Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated.

Vina Laguna, Festigia Castello 2017

Vina Laguna is the largest producer in Istria but don’t let that scare you off. They use only estate-grown fruit and make wonderful wines at all price points. One of the Vina Laguna signature wines is the Festigia Castello. This is a red blend of the best fruit from the vintage, historically it’s a blend of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a wine that I buy and enjoy frequently thanks to its fine price point (<11 Euros in Croatia).

Learn more about Vina Laguna at 0:58 in the video.

I’ve had every vintage of this wine. While it’s always good, every time the wine leaves me wanting a bit more. This vintage is the first Festigia Castello that is a true Bordeaux blend. While 2017 wasn’t a great vintage in Istria for reds, head winemaker Milan Budinski loves this Festigia Castello. “I think it’s very good if not the highest quality considering the quality of fruit, complexity, and typicity,” he says. “I think it’s a very distinct style amongst other Bordeaux blends produced.”

The Vina Laguna, Festigia Castello 2017 is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. There are bright flavors of capsicum, sour cherry, tobacco, and capsicum. It’s an incredibly elegant wine with great wood integration. I always want a longer finish from the wines in the Castello line. This has that length guided by silky tannins.

This is the finest red wine from Vina Laguna that I’ve tasted. It trumps the excellent ‘LV’ Festigia Riserva 2015, Festigia Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, and Festigia Castello 2012.

Score: 91/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you want to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With many options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com, and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Vina Laguna Festigia Castello 2017 appeared first on Wine Travel.

These days, scores alone don’t sell wine. People want to meet the producers, hear their stories, and taste the wines. That’s why I’m a big fan of live tasting events and that’s exactly what Borjour is doing in Hungary.

This events company is located in Budapest and is dedicated solely to wine. Borjour is dedicated to connecting winemakers with consumers in a casual, non-intimidating environment. The organize about thirty events per year, the small tastings often have a theme or focus on a region. You can hear more in the short interview with co-founder Gábor Tóth below.

Hunting down Hungarian wines on the market in Budapest isn’t always the easiest thing to do. One thing I appreciate about Borjour is that they pull together producers from all over the country including lesser-known districts. If you’re visiting Budapest, these events are very helpful for those who want to explore Hungarian wine in depth.

In a fourth month span, I attended three of Borjour’s events. All of which were crucial in the research process of our upcoming book Discover Hungarian Wine. I attended their events around Sopron and Somló in addition to the big annual event, Borjour Magnum

Borjour Magnum

This year Borjour Magnum had over 200 producers pouring over 1000 wines. Charine and I spent eight hours tasting non-stop, finding the right Hungarian wines to recommend. Borjour Magnum consisted of the main tasting hall and a small, intimate upstairs room where producers could show one wine along with well-written tech sheets.

Bottles and producers from the biggest Hungarian wine regions (ie Villány, Eger, Szekszárd, Tokaj) are easily found in Budapest. However, there are excellent, small wineries found in the lesser-known Hungarian wine districts, that sell most of their wines locally or do not have the budget to market themselves properly. This is exactly what we were on the hunt for.

The show was great, although there were so many wines to discover. We wish Borjour Magnum lasted four days instead of one. We used Borjour Magnum to track down producers that are harder to find. Here are some of the most interesting wines from the show for us from either lesser-known regions or producers.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

White Hungarian Wine

• Font, Generosa 2018 – Kunság

Font is one of the biggest names from the Great Hungarian Plain (in addition to Frittman) and Generosa is a unique Hungarian white grape. This is loaded with white pear, lemon, and white flower notes. There’s plenty of acidity here to wipe the palate clean. It’s a delicious white from a region known more for its quantity than quality. Score: 88/100

• Barcza, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

The Barcza Juhfark is big, clean, and rich. It has notes of bananna, pineapple, sweet peach, and minerals. Multiple layers of texture with a long peppery finish. The wine is chewy with great length. Score: 90/100

• Zsirai, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

Zsirai has projects in Tokaj, Villány, and Somló. The Zsirai Juhfark is a full-bodied, modern Somló. There is a lot of oak here, but it’s done well. Notes of pineapple, melon, smoke, and flint. This has a lot going on and has the potential to age in the bottle. Score: 91/100

