natural wine Archives - Wine Travel

Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria (Part 4/4)

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL — Wed, 19 Sep 2018 23:00:21 +0000

Reading Time: In the Spring of 2018, we set out on a re-tour of Croatia to bring our book Cracking Croatian Wine: A Visitor Friendly-Guide to life. There was so much to share about Istria that we ended up shooting four episodes there. In part 1 of Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, we offer an overview of the wine grape-growing condition and a peek at what Istrian cuisine has to offer. In part 2, we shift the focus to Malvazija Istarska, the most widely planted grape in the region. In part 3, we dive deep into Istria’s gastronomy and go on a truffle hunt. This is the last episode about Istria. In this episode, we take you out on a spearfishing trip in the Adriatic Sea and recommend some elusive vinous gems of Croatia.

The Adriatic-Powered Wine and Seafood from Istria

Watch “Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, Part 4 of 4” on Exotic Wine Travel YouTube:

Timestamps: Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, Part 4/4

(0:58) Introduction to the seaside town of Poreč. (1:30) Meet Milan Budinski, winemaker of Vina Laguna Winery and former national spearfishing champion. He catches some fresh shellfish from the Adriatic Sea for us to taste. (2:39) Milan Budinski and his wife Ivana Budinski prepare an Adriatic seafood feast from our morning catch. The meal is paired well with a Malvazija Istarska wine from Vina Laguna Winery. (4:35) Learn about the terra rossa (Italian for “red earth”) soil of western Istria. Terra rossa is a red, clay-like soil with good drainage characteristics. (6:17) Meet Dimitri Brečević of Piquentum Winery. He takes us up to the remote village of Vrh and shows us some vineyards. (7:27) Meet Adriano Grbac of Grbac Winery, one of the first wineries in Croatia to make traditional-method sparkling wine. He doesn’t sell his wines in retail shops, so these wines can only be bought at the cellar. (9:12) Discover one of the most famous restaurants in Istria, Konoba Stari Podrum. (10:12) Meet Marino Markežić and Ana Markežić of Kabola Winery, a certified organic wine producer. Kabola is best known for its Malvazija and Teran wines, including a few examples made in amphora (Georgian qvevri). (12:18) We wrap up our time in Istria and offer a preview of the upcoming episodes about Dalmatia.

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Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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VinNatur: A Proponent of Checks and Balances

CHARINE TAN — Thu, 30 Aug 2018 16:45:24 +0000

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“You’re a really good agriculturist but you’re a bad winemaker.”

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara‘s winemaker and founder, thinks this statement from oenologist Franco Giacosa might have changed the course of his life as a winemaker.

“In the past, I would say a good wine is 90% vineyard and 10% winery. Today, I would say that wine is made in the vineyard, that’s the base. But wine is not fully made in the vineyard.”

Whether it’s made in the vineyard or winery, the point of it all, as Angiolino explains, “It’s about making natural wine without defects. That’s the first goal.”

In this video interview, we chat with Angiolino Maule about his work and goals.

What is VinNatur?

Founded by Angiolino Maule in 2006, VinNatur is a wine association that unites and supports small producers of natural wines. In 12 years, the association has grown from its original 65 founding members to now representing 190 producers from nine countries: Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Austria, Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Slovenia.

Going Beyond Organic and Biodynamic

“Natural wine” is an interesting and attractive concept but an ambiguous term in the present-day wine world. The definition of natural wine remains subjective with no official accreditation to support producers who claim to make natural wine, which in turn leads to abuse and criticism—especially around the semantic properties of “natural wine”.

As natural wine continues to rise in popularity, VinNatur plays a paramount role in defining its premises. Going beyond ideological and philosophical ideas, the association has specified a list of permitted and forbidden practices—both in the vineyard and cellar—for its members.

You can take a look at VinNatur’s procedure guideline here, which was put in place in July 2016. All VinNatur wines are officially certified by external laboratories verifying that no pesticides, no herbicides, and no chemical fertilizers have been used in the process of making the wines. Checks are done every year and are mandatory for each producer. The prime objectives are threefold:

To align members of the association and improve the quality of natural wines through scientific research, lab analysis, and innovative natural winemaking techniques.
To communicate explicitly to VinNatur’s consumers about how the wines of VinNatur are made.
To offer VinNatur’s consumers more than self-declarations but guarantees of quality and reliability.

And Moving Forward

Currently, VinNatur is the only natural wine association in Italy that collaborates with universities and research centers. Besides the regular checks and inspections, VinNatur is also delving deeper into the sustainable ecological development of vineyards. The research subjects that VinNatur is working on include soil vitality, entomological and botanical biodiversity of vineyards, and reduction of copper and sulphur usage.

“Our research is based on both observations and scientific data,” says Angiolino.

He continues, “We are focusing on how to replace copper and sulphur with vegetable extracts that help vines to build up resistance. But our most major project is on biodiversity.”

“But if your mind is not mature enough, no methodology is going to work.”

I’m sitting in a Villa Favorita 2018 class, called “Natural Wine Making – The Role of the Cellar”, and I am particularly intrigued by the dialogue’s focus on personal well-being and ethical living. It resonates with me since I only began to appreciate natural wine because it aligns with my lifestyle choices.

The speakers are the aforementioned Franco Giacosa and Angiolino Maule.

The speakers discuss how natural winemakers can take conventional wisdom in life and apply it to minimal-intervention winemaking—from committing to a healthy diet to developing an inner compass of personal values. Following the rules of nature and life, Angiolino says, “But if your mind and philosophy are not mature enough, no methodology is going to work.”

Ultimately, being a VinNatur wine producer requires unwavering commitment built upon personal conviction.

“You have to work on the winemaker’s mindset and convince them that prevention is the way, not chemical treatment.”

Villa Favorita: VinNatur’s Annual Event

Villa Favorita is one of the biggest natural wine fairs in the world. Held at an 18th-century Venetian manor in Sarego (Vicenza, Italy), the three-day annual event serves as a meeting point for producers, distributors, and consumers. The event usually takes place in the same week as Vinitaly, and both event locations are about 50 kilometers apart.

158 producers participated in the 2018 edition where visitors got to taste and purchase the wines made by these VinNatur producers.

The 2018 program was thoughtfully designed to help people discover and learn about natural wines. Besides the walk-about tasting where visitors got to taste wines and speak with winemakers, there were also thematic tastings of volcanic wines and orange wines; masterclasses about minerality in wine and aging wines made without SO2; and dialogue classes like the abovementioned “Natural Wine Making – The Role of the Cellar”.

So let’s address the elephant in the room. Were there a lot of bad wines, funky wines, and wines with faults? The short answer is no. There is no bourgeois high horse to ride on; we’re drinking pretty well here, naturally! I spent two days at the event and tasted over 150 wines; less than 10 of those wines showed perceptible microbiological flaws. It was the first time that I attended VinNatur’s Villa Favorita. According to my more experienced colleagues, the wines of VinNatur have made a tremendous leap in quality over the past three years.

Video Recap: VinNatur’s Villa Favorita 2018

Recommended VinNatur Producers

As stated under “Statute” on the VinNatur’s website:

To produce wine in a natural manner means fully respecting the territory, the vines and nature’s cycle and, through experimentation, limiting the use of invasive and toxic chemical and technological agents both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar. It is the Association’s intent to preserve wine’s individuality from the standardization that chemistry, technology and industrialization have brought to the world of agriculture and particularly to wine related activities.

Viticulture and vinification make up a complex ecosystem where chaos reigns and the balance can so easily tip towards outcomes we don’t desire. I appreciate the VinNatur’s community for its concerted and informed effort to create an as-close-to-ideal-as-possible environment where nature can take its course and leaves us with something beautiful and real. What’s more: the association is doing its part to safeguard soil balance and the ecosystem.

Here are 12 VinNatur producers and wines to be on the lookout for.

1. Barale (Piedmont, Italy)

Another winery that I can’t wait to taste more from: Barale Fratelli. I had a chance to try one wine from them at @vinnatur_org’s #VillaFavorita2018 and it’s this alluring Barolo. It seems outrageous that this Barolo Castellero 2014 Barolo is so drinkable right now. The essence of rose and fresh red cherry are built into its core. Dried savory herbs and a light hint of earthy characteristic penetrate the edges. A Barolo on the finesse side.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 22, 2018 at 10:58am PDT

1. Éric Texier (Rhône, France)

Quite possibly my favorite red at @vinnatur_org’s #VillaFavorita2018. Éric Texier’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015 captures the intense purity of precious old-vine fruit in a bag of finesse. Native-yeast, whole-cluster fermentation with one-week maceration without punchdown (that lightness!). Aged in old oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered wine. The early picking is quite apparent. No way, it’s not green at all. The phenolic ripeness is perfect. It’s the fresh acidity and splendid fresh fruit flavors that tell the details. This might be the most elegant and aromatic Châteauneuf-du-Pape I’ve ever tasted. It gives me the same emotions I got when I had my first taste of Tignanello (my bourgeois ghost never dies). Drink from 2020-2030.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 22, 2018 at 10:11pm PDT

1. Daniele Portinari (Veneto, Italy)

I gave myself the challenge of picking just one white grape wine and one red grape wine to take home from @vinnatur_org’s #villafavorita18. The @daniele_portinari’s Garganega was my final choice for the white. 📝 This wine underwent one day of maceration and was fermented in steel tanks. I appreciate the spicy nose which has a bit of red wine’s character. Soft in the mouth with floral nuances and a gentle tug of tannins. 👌🏼 I picked this because, well, I enjoy the wine and Garganega is an indigenous grape of Veneto. I also wanted to buy wine from a new producer or young winemaker with a small production size.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 16, 2018 at 4:08am PDT

1. Fongoli (Umbria, Italy)

If it’s Montefalco, I want it. @cantina_fongoli’s “Serpullo” Montefalco Rosso Riservs is a blend of predominantly Sangiovese with some Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The grapes were picked from 40-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation happened in open vats. Aging took place in large, neutral Slavonian casks for three years. No fining, no filtration. Good ol’ @vinnatur_org style. 🍷The 14.5% abv is very well-integrated. A big wine that should be served later in the night. I adore the massive load of plum flavor perked up by maraschino cherry. A little bit of leather. A little bit of candlewax. A balanced full-bodied wine that is neither too indulgent nor made up.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 21, 2018 at 5:43pm PDT

1. Gratavinum (Priorat, Spain)

(Click on the right arrow icon on the photo to view more images.)

Yay! I finally had a chance to taste the wines of @gratavinum, thanks to @vinnatur_org! Priorat + Demeter certified + working with amphora = totally my kind of deal. The Gratavinum’s Silvestris Priorat 2015 (4th photo) was selected by @decanter’s Andrew Jefford as the top 10 wines at a blind tasting of 122 natural wines. Interestingly, my best impression goes to the one and only white and a non-Priorat at that (5th photo): Amphora Roja 2017 (Xerel-lo). It’s spicy, minerally, and wonderfully distinct. All the reds are good too; and despite the price difference of nearly $70 between some, they belong to the same band of quality for me. 🤷🏻‍♀️

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 22, 2018 at 10:37am PDT

1. Heinrich (Burgenland, Austria)

Spent the day in classes and conducting interviews. By the time I was ready for tasting, I had less than an hour left at @vinnatur_org’s #VillaFavorita2018. I thought the most effective way to spend the last hour would be in the media room, get some turbo-charged tasting going on and only note down the wines that really stop me in my tracks. And this Heinrich’s Blaufränkisch Leithaberg 2014 did exactly that. It wasn’t my first encounter with Heinrich’s wines, and now I’m completely baffled why I didn’t give them any attention in the past. This Blaufränkisch is structured and defined like a professional pumpkin carving. The flavors are packed seamlessly like a turducken—rich, complex, and utterly fascinating. A wine that I want poured into every glass at my thanksgiving dinner.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 18, 2018 at 11:37am PDT

1. Mas Zenitude (Languedoc, France)

(Click on the right arrow icon on the photo to view more images.)

