.

• We’re big fans of both your Plavac Mali and Darnekuša. Please share with us more about your wines.

I choose the Plavac Mali based on vineyards and scientific analyses. The fruit has to have concentration and freshness to start. Then if the tannins are ripe and the pH is low enough, I will buy the fruit. I have a cutoff point of pH 3.7 in the vineyard, and many of the parcels I buy have much lower pH than that. I’ve seen fruit that has another month till it’s ripe and already at pH 3.8. Making wine from grapes with a pH over four is not fun.

For Pošip, I pick at three different sugar levels to get the flavors of lime and lemon, then peach and melon, and finally tropical guava and pineapple.

For Bogdanuša and Kuć, I ferment them on skins to get more flavors from these neutral varieties and also some refreshing phenolics. It’s mostly about texture for me; so for the whites, I do a lot of bâttonage. I spend hours removing stalks and seeds from the red wines to get rid of green tannins. Everything is fermented in open-tops. Pushing the cap down is done by hand for gentle extraction and to make sure the wine is getting enough oxygen.

Jo Ahearne Rosina, a rosé made from Croatia’s indigenous variety called Darnekuša.

• Are there any Croatian wines that have really caught your eye?

The wine that inspired me to make my own Plavac Mali was Miloš Stagnum, with its perfume and refined tannic tension. The Tomić Caplar is a perfect combination of international and indigenous varieties. I adore La Sin, the Lasina from Bibich, which is known as the ‘Dalmatian Pinot Noir’ because of its amazing silky texture. Vina Cattunar from Istria is doing some interesting things with soil types; its Malvazija, which I tasted at the Vinart Grand Tasting in Zagreb, had this amazing white pepper spice and fabulous texture. There are some great Sauvignon Blancs coming out of Slavonia. But to be honest, I need to spend a few months traveling around and visiting more wineries.

• What are the cultural obstacles you face in Dalmatia?

No more than in any other places where you are an outsider. The Dalmatians are famous for being quite stubborn, but so can I!

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“The notion that Eastern Europe equals cheap wine is a hard one to work against.”

——————————————

• Is Croatian wine ready for the international stage? What are the obstacles that the Croatian wine industry might face moving forward?

There is a thirst – excuse the pun – for exploring different regions and grape varieties, and that’s more widespread than just among us wine geeks. Five years ago, people were less adventurous. This plays nicely into the hands of the Croatian wine industry with its wealth of indigenous varieties.

Wine production isn’t cheap here, so the prices of Croatian wine come as a surprise to a lot of people. When I tell my friends in Spain how much Plavac Mali and Darnekuša cost, they get a heart attack. The notion that Eastern Europe equals cheap wine is a hard one to work against. There are no large vineyard holdings to make ‘entry point’ wine; with the demise of the co-operative system, there isn’t the focus on that end of the market as you’d find in France, Spain, and Italy.

For me, one of the biggest obstacles is that the majority of tourists who visit Croatia sample wine in konobas. The quality of the wine in those places is varied, to say the least. It is also totally unregulated. When I first visited Croatia in 2003, I stopped drinking wine after the second day.

I now know that the wine I was drinking in the local restaurants was made from the owner’s or family’s grapes and in the garage. Economically, I understand why they would encourage you to drink their ‘homemade’ wine. I thought the use of that word was a quaint translation, but it’s quite literal. If you are selling this wine for 80 Kuna (~USD 11.50) a liter with no costs accumulated from bottling, label, cork, or carton, that is the equivalent to an ex-cellar price for some Premier Cru Chablis or even Brunello.

Often, this wine is kept in a hot place, and it gets oxidized, volatile, mousey, and sometimes all three at once! Sometimes it’s nice, but other times, the tourists think this is what Croatian wine is all about. And they will go back home and never ask their local wine shops for Croatian wine because, based on their experiences, Croatian wine is okay at best.

We need to work on getting the tourists to take home the message that Croatian wine is great, and also spend time in export markets pouring wines and talking to potential customers. The lack of a ‘Wines of Croatia’ association holds the country back. For example, each year at Prowein, there is a large stand full of Macedonian wine. The wineries do not pay the huge cost of that stand on their own, as they have government support. There is a stand for Slovenia, Greece, Moldova, Bulgaria, but Croatia is absent and therefore absent from the minds of the international buyers who are searching for new things.

Thank you so much for your insights, Jo. We look forward to enjoying more Ahearne Vino!

The finest selection of

Croatian wines

available at:

Shipping is available EU-wide and to the UK.

Check out Croatian Wines Available in the USA.