• Zelna, ‘Füred’ Olaszrizling 2018 – Balaton

The Zelna, ‘Füred’ Olaszrizling is a single vineyard white Hungarian wine. This Olaszrizling is full of pear, lemon, green apple, and flint flavors. Part of the cuvée was aged in oak, which gives the wine a richer mouthfeel than your average Olaszrizling. This is for people that love the minerally structure of Sancerre (France). Score: 90+/100

• Béla Borászat, Ezerjó – Generosa 2018 – Kunság

Béla Borászat is another quality producer in the flat plains of Hungary. Their Ezerjó – Generosa blend is white with generous notes of white peach, yogurt, and lemon peel. The wine has texture and fiery acidity that begs for food. Score: 88/100

Red Hungarian Wine

• Gal Tibor, ‘Pajados’ Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 – Eger

The Gal Tibor, ‘Pajados’ Bikavér Grand Superior is a single vineyard Bull’s Blood from Eger. It’s a blend of Kékfrankos, Kadarka, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Merlot. It’s got more layers and complexity than the Gal Tibor entry-level Bikavér (TiTi). This is a cool climate red with notes of cherry, strawberry, wet rock, and earth. Fine tannins and a silky finish. Score: 92/100

• Jammertal, Cassiopeia CF*C1H 2011 – Villány

The Jammertal, Cassiopeia CF*C1H is a premium red made mostly from Cabernet Franc with a small touch of Merlot. It’s a big, rich red that tastes younger than its age suggests. This is a fine red blend with notes of tobacco, black currants, black cherry, and pepper. Full and rich with ripe tannins. Score: 91/100

• Tűzkő, Cabernet Franc 2015 – Tolna

The Tűzkő estate is a project of the famous Italian family, Antinori. They produce good value-for-money wines in the lesser-known district of Tolna. The Tűzkő Cabernet Franc is a riper style with black olive, cherry, and pepper notes. The tannins are chewy and this could develop further with bottle age. All in all, it’s impressive for a wine that can be found in supermarkets. Score: 89/100

• Nador, ‘Falu’ Kékfrankos 2015 – Sopron

The Nador ‘Falu’ Kékfrankos is a lighter style of red. It has much more finesse than other examples from Sopron. Notes of cherry, pepper, strawberry, and fall leaves notes. The mouthfeel and flavors resemble a dense, New World Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied with soft tannins. Score: 90/100

• Garger Wachter, Kékfrankos Válogatás 2015 – Sopron

The Garger Wachter Kékfrankos Válogatás is an old-school style of wine. It’s made from a selection of Kékfrankos. There are flavors of tobacco, chocolate, dark cherry, and pepper. Full-bodied and smooth on the palate with round tannins. The medium finish holds it back a touch. Score: 89/100

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Hungarian wine articles

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Borjour provided complimentary admission to three of their tastings. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Our first stop to the Balkans four years ago was Serbia. We started our three-month romp through the peninsula in Serbia. Back then, our expectations of Serbian wines were low. The high quality of the wines instantly impressed us.

The possibilities for Serbian wines are endless thanks to its wealth of microclimates. For now, top producers focus on rich, red wines (thanks to the demands of the domestic market). Couple the mild continental climate with local demand ensures the surprisingly high quality of red Serbian wines.

Big Red Serbian Wines

In my opinion, the best red Serbian wines are made from Bordeaux varieties or are ‘Super Serbian’ blends of Bordeaux grapes and Prokupac. There are some gorgeous, medium-bodied varietal Prokupac wines. However, most examples lack subtleties and layers to be truly great (although they make for phenomenal everyday wines). Several producers are giving Syrah a go with pleasant results.

The regions I prefer for red Serbian wines are Negotin, Šumadija, and Beograd for Bordeaux blends. The Župa Valley is located within the Tri Morave region and is the spiritual home of Prokupac and ‘Super Serbian’ blends. In the north, the hill of Fruška Gora in Srem starting to churn out some delicious reds (it’s traditionally a white wine region). At the border with Hungary, Subotica has a number of producers working with the unique red grape Kadarka.

 

Red Serbian Wines Blind Tasted

Igor Luković, editor-in-chief of Vino & Fino put together a tasting of top-flight red Serbian wines. The eleven wines were all served blind. It gave me an opportunity to taste the latest vintages and get back up to speed with what’s happening in Serbia. Below are my favorite wines from the tasting.