@maszenitude was one of my favorite discoveries at @vinnatur_org’s #villafavorita2018. Located in the Herault wine region in Languedoc, Mas Zenitude practices biodynamic farming and never adds S02 in the cellar. The Mas Zenitude’s Carignan wines are interesting, and I think it would appeal to many people; but I find them to be too savory and earthy and not enough fruit for my palate. I am, however, incredibly fond of “Zenith” Syrah 2012, a stunning 100% Syrah wine that delivers a floral overtone, high flavor intensity, and precise structure—it was one of the three reds that I wanted to buy but didn’t have time to head back on the last day of the event.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 30, 2018 at 6:25am PDT

1. Reyter (Alto Adige, Italy)

Alto Adige’s producer Reyter makes a “Rahm” Lagrein wine with grapes from 80-year-old vines, which are rooted in sandy clay porphyry alluvial soil with rocky sediments. The vineyards are farmed with ecological philosophy and the vinification is aligned with @vinnatur_org. Reyter’s Rahm is deep, dark, somber, and demands a drinker’s undivided attention. It’s quite an intellectually and sensually compelling wine, and oddly, I think some dubstep music would go well with it.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 24, 2018 at 7:15am PDT

1. Rocco di Carpeneto (Piedmont, Italy)

Tasted three Barbera bottlings by Rocco di Carpento at @vinnatur_org’s #villafavorita2018, and they ranged from good to very good and outstanding. I was most fond of the amphora-fermented Barbera, which was the most structured and rounded up—a tad ‘un-Barbera’ in the most delightful way. The one in the photo, Reitemp, is an old-vine bottling; it showed a good balance of the fruity, earthy, and herbal parts. The structure was juicier and ‘messier’—exactly what a Barbera lover loves: a sense of rusticity like a simple, delicious and wholesome meal.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 16, 2018 at 8:02am PDT

1. Tarlant (Champagne, Italy)

Yes yes yes! @tarlant’s Cuvée Louis had been on my wishlist for years. I finally had a chance to try it at @vinnatur_org last weekend. This wine is born from the vines planted by the late Louis Tarlant, who was the mayor of the Oeuilly village and a leader in the grower movement to regulate and protect Champagne production; his efforts resulted in the creation of the Champagne AOC in 1927. Louis Tarlant was also one of the early adopters of zero dosage. This Cuvée Louis is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from five vintages, 1996-2000. Primary fermentation was done in barriques, no malolactic fermentation, and 15 years in the bottle before disgorgement. It’s chiseled, chalky, light, creamy, and profoundly layered. I definitely need to put a few of this in my cellar.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 16, 2018 at 7:03am PDT

1. Terpin (Friuli, Italy)

(Click on the right arrow icon on the photo to view more images.)

Managed to check off a few wish-listed wines at @vinnatur_org’s #VillaFavorita including a well-aged Terpin’s Ribolla Gialla. Marvelous, just a marvelously detailed wine. Musky overtone, cinnamon, nutmeg, all the sweet brown spices, baked apple, then the savory green herbs hit, oregano for days, the flavors coat every inch of the mouth, structured with tannins striking at an almost perfect vantage point… oh my, I could go on but I shouldn’t so I wouldn’t. The Terpin Jakot is impressive as well. Jakot, don’t you love Jakot/Tocai Friulano? Such a juicy, orangey wine! The Terpin Jakot seems to capture Franco Terpin in a bottle: bright, bold, and rigorous. The surprise for me comes from Terpin’s Sauvignon Blanc—gently aromatic and throws more punches on the palate than on the nose.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 21, 2018 at 2:44pm PDT

1. Thomas Niedermayr (Alto Adige, Italy)

Thomas Niedermayr from Alto Adige was one of the wineries that I marked out and wanted to taste from at @vinnatur_org’s #VillaFavorita2018. Unfortunately, my to-do list was still far too ambitious for the nature of time. Thankfully, at dinner on the last evening, the winemaker Thomas happened to sit next to me. That was when I had a chance to try his Souvignier Gris, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bronner. The wine left such a good impression that I’ll be sure to never miss another chance of tasting Thomas Niedermayr’s wine again. The winery works with PIWIs, which means fungus-resistant grape varieties—including Solaris and Bronner.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 22, 2018 at 10:11am PDT

– Thank you Emma Bently for helping me with translation during the Villa Favorita 2018’s classes.
– Thank you Irene Graziotto, Studio Cru, and the VinNatur for hosting me.

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Cracking Croatian Wine In Istria (Part 1/4)

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL — Mon, 09 Jul 2018 12:38:23 +0000

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In the Spring of 2018, we set out on a re-tour of Croatia to bring our book Cracking Croatian Wine: A Visitor Friendly-Guide to life. After Plešivica, our second stop was the Istria wine region. There was so much to share about Istria that we ended up shooting four episodes there. In Part 1 of Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, we introduce you to some interesting characters in the Istrian food and wine scene.

Istria Wine Region

Located on the north corner of the Adriatic Sea, Istria is extremely diverse in topography because of its towering mountains, rolling hills, pastureland, and coastline. The peninsula of Istria is surrounded on three sides by the Adriatic Sea and bounded by the Alps on the north, enabling a wide array of microclimates for viticulture. Most of the peninsula belongs to Croatia, with a small portion lying within Slovenia and Italy.

Istria touts the moniker “New Tuscany”, and it’s easy to observe where the similarities lie. The region is covered in vines, with green rolling hills topped by medieval towns. In addition to the topographical similarities, the Italian language is widely spoken here. Due to Istria’s proximity to Italy, many Istrians have Italian roots and relatives in Italy. The Istrian cuisine also takes on an Italian tint. Expect lots of hand-rolled pasta, fresh seafood, air-cured Pršut, tantalizing truffles, and award-winning olive oil when traveling in Istria. There are many small kitchens (called “konobas” in Croatia), similar to the traditional Italian trattorias and osterias, where you can scarf down honest, local fare paired with Istrian wines.

The wines of Istria are as exciting as its gastronomy. The leading wines of the region are made from indigenous varieties such as Malvazija Istarska and Teran.

Watch “Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, Part 1 of 4” on Exotic Wine Travel YouTube:

Timestamps: Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria, Part 1 of 4

(0:57) Introduction to Istria.

(1:40) Meet Jacqueline Marovac and Olivier Ertzbischoff of Domaine Koquelicot. Olivier is a Frenchman who dreamed of making high-quality Chardonnay in Croatia, where Jacqueline was born. The Domaine Koquelicot’s cellar is located in the town of Gračišće.

(3:24) We eat at Konoba Morgan, a local favorite in the Brtonigla town (near Buje) in Northwest Istria, The restaurant boasts beautiful views of the surrounding area and is listed in the Michelin Guide.

(4:43) Meet Marko Fakin of Fakin Winery. Marko is a new face on the Croatian wine scene, and he’s already won several local and international awards for his Malvazija and Teran wines.

(6:59) We visit Konoba Fakin in the hilltop town of Motovun and enjoy excellent seasonal dishes including wild asparagus and summer truffle (Tuber aestivum).

(8:10) Meet the man known as the “Godfather of Istria”: Giorgio Clai of Clai Winery. This producer is well-known throughout Croatia and around the world because of Giorgio Clai’s uncompromising take on making minimal-intervention wine and—of course—the superior quality of the wines.

(12:18) Preview of the next episode, Cracking Croatian Wine in Istria (Part 2 of 4).

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Making Cracking Croatian Wine Iconic Croatian Wines: Clai Brombonero and Clai Sv Jakov

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Clai Brombonero & Clai Sv Jakov: Two Iconic Croatian Wines

DR MATTHEW HORKEY — Thu, 12 Apr 2018 12:25:25 +0000

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Updated on 27 November 2018: We were invited to the launch of the new vintages of Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija and Brombonero Refošk. The wines were tasted over dinner at Dubravkin Put in Zagreb, Croatia. Nearly everyone was impressed with the new vintages.

Giorgio Clai has been called the “Godfather of Istria.” He is a well-known figure in not only Croatian wines but the world of minimal intervention wines as well.

Clai Winery is located in the northwest corner of the peninsula of Istria. Giorgio ran a successful restaurant business in nearby Trieste, Italy before coming back to Istria and starting a winery. He farms organically (certified) and utilizes Biodynamic principles. Giorgio prefers long macerations and depends on spontaneous fermentation utilizing wild yeasts.

Clai Brombonero Refošk & Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija

The two entry-level wines from Clai are the Ottocento Crni and Ottocento Bijeli. These are both excellent wines in their own right and worth seeking out. The Sv Jakov and Brombonero are reserve wines and can be difficult to get. The Brombonero has a waiting list every vintage and is often thought of as Croatia’s finest red wine.

Giorgio doesn’t keep a large archive of his own wines. He either drinks or sells most of his production. Because of this, it can be extremely difficult to do a vertical comparison of his wines, especially the reserve wines. Last year we attended a Clai workshop at the Vin Art Grand Tasting and compared both the Sv Jakov and Brombonero 2009 and 2013 vintages side by side. Just a few months after the workshop, we located a few bottles of the 2011 vintages in Belgrade, Serbia.

The Clai Sv. Jakov is a macerated white wine made from Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana). The Clai Brombonero Refošk is a dark, structured red wine made from Refosco dal Penduncolo Rosso.

You can watch and learn about Giorgio Clai & Clai Winery in this video (starting at 8:12).

Clai Wines: The Tasting Notes

Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2016

The latest vintage of Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija is the most impressive one that I’ve tasted. It has notes of tangerine & peel, dandelion, apricot, and sweet peach. Full bodied with intense minerality and a bitter almond finish and a touch of chewy tannins. The texture and nuances on the palate are what makes this truly special. 95/100

Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2015

This is a ripe and rich version of Sv. Jakov. It is full of yellow peach and yellow flower flavors. This is one of the richer and more textured versions of this bottling. This wine is highly structured and needs more time in the bottle to show its best. Our only gripe with this wine is that the alcohol sticks out a bit more in this vintage. 91/100

Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2013

This is full honeycomb in color. Ironically honeycomb, yellow flower, perfume, and ripe peach flavors dominate. This smells as if it would be sweet but it is dry, rich on the mouth and tangy with a beautiful bitter flower and tangerine finish. This isn’t for everyone because the bitter flower flavors can take over, but for wine nerds, this is a real treat. 93/100

Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2011

You can see our tasting notes in the Exotic Wine Travel Facebook post below. 94/100

Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2009

Tangerine color. This is more earth and mineral-driven than other vintages, thanks to the aging. Ripe peach, yellow flower, and vanilla spice round out the flavors. Rich and full on the palate, the fruit takes over with a savory feel. This has a smooth and long finish. 93/100

Clai Brombonero Refošk 2015

Can the Clai Brombonero Refošk 2015 become as great as the 2009? It’s very possible after ten years in the bottle. This wine knocked my socks off… again. It’s full of red fruit, cedar, tobacco, white pepper, and mineral. Intense and concentrated, the wine is full bodied without being too fat. Small and grainy tannins, this vintage is again the real deal. 94/100

Clai Brombonero Refošk 2013

Dark, almost black in color. This wine is full of blackberry, leather, pepper, and mineral notes with a touch of violets. Real dense on the palate, it feels almost like a high structured Merlot. Fruity with high flavor intensity and a long finish, this has the stuffing to last a long time. This still hasn’t shed all its baby fat, more time in the bottle will reveal greater beauty. 93/100

Clai Brombonero Refošk 2011

Deep and dark with chocolate, leather, tobacco, blackberry, and violets that transition the flavors into red cherry. This has a lot of life ahead of it. Tannins are firm but not overly hard. The wine does a great job of keeping Refosco DPR’s wildness while being refined at the same time. Very juicy acidity equals a wine that is drinking well now but can keep for much longer. 94/100

Clai Brombonero Refošk 2009

Giorgio Clai says that this wine is the best wine he’s ever made. The 2009 Brombonero Refosšk is still pitch black in color. It is taking on some forest floor notes at 8 years of age. Black plum, blackberry, leather, and pepper flavors dominate. This is very juicy on the palate and has a long life ahead of it. The finish has a touch of black pepper. 96/100

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Clai wines

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Островная Хорватия: органически незаурядные вина (An article about Clai’s wines in the Ukrainian language)

Cover photo courtesy of Clai Winery.