************

    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

************

Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

You May Also Enjoy

• 10 Plavac Mali Wines To Try (Besides Dingač And Postup)
• Nenad Trifunović: Connecting Taste with Heart
• Understanding Croatian Wine with Cliff Rames

Varietal wines made from the native grapes of Hvar island, Croatia:

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Trendsetter: Jo Ahearne MW, Winemaker appeared first on Wine Travel.

[Last updated: January 21, 2018]

The Plešivica wine region is about a 30-minute drive southwest of Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia. This wine region is near the border of Slovenia and experiences a continental climate. With a long history of winemaking, Plešivica plays host to over 30 family-run wineries and is regarded as the best area in Croatia for making sparkling wine and Pinot Noir. The vineyards lie on hills between 200 and 400 meters in elevation. For better or worse, international travelers tend to overlook this wine region as they head down the highway from Zagreb to the azure coast, missing a major tenet of the Croatian wine scene.

Tomac Winery in Plešivica

One of the leading producers in the region is Tomac, a small-production winery operated by Tomislav Tomac, his wife, and his father. Widely regarded as the most refined sparkling wine producer in Croatia, Tomac owns seven hectares of vineyards on the slopes of Plešivica hills.

Currently, the sparkling wines account for over 70 percent of Tomac’s wine production. The other 30 percent consists of still whites and one Pinot Noir bottling. All the Tomac sparkling wines are made in méthode traditionelle. For the sparklers, besides using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Tomislav challenges the boundary by vinifying a range of indigenous varieties that have previously never been used for making commercial wine.

Amphorae at Tomac Winery

This clever packaging design reflects the three lines of Tomac wine: sparkling, amphora, and standard dry wine.

Tomac is one of the three Croatian producers that are using amphorae to make wine. All Tomac wines are fermented and aged in either amphorae or neutral oak casks between the size of 2,000 and 3,000 liters. Fermentation is done using wild yeasts with the exception of sparkling wines, which rely on commercial yeasts to start the second fermentation in the bottle.

A stalwart of the minimal-intervention philosophy, it is perhaps no surprise that Tomac—specifically Tomislav’s father—was inspired by Friulian producer Josko Gravner, and that’s how the story of Tomac Amfora line began. Gravner is a pioneer of Friulian amber wine and notable for being the one who popularized qvevri (Georgian buried terracotta vessels).

There are six buried vessels outside the Tomac winery (see video above). The vessels are imported from Georgia, and their insides are lined with beeswax. Tomislav cleans the vessels by hand at the end of every season.

Visiting Tomac Winery

Charine and Matt clowning around with Tomislav Tomac and his wife, Martina. On the far right is Croatian wine blogger, Nenad Trifunović.

We drove to the Tomac Winery on a foggy December evening with our Croatian friends, Vedran Jakovac and Nenad Trifunović. Vedran is a wine enthusiast and Nenad runs a wine blog called Vinopija. Both of them are vocal advocates for Tomac. So, would the Tomac wines live up to the hype?

Tasting Tomac Wines

Indeed, Tomac is worth all the compliments. The entire portfolio is impressive, with a few outstanding examples. Beyond just the organoleptic merits, we are also drawn to Tomislav’s winemaking philosophy. He understands that the qvevri is not just another tool, like a stainless steel tank or oak barrel, but a symbol of a belief system that champions a back-to-basics approach. Tomislav is dedicated to this school of thought, and his respect for nature shows in his wines.

Tomac wines are available at Wine&more | Shop Here

SPARKLING WINE

• Tomac Millennium Brut NV – 70% Plavec Žuti and 30% Chardonnay

The Tomac Millennium is aged for at least six months on the lees before disgorgement, leaving behind a fresh white bread aroma in the wine while letting the primary fruit characteristics take center stage. This wine has an excellent acid-sugar balance with a generous fruit attack on the palate that goes into a lemon-accented and slightly floral finish. A perfect party starter.

• Tomac Diplomat Extra Brut NV – 80% Chardonnay and 20% Plavac Žuti

The Tomac Diplomat Extra Brut NV shows bright aromas of stone fruits and only a touch of yeastiness on the nose. The lively acidity and fine bubbles guide the flavors across the palate into a lemon-accented finish. A refreshing sparkler for those who prefer minimal bready aroma and a creamy but still fruity taste. The Tomac Diplomat Extra Brut usually contains around three to four grams of residual sugar and seven to eight grams of total acidity and matured on the lees for about four years.

• Tomac Rosé Brut NV – 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay

The Tomac Rosé is matured on the lees for at least two years. The aroma of red fruit is illuminated by a touch of yeastiness. On the palate, the wine leads you in with intense raspberry and strawberry flavors. The acidity adds firmness and focus to the wine, leading the flavors to a grapefruit-accented and slightly floral end. This rosé makes us crave a scampi ceviche.