 

 

Wine Recommendations

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Janko, Bifora 2016 – Beograd

The Janko, Bifora is a brand new wine in the portfolio. It’s made from Syrah grown just east of Belgrade in the village of Smederevo. There’s a lot of oak here but it works well with the dense fruit. Notes of blackberry, bacon fat, pepper, and oak. The tannins are fierce now but should soften and integrate well with time. Score: 89/100

• Bjelica, Graffiti 2017 – Srem (Fruška Gora)

The Bjelica, Graffiti was the biggest surprise to me. It is a blend of Merlot and Marselan from Fruška Gora. I haven’t been a big fan of past vintages, this is a big step up. The nose is pretty and refined with notes of violet, oak, red plum, and white pepper. It’s full-bodied with plenty of plush fruit upfront. I’d like a tad more complexity but that should develop with bottle age. Long finish with fine tannins. Score: 90/100

• Janko, Crveni Zapis Testament 2016 – Beograd

This vintage of Janko, Crveni Zapis Testament is made from 100% Merlot. I had this from the barrel years ago and am glad to see it’s showing well from the bottle. This wine shows development so enjoy it now. Tomato leaf, blackberry, earth, and cedar notes. It’s full, with rich black fruit and tangy acidity. Firm tannins just beg for food. Score: 90/100

• Radovanović, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2016 – Šumadija

The Radovanović, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is only made in good vintages. This is a relative value in the world of Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s an earthy Cab with notes of capsicum, tobacco, black currant, and earth. The wine has a silky mouthfeel and feels very refined. Savory and long finish with fine tannin. Score: 91/100

• Matalj, ‘Kremen Kamen’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 – Negotin

Find and buy Matalj wines here.

I’ve had every vintage of the Matalj, Kremen Kamen which is always enjoyable. Charine and I tasted this at the Balkans International Wine Competition in May 2019 and it showed great again blind. There’s a lot of wood here but also a lot of tobacco, black olive, black cherry, and plum. Intense fruit with fine-grained tannins and a long finish. This wine has a future in the cellar. Score: 93/100

• Temet, Tri Morave Crveno Reserva 2016 – Tri Morave

The Temet, Tri Morave Crveno Reserva is a brand new release from the winery. This wine received a gold medal in the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards. It’s made from Cabernet Franc and Prokupac. The wine is rich and savory with notes of blackberry, soy sauce, plum, and white pepper. There are many layers of complexity on the palate and the tannins are grippy. It would be interesting to see how this develops in the bottle over a few years. Score: 91+/100

Other wines tasted: Erdevik ‘Stifler’s Mom’ Shiraz 2016, Vinis Merlot 2015, Tri Oraha NV, Braca Rajković ’33’ 2016

The finest selection of

Serbian wines

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    Do you want to try Serbian wines?    

If you want to savor the exquisite flavor of Serbian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com. With many options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

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Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com, and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

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Serbian Wine Articles

Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Red Serbian Wines Revisited appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Gašper, Cabernet Franc Selekcija 2017

Goriška Brda, Slovenia is an extension of Collio in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy. It’s known as the premier region for Slovenian wine. The specialty of Brda (short for Goriška Brda) is orange wine, especially from the grape Rebula (Ribolla Gialla across the border in Italy).

There are some fabulous reds in Brda too, most of which are based off Merlot. The other Bordeaux grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc make cameos but are often used as blending grapes and not made into varietal wines. That’s what makes the Gašper, Cabernet Franc Selekcija unique.

Gašper is owned by Gašper Čarman. He is one of the most renowned sommeliers in Slovenia and is the founder of eVino, the biggest online Slovenian wine shop. Gašper producers his line of Slovenian wines in cooperation with the biggest cooperative in Goriška Brda known as Klet Brda. Gašper wines have been well received over the years but struck platinum with their Cabernet Franc Selekcija.

The Gašper, Cabernet Franc Selekcija 2017 is the first red Slovenian wine to receive a Platinum Medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards. This is an intense, full-bodied Cabernet Franc. It has a touch of funk that might make people believe it is French. Notes of black cherry, leather, funk, capsicum, and graphite. Weighty on the palate with light tannins. The intensity of the flavor on the mid-palate and finish are what stand out here. We’d like a little more tannin but overall, this is a beautiful wine.