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Exotic Wine Travel’s 17 Wines of 2017

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL — Tue, 09 Jan 2018 01:25:00 +0000

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2017 marked the third year of our location-independent lifestyle and the second year of our wine career. It was a momentous year for us—in the span of 12 months, we authored and published our second and third wine book Sipping Santa Barbara and Cracking Croatian Wine, traveled to seven countries, and tasted over 2,000 wines. For professional development reasons, we usually aim to taste at least 3,000 wines every year. However, because of our publishing deadlines, we were relatively sedentary in 2017 as we spent more than half of the year in Croatia and Serbia while finishing the production of our books; the other six months, we were traveling in the wine regions of Austria, Cyprus, Italy (Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Sardinia), Hungary, Slovakia, and Slovenia. In all the countries that we visited, we managed to find outstanding wines in every one of them. We mean… magnificent… unforgettable… outstanding… knockouts.

All in all, it was a rewarding year if we measure it out in wine glasses.

So here we go again: our favorite wines of the year. As advocates for diversity in wine and “Drink Adventurously” (our tagline), we hope our list reveals the ever-expanding choices that are available to wine lovers. While these 17 wines have been chosen based on, first and foremost, their sensory merits, other aspects are also taken into consideration. Did the wine teach us something new? Did it make us re-examine our assumptions? Did it spark curiosity or inspire conversations? Did it have a story or human element that mean something special to us? Ultimately, these are wines that we would highly recommend you, our wine-loving reader, to seek out.

SPARKLING WINE

Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millenaires 1995 – Champagne, France

We tasted this at a Charles Heidsieck workshop organized by VinArt Grand Tasting in Zagreb, Croatia. The presenter Drazan Sunjic was also our WSET teacher. Drazan knows the Champagne region and Champagne Charlie inside out. So it was an honor to have him share his knowledge and passion with us. The Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995 was the last wine of the tasting, and it wowed everyone in the room. Made from 100% Chardonnay, this bottle was disgorged in 2015. 19 years of lees aging, woohoo! Following 1983, 1985, and 1990, 1995 is only the fourth vintage of this tête de cuvée Champagne.

Why we love it: We had a hard time choosing between this and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006. We ended up picking Charles Heidsieck over Taittinger because it’s more developed at this point. The Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995 is a wine that must be tasted, not described.

Learn More | Best Of Vinart Grand Tasting 2017: Part 2

WHITE WINE

Bott Frigyes, Super Granum 2015 – Južnoslovenská, Slovakia

Bott Frigyes is an ethnic Hungarian living in South Slovakia. We first heard about his wines from Ernő Sagmeister of Dukay-Sagmeister winery in Serbia. If one of our favorite wine producers suggests we try the wines of another producer, we will follow the recommendation dutifully.

And so we did. During our two-week press tour in Slovakia, we had the chance to spend a night at the guesthouse of Bott Frigyes. Thank you, Tibor Vittek and Peter Drotár for organizing. After an elaborate tasting and dinner, Bott and his family left the guesthouse but not before trying to make us feel the most welcome.

Spending the night at one of our favorite wineries in Slovakia. And guess what, it’s “open cellar” night!

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“Help yourself to the wines.” Bott had left all the bottles that we tasted in the dining room. It was a long work day; we were knackered, but nothing was going to stop us from enjoying a nightcap.

Why we love it: Bott Frigyes Super Granum 2015 is a barrel-fermented cuvée of Furmint, Hárslevelü, and Juhfark. Exciting grapes? Check. The wine has a head-turning bouquet, vivid flavors, and an undeniable mineral characteristic. The quality level, irresistible refreshingness, subtle nuances, tension, and texture of this wine remind us of the best of Chablis.

Nikolaihof, Vinothek Riesling 2000 – Wachau, Austria

We were fortunate to drink this wine twice in 2017: the first time was at a workshop in Zagreb, Croatia, and the second time was at Austrian winemaker Hartmut Aubell‘s birthday celebration. The 1995 vintage of Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling was the first Austrian wine to receive 100 points from Robert Parker. Aged for 16 years in 3,500-liter oak cask and bottled in 2016, the 2000 vintage is the winery’s latest release of this wine.

Why we love it: It may be the greatest white wine that Matt has ever tasted. Also, this wine is a capsule of many fond memories—from our trip to Graz, Austria, to this…

A photo of our friend, Vjekoslav Stojišić, when he tasted this wine. Photo from: www.facebook.com/vinartgrandtasting

Learn More | Best Of Vinart Grand Tasting 2017: Part 1

RED WINE

Antinori, Solaia 2010 – Tuscany, Italy

One of the illustrious Aia’s of Tuscany… Ornellaia, Sassicaia, and Solaia. Antonio Galloni of Vinous wrote,” The 2010 is the greatest Solaia ever made.” We tend to agree with Galloni’s reviews, so when we found this 98-point wine—with an irresistible price tag to boot—in Belgrade, Serbia, it was a non-negotiable situation: let’s get it. Antinori Solaia is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Franc.

Why we love it: We opened this wine on May 22 to celebrate the second anniversary of our location-independent lifestyle. It was our first taste of Solaia, and it delivered more than we had imagined. Unfortunately, we did a disservice to this wine by drinking it at such a young age. Nevertheless, it showed a formidable marriage between finesse and power.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor 2007 – Maipo Valley, Chile

A moment of truth: has it all been a misplaced love or is the Serbian Kremen Kamen by Matalj winery one of the greatest reds? We put the Kremen Kamen wines up to a taste test next to Don Melchor (listed 8 times on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list) and are glad to see that Kremen Kamen is indeed a wine of great substance. Now that our love and faith in Serbian wine are justified, we wish our dear friend from Matalj winery that Kremen Kamen will have the same impact on Serbian wine industry as Don Melchor has on the Chilean wine image.

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In May 2017, we were in the final production stage of two books and inching towards being burned out. Matt decided to purchase a few iconic wines as a form of encouragement and pick-me-up. The stash included Antinori Solaia 2010 (listed above), Antinori Tignanello 2011, Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2012, Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2009, Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011 (listed below), M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 2010, and this—our good ol’ Don Melchor, a wine we used to drink a fair bit back in Singapore. Three out of those seven wines ended up being our “wine of the year”, so it was a perceptive splurge by Matt.

Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot, this wine has been listed eight times on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list, and the 2007 vintage scored 94+ points from The Wine Advocate by Robert Parker. We were in Serbia at that time so we thought we’d make a fun tasting out of this bottle. After all, it’s not often that one can find a 10-year-old Don Melchor on the shelf. We met up with Nikola Mladenović Matalj, the owner and winemaker of Matalj winery, and arranged a vertical tasting of his Matalj Kremen Kamen (which was in our Top 16 of 2016 list) along this wine.

Why we love it: We were fortunate to catch Don Melchor 2007 at its prime drinking window: the wine was showing the perfect balance between primary and tertiary notes. This remains to be the best bottle/vintage of Don Melchor we’ve tasted.

Learn More | Matalj Kremen Kamen: A Vertical Tasting

Fontodi, Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 2011 – Tuscany, Italy

2011 Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. A burly Chianti with 15% abv, fruit flavors so intense that they are redolent of berry strips, and 6% acidity that disciplines the many layers into a harmonious unity. This wine is approaching the window of great drinkability but clearly has many more years of evolvement ahead before unveiling its peak. Flavors of sour cherry, black plum, tobacco, licorice, sweet cedar, cinnamon stick, and leather. Chewy tannins lead to a lengthy, strikingly tart yet sweet finish. This is a divisive wine as we’ve just drunk a bottle of 2011 Tignanello. Matt prefers the Tignanello because he thinks it has higher drinkability now. Charine prefers this wine for its powerful attack.

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We had a bottle of Fontodi Chianti Classico on our first date. That wine turned out to be a favorable choice for us in more than one way. So five years later, it was time to step up and give this Gran Selezione version a try.

Why we love it: It was a tough choice between this and its preeminent sibling, the Fontodi Flaccianello Della Pieve. In the end, this burly Chianti took the spot because of its current accessibility. And, to us, it’s simply more distinctive and more memorable than Flaccianello 2009. This wine is so good that it may even make your burp smell good.

Francuska Vinarija, Obećanje 2009 – Negotin, Serbia

I guess it’s no surprise that the Serbian winery Francuska Vinarija’s headliner is this Gamay bottling, since the proprietors are from Burgundy. Bouquet of predominantly redcurrant, maraschino cherry, and chalk, with lingering notes of white pepper, lilac, and leather in the background. Structured with juicy acidity and ripe fruit sweetness on the palate. For a 2009 wine, it’s incredible that I feel a tad sad for drinking it too early. In 2 to 3 years, the leather character will probably become more pronounced, and I expect a bit more tobacco leaf and earthy notes that can make this wine more nuanced than it already is. I was going to say it is more Fleurie in style but later decided that a reference to an aged Saint-Armour might be more accurate.

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Located in East Serbia, Francuska Vinarija, which translates to “French Winery”, is owned and operated by a Burgundian couple. These wines are not available in Serbia as the entire production is exported, mostly to France. It took us nearly two years to track these wines down: our friend had some bottles in his cellar, and he offered a case for us to taste. We were impressed with all the Francuska Vinarija’s wines that we tried. However, this Gamay bottling called Obećanje was a cut above the rest. The name Obećanje means “the promise”.

Why we love it: It’s the best non-Cru Beaujolais Gamay we’ve tasted.

Learn More | Serbian Grand Cru on the Slopes of Danube

Jakončič, Carolina Select 2006 – Brda, Slovenia

Prior to our 2017 trip to Brda, Slovenia, we knew nothing about Jakončič winery. We only found out about them when we arrived in Slovenia and Matjaž Zagradišnik from the winery reached out to us with a cellar invitation. Throughout the tasting, we were happy with the wines. Then, we got to the Grand Vin—Carolina Select, a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon—and it was an epic slam dunk. A wine that is built to age for decades, Jakončič Carolina Select is a wine with a waiting list and rightfully so.