• Tomac Pjenušac Amfora Brut 2010 – 50% Chardonnay and 50% Plešivica’s varieties

(Tasted in December 2016) Fermented and macerated in the terracotta vessels for six months and then put into 2000-liter oak casks for about 18 months before second fermentation in the bottle. The Tomac Pjenušac Amfora Brut 2010 brings quite a transformative experience. Flavors of brioche, pumpkin, marmalade, lemon rind, orange peel, dried apricot, dried leaf, and macadamia nut. There are many layers in this wine and the many dimensions are harmonized by vivid acidity and a firm structure that throws a little tug of tannins on the end-palate. A full-bodied sparkler with intense flavors that can take you through several courses of a meal.

Allegedly, Tomac is the first in the world to make an amphora-fermented, méthode-traditionelle sparkling wine. The Tomac Pjenušac Amfora is said to have inspired several famous grower champagne makers who have also started using clay vessels in Champagne. Another commendable achievement is that the Tomac Pjenušac Amfora Brut 2010 is on the list of Decanter’s “75 Stellar Buys of 2016”.

(Retasted multiple times in 2017) This amber sparkler is gaining strength in the bouquet and a somewhat syrupy smell. The next vintage of this wine will be 2016. Tomislav said 2016 is one of the best years for Tomac’s sparkling wines.

WHITE WINE

• Tomac Chardonnay 2015 – 100% Chardonnay

A pleasant and crisp Chardonnay. Notes of stone fruit, melon, citrus, and flint with a round and soft mouthfeel. The stone fruit flavor becomes more pronounced after some aeration. The finish is relatively long. The Tomac Chardonnay 2015 would go great with creamy mushroom bruschetta.

• Tomac Rajnski Rizling 2015 – 100% Riesling

The Tomac Rajnski Rizling 2015 opens with a full personality on the nose with an alluring musky, vanilla perfume character. On the palate, white peach, green apple, lime, grass, petrol, rose, and chestnut flavors are held together by tingling acidity. A lovely Rizling but perhaps lacking the mineral characteristic that great Rieslings possess.

• Tomac Rajnski Rizling 2016 – 100% Riesling

Just bottled so the wine still isn’t fully in its element yet. About five grams of residual sugar and eight grams of total acidity. No malolactic fermentation.  Love the tension in the mouth and an interesting hint of tea tree oil aroma.

• Tomac Sauvignon 2015 – 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Notes of musky perfume, baked apple, nectarine, frangipani, and flint on a medium-bodied frame and commendable texture. The acidity is quite juicy here, and the palate finishes with a savory, chestnut note. There is a lovely sense of radiance in the Tomac Sauvignon 2015.

• Tomac Sauvignon 2016 – 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Just bottled and the wine is undergoing shock. The acidity is firm in this one. It has an inviting botanical aroma and white-fleshed fruit flavor.

SKIN-CONTACT WINE

• Tomac Amfora 2008 – 50% Chardonnay and 50% Plešivica’s varieties

(Tasted in December 2016) Flavors of white pepper, raspberry, dried apricot, salty caramel, sweet chestnut, earth, and mint. This is relatively light-bodied and has high acidity—a rather rare profile among amber wines. Delicious with a long finish of tobacco and cedar notes, supported by green tea-like tannins. The Tomac Amfora 2008 has captured the umami sense in a bottle. It has the intensity and crispness to be paired with spicy dishes and red meat.

(Retasted multiple times in 2017) Only 23 bottles left in the cellar. This wine has grown significantly since we last tasted it, which was just a few months ago. The bouquet is nuttier. The flavors are a lot more intense on the palate. The structure is nothing short of incredible. It’s interesting that the oak’s toastiness can still be found on the end-palate. This is one of the finest Croatian wines.

• Tomac Amfora 2006 – A blend of several Plešivica’s varieties 

(Tasted in December 2016) An experimental sparkling amber wine that isn’t and will not be released on the market. Zero dosage and zero added sulfur. The acidity appears weak here, and the freshness is masked by some wild and rustic flavors: dried apricot, fall leaf, rubber, petrol, bourbon, and raisin.

While the oxidative characteristics are pronounced, the good thing is that there’s still a sense of fresh red fruit flavor lingering. The flavors glide across the palate harmoniously—which is not something we’d expect based on the bouquet—and finish with a twist of almond and black tea characteristics. This is a crazy and yummy wine.

(Tasted in December 2017) After 10 years on the lees, the Tomac Amfora 2006 is tasting significantly more bready than the other Tomac’s sparkling wines. Combine that with the oxidative flavors, this is a really quirky wine. The aromas of toffee candy and boletus mushroom dominate the nose and belie the taste. On the palate, notes of orange, lemon, and baked apple hit the mid-palate, and the finish offers a spicy swing. Interesting but can be a bit rough on the edges for some people.