Score: 92/100 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

We purchased this wine from Enozoik Shop in Croatia.

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Slovenian Wine Articles

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Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Every January there’s a gathering in Osijek dedicated to celebrating Croatian wines and the surrounding regions named WineOS. January 2020 marked the sixth edition of the festival. In addition to Croatian wines, there were selections from Hungary, Serbia, and Bosnia Herzegovina to taste.

Here are my biggest takeaways from this sixth edition of WineOS. These are grapes, wines, and styles you should seek out if you make it to the region.

Graševina

Graševina is the most widely planted grape in Croatia. It’s a grape that goes under a myriad of names including Olaszrizling, Italian Riesling, Welschriesling, Grašac, Laški Rizling, and more. The grape is Croatia’s most planted variety.

Kutjevo (Slavonia) is considered the spiritual home of the grape but there are also fine examples being made along the Danube in Baranja county and around the city of Ilok. The latter two areas give warmer, meatier examples with lower acidity while wines from Kutjevo show herbal and grassy notes.

 

Croatian Graševina is an ongoing story and the wines continue to improve. I generally prefer examples from Kutjevo where you can find everything from sparkling to botrytized sweet wines. The fresh examples of Graševina are wonderful with fresh seafood from the Dalmatian coast and come in at lower price points than other white Croatian wine staples like Malvazija Istarska and Pošip.

Wine Recommendations: Antunović Graševina 2018, Adžić Graševina 2018, Krauthaker Mitrovac 2018, Perak Mitrovac 2018, Kutjevo Degotho Graševina 2018, Belje Graševina 2018, Sontacchi Graševina 2019, Kolar Graševina 2018, Buhač Graševina Izborna Berba Bobica 2018

Continental Red Croatian Wine

The majority of Croatian wine production in Slavonia and the Danube is white but there are some delicious reds being made too. The Central European grapes Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) and Zweigelt may be best suited for the region’s climate but many producers still opt to give Bordeaux varieties and Pinot Noir a go.

 

The reds in this region continue to improve. At the moment, they offer the best bang for the buck as far as red Croatian wines go. I would like to see more of a focus on regional blends like the Feravino Miraz Cuvée, Enjingi Venje, and Iločki Podrumi Kapistrani Crni, all of which contain Frankovka and or Zweigelt.

There are several delicious, fruity reds made from Bordeaux grapes. In terms of varietla wines, there are a handful of fine Cabernet Francs, which makes me wonder why more producers don’t focus on the grape. Don’t miss the TRS Cabernet Franc if you can find it.

Wine Recommendations: Feravino Miraz Cuvée 2017, Krauthaker MERCS 2017. Iločki Podrumi Kapistran Crni 2018, Buhač Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Sontacchi Pinot Noir 2017, TRS Cabernet Franc 2016, Belje Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, Enjingi Venje Crno 2009

Bosnia Herzegovina

Surprisingly, my biggest takeaway at WineOS 6 wasn’t Croatian wine.

There were 12 producers present from Bosnia Herzegovina, all of them from Western Herzegovina. All of them were pouring their wines made from Žilavka (white) and Blatina (red). It was the first time I had such an extensive tasting of the wines since the Blaž Festival 2018.

I noticed a vast improvement in all of the producers present at the show, especially the examples of Žilavka. It’s a white grape with enormous potential and when I tasted through the samples a few years ago, almost everyone was using it to make simple, fruity innocuous whites. It seems like that is all in the past.

 

The newest vintages of Žilavka are full in body and have salty, savory notes with substantial texture. Some producers like Marjanović and Škegro macerate the grapes to extract even more flavor. Others that barrel ferment or barrel age their Žilavkas are dialing back on the oak, resulting in wines with more balance.

Wine Recommendations: Marjanović Žilavka Selekcija 2018, Vino Milas Žilavka 2018, Škegro Krš Orange Žilavka 2017, Vilinka X-Line Cuvée Red 2015, Brkić Plava Greda 2017, Carska Vina Blatina 2017

The finest selection of

wines available at:

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************

    Do you want to try Croatian wines?    

If you’re looking to savor the exquisite flavor of Croatian wines, look no further than wineandmore.com With an abundance of options from different winemakers, it’s easy to find exactly what your palate desires. Not sure which bottle is best for you? Try out one of their curated wine cases and discover the perfect vintage for any occasion!