Why we love it: Jakončič Carolina Select 2006 is a superlative Merlot. When we tasted this wine, it was immediately clear to us that it would be a highlight of the year. It has an opulent bouquet, full and luscious texture, intense fruit attack on the palate, and a persistent, focused finish.

Learn More | Marjan Simčič and Jakončič: Classically Styled Slovenian Wine

Kozlović, Santa Lucia Noir 2012 – Istria, Croatia

Another tough selection. We shortlisted Clai Brombonero Refošk 2011, Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija, 2011, Coronica Gran Teran 2011, Trapan The One 2012, and this wine for the article. All of them are from Istria, Croatia. We ended up choosing Kozlović Santa Lucia Noir 2012 because of its current appeal balanced with future potential. It’s a wine that will undoubtedly appeal to many.

Made only in exceptionally great years, Kozlović Santa Lucia Noir 2012 is a 50-30-20 blend of Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Teran from the Santa Lucia Vineyard, an area that is best known for its mineral-driven whites. We were so glad that we managed to taste this wine right before finalizing our manuscript of Cracking Croatian Wine.

Why we love it: It’s a “Super Istrian”, so to speak. This wine retains Teran’s tingling acidity and ferrous aroma while putting on some luxurious, Bordeaux-esque contours.

Learn More | 10 Istrian Wines to Try

Miani, Merlot Buri 2013 – Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

In January, we spent a week in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The winery that left the deepest impression was Miani, a recommendation that came from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous forum. When we posted on the forum seeking suggestions for “only the best wineries in Friuli”, one member replied, “There can only be one… Miani.”

Why we love it: The finest essence in a bottle. Want to know what soaring intensity feels like? This is your bottle. It’s one of the greatest Merlots we’ve tasted.

Learn More | Miani: What Wine Dreams are Made of

Vylyan Duennium 2006 – Villány, Hungary

We first tasted Vylyan’s wine at a Villányi Franc workshop in February 2017. It was one of the two Villányi Cabernet Francs that stood out to us. A few months later, we had the chance to visit the winery. And as you might expect, we went with high expectations. By the end of our one-month stay in Hungary, we concluded that Vylyan remains as our top 10 favorite wineries in the country. Vylyan Duennium is a Cabernet Franc-based wine. For 2006 Duennium, some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon were also added to the cuvée.

Why we love this: It was our favorite wine during our three-day tasting trip in Villány. Exceptionally youthful for its age, this is a wine that shows a sense of place. We would love to share a bottle with our collector friends in the future.

SKIN CONTACT WINE

Dario Prinčič, Bianco Trebež 2012 – Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

Charine spotted the Dario Prinčič Bianco Trebež 2012 at an inconspicuous wine bar in Belgrade, Serbia. It was tucked clumsily in a corner of the wine fridge. Every time we see Dario Prinčič’s wine, it would be a done deal. We requested to purchase the wine, but as it turned out, the wine was not for sale; it belonged to the bar’s owner. When the owner heard about our request and saw our enthusiasm, he decided to open a bottle and shared it with us. Dario Prinčič Bianco Trebežis is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio.

Why we love it: It’s a poised and complete amber wine with an allure that keeps us coming back for more. We were introduced to Dario Prinčič by our friend, John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears Winery (Georgia). Since our first bottle with John, we’ve shared many bottles of Bianco Trebež with various people. In a way, this wine is like a torque to us: centralizing and generalizing friendships through the vinous power.

Movia, Lunar 8 2008 – Brda, Slovenia

This wine was tied with Movia Puro 2010 in terms of sensory merits. We ended up choosing Movia Lunar 8 because of the context in which we drank it. On Matt’s 35th birthday, we shared a magnum of this wine with a group of winemakers, wine writers, and wine enthusiasts in Zagreb, Croatia. We tasted more than 10 wines that night, and this was the “Wine of the Night” with nearly full consensus. Movia Lunar 8 is made from 100% Rebula.

Why we love it: Charine said, “This wine is so good that it makes me feel like I’m drinking above my station.” It’s a wine that can arouse much pride, desire, delight, curiosity, and awareness.

Learn More | Kabaj and Movia: Slovenian Wines with Big Personalities

Radikon, Fuori dal Tempo 2001 -Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

Radikon was on our “Do Not Miss” list when we traveled to Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Our visit came less than five months after Stanko Radikon’s passing in the fall of 2016, and the family was missing Stanko dearly. Fuori dal Tempo means “outside of time”. This is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc.

Why we love it: At the time of our visit in January 2017, this was the second vintage confirmed for this bottling. Charine teared up when she tasted this wine. Radikon Fuori dal Tempo 2001 hovers on the palate with exquisite grace. It’s a sublime masterpiece that was personally crafted by Stanko Radikon.

Learn More | Gravner and Radikon: Italian Wines Without Compromise

SWEET WINE

The Anama Concept, Anama Vintage 2012 – Commandaria, Cyprus

In February 2017, we were on a two-week press tour in Cyprus. The Anama Concept wasn’t included in our official itinerary. But thanks to our friend George Gkenos, we found our way to the home of Lefteris Mohianakis and Kristina Apostolou Mohianakis—the husband-and-wife team behind this designer-chic producer.

The Anama Concept’s Anama Vintage cannot be officially called “Commandaria” because it’s made outside of the 14 designated Commandaria villages. But it’s still that time-tested, familiar taste of Cyprus’s most famous sweet wine made from the raisined grapes of Mavro and Xinisteri—both indigenous to Cyprus. This is the only wine that The Anama Concept produces, and the production is around 2,000 bottles per year.

Why we love it: The Anama Concept has taken one of the oldest wine brands in the world, preserved the tenets of Commandaria’s story, revitalized its image, refined its taste, and given it a time-relevant makeover. This wasn’t the only Commandaria-style wine that we loved during our Cyprus trip, but it stood out the most because of its dried fruit and citrus qualities, meaning it was less oxidative-tasting than most Commandaria wines. We also respect the vision of The Anama Concept and cherish the intimate time spent with Lefteris and Kristina at their home.

Learn More | Cyprus Sweet Wines: Commandaria and More

Tokaj & Co., 5 Putñovy 1990 – Tokaj, Slovakia

Tokaj & Co. was a state-run winery during the communist era in Czechoslovakia. The winery is now privately owned. The Tokaj & Co., 5 Putñovy 1990 is part of a limited-edition, archive wine release, which means it is still readily available on the market. The 127g/l of residual sugar is supported by 11g of total acidity.

Why we love it: During our two-week trip through the wine regions of Slovakia, this was arguably the most compelling Slovak wine that we tasted. True to the sweet Tokaji of that era, this wine is oxidative in style and densely packed but without heaviness. The botanical bouquet draws us in and the sugar-acid balance gives it dominance and youth. The front load of dried sweet fruit flavors are contrasted by a tart and spicy finish. This is a living example that great sweet Tokaji can be found in Slovakia.

Video | Exotic Wine Travel in Slovak Tokaj

Vega Sicilia, Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia 2007 – Tokaj, Hungary

Tokaji Eszencia is the rarest and most expensive of all the wines made in Tokaj. Prior to our 2017 wine trip to Hungary, we didn’t care much for Tokaji Eszencia. The idea of an exceptionally viscous wine with at least 450g/l residual sugar and 1-5% ABV was odd-sounding. Would it still taste like wine? Do people really drink it from a spoon?

Our visit at Oremus was set up by our friends from Wine Elite. During the tasting, we had the chance to try some rare, aged Tokaji Aszú wines including a 1956 vintage and a 1972. 1956 is a significant year because of the Hungarian Revolution and 1972 is widely touted as “the best vintage of the last century in Tokaj”. Still, Tokaji Eszencia 2007 was the transcendent one.

Why we love it: When we visited Tokaj, Charine was searching for the ‘Chateau d’Yquem of Hungary’. She found it in this exquisite bottle. Like pure energy in a bottle, drinking this wine makes us feel… healed. Vega Sicilia Oremus Tokaji Eszencia 2007 has 515g/l residual sugar, 15g/l total acidity, and 3% ABV. Those are some enticing numbers tucked in an extraordinary wine.

Video | Exotic Wine Travel in Tokaj, Hungary

This list seems fundamentally incomplete without a rosé wine. So here’s the most exciting rosé we’ve tasted in 2017: Gut Oggau Brutal Rosé 2016

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Marjan Simčič and Jakončič: Classically Styled Slovenian Wine

DR MATTHEW HORKEY — Thu, 09 Nov 2017 07:57:06 +0000

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After finishing our book Cracking Croatian Wine, we decided to make a week-long tasting trip through Goriška Brda, Kras, and Vipava Valley. Our tasting trip through Western Slovenia yielded many gems and exceeded our already lofty expectations.

The standard of winemaking is outstanding and several producers are on par with some of the world’s best. Marjan Simčič and Jakončič are no exceptions, these are two wineries that are sure to please even the most discerning palates. Both are located in the Goriška Brda, an extension of the more famous Collio region of Italy (it actually should be the other way around since Goriška Brda has significantly more vineyard space than Collio).

Because of its proximity to the Adriatic, Goriška Brda experiences a Mediterranean climate with significant alpine influence from the Julian Alps. The region sits directly between high mountains and the Adriatic Sea. The marl, limestone, and sandstone soils give wines from this region a distinctly mineral character.

Goriška Brda has become an epicenter of amber wines and minimal intervention production but these two producers are famous for classically-styled wines. Wines from Marjan Simčič and Jakončič will please those used to classic flavors. They are wines that are more readily understandable to most wine enthusiasts.

Marjan Simčič Winery

The wines of Marjan Simčič (pronounce: Sihm-chihch) have received a lot of praise over the last few years, especially from American critics James Suckling and Robert Parker. We don’t always buy into the hype, so we wanted to visit and taste the wines for ourselves.

One of our friends from Croatia told us that these wines are the finest in Slovenia. That’s some big-time praise coming from a country with an already sterling wine reputation. Add that to the 90+ point scores and the bar was set so high for our visit that we were prepared to be let down by the wines.

Marjan Simčič has 18 hectares of vineyards that produce around 90,000 bottles per year. The wines are categorized into three tiers: the entry level, the reserve line named Selekcija, and the Grand Cru line named Opoka. Opoka is the name of the calcium- and silicate- rich type of marl soil. This soil gives the wines of Marjan Simčič (as well as others producers in Goriška Brda) a distinctive mineral character.

Sitting down and tasting Marjan Simčič’s wines instantly made us believers. Valerija, Marjan’s wife, let us taste through nearly the entire portfolio. It was the first time since Santa Barbara Wine Country that we were impressed with a Pinot Noir.