• Tomac Rajnski Rizling Amfora 2011 – 100% Riesling

(Tasted in December 2016) The Tomac Rajnski Rizling Amfora 2011 was macerated in terracotta vessels and then put into large oak casks to age. This has the bouquet that can fool people into believing that it’s a red wine. The flavors are of honey, dried apricot, red fruit, and mint. The flavors are executed perfectly in a cuneate expression on the palate and perked up by high acidity. The finish comes with citrusy freshness and gentle tannins. This will make a good introduction to amber wine for those who are new to skin-contact style.

(Retasted multiple times in 2017) The bouquet has gained more savory notes over time. On the palate, it’s gained some saline and spicy clove perspectives. The finish remains persistent with citrusy freshness.

RED WINE

• Tomac Crni Pinot 2015 – 100% Pinot Noir

(Tasted in December 2016) This is fermented and macerated in buried amphorae for three to four weeks, then pressed and stored in oak casks for maturation. A light and gentle Pinot Noir with flavors of raspberry, red cherry, and freshly cut grass, plus a hint of earth. The wine finishes with young, fine-grained tannins. It sets a good impression and will be better with more time in the bottle. Tomac is one of the three Pinot Noir producers in Croatia that we would drink from without hesitation.

(Retasted in December 2017) By now, the Tomac Crni Pinot 2015 has gained power in its flavor attack. All things are balanced and lifted by good acidity. Compared to 2013, which we tasted a few months ago, 2015 is less supple and less firmly structured. Still, this is a nice Pinot Noir without complication and will show its peak drinkability after medium-term aging.

Tomac wines are available at wineandmore.com 

What’s Next

Tomac will be cultivating an additional 1.3 hectares of vineyards, making them the second largest vineyard holder in the region, after Podrum Mladina (owned by Croatia’s leading retail and food & beverage company, Agrokor). The annual production will be between 50,000 and 60,000 bottles. When asked about his next goal, Tomislav Tomac said, “One day, I hope I can do the second fermentation [of sparkling wine in the bottle] with native yeasts.”

The finest selection of

Croatian wines

available at:

Shipping is available EU-wide and to the UK.

Check out Croatian Wines Available in the USA.

************

    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

************

Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

You May Also Enjoy:
Amber Revolution by Simon Woolf
15 Amber Wines (Orange Wines) to Try in Croatia
Can You Tell a Burgundy from a Croatian Pinot Noir?

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Tomac Winery: Leading the Charge in Croatia appeared first on Wine Travel.

Six months after our first trip through Croatia, we were back in the country. This time, we attended the Zagreb VINOcom—the largest Croatian wine show held annually at the end of November, at the Esplanade Hotel in downtown Zagreb. Over 200 Croatian wine producers were present, along with many culinary stalls featuring cured meats, smoked fish, and other local food specialties. The conference was a great opportunity to taste the Croatian wines that we missed on our first foray into the country.

There are around 1,600 registered commercial producers in Croatia—mostly made up of small family wineries spread throughout the country. As such, it can be difficult to procure certain wines. Outside the capital city Zagreb, the few wine shops scattered throughout the country offer predominantly regional wines. If you are at a wine shop in southern Dalmatia, don’t expect to find Istrian wine. Domestic consumption is high; Croatians drink over 44 liters of wine per person per year. At this rate, it can be difficult for the local producers to keep up with the locals as well as the 10 million annual tourists they receive. Great Croatian wines get scooped up quickly.

Thankfully, the wines that we really wanted to try were all present at the event. Here are some highlights of Zagreb VINOcom.

Quest for Babić Solved

Plavac Mali is the star among the red varieties of the Dalmatian coast, but Babić has the potential to make excellent wine. There is not a large amount of Babić available, and only a handful of producers are making wine from it. Good examples of Babić are produced by Vinoplod, Piližota, Birin, Zlatan Otok, and Gracin.

The most esteemed producer of Babić is Dr Leo Gracin. Our previous attempt at tasting Dr Leo’s wines was futile. In May, while driving down the Dalmatian coast, we made a special trip to the premier Babić vineyard known as Bucavac (Booh-sah-vahts). You can take a look at the Bucavac vineyard in the short video below; be warned that Matt completely butchers the name of the vineyard…

We stopped by Gracin Winery in Šibenik after seeing the Bucavac vineyard. After a two-hour wait at the door of the winery, no one answered. Counting it as a loss, we moved on and accepted defeat. It really bothered us that we didn’t get a chance to taste the wine.

At the Zagreb VINOcom, we were thrilled to see the Gracin Babić available for tasting. After sampling the wine, we walked away thoroughly impressed.