************

Want to learn more about wine?

Are you ready to discover the wonderful world of wines? Come join us at wineandmore.com and let’s explore the incredible selection of delicious wines together! We can’t wait to share our passion for wine with you!

Thanks to WineOS who provided entrance and accommodation. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post WineOS 6: Croatian Wine & More appeared first on Wine Travel.

Tokaj might be the most famous and world-renowned Hungarian wine region. But ask a local what region they want to visit for a wine holiday and many will answer Villány.

Located in the south, Villány was the first region to begin the quest for quality after the fall of communism. They have worked hard to position themselves as the premier red Hungarian wine region (the contenders are Szekszárd, Eger, and Sopron).

Cabernet Franc or Villányi Franc?

The name of the game in Villány is Cabernet Franc.

During a barrel tasting session in 2000, wine writer Michael Broadbent declared “Cabernet Franc has found its natural home in Villány!” Since then, the region has focused on making the grape its signature variety. Wines made from Cabernet Franc that are of exceptional quality can be labeled “Villányi Franc” after inspection and passing blind tastings by the committee. These wines are often the signature bottlings from producers.

Cabernet Franc is so important that Villány holds an annual conference dedicated to the variety. I attended the 2019 “Franc & Franc” conference and had the chance to spend time with producers. It was my fourth time visiting the region over the last two years.

Classicus, Premium, Super Premium

In order to understand the wines, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the classification system.

Villány was the first region to earn a protected denomination of origin after communism in the early 1990s (even before Tokaj). In 2005, the region adopted a quality control system. If wines want to carry the Villány stamp they must meet specific criteria under the Classicus and Premium classification. In 2015, Villány added a third classification Super Premium which only applies to wines made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Wines from this new classification just started reaching the market.

• Classicus: This category covers most of the wines produced in Villány. All of Villány’s permitted varieties can carry this classification.
• Premium: This category contains those wines that meet rigorous criteria than those set for the previous category. All of Villány’s permitted varieties can carry this classification.
• Super Premium: This category is reserved for high-quality wines that are made of 100% Cabernet Franc. There are strict requirements, including yield restrictions and passing blind tastings. Super Premium wines must spend at least one year in oak barrels and another year in bottles before release and must be labeled as Villányi Franc.

Just to make things more confusing, wines in the categories of Premium or Super Premium are allowed to be labeled Villányi Franc. Classicus wines made from Cabernet Franc must be labeled Villányi Cabernet Franc.

This classification system is not a surefire guarantee of quality. There are beautiful wines that receive the Classicus label and some Super Premium wines that are marked by overuse of oak. There are also a number of extraordinary wines in the Premium category that cannot be considered Super Premium because they are not 100% Cabernet Franc.

Other Villányi Wines

Cabernet Franc may be the grape that the region hangs its hat on but Villány is no one-trick pony. There are impressive wines made from Bordeaux blends, Portugieser, Kadarka, Syrah, and Kékfrankos. In fact, the latter two grapes perform well in Villány. In my opinion, they may actually be the best two suited for the region. If you track down a Villányi Syrah or Kékfrankos, don’t hesitate to try it.

White wines are usually a disappointment in Villány, save for an occasional solid Chardonnay here and there. There is plenty of Olazsrizling planted in Villány but most of the wines produced from it are simple quaffers. Here are my favorite wines from the few days at the 2019 Franc & Franc.

Wine Recommendations:

• Lelovits Tamás, Villányi Cabernet Franc 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Lelovits Tamás is a small, family-run cellar. Their Lelovits Tamás Villányi Cabernet Franc has notes of black cherry, black raspberry, tobacco, pepper, and capsicum with judicious use of oak. It’s a riper Cabernet Franc but one that’s under control. The oak adds good tannin here, it’s an additive and not a detractor. Score: 90/100

• Bakonyi, Makar 2016

Péter Bakonyi is one of Villány’s brightest, young stars. The Bakonyi Makar is made from Cabernet Franc. This is ripe with flavors of black cherry, caramel, black olive, and earth. Full in body with a violet undertone and uplifting acidity. The tannins are firm but not aggressive. Score: 90/100