Both the Selekcija and Opoka versions of Pinot Noir have tight structure and subtle power. The Chardonnay and Rebula from both the Selekcija and Opoka lines are beautiful as well, and the Merlot Opoka drinks well past its price point. All of Marjan Simčič’s wines are well-crafted and retain a sense of place, which is what wine nuts go gaga for. These wines are the real deal and worthy of the high praise.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Marjan Simčič Rebula Opoka 2014

Aged for one year in large vats and one year in 500-liter barrels, the Marjan Simčič Rebula Opoka is also macerated for four days. Apple, flint, vanilla, and white peach. Round on the palate with excellent oak integration and sandy texture from the barrel. Even though this had skin contact, it acts and tastes more like a classic white wine. 4.6/5

Marjan Simčič Chardonnay Opoka 2014

Aged for one year in large vats and one year in 500-liter barrels, the Marjan Simčič Chardonnay Opoka is also macerated for four days. Banana, melon, pineapple, and ripe tropical fruit. Great texture and a long finish. This is a spectacular wine for the tough and rainy 2014 vintage. Like the Marjan Simčič Rebula, it tastes more like a classic white. 4.3/5

Marjan Simčič Pinot Noir Opoka 2013

This reserve Pinot Noir from Marjan Simčič is aged for one year in large vats and one year in 500-liter barrels. It’s a rich and ripe Pinot Noir with flavors of strawberry, raspberry, forest floor, and earth. The palate shows a lot of elegance while the acidity is juicy and stretches out the finish. This is a fantastic Pinot Noir anyway you slice it – the beauty of this bottling lies in its subtleties. 4.4/5

Marjan Simčič Merlot Opoka 2012

A big Merlot that spent five years in wood. This is dense with a luscious nose of graphite, plum, and dark cherry. The Marjan Simčič Merlot Opoka is full-bodied and highly structured with a long finish and huge tannins. The tannins turned Charine off a bit but there’s no doubt that this is high-quality juice that can compete with Merlot from anywhere around the world. 4.4/5

Jakončič Winery

Brothers Aljoša and Mitjia of Jakončič (pronounce Yahk-on-chihch) Winery are producing classically styled wines that are chiseled and balanced. They are carrying on the work of their father Igor Jakončič who headed up a local cooperative winery during Yugoslavian times. Their winery is located on the edge of Kozana. It sits on a ridge and boasts spectacular vineyard views.

Igor Jakončič is in his 70’s, but he is still fit and bright and rides a flashy sports bike. However, it’s Aljoša Jakončič and Mitjia Jakončič who are now running the cellar. Their property includes 15 hectares of vineyards and they produce a little over 90,000 bottles per year—most of which are sold in restaurants. The wines are divided into the basic line and the reserve line Carolina, which is named after Igor’s mother.

During our week in Slovenia, the wines of Jakončič surprised us the most because we hadn’t heard much about them. The winery is famous in Slovenia for their Bordeaux Blend called Carolina Red as well as their entry-level Cabernet Sauvignon, both wines are top sellers domestically.

Sales manager Matjaž Zagradišnik spent the afternoon walking us through the Jakončič’s portfolio. All of the wines showed well, especially the wines from the Carolina line. The Jakončič Carolina Rebula stands out as a clean, crisp expression of Rebula. This wine is perhaps my favorite non-skin contact Rebula along with the Marjan Simčič Rebula Opoka.

Matjaž also let us taste two vintages of the winery’s top wine, the JakončičCarolina Select. It is a Merlot made in great vintages from old vines that are nearly 80 years of age. The wine is highly coveted and has a waiting list. Recently released vintages of the Carolina Select are 2001, 2006, and 2008.

The Jakončič Carolina Select 2006 is one of our favorite wines of 2017 thus far. A rich, dense, and concentrated Merlot that went through two years of aging in barrel and seven years in the bottle before release.

The tasting was capped off with a bottle of 1986 Jakončič Carolina Belo: a blend of Chardonnay, Rebula, and Sauvignon Blanc that was still fresh after 31 years. It’s always a thrill for us to taste well made, aged white wine. Thanks to Aljoša for opening it for us.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Jakončič Mosaic Brut NV

This is 100% Rebula made in the classical method and aged on the lees for two years. Oil, pine, biscuit, and green apple with a touch of oil. Very fine bubbles that persist into a long finish. For an entry-level wine (and especially a sparkler), the Jakončič Mosaic Brut is a remarkable effort. The bead of bubbles is of Champagne’s quality and the wine still retains the flavors of Rebula. 4.0/5

Jakončič Carolina Rebula 2013

Aged for two years in oak and nearly two years in the bottle. White pear, green apple, fish oil, and the right amount of toastiness. The Jakončič Carolina Rebula is flinty and oily on the palate with a long finish. The texture is great and the barrel integration is seamless. This smells and tastes like Rebula with layers of complexity from barrel aging. This is the first vintage of this wine and it won a Platinum medal at the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards. 4.4/5

Jakončič Carolina Select 2006

Merlot aged for two years in oak and seven years in the bottle. The aroma of the Jakončič Carolina Select is a killer with graphite, cedar, black cherry, and tobacco flavors. It’s a big wine with a slow and sensual finish. It’s both powerful and elegant on the palate. Bright fruit and fresh acidity, it can stand up to any of the world’s great Merlots. 4.8/5

Jakončič Carolina Bela 1986

The Jakončič Carolina Bela is a staple label in the Jakončič’s portfolio and 1986 was the first vintage of the wine. A blend of Chardonnay, Rebula, and Picolit. Flavors of elderflower, dandelion, diesel, apricot, almond, and marzipan. Creamy and tangy at the same time. Balanced and big at the same time. A classic, this wine tastes incredibly young and still has a lot of life left. 4.7/5

Check out our video on Marjan Simčič and Jakončič

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Cover photo courtesy of Marjan Simčič website.
Thanks to Marjan Simčič and Jakončič for their time during a busy part of the year.
The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

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Kabaj and Movia: Slovenian Wines with Big Personalities

DR MATTHEW HORKEY — Tue, 24 Oct 2017 19:33:13 +0000

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After finishing our book Cracking Croatian Wine, we decided to make a week-long tasting trip through Goriška Brda, Kras, and Vipava Valley. Our trip through Western Slovenia yielded many gems and exceeded our already lofty expectations.

The quality of winemaking in Slovenia is outstanding and several producers are on par with some of the world’s best. Kabaj and Movia are two examples. Both are located in the Goriška Brda which is an extension of the more famous Collio region of Italy (it actually should be the other way around since Goriška Brda has significantly more vineyard area than Collio).

Goriška Brda has become an epicenter of amber wine and minimal intervention wine production and these two producers are among the most famous in the area. They have both developed good export markets and are led by big personalities.

Kabaj Winery

Kabaj winery started when winemaker and Frenchman Jean Michel Morel met his wife Katja Kabaj. After marriage, they decided to bottle wine from the Kabaj estate instead of selling their grapes. The decision paid off. In 2016, Kabaj was named the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Wineries of The Year for the third consecutive year.

Kabaj is located near the village of Dobrovo, Slovenia. Jean Michel orchestrates the production of 100,000 bottles of wine per year from 15 hectares of vineyards. Kabaj has only one line of wines: there is no premium or entry-level line. Jean Michel doesn’t make fresh wines, all of his whites are left on the skins for at least two days and aged in oak for a minimum of two years. The reds and his wine made in Georgian qvevri (amphora) are aged for a longer time. These wines are available around the world and offer great value and a fine introduction to amber wines, or better known as orange wines.

Kabaj was the first winery that we visited during our weeklong trip in Slovenia. Jean Michel met us at the door and immediately poured us a glass of his bubbly—a charmat (Prosecco method) sparkler named San Lurinz. After talking with Jean Michel for a few minutes, we realized that he’s a straight-shooter, a no-nonsense kind of guy.

Jean Michel talking us through his portfolio at Kabaj.

Jean Michel took us down to his cellar and started opening bottles. We spent around four hours tasting through his entire lineup, including some archive wines and a few unreleased wines. One surprise was the 1994 Kabaj Tokaj (Tocai Friulano), which is considered to be a special vintage to the winery. The wine was made before Jean Michel opted to make wines with skin contact. It was still fresh and Riesling-esque, a testament to Tocai Friulano’s potential to age.

Jean Michel’s whites were excellent across the board. There was no letdown in the lineup. All the wines were of exceptional quality. The Kabaj reds surprised us with their pleasant balance of fruity and earthy notes. But what showed the best was the Kabaj Amphora 2008. It won’t be on the market for at least another year, but it’s something worth seeking out.

These wines offer great value for money. Some are available in the USA market for under USD 20. When we asked Jean Michel about this, he replied with a smirk, “I’d take more money for my wines but nobody wants to give it to me!”

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Kabaj Beli Pinot 2013

Find or Buy on wineandmore.com

Pinot Blanc macerated for two weeks and matured for two years in oak. Flavors include dried pineapple, dried apricot, with a touch of caramel. The Kabaj Beli Pinot has some bite and a smooth mid to end palate transition. It feels bright and fruity the whole time in the mouth, which is quite a feat for an amber wine. This is a great introduction for newbies to the macerated white wine world. 4.2/5

Kabaj Luisa 2011

Two weeks on the skins and made of five grapes that were co-fermented (Chardonnay, Malvazija, Rebula, Tocai Friulano, and Sauvignon Blanc). The Kabaj Luisa was aged for two years in the barrel. This is a complex, big-bodied white wine. Smoke, musk, dried pineapple, dried apricot, red berries, and earth emerge from the glass. The fruit is ripe and has some bite. The wine has a long finish with white tea-like astringency. 4.3/5

Kabaj Amfora 2008

Not yet released. This is made from mostly Rebula with a touch of Malvazija and Tocai Friulano. It spent one year in amphora and one year in a large oak cask. Brown in color and full of dark cedar, dark chocolate, cognac, dried fruits and red berry flavors. It is similar to Georgian Rkatsiteli: big tannins with a bright, tangerine finish. The Kabaj Amfora is for hardcore wine geeks and for those seeking out this type of wine. It’s a showstopper. 4.6/5

Kabaj Merlot 2012

A matured red wine that spent four years in oak. Nose of rubber, dark cherry, chocolate, mud, and green veggies. A medium-bodied Merlot with strong tannins. Good balance between earth, veggies, and fruit. This needs more time in the bottle to show its true colors. 4.2/5

Movia Winery

The Movia estate sits above Brda in the town of Ceglo. Owner and winemaker Aleš Kristančič is the eighth generation who has resided in the estate. He has 21 hectares of vineyards and produces around 120,000 bottles per year. His winery is just a few hundred meters from the Italian border. In fact, Aleš owns vineyards in both Italy and Slovenia.

This was the one producer we knew a great deal about before we arrived in Slovenia. We had previously tasted a few of his wines prior to visiting. The Movia Lunar 8 2008 is one of our favorite wines of 2017 thus far. We had tasted several other Movia wines prior to our visit and they were all impressive, which made visiting them a no-brainer decision. Our expectations were sky-high and thankfully they were met.

Aleš is a bright, enthusiastic guy and a true romantic. He was working in the cellar preparing for the harvest but managed to spend an hour with us. In between presenting his wines, he kept running back and forth between the tasting terrace and his cellar. We didn’t spend a lot of time with Aleš but his energy was invigorating. You can see his intensity and focus while decanting his Movia Lunar 8 2007 in the video below.

We got the chance to taste some older vintages of his Movia Lunar and Movia Veliko Belo (Great White). However, the wine that intrigued us the most was the sparkling wine.

Movia Puro is a methóde traditionelle made from Rebula (Ribolla Gialla). Most sparklers we have tasted from this grape have left us wanting more. The Movia Puro is a different animal. It’s smooth, nutty, and retains the flavors of Rebula. Charine wantsea few cases of this wine to keep on the lees and open year after year to see the development.

After we left, I looked at Charine’s iPhone to see if there were any pictures to use for this article. She had taken only a handful, so I asked her why she didn’t take more pictures. She simply responded, “I was enjoying myself too much.”

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks

(You can find out more about our scoring system on the START HERE page.)