• Gracin Babić 2013

Find Gracin wines at wineandmore.com 

This wine has good integration of oak and fruit. The flavors are dominated by notes of rubber, sweet cherry, forest berry, and dried plum. The palate has a nice texture and earthy undertone. Fans of rustic Central Italian wines will love this. We think that the Gracin Babić can fool people into believing that it’s a Chianti Classico Riserva. The wine shares similar wild flavors that Plavac Mali gives, but it has much softer tannins than Plavac Mali. This is an excellent wine and worth the hype.

Grk, Grk, Grk!

Grk is a mysterious, rare grape originating from a small village on the island of Korčula. There are only a handful of producers making wine from Grk. The wines sell out quickly; producers can run out of stock by the beginning of August each year.

As a varietal wine, Grk tastes like Loire’s Muscadet but with a fuller body and tropical fruit flavors that Chardonnay can give. All of this is wrapped in a mineral-rich mouthfeel. It is a completely unique white wine.

The variety recently received some international hype last summer: Bono, the lead singer of the band U2, posted an Instagram photo of himself enjoying Croatian white wine; allegedly, he was enjoying a glass of Grk.

We are fans of the rich, fuller bodied, and mineral-driven Grk from Bire Winery. Frano Bire is the owner and his name is synonymous with Grk. Bire was at the show so we were able to re-taste his Grk, which—as always—didn’t disappoint. We also got a chance to try Grk from a different producer that impressed us.

• Zure Grk Bartul 2015 

An elegant and complex wine with notes of white flower, sand, and rock at first. There are layers of pineapple, peach and fruity freshness underneath the earthiness, but you really have to search for it. This is more of a thinking white wine. There is a lot going on here. 

Zure Grk Bartul | €25.99 |  Shop Here

Croatian Cult Wine

If there is a grape that defines Croatian reds, it is Plavac Mali. The definitive location for Plavac Mali is the area of Dingač. If there is a legendary wine from Dingač, it is Bura.

Croatians are very proud of Plavac Mali, which is the offspring of two local grapes, Crljenak Kaštalenski (also called Tribidrag and commonly known as Zinfandel) and Dobričić. This variety makes wines that are dense, tannic, and high in alcohol. We have tasted some great wines made from Plavac Mali, as well as some appalling ones. The most known Plavac Mali appellation is Dingač, which boasts some of the most impressive vineyard sites that we’ve seen.

In the spring of 2016, we made our way through South Dalmatia and met with many different Plavac Mali producers. We got a chance to taste the wines of many iconic Plavac Mali producers, but Bura eluded us. Bura produces just over 2,000 bottles of Dingač per year, and the wines are extremely difficult to get. The wines are made with minimal intervention and according to what the soil and climate offer in the year. In some years, Bura can be an off-dry wine and in others completely dry—as we were informed by renowned Croatian wine critic, Saša Špiranec.

• Bura Dingač 2014 

Find Bura-Mrgudić wines at wineandmore.com

Would this wine live up to the hype? It did and more so. This may be the finest Croatian wine we’ve tasted. The Bura Dingač is a fantastic interpretation of Plavac Mali with an inviting nose of floral perfume, bubblegum, and cherry. The palate is evolved and rich with predominantly cherry flavor. There is a spike of flavor intensity and acidity before the end-palate. The wine is tannic but countered by intense flavor and nice acidity. This is a masterpiece. Now if only it was easier to get your hands on it.

Jo Ahearne

We heard so many stories about a Master of Wine producing her own wine on the island of Hvar in Dalmatia. The island of Hvar is beautiful and has a long history of winemaking. Hvar is an easy place for someone to fall in love with, especially a Master of Wine. There are already a number of solid producers on Hvar including Zlatan Otok, Duboković and Tomić.

We did not get a chance to try Jo Ahearne‘s wines during our previous stop in Hvar and were glad that both Jo and her wines were present at the show. We got a first-hand account of how she fell in love with Hvar and her winemaking journey. We also tasted her rosé made from the grape Darnekuša, which is indigenous to Hvar. She also makes a beautiful Plavac Mali that has not been released yet. Both of these wines show a lot of promise.

• Ahearne Rosina Rosé 2015

Find Ahearne wines at wineandmore.com

This is an interesting rosé made from the local variety Darnekuša. It has an intense cherry flavor as opposed to strawberry or strawberry cream that you normally find in most fresh rosé wines. A bolder and more serious rosé; this is meant to be more than just a summer quaffer.  It is textured in the mouth and balanced without any residual sugar.

• Ahearne Plavac Mali 2014

Find Ahearne wines at Wine&more.

An impressive Plavac Mali with smooth flavors. The wine manages to keep the wild characteristics of Plavac Mali while appealing to international palates. It is a very perfumed wine, with cherry and earth flavors and a touch of barnyard. This is an elegant Plavac Mali. The tannins are smooth, which makes it drinkable even if it is still young. 