• Gere Attila, Fekete Járdovány 2016

Fekete Járdonvány is a pre-phylloxera grape variety that used to be widely planted in Villány. Now Gere Attila is the only producer who bottles it. This is not just unique but delicious. Notes of black raspberry, pepper, stems, and black tea. Almost like a blend of Syrah and Fetească Neagră, this is geeky and delicious. Score: 90/100

• Heumann, ‘Trinitás’ Villányi Franc 2016

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Heumann, ‘Trinitás’ Villányi Franc is made from Cabernet Franc. This has more of an old-world style to it, with plenty of charm. Notes of dried cherry, cappuccino, cedar, and chocolate notes. This is full-bodied and round with beautiful tannins. The only detractor here is that I’d like to see a touch longer finish, which would lift the wine to a big-time score. Score: 91/100

• Sauska, Cabernet Franc 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Sauska Cabernet Franc is simply a fine example of the grape. Notes of cherry, violets, and black olive are in this full-bodied Cabernet Franc with serious tannins. It reminds me of the examples from Tuscany and should do well in the cellar over the next ten years. Score: 90+/100

• Mokos, Villányi Franc 2015

The Mokos Villányi Franc is a super premium Villányi wine. For a big wine, it’s very pretty with notes of dark cherry, crushed rose petal, cedar, and tobacco. This is full-bodied, round, and might stand out in a Bordeaux tasting. Grippy tannins and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Weninger & Gere, Cabernet Franc Selection 2006

During a tasting of older Villányi Francs, the Weninger & Gere Cabernet Franc stood out the most. It’s one of the first Hungarian wine producers that impressed me and this wine has another ten years left in the cellar.

It’s not overly powerful on the nose but there are wonderful savory notes of mushroom, crushed tobacco, and mud on the palate. A core of dried dark fruit on the round and pleasurable mid-palate. Intensity on the finish with developed tannins. Score: 93/100

• Tiffán’s, Grande Selection 2011

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Edi Tiffán was one of the first producers in Villány to chase quality in the 1990s. When we visited the cellar, he opened a number of archive wines from his collection. The Tiffán’ Grande Selection is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It’s a developed red wine with notes of capsicum, tobacco, cherry, plum, and cedar. This has a core of sweet red fruit and sweet tobacco at the center. The nose is shy but the palate is concentrated and the tannins are firm. Score: 92/100

• Gere Tamás & Zsolt, ‘Várerdő-dűlő’ Villányi Franc 2012

The Gere Tamás & Zsolt, ‘Várerdő-dűlő’ Villányi Franc is a premium level, single-vineyard wine. Very traditional and old-world in style with plenty of savory flavors in addition to the dried cherry, mushroom, and leather notes. This is very complex, there are notes of bottle age and earth to accompany the fruit. Complex finish and developed tannins. Score: 91/100

• Bock, 70+ Cuvée 2017

Bock is one of the most known producers in Villány. Many of his premium wines have lots of oak and structure. The Bock 70+ Cuvée is exactly the opposite of that.

This is a blend of Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. There’s not a lot of wood here. It’s full of red fruit, graphite, fall leaves, and pepper. Medium-bodied and juicy with a low level of tannins. It’s fruity, fun, and delicious with a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Rácz Miklós Tamás, ‘Diósviszló’ Poudre Noire 2017

Villány is generally not the best region for Pinot Noir. That hasn’t stopped this tiny, high-quality producer. It’s one of the best examples of the grape in Hungary.

The Rács Miklós Tamás ‘Diósviszló’ Poudre Noire is a very solid effort. There are notes of ripe raspberry, fall leaves, pepper, and violets. It’s medium-bodied with a silky mouthfeel. Very good Pinot Noir, it should age gracefully in the medium term – if you can be patient. Score: 90/100

• Csayni/Teleki, Kővilla Cuvée 2015

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Csayni Pincészet aks Château Teleki is one of the largest producers of Hungarian wine. That doesn’t mean that the quality is low though. The Kővilla Cuvée is a blend of Kékfrankos with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It shows ripe red berry fruits with pepper and a kiss of oak. The wine doesn’t show the greatest complexities in the world, but it does show impeccable drinkability and enjoyment. This is a fantastic bottle that delivers big-time value-for-money. Score: 90/100

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************

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The cover photo is courtesy of the Villányi Borvidék website. Thanks to Villány Borvidék for providing entrance and accommodation at Franc & Franc 2019. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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The Tasting Table Budapest is the kind of place that we wish existed in every wine country. Located on Bródy Sándor in the Palace District, it’s at the top of the list as a “must-visit” place in Budapest. Whenever we visit Budapest, Tasting Table is always our first stop.