Movia Veliko Belo 2004

Find or Buy Movia wines at wineandmore.com

Aged four years in French oak. The Movia Veliko Belo is a blend of Rebula, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Flavors include petrol, lemon, cotton candy, peach, and white pepper. Beautiful notes of age including forest floor and a touch of mushroom. It’s a macerated white wine with some tanginess and sandy tannins in addition to a long finish. 4.4/5

Movia Lunar 8 2007

Made of 100% Rebula. Full of tangerine, rose petal, and orange peel flavors. Bright and explosive citrus fruit upfront and full bodied in the mouth. With a long finish, it’s a bright and clean amber wine. The Movia Lunar 8 has a nice bite and it is a wine you can really chew on. The Movia Lunar is made by placing whole berries into a special oak barrique and allowing fermentation to start on its own, it’s then bottled during the full moon. 4.7/5

Movia Veliko Red 2008

Mostly Merlot with a little Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is bright on the nose with cedar, forest floor, earth, and red fruit flavors. Low in alcohol at 12.5%. Good palate presence without being over the top. It’s also elegant and tangy. The 2008 is the current release of the Movia Veliko Red. 4.5/5

Movia Puro 2010

You can see in the video below how unique this wine is.

The Movia Puro 2010 is a blend of Rebula and Chardonnay presented upside down because it’s still on the lees. The Puro is a Methóde Traditionelle sparkler. Flavors of yeast, dried apricot, marzipan and very fine bubbles. Crisp tanginess like Fanta Soda and a long finish. It’s a geeky and classic wine at the same time and is something that is presentable to all kinds of wine lovers. 4.3/5

You May Also Enjoy

Slovenian Wine: Atimo 2014 By Filip Koletnik
Amber Wine: Čotar Malvazija 2002
15 Amber Wines (Orange Wines) to Try in Croatia
Our video about Kabaj and Movia

The finest selection of

Slovenian

wines available at:

Shipping is available EU-wide and to the UK.

Check out Wines Available in the USA.

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Thanks to Jean Michel Morel of Kabaj and Aleš Kristančič of Movia for their time during harvest period. The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

The post Kabaj and Movia: Slovenian Wines with Big Personalities appeared first on Wine Travel.

See You in Serbia #Winelover Trip

EXOTIC WINE TRAVEL — Thu, 19 Oct 2017 19:38:40 +0000

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We had a fantastic time at the (Facebook) #winelover’s See You In Serbia trip. Having spent nearly six months in the country, we consider ourselves rather familiar with Serbian wines. Because of that, we oscillated between “Let’s go. I’m excited!” and “Meh. I’m not sure if we will see, taste, or learn anything new.” In the end, we committed to the trip because “Of course there’s always something new to learn and experience.” But the ultimate determinant was the friendships: to show support for an initiative that our friends work so hard for and take the opportunity to know the #winelover community. And we’re glad we participated as we were rewarded in more ways than one.

Tomislav Ivanović, Mirjana Maksimović, Igor Luković, and Dušan Jelić did a remarkable job of organizing the trip for a large group of discerning wine lovers. Over the course of five days, #winelovers from all around the world got to taste Serbian wines from nearly 50 producers.

BYOB Dinner

All #winelover trips usually start off with a BYOB dinner, and this trip was no exception. The dinner was held at Steak & Wine with Dejan Živkoski, President of SERSA – Serbian Sommelier Association, as the host. All attendees brought at least one bottle of wine to the dinner. For us, it was almost a civic responsibility to share Croatian wines. We chose a Tomac Amfora 2008 and a Križ Plavac Mali 2015 to share with the group.

There were many outstanding wines that night, but the highlights were the many bottles of Hungarian Furmint and Tokaj wines that Daniel Ercsey, Koltai Piroska and Sue Tolson from WineSofa shared with us. And the “wine of the night” for us was a Paolo Bea Sagrantino from Montefalco Secco Pagliaro 2009 that Rowena Dumlao Giardina from Apron and Sneakers brought (photo below).

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 18, 2017 at 12:20pm PDT

Negotin Region

East Serbia is home to what we believe is Serbia’s best area for red wine. The journey to Negotin from Belgrade is tediously long. We started the day in Belgrade at 7:30 AM and came back at 1:30 AM. While many people grumbled about the long bus ride—having been to the region—we felt it was vital for the group to visit Negotin.

You can mouse over the picture below and play the video.

On the Aquastar Maxim ferry that took us through the Iron Gates gorge on the Danube River. Romania on one side, Serbia on the other, and wine lovers from all over the world on board.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 18, 2017 at 2:18pm PDT

The day started with a cruise ride through The Iron Gates, a gorge on the Danube River. The Iron Gates acts as a border between Romania and Serbia. At 2,860 meters, the Danube River is Europe’s second longest river and flows through 10 countries. During the ride, we passed through the narrowest point of the river. Here’s a look at that point.

The gorge is also home to a sculpture of Decebalus. As the last king of Dacia, he fought against the Roman emperors to preserve the kingdom’s independence. At over 40 meters in height, the sculpture is the tallest rock sculpture in Europe.

After the boat ride, we arrived at Matalj Winery. The proprietor Nikola Mladenović Matalj hosted 10 wineries from East and Southeast Serbia at his winery. The #winelover attendees all had their list of favorites, and many from the group walked away impressed with the quality, if not potential, of Serbian wines. We took personal delight in the fact that the Matalj Kremen Kamen impressed many wine lovers.

Excellent example of Vranac and a common favorite among the #winelover people at the tasting. Lots of oak influence but well integrated into the wine: it was fruit first, then secondary profile, and only a sign of tertiary notes in this 6-year-old wine. With its high acidity and tannins, this is a candidate for longer aging. Even with 15% alcohol, it has enough fruit and extract to go some distance.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 19, 2017 at 3:57am PDT

Our surprise of the day was the fresh Chardonnay by Bukovo Monastery; the wine had a floral-accented profile along with fruit power. Their wines are made by superstar-winemaker Radovan Djordjević (owner of Podrum Čokot). Many people from the group also enjoyed the Vinarija Raj Game (Gamay) and the Aleksić Armanet (Vranac).

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 13, 2017 at 3:48pm PDT

The night ended with a trek up to the old cellars of Rajac. While not everyone appreciated the one-kilometer, uphill hike, we got a chance to taste some romača (homemade) rakija and wine, which softened the four-hour bus ride back to Belgrade.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 13, 2017 at 3:49pm PDT

Prokupac Day

September 14 is International Prokupac Day. Our trip included passes to the annual Prokupac Conference organized by Wine Identity. The conference consisted of four workshops that were delivered at a breakneck, yet efficient manner. The conference was headlined by Master of Wine Caroline Gilby.

90-people strong class on #ProkupacDay.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 14, 2017 at 8:25pm PDT

The class on the aging potential of Prokupac by Tomislav Ivanović caused a stir among the crowd. Tomislav presented several labels and vintages from Vino Budimir, including Budimir Triada, Budimir Svb Rosa, and Budimir Boje Lila. As the workshop showed, while there might not be examples of Prokupac (yet) that show enough fruit power to undergo decades of aging, those wines can definitely develop well in the short and medium term.

Two wines that also impressed us were the Čokot Radovan 100% Prokupac 2015 and the latest 2015 vintage of Ivanović No 1/2 (50% Prokupac, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot). It’s no surprise since these two producers, along with Budimir, are among the top wineries in the Župa Valley—the spiritual home of Prokupac.

One example that caught our attention was a white wine made from Prokupac. The Milanov Vinarija Prokupac Belo (White) showed that this grape might be capable of making pleasant Blanc de Noirs wine. Other new producers of red Prokupac that stood out to us included Vinarija Grabak and Vinarija Yotta.

The Exotic Wine Travel team has always been fond of Prokupac, and we believe that it has the potential to shine on the international platform; so it was exciting to witness the reactions from the #winelover group. The remarks were mostly positive. However, there was a clear divide between people who think that Prokupac wines should be blended with international grapes and others who like it as a varietal wine. Regardless, many concurred that the grape is capable of making good wines.

Wines From Šumadija and Vojvodina

The third day included a field trip to Šumadija, a wine region in Central Serbia. The first stop was Aleksandrović Winery, one of the first three privatized wineries that appeared in Serbia after the Soviet period and also one of the biggest producers in Serbia. The rest of the afternoon saw us making stops at The Kings Cellar in Oplenac and Despotika Winery.

We enjoyed tasting with the #winelover group, which consisted of wine professionals, winemakers, wine importers, writers, bloggers, and staunch wine lovers. It’s always eye-opening and humbling to taste wine with people with extensive and varied experience. Here’s a snap of the group at Aleksandrović. Thank you Sharon Parsons from Spaswinefood for the photo.

Our stop at The King’s Cellar provided a look at the history and lives of King Alexander and Queen Maria. While we’ve never found pleasure in drinking their wine, the visit offered a brief look into the history of Yugoslavia and the Šumadija region. We followed up with a visit to Despotika Winery, where eight wineries from Central Serbia presented their wines.

The Church of Saint George in Oplenac offers a stunning interior of 3500-square-meter mosaics. The Jesus on the ceiling is the largest piece.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 19, 2017 at 12:49am PDT

Many people found the wines from Virtus agreeable with their palates; the newest vintage of its Marselan was a popular favorite with its full body, deep color, high level of extract, and excellent price-quality ratio. Several of the whites from Despotika also impressed the group, including an off-dry Morava with piercing acidity. The Janko Zavet Stari (Bordeaux Blend) and Radovanović Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve also received a fair share of votes. While there were many excellent producers present, we were disappointed that the wines from Cilić weren’t there.

Here’s a shot of Despotika‘s vineyards at sunset.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 15, 2017 at 4:33pm PDT

The group headed back to Belgrade and we concluded the day with a gala dinner at The Square in downtown Belgrade. The restaurant is located in Square 9 Hotel, and it’s often touted to be one of the best dining spots in the city. The wines of Vojvodina (North Serbia) were showcased, and the Bijelica Saga 2016 stood out to many people. Indeed, we think this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is perhaps the best fresh white wine in Serbia right now.

Biodynamic and Orange Serbian Wines

We finished the trip with a morning tasting of biodynamic and amber wine / orange wine from Serbia. Even though the modern wine industry is fairly young in Serbia, there is a progressive movement for minimal-intervention wine. There were five producers present at the tasting Bikicki, Dukay-Sagmeister, Imperator, Kovačevic, and Maurer.

Several people enjoyed this tasting the most out of all the ones in our program.

Oskar Maurer is probably Serbia’s most well-known producer as his wines are available at at least 10 Michelin-starred restaurants in the world.

Oskar also helps make the wine at Bikicki, a new producer that crafts a light and delicious macerated Pinot Grigio and a late-harvest Traminer among others.

The newest vintage of Riesling from Imperator drew many positive responses as well.

Dukay-Sagmeister stole the show that morning. The dry Furmint received rave reviews in addition to his elegant red made from Kadarka. Many people bought several bottles of Dukay-Sagmeister‘s wines.

Kovačevic was somewhat neglected at the tasting. Perhaps it was because there was no one from the winery to represent their wines, or maybe it was because their wines do not follow minimal-intervention farming.

Furmintis because it’s botrytis Furmint. 😂😂😂 Absolutely stunning Serbian dry Furmint and the best discovery from last night’s Wine Jam event. The noble rot flavors, such as honey and cotton candy, are present on the palate and show only the slightest presence on the nose. What’s stunning is those flavors are mere ‘afterthoughts’–so light-footed that they, in fact, highlight the varietal characteristics: the Furmint’s primary flavors and acidity march out straight from the textbook. Overall, it’s a really nuanced wine. We have to re-taste and probably enjoy a whole bottle to fully comprehend this wine. Yea, thankfully, we managed to buy a bottle!