The Grand Cro Room

The Grand Cro is an association of premium wine estates in Croatia. The current members are Bibich, Meneghetti, Dubokovic, Saints Hills, Boškinac, and Baković. All of these wine estates are in the coastal region, either Dalmatia or Istria. During our last trip in May, we got a chance to visit and/or taste wines from all of these producers except Baković.

At Zagreb VINOcom, there was a special room dedicated to just these estates. On the second day of the show, all six wineries opened large format bottles of their archive wines. The room was crowded and the thirsty lines were long but we managed to get a taste from each estate. All of the wines were excellent but two wines stood out.

Boškinac owner and winemaker Boris Šuljić pouring a double-magnum bottle of his Red Cuvée.

• Boškinac 2007 

Find Boškinac wines at wineandmore.com

The first time we heard about Boškinac winery was on an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. In the episode, a top Croatian chef claimed that the Boškinac Red Cuvée is considered to be Croatia’s top red wine. On our previous journey, we purchased and tasted a 2012 vintage. While that vintage made for a very good drinking experience, the 2007 is something special.

This is a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged two years in French and American oak. Amazing flavors of pencil lead, dried plum, dried cherry, and earth. The wine is rich and medium bodied with a long end palate and tangy acidity.

• Baković Plavac Murvica 2006 

We were very happy with the Baković 2015 Pošip but it was his top red that impressed us the most.

Baković is the newest member to the Grand Cro. This wine is made of Plavac Mali with a little Syrah, and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon added to it. A great wine with flavors of sour cherry, flower, herb, earth, and spice. The wine still has a lot of life ahead of it as the fruit, acidity, and fine-grained tannins are all still there and accounted for. This is drinking very well but will get even better with age.

Slovenian Winery: Verus

In the corner of one room was a humble display of wines from Slovenia, all sporting screw-cap enclosures. We were drawn in by the kind-looking man pouring the wines. All of the wines showed great purity of fruit and real tension on the palate.

Verus winery is fairly new but has already drawn high praise from famous wine writers like Oz Clarke, Jancis Robinson and Steven Spurrier, and also Decanter Magazine. We tasted their Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. All the wines were well made and excellent, but one stood out above the rest.

• Verus Šipon 2016 

Made from 100% Furmint which is known as Šipon in Slovenia. This wine is full of oil, gas, smoke, with tart Asian pear flavors. It is extremely rich in the mouth. We love this full-bodied white wine.

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Credit: Featured image at the top of the article is taken from the Zagreb VINOcom Facebook page.

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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While the history of winemaking in Armenia dates back to ancient time, its modern wine industry is still in its infancy stage. As of now, the two head honchos are the critically acclaimed  Zorah Winery and the goliath-sized Karas Winery, which has Michel Rolland as a lead consultant. The rest of the fledgling industry is made up by around 25 commercial wineries, which are constantly improving and are worthy of attention.

In October 2016, we returned to Armenia for a month to gauge how the wineries have been evolving and were delighted to discover a new personage in the fine wine scene.

Voskevaz Winery is named after a village of the same name. It is located on the slopes of 4090-meter-tall Mount Aragats, the highest mountain in the Lesser Caucasus Range. The winery was established in 1932 and was making predominantly Sherry-type wine for the Soviet Union. For a number of years between then and now, the winery fell out of fashion and then bounced back to produce simple table wine and semi-sweet wine for Russia. The wines of Voskevaz were not available in the local market when we visited Armenia in the fall of 2015–as we were tasting and researching for our book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines From Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia. As of 2016, Voskevaz is rebalancing its focus and putting considerable effort into creating a presence in its domestic market in Armenia. Simultaneously, recent investments have modernized the winery and have given the property an integral facelift.

The head winemaker Alexey Sapsay has spent time in France, Italy, and Spain. His last stint was in the much-heralded Spanish wine region of Priorat. Alexey said that, besides the new focus on the Armenian domestic market, Voskevaz will also be shifting towards making high-quality wines. The harbinger of this shift is its Karasi Collection. The first batch of this premium line is made up of around 3,000 bottles; the winery aims to increase the production to 60,000 bottles, which will include varietal wines made from indigenous Armenian grapes Areni, Voskehat, and the rare Haghtanak.

The winery is less than a half-an-hour drive from the capital city Yerevan. The modern facilities–which includes a restaurant and guest house–are not finished but the new stone buildings are already covered in hand-carved decorations. The winery has the charm of new medieval-inspired architecture coupled with old Soviet buildings. As the village of Voskevaz is a tiny and lesser-developed area, there are high hopes that the finished one-stop compound of Voskevaz will bring much-needed jobs and economic growth to the village.