Owned by the same team behind Taste Hungary, a leading food and wine tour company in the country, Tasting Table Budapest is a wine shop and wine bar. Stocked with over 200 Hungarian wine labels, it offers a diverse selection of Hungarian wines by the glass and in its tasting flights.

Walking down the stairs into Tasting Table unveils a nirvana for wine geeks. The walls of the stone cellar are lined with wine bottles, the tables are always full, and there’s a constant buzz in the air.

Thursdays @ Taste Hungary’s Tasting Table Budapest

Every other Thursday, Tasting Table hosts a Hungarian wine-pairing dinner. One local winemaker is invited to present his/her wines while the in-house chef, Tamás, makes magic with one small oven and stovetop. It adds up to an intimate evening.

I had a chance to attend three of these wine-pairing dinners last Autumn. Every meal consisted of 3-4 food courses and 6-7 Hungarian wines. The wine selection goes beyond basic labels and the food is prepared with intention and care. But what I enjoyed most about every wine dinner was the company.

Hungarian is a difficult language to grasp, so it’s refreshing to be in an English-speaking environment. Tasting Table attracts visitors from all walks of life and the dinners and tastings are conducted in English. I’ve met diplomats, writers, and travelers—all with interesting stories to share—at Tasting Table.

During one of the dinners, I shared a table with people from Sweden, Germany, Romania, Hungary, Britain, Italy, and America. We were all strangers, but thanks to the social lubrication, conversations and laughter flowed freely after a few glasses of Hungarian wine. After an hour, we were exchanging life experiences and contacts. I left the meal full, not just from the food but with the warmth that comes with making new friends.

Food and wine are powerful tools in human interaction. They break down barriers and get to the core of what we need, sustenance and connection. And every time I walk down the stairs into Taste Hungary’s Tasting Table Budapest, I know that I’ll get those things. If you have a few hours to spare in Budapest, do yourself a favor and reward yourself with the same experience.

Hungarian Wines from Thursdays @ Tasting Table:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Kovács Nimrod, Rhapsody, 2016 – Eger

Kovács Nimrod is one of the names to know in Eger. The Rhapsody is his entry-level Bikavér (Bull’s Blood). It’s a blend of Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. This is a sleek, medium-bodied red with flavors of cherry, earth, pepper, and a kiss of oak. This is an everyday type of red but for those who want more complexity, I suggest the Kovács Nimrod Superior, Grand Bleu, or NJK. Score: 89/100

• Kolonics, Nagy-Somlói Furmint 2017 – Somló

Somló is one of Hungary’s smallest wine regions and is known for making complex, barrel-fermented white wines. The region consists of tiny producers like Kolonics. The Kolonics Nagy-Somlói Furmint is barrel fermented. Notes of lemon, white pear, smoke, and flint, with plenty of texture and fiery acidity. For hardcore wine nerds, this is really enjoyable. Score: 89/100

• Jackfall, Villányi Franc 2016 – Villány

The Jackfall Villányi Franc is a riper Cabernet Franc with notes of black cherry, graphite, tobacco, and mocha. The fruit is countered with savory and earthy notes. Most people would guess this a Bordeaux blend, not a varietal wine. Big, ripe tannins. Score: 91+/100

• Samuel Tinon, Szaraz Szamorodni 2009 – Tokaj

Samuel Tinon is a Frenchman who moved to Tokaj. He’s known as a specialist in dry Szamorodni, a unique style of wine similar to Fino Sherry. There are notes of bruised apple, almond, dried apricot, and walnut. Full in body and high in alcohol. The acidity is sharp and the wine finishes with a combination of dried peach and mineral. This is a pure geek wine. Score: 90+/100

• Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000 – Tokaj

The beautiful thing about Tasting Table is they usually end their tastings and dinners with sweet Tokaji. Owned by the Vega Sicilia group, Oremus is one of the big names in the Tokaj region. This wine has really come along with notes of butterscotch, orange peel, dried apricot, and yellow peach. This is uber complex, concentrated, and rich. Layered with lots of flavors, fiery acidity, and a long finish. Score: 95/100

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Cover photo from Taste Hungary Website. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc Unfiltered 2017

Cabernet Franc is one of the most popular red grapes in Hungary. The Hungarian wine region of Villány has made Cabernet Franc its signature variety and thanks to that promotion, wineries throughout the country have had success growing and selling wines made from the grape. It’s grown in almost every Hungarian wine district.