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 8, 2017 at 8:14am PDT

The People of #Winelover

Romania was never high up on our priority list of “exotic wine places” to explore because of the lack of an active motivation or an experiential hook. Recently, one of my best friends had a swindler-related, near-violent experience there. The limited Romanian wines we tasted also failed to impress us (although we are certain that there are excellent Romanian wines).

More than 10 Romanians attended the #winelover trip, and they offered us a window into a place that we were unfamiliar with. They were warm, funny, and enthusiastic, and we bonded during the five-day trip. Now it looks like we might have to make a trip to Romania in 2018!

Special thanks to Alexandra Sabotnicu Serban, Silviu Serban, Serban Sincai, and Simona Sincai for making us love Romania even before we’ve met it.

Today marks the end of the #winelover trip in Belgrade. We are so lucky to meet so many new friends during this trip, and some of them have left us hooks to visit their countries.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Oct 16, 2017 at 9:36am PDT

Another wonderful person we met was Manuella Webber-Witt, a Brazilian making wine in Germany. On the last day, we got the chance to taste her Riesling from Pfalz. It’s a Qualitätswein with brilliant acidity and crystalline fruit flavors. All the best to Manuela as she works on making her wine a commercial product!

Everyone else on the trip touched us in one way or the other. There were a lot of laughs on this trip including Giannas Krassaki who overslept and missed the entire first day of the trip (he is not in our group photo below). Thanks to everyone who made this trip so special for us. The enthusiasm and passion that the #winelover group displayed are what make these trips so special. Thank you Luiz Alberto of The Wine Hub for the photo below.

We look forward to meeting all of you, current and future members of #winelovers, on the next trip!

The finest selection of

Serbian wines

available at:

Shipping is available EU-wide and to the UK.

Check out Wines Available in the USA.

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Do you want to try Serbian wines?

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Serbian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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You May Also Enjoy
Articles: Serbian Wine
Videos: Serbian Wine – YouTube Playlist
More photos and updates about the #winelover trip in Serbia can be found on our Facebook and Instagram.

Check Out the Websites of Our #Winelover Members
Carol Lopez-Bethel’s Swirl Wine Consulting
Christina Portz’s Just the Bottle
Dušan Jelić’s Wines of Balkans
Mirjana Maksimović’s Žena i Vino (in Serbian)
Piroska Koltai’s Wine a’More Travel
Razvan Stoenescu’s Povești cu vin (in Romanian)
Sarah May Grunwald’s Taste Georgia
Tomislav Ivanović’s Vinopedia

The ideas expressed in this article are personal opinions and are not associated with any sponsors or business promotions.

The post See You in Serbia #Winelover Trip appeared first on Wine Travel.

Amber Revolution: Orange Wine Now Gets A Voice (And Book)

CHARINE TAN — Thu, 28 Sep 2017 07:00:26 +0000

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After writing about the history of orange wine and reviewing them for the last five years, Simon Woolf is finally taking the leap into authorship. Amber Revolution: How the World Learned to Love Orange Wine is a 250-page, full-color book that shares the history of orange wine (sometimes also called “amber wine”, “macerated white wine”, and “skin contact white wine”) and how this style of wine was rediscovered in the 1990s. The book also includes conversations with pioneers—like Joško Gravner and the late Stanko Radikon—and profiles of 180 top orange wine producers in 20 countries worldwide, along with over 100 luscious shots from photographer Ryan Opaz.

“My ultimate goal is twofold. First, to create a really exciting book that makes you want to read it cover to cover, and second, to create the go-to reference work for orange wine—the book I looked for back in 2011, and just couldn’t find.”

Simon Woolf

Kickstarting the Amber Revolution

This book is the result of over four years of research that brought Simon to Friuli (Italy’s orange wine frontier), Slovenia, Georgia and beyond. It will be the first book to tell the full forgotten story of orange wine. Coffee table-worthy yet deeply engaging like a novel, Amber Revolution is beautifully illustrated and filled with practical tips on how to buy, enjoy, food-match, and age orange wine—making it an essential ‘wine bible’ for any wine lover, sommelier, retailer or producer who loves orange wine.

The Amber Revolution’s Book Trailer

The Kickstarter campaign for the book was launched on 21 September, and within 48 hours, the project had crossed the halfway mark of its target—a sure sign that this book is timely and aptly addresses the demand of the capricious wine market.

Conversations with Simon J Woolf

Award-winning writer, natural wine expert, and Decanter contributor Simon J Woolf was very kind to offer us his time for an email interview. In this interview, Simon starts off with his subject of expertise, orange wine, and later moves on to tackle some Proustian questions about himself. These questions aim to reflect Simon’s thought process and what piques his interest, which in turns illustrates why the Amber Revolution should matter to us.

I believe that in order for us to fully appreciate someone’s creative output, it is important to first get to know the creator. In the short time that I’ve known Simon, I’ve considered Simon an unpretentiously candid person with sparkling humanity. When I got news of the book, I was delighted—not merely because I love amber wine, but also by his decision to take the challenging route of self-publishing.

Orange wine, amber wine, natural wine, and oxidative wine. What are their differences?

Orange wine and amber wine are two names for the same thing—winemakers in different parts of the world have different preferences, although “orange wine” is definitely the most popular name we have at the moment, like it or not.

It’s important to point out that “orange wine” refers to a winemaking technique (long skin maceration of white grapes during fermentation), whereas “natural wine” is a much broader, more philosophical term referring to any kind of wine made with minimal intervention in the vineyard and the cellar. Not all orange wines are natural wines—and certainly not all natural wines are orange, many are red, white or rosé!

Oxidative wine is another category, I guess in this we could include things like the Jura voillé wines, Vin Jaune, Maderia and some sherry styles. For me, classic orange wines (eg: such as those found in Friuli Collio) should not be especially oxidative in nature.

A significant number of orange wine producers are also minimal-intervention, ‘natural wine’ producers. Are there any reasons for that? Do skin contact and minimal-intervention winemaking go hand in hand?

Yes, they tend to—macerating white grapes is best done without any yeast or other additions, and it’s a labor-intensive, even risky way to make white wine. Producers attracted to this traditional method tend to be the smaller more artisanal ones—ergo, natural or minimal intervention producers.

Day 6, Project orange. She’s going, finally! #orangewine #douro

A post shared by Simon J Woolf (@themorningclaret) on Sep 17, 2016 at 6:38am PDT

Are there specific grapes that are more suitable for making orange wine?

Grapes with thick skins and lots of flavor compounds to extract—Ribolla Gialla in Friuli being the most classic, the “don” of orange wines if you like. But aromatic varieties (Gewürztraminer, Muscat) also work very well. As do classics like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Anything with high acidity is normally in with a fighting chance!

What do you value most in your favorite orange wines?

Electricity, beguiling complexity and textural character.

A post shared by Simon J Woolf (@themorningclaret) on May 12, 2017 at 6:41am PDT

Orange wine can be a polarizing subject. Do you have tips for people on how to educate consumers who are new to orange wine?

In my experience, consumers without prior knowledge are often more open to the style. It’s people in the trade, or people with some wine knowledge who tend to suffer more from preconceptions. It’s often best to think of orange wines more like red wines, that can help!

Why are you publishing a book about orange wine now, and what is your ultimate goal for this project?

Because the world is crying out for a book that unravels the secrets and the misconceptions behind orange wine. I see articles popping up almost daily, where people are getting excited about the style, but sometimes completely without really understanding what and why it is.

My ultimate goal is twofold. First, to create a really exciting book that makes you want to read it cover to cover and second, to create the go-to reference work for orange wine—the book I looked for back in 2011, and just couldn’t find.

What’s your biggest struggle when researching orange wine?

The fact that winemaking as a craft has an almost entirely oral history, there’s very little written down about techniques and practice over the last few centuries.

What has shaped your point of view in wine?

A sense of adventure, a lifelong belief that organic or biodynamic agriculture is the only way to feed the planet and the realization that some of the world’s best wines are obscured from view, almost unknown and barely understood.

What is your happiest moment in your wine career?

The day Amber Revolution is published and I hold the first copy in my hand!

What aspects of the wine industry frustrate you the most?

Close-mindedness, inability to see that the wine world is changing, whether we like it or not.

Do you have a muse?

Not really. Once upon a time, it might have been my cat, who sadly died.

What are your guiding principles at work?

Accuracy, honesty, transparency, eloquence, respect, professionalism.

What is your secret vice?

A very occasional American Spirit. (Not really that secret!)

I heard you are quite the cook. Who would be your ideal dinner party guests, and which three dishes and three wines would you serve them?

I could give a clever answer like “Stravinsky, Monica Galetti and Paul Giamatti”, but the truth is the best guests are my greatest and oldest friends, who love good food and wine just as I do. I don’t think there is any perfect menu, but if budget, seasonal availability and culinary technique were no object, I might attempt:

1. Cold or warm (depending on the season) borscht, with a trickle of sour cream and fresh dill, served with a Roig Boig pet nat.
2. Lobster Ravioli served “in brodo”, with Elisabetta Foradori’s Fontanasanta Nosiola 2014
3. Beef Wellington with sauteed cavolo nero and bottarga on the side, and to pair with it, Dario Prinčič’s Favola 2008

(I don’t tend to do deserts, I’m very lucky to live with a talented pastry chef and anyway it messes with the wine pairings too much!)

Modelling my new Apron & happily making walnut gnocchi. They tasted glorious but disintegrated into mush in the pan!

A post shared by Simon J Woolf (@themorningclaret) on Jan 15, 2017 at 7:47am PST

What do you value most in your friends?

Healthy sense of the ridiculous, willingness to debate forcefully, enjoyment of good food and wine.

Besides wines, what is your most treasured material possession?

Art, or maybe my vinyl collection! Which is also kind of art.

How would you like people to remember you?

As someone who did things a bit differently, but always from the heart and fuelled by true passion.

Amber Revolution:
How the World Learned to Love Orange Wine

You can order the book on Amazon.

Simon Woolf is the perfect voice for this project. He’s spent years traveling, researching, inquiring, and learning what’s under all that soil of life experiences and choices. He’s visited hundreds of producers who make orange wine and written about it on his website and other established publications.

Amber Revolution is a self-published, crowdfunded book, which means it requires support from all of us who care about orange wine or the collective progress of the wine world. Whether your interest in wine points you to mere sensory pleasure, history, human-driven stories, or wanderlust, you’ll find something interesting in this book.

More About Simon J Woolf
Simon J Woolf is an award-winning English wine and drinks writer, currently clinging to mainland Europe in Amsterdam. He is somewhat obsessed with orange wines and is considered to be an expert on the developing natural wine niche. Simon is WSET educated and began his writing career in 2011 by founding The Morning Claret – an online wine magazine specializing in artisanal, natural, organic and biodynamic wines and related issues.