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL’S PICKS

•  Voskevaz Rosé 2014 – 100% Areni

Salmon in color. The aromas are muted with a hint of strawberry and mineral. In the mouth, the flavors are packed with characteristics of melon, strawberry, earth, spice, and flower. A shy yet charismatic rosé.

• Voskevaz Areni 2013

Inviting aromas of cherry-coated sweetness, brown spice, smoke, and a slight earthiness. The palate is loaded with tastes of sour cherry, red kool-aid, and smoke. The end-plate is noticeably grassy. With all these characteristics packed in a glass, this is one of the few Areni wines that bear a strong resemblance to a Californian Pinot Noir, yet distinctly different because of its smoothness, earthiness, and spice. A fantastic food wine.

• Voskevaz Karasi Collection Voskehat 2015 – 100% Voskehat

The first vintage of its kind with only less than 3,000 bottles released, this premium line of Voskehat wine is crafted with grapes from 60-year-old vines. Made with whole-cluster pressing, fermentation in the karas (clay vessels) with 1% skin contact, and four-month aging in the barrel, the delicateness and depth jump right out in the first contact. On the nose, it delivers a long chain of subtle aromas like tropical fruit, ripe melon, star fruit, plywood, butter, and spice. On the palate, it shows signs of tart Asian pear, starfruit, pineapple, and wet stone. The texture is light, smooth, and buttery. Overall, we find this wine to be an absolute stunner that reminds us of some Burgundy white. Despite its relatively high retail price in Armenia, we think it’s worth every cent and serves as an exemplar of what the variety Voskehat can achieve.

• Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir 2014 – 100% Areni

Just like the Karasi Collection Voskehat, this is the first vintage of its kind, made in a single karas that yielded only 800 bottles. This wine is made from the indigenous grape called Areni. The grapes are harvested from 120 year-old vines that are planted at 1,600 meters in elevation. Fermentation and maceration happened in karas and then the wine was transferred to age for 14 months in new Armenian oak sourced from nearby Nagorno-Karabakh. The nose is an immediate showstopper–with characteristics of freshly cut grass, strawberry, red cherry, caramel, chocolate, and a touch of tobacco. The taste is dominated by red fruit and rubber, led by a tight tannic backbone. On the end palate, it swings harmoniously into a still fruit-driven, but also slightly spicy and slightly green finale. This has won a gold medal winner from Mundus Vini 2016 and is one of our top picks for Armenian red wines. However, more joy can be achieved in this wine if the body was bigger. 

For a listing of articles and videos on Armenian wines and wine travel in Armenia, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of the book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to this Amazon product page.

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A Brief History of Wines from the Caucasus
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The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

The post Voskevaz: A New Face in the Armenian Wine Scene appeared first on Wine Travel.

For a listing of articles and videos on Georgian wines and wine travel in Georgia, check out our page Uncorking the Caucasus. To purchase the Kindle or paperback copy of the book Uncorking the Caucasus: Wines from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia, please head to this Amazon product page.

We were strolling in the cool, rainy fall night in downtown Tbilisi. After exiting the metro and walking past Liberty Square, we turned the corner down an old street. In the middle of the unlit street, there was a door and a standing blackboard. Those two items didn’t fit in with the environment but signaled the entrance to a non-smoking (rare in Georgia) basement restaurant.

We had an appointment with John Wurdeman, owner of the restaurant Azarphesha and the winery Pheasant’s Tears. It started out as one of those nights we have seen so often in the last year–the winemakers sit down and share their stories; we drink some of their wines; and new relationships between people, places, and wines are formed. This night was orchestrated slightly differently–perhaps with a poetic and philosophical slant–by dint of John’s innate qualities; he’s a charming storyteller and a prolific artist of many forms.

The night commenced with just John and us. Over the course of the evening, John’s business partner came, then the wife of the business partner, and then one of John’s friends. The restaurant started to fill up and John and his gang began to perform the famed Georgian polyphonic singing. Next, the guitar came out, then more wine, and then the drinking horns.

Called “Kantsi” in Georgian,  the drinking horn is a vessel typically made from an animal horn. Once it is filled, one cannot put it down until the content is emptied–preferably done in one continuous series of gulps. When done drinking, the holder turns the horn upside down and proves to everyone that the content has been emptied out. 

By the end of the night, eight hours of delicious natural wines and memorable Georgian dishes were in the books. What was fascinating was that we didn’t drink solely wines by Pheasant’s Tears; John chose to showcase natural wines by several different producers whom he believed are doing great things in Georgia. We even ended the night with a wonderful bottle from an Italian wine producer.

Natural wines generally have no middle ground; people usually love or hate them.

While we may be partial to amber and natural wines, we believe that several of these wines do have the ability to win conventional wine drinkers over to the natural camp. In this context, when we use the term “natural wines”, we are referring to wines that are chemical-free and unfiltered, with little to no sulfites added. Here’s a recap of the wines from that night, along with tasting notes (of course).

• Kidev erti Tavkveri Pét Nat NV

Tavkveri is a red wine variety from eastern Georgia, native to Kartli but also grown in Kakheti. It is a high-yielding variety and can be made into dry red, dry Rosé, sparkling, and sweet wines. Currently, it isn’t a widely used variety for wine production, even though it shows a lot of potential to deliver many types of crowd-pleasing wine.

This is a pétillant naturel which means that the wine is bottled before the first fermentation of the wine is finished. The fermentation finishes in the bottle which gives off the bubbles. This is a technique embraced by many natural wine producers. This wine is made by a Frenchman living in Georgia. It is light and has persistent bubbles that create a frizzante sensation in the mouth. It is clear and pink in color. There are subtle strawberry and cream soda flavors, which have us craving for more intensity from this wine.

• Makaridze Winery Tsitska 2015

Tsitska is a grape variety grown in west Georgia and a variety that we have become very fond of. This traditional qvevri wine is incredibly light, crisp, and delicious. The flavors are dominated by characteristics of peach, pear, melon, and lemon. This wine has obviously received skin contact because of the nice, soft tannins but people might not think it is a qvevri wine because of the lack of nuttiness. A refreshing wine that kickstarts a celebratory evening on the perfect note.

• Archil Natsvlishvili Rkatsiteli 2015 

Rkatsiteli is the most ubiquitous white wine variety in Georgia; almost half of the white wine grapes grown in Georgia are Rkatsiteli. It is a hardy variety that is resistant to cold weathers and maintains high acidity and high sugar as it ripens. This variety can be made into dry, semi-sweet, and fortified wines and brandy. Rkatsiteli is relatively quiet in aroma and as such, is often blended with Mtsvane Kakhuri to create a more expressive nose. Such blends of Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane Kakhuri are found in PDOs like Gurjaani, Tsinandali, and Vazisubani.

John is usually a strong proponent of this wine but is disappointed with how it’s showing this particular evening. The first aroma that pops out of this amber wine is peeled banana. Flavors of pineapple, peach, and apricot show up afterward and the grippy tannins make this a perfect companion to food. Wonderful and well-made, with not even a trace of muskiness–a common characteristic found in many natural wines–but not the most striking bottle.

• Tsikhelishvili Wines Rkatsiteli 2013

Made by a winemaker who owns two-hectare of vineyards and uses the grapes to produce only this wine and a Mtsvane. This is the star of the night for both of us, Charine and Matthew. It is an amber wine made in Kakhetian qvevri method–a method that is touted to create the fullest, most powerful and most expressive wine in Georgia. Golden in color; on the nose, it has aromas of cherry, strawberry, cilantro, and a touch of straw. On the palate, it shows up immediately with a pronounced yet gentle weight, held together by a directive structure. A wine that shows the typical flavors of a well-made amber wine with characteristics of honey and green tea, yet it drinks like a fresh red wine with its red fruit and dark floral notes and astringent tannins.

• Pheasant’s Tears Rkatsiteli 2015

A bright color, clean, and fresh qvevri wine. The explosive flavors are reminiscent of pineapple, lemon, and apricot, executed with a gentle weight on the palate. Despite the skin contact, there is no nuttiness present but the tannins may be considered strong by a lot of people. A bodacious wine that does very well with food.

• Pheasant’s Tears Rosé Rkatsiteli 2015

Made with a rare clone of Rkatsiteli in traditional qvevri style; Rkatsiteli is typically used to make white or amber wine, but this clone departs an alluring bright ruby red pigmentation to this rosé wine. The wine is light on the palate and shows flavors of  strawberry, apricot, and nuts, powered by a subtle but distinct grip. This is the first vintage of a Rosé Rkatsiteli made by Pheasant’s Tears and is a very solid offering. 

• Dario Prinčič Pinot Grigio 2011

We end the night with this wine and it takes about 20 minutes to open up and fully expresses itself. It starts off shy with a pronounced musky aroma. The extended skin contact shows in the color–a light pink hue that can fool people into thinking that it might be a rosé wine. This wine has wonderful flavors of strawberry, pineapple, apricot, nuts, with a hint of rubber and petrol, held together by a tannic spine. Charine doesn’t appreciate this wine while Matt finds it tremendous and ties it with the Tsikhelishvili Rkatsiteli as the wine of the evening.

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Note: The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

The post A Night of Natural Wines in Tbilisi, Georgia appeared first on Wine Travel.