Villa Tolnay is a property located in the Badacsony district of the larger Balaton wine region. It’s a region known for white wines although there are some standout reds being made there. The Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc is made with fruit grown on the Csobánc hill, which is volcanic in origin. It’s the top wine from the Villa Tolnay estate.

The Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc Unfiltered is a Hungarian wine that acts like an old school type of wine. The vines are grown from French cuttings and the wine is fermented spontaneously with native yeasts. This is more of an earthy red with notes of mud, cherry, raspberry, capsicum, and a touch of funk. Medium-bodied and smooth with a lot of texture, it tastes more developed than the age suggests. The tannins are firm and the wine has a lengthy finish. It’s a fabulous wine for stews and charcuterie.

This is different than many Cabernet Francs made in Hungary. It’s very reminiscent of an example from Bourgueil. If you’re a fan of Cabernet Franc from the Loire, this one is worth seeking out. It’s not a wine with a big future in the cellar, so drink up now.

Score: 90/100 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

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Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Villa Tolnay Csobáncz Cabernet Franc Unfiltered 2017 appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Domaine Ratron, ‘Clos des Cordeliers’ Saumur-Champigny Prestige 2017

We first bumped into winemaker Marie-Françoise Ratron during a Loire Valley Wines press trip in the Spring of 2019. During a dinner with the producers of Saumur-Champigny, Marie-Françoise’s energy and wine won us over. That evening, she poured us her entry-level red, the ‘Clos des Cordeliers’ Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Tradition 2017, which is fabulous in its own right.

We listened carefully as Marie-Françoise explained that the 2017 vintage was her first solo harvest and wine. Her passion came through in the glass. Our encounter inspired us to explore the Domaine Ratron portfolio in greater depth, especially the other bottlings from the Clos des Cordeliers.

The first mention of the Clos des Cordeliers goes back to 1630. The vineyard changed hands several times throughout the years before being purchased by the Ratron family in 1932. Mr. Sébastien Ratron represented the fourth generation of the family. He passed away unexpectedly in 2017 but Marie-Françoise continues the family legacy.

The Domaine Ratron, ‘Clos des Cordeliers’ Saumur Champigny Prestige 2017 is made from 55-year-old vines. It is a dense, dark, and extracted Cabernet Franc. There are notes of black cherry, blackberry, black olive, and deep earthy notes. The wine is full and silky on the palate. For a wine that didn’t see oak, this is incredibly complex. Chewy tannins guide the long finish.

If you want a rich Cabernet Franc from the Loire, this represents the region well.

Score: 91/100  (You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

This was a sample provided by Domaine Ratron. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Visiting an old friend. That’s what if felt like to revisit the Fruška Gora region and the Vojvodina Wine Show 2019 in Serbia. Fruška Gora was the first region Charine and I visited in the Balkans.

You can get a glimpse of our first visit below (thank goodness our videos have gotten better).

Fruška Gora is an 80 km long, low-lying mountain range that sticks out in pancake-flat Vojvodina, Serbia. Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus ordered vines to be planted on Fruška Gora in the 3rd century AD. Despite the long history of grape growing, Serbia’s winemaking suffered during the socialist times of Yugoslavia. All growers were forced to send their grapes to the state cooperative, where quantity (not quality) was emphasized.

Modern winemaking began to take shape on Fruška Gora in the late 1990s. The region is the most experimental in Serbia. There are white, red, orange, and sparkling wines being made on Fruška Gora. Everything from garage wineries to large-scale production to biodynamic farming can be found.

“Fruška Gora is not a huge region, but it does have a lot of different climates and soils”, says Igor Luković, editor in chief on the Serbian wine magazine Vino & Fino. “Fruśka Goa it is the wine district with the highest number of registered wineries in Serbia”, Igor adds. “There you can find crispy whites alongside juicy international blends, some exceptional orange wines, and rare indigenous grapes like Seduša