Simon is a columnist for Palate Press and contributes regularly to Decanter and Meininger Wine Business International. He’s also written for Punch Drink, Jancis Robinson, timatkin.com, Harpers online and Catavino.net amongst others. He is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Orange Wine Recommendations
Krauthaker Kuvlakhe: Amber Wine from Slavonia, Croatia
Amber Wine: Škegro Krš Orange Žilavka 2015 from Bosnia-Herzegovina
Gravner and Radikon: Italian Wines Without Compromise
Tsitska-Tsolikouri Amber Wine from Imereti, Georgia

You May Also Enjoy
Chatting with: Wine Writer Simon J Woolf, by Les Caves de Pyrene
Hugh Johnson Accepts Orange Wine Challenge, by The Drinks Business
Winners at the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards 2019, by Decanter

Disclosure

This interview was conducted over email. All answers are provided by Simon, and they have not been edited in any way. However, we’ve switched the language of this article from UK English to US English to remain consistent with the rest of Exotic Wine Travel’s content. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.
All photos courtesy of Simon Woolf.
Special thanks to Drew DiMatteo for sharing his thoughts on orange wine with me.

The post Amber Revolution: Orange Wine Now Gets A Voice (And Book) appeared first on Wine Travel.

Fruška Gora: The Innovative Serbian Wine Region

DR MATTHEW HORKEY — Thu, 31 Aug 2017 08:32:56 +0000

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North Serbia is home to what is perhaps the most experimental wine region in the country. Ironically it is one of its oldest wine regions as well, a place where Marcus Aurelius ordered vines to be planted 1700 years ago. For modern producers, what is old is new again.

The Fruška Gora hill runs approximately 80 kilometers east to west and its highest point is 539 meters. It’s flanked to the north by the Danube River. Most of the hill lies within Serbia’s borders, but a tiny portion of the western end is in Croatia. The low-lying Fruška Gora stands out like a sore thumb in the pancake-flat province of Vojvodina. It is technically located in the Sremski Wine Region, but many locals simply refer to the region as Fruška Gora.

Fruška Gora was the first wine region that we visited in the entire Ex-Yugoslavian region. We stayed in the cellar town of Sremski Karlovci in the late winter of 2016. The town is on the eastern end of the hill and filled with small, family cellars. We spent a few days going from cellar to cellar and came away unimpressed. Most of the wines were oxidized, rustic, and not very good. The one positive was that we got a chance to taste Bermet for the first time.

To be fair, we weren’t plugged into the Serbian wine scene at that point in time. That trip did yield a few great moments like tasting from the barrel at the well-regarded Belo Brdo and eating at Kovačević winery – one of our favorite Serbian restaurants.

In March of 2017, we returned to Serbia. We stayed in the capital of Belgrade for a few months tasting the new vintages and discovering new gems. During those few months, we took several day trips to Fruška Gora. Our old conceptions were shattered. We were shocked to find many clean, high-quality, and innovative wines being made on the hill.

Garage Wineries

There are several small wineries on Fruška Gora producing excellent juice. Arguably the most successful at the moment is Bjelica. Miodrag Bjelica produces wine in his attached garage. Miodrag is producing one of Serbia’s finest barrel-fermented Chardonnays and one of the top sparkling wines. Both wines are labeled Barbaroga and have fascinating labels.

Bjelica winery (Fruška Gora, Serbia) should be a familiar name if you’ve followed our Instagram or Facebook for awhile. The Saga (Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon) bottling is arguably our favorite white wine from Serbia. Unfortunately the Babaroga Chardonnay didn’t show up as well during our first tasting. That has changed as we retasted it on Saturday. The toastiness has settled down better and the Babaroga Chardonnay now possesses this big and stunning attack all the way from the front to end palate. It’s still a little premature for consumption but is showing great potential for a few years of aging and fantastic development. Also, check out the label designs of the Graffiti bottling in this picture. The design changes every year.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 23, 2017 at 8:30pm PDT

The labels aren’t all smoke and mirrors, however. Bjelica produces our favorite white wine in all of Serbia named Saga – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It has a beautiful smokiness to it with a taut, acidic core.

Chichateau is another garage winery with owner/winemaker Đjorđje Stojsić. It’s in the heart of Fruška Gora and focuses on the classical varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc. Đjorđje produces less than 15,000 bottles of wine out of his garage. His mother also makes some mean apple pie!

We don’t drink much rosé. We don’t like rosé much. Yet everything about this Chichateau Pink Punk 2016 seems to work its way to our hearts. We are especially fond of the typefaces, the tactile off-white label, and the enclosure. The presentation is spunky and iconoclastic. The taste is redolent of a cheerful summer, go-to-the-swimming-pool rosé but with a more ready-for-the-table seriousness. A blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Interestingly, it smells a lot like a fresh Pinot Grigio with its notes of lemon, pear, white peach, and spearmint. A strawberry characteristic echoes in the background. On the palate, it’s marked by zesty acidity, striking structure, and remarkable salinity. We can see why this is one of the most popular rosé in Serbia. Chichateau produces about 15,000 bottles/year out of a garage, using only estate-grown grapes. It’s located on the southern slopes of Fruška Gora. If you’re in Serbia, it’ll be worthwhile to check out the winery and/or its wines.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 20, 2017 at 2:45am PDT

One of Chichateau’s most exciting wines is their rosé named Pink Punk. It’s light, crisp, and incredibly easy to drink. It’s a true blush rosé meant for summer sipping. Đjorđje also makes a solid red wine name Fabula Mala, which is a traditional Bordeaux Blend. His reserve red named Fabula Lagum is made only in good years and very exciting. I got a chance to taste the 2012 vintage from the bottle and 2015 from the barrel, both were well-made reds that compete with Serbia’s best.

Chichateau’s wines are now available for purchase via wineandmore.com

Our second bottle of 2015 Chichateau Fabula Mala. Pairing done with beef & bean chili. This appears much less oaky than the first. Drinking well now but can definitely knit and soften after another year in the bottle. Beautiful violet and rose, along with the usual fruit aromas. Modest intensity, depth, and length. We really enjoy this as a food wine and are inclined to put it in the same league as Matalj Kremen and Cilić Cabernet & Merlot.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 28, 2017 at 4:30pm PDT

Another garage winery that caught our eye was Tri Međe i Oblak. The winery is located on the jagged border between Serbia and Croatia. The winery is named after the three border crossings that the owner has to make just to get to his vineyards. Tri Međe i Oblak made an interesting white wine from Grašac (known as Graševina in Croatia and Welshriesling around the world). They also grow and make wine from the red grape Vranac. It’s odd to see Vranac outside the Mediterranean climates of Montenegro and Macedonia, but Tri Međe i Oblak says the grape is doing well. Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to taste it.

The Conventional Wineries

Fruška Gora has the vineyard space to support several large wineries. Molovin, Kovačević, Ilić-Nijemčević, and Erdevik wineries all have the vineyard holdings and capacity that make them much larger than the aforementioned garage wineries.

The largest independent winery in Serbia, Kovačević, calls Fruška Gora its home. They produce close to one million bottles of wine every year and their Chardonnay is one of Serbia’s best selling wines.

Even at that scale, they produce some interesting stuff. Kovačević is experimenting with orange wines / amber wines produced both in wood and in Georgian qvevri (buried amphora). We had a chance to taste two macerated wines, one made from Grašac and one from Riesling – they were both very impressive. After the tasting, we went upstairs to eat at the superb restaurant and taste some archive and reserve wines, including a very impressive aged Riesling.

Our biggest surprise on Fruška Gora was a fairly new project named Ilić-Nijemčević. We were introduced to their wine by our friend Mileta Popović who runs the blog Serbian Wine Guide. Mileta treated us to a bottle over lunch. The label gave us cause for concern at first but once we tasted the wine, all doubts melted away. The Ilić-Nijemčević Crveno Vino is predominantly made of Gamay and it is fruity, balanced, and food friendly.

It seems odd that a Gamay-based red can go well with a mountain goat dish, but it does! It helps that the wine probably has some Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend and the meat is surprisingly not too gamey. The wine is red fruit flavor dominated with good texture, paired with lean goat meat cooked in kaymak (a cross between clotted cream and cream cheese), it’s a beautiful combination for a cold afternoon.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Mar 27, 2017 at 2:57am PDT

Less than one week after tasting the wine, we were off on a press trip to Ilić-Nijemčević. It is an old cooperative winery that was purchased by two families. They own their own vineyards and are already producing solid wine. Their whites and two rosé wines stand out in addition to their Gamay based wine.

Beautiful day in the Fruška Gora wine region of Serbia. We’re on a press trip to Ilić-Nijemčević winery.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 1, 2017 at 12:51am PDT

Another interesting winery that has taken over an old cooperative is Erdevik Winery. It’s named after the village where it is located. They have a huge facility, a skilled winemaker, and beautiful vineyard holdings.

The buildings look old and rundown from the outside, but inside it is another story. Equipped with top-of-the-line equipment and oak, this winery is looking to push the quality barrier of wines for Fruška Gora. Their Sauvignon Blanc and two Rosé wines are already getting praise from the local press. The most exciting wine for us is their Omnibus Lector, a barrel-fermented Chardonnay that shows, dare I say, Burgundian traits. Erdevik wines are available for purchase at wineandmore.com

Every country that is attempting to re-acquire their lost wine culture need the types of wines that these producers provide. Wines that taste good, are technically sound, and affordable. We’re looking forward to seeing the progress of these wineries in the coming years.

Serbian Natural Wines

Serbia has an ancient winemaking tradition but in a way, but it is in the process of reacquiring its wine culture after the breakup of Yugoslavia. It’s a young industry that has been focused on quality-driven wines only for the last 15 years. But there is a thriving, underground, natural wine movement. The hub of this movement in Serbia is Fruška Gora.

The main motivation for us to attend yet another wine salon in Belgrade last weekend: to taste the wines of Oskar Maurer. Oskar is a famous mentor, leader, and figure of the natural wine movement in Serbia. The Maurer wines are hard to come by in Serbia as most are exported. We were told that these wines are so well-received in other parts of the world that they are listed by 12 different Michelin-starred restaurants across the globe.

A post shared by Exotic Wine Travel (@exoticwinetravel) on Apr 23, 2017 at 8:41pm PDT

Currently, there are several natural producers on the market including Bikicki, Bojan Baša, Imperator, Maurer, and Sagmeister. We found this shocking for a country that has only 400 registered wineries and reinventing its wine culture. Bikicki wines are available for purchase at wineandmore.com

We’ve tasted wines from all of these producers. All the producers show enormous potential. The wines are very exciting and the local market is enthusiastic over this style of wine.

Final Thoughts on the Wines of Fruška Gora

We are the first to admit that we were wrong about Fruška Gora. That’s the beauty of the wine scene in these emerging wine regions. There are hidden gems all over the place, you just need to know where to look. We aren’t overly enthusiastic about the reds coming out the region – although we hope to be proven wrong again. The white wines and natural wines show the most promise as of now.

Fruška Gora has a lot going for it: proximity to the two biggest cities in Serbia, south-facing exposure, moderating influence of the Danube, and passionate winemakers. The sky is the limit for this place and we’re glad to have seen the foundation first hand.

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You May Also Enjoy:

Vinarija Doja: Serbia’s New Vinous Star
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Fine Serbian Wine On Belgrade’s Doorstep
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Serbian Grand Cru On The Slopes Of The Danube
Prokupac From South Central Serbia

Special thank you to Igor Luković and Tomislav Ivanović of Vino & Fino and Vinopedia for helping us schedule a few visits. Another thanks goes to both Dušan Jelić of Wines of Fruška Gora and Mileta Popović of Serbian Wine Guide.

Disclaimer: This article is based on our own opinions and is not associated with sponsorship or business promotions of any kind.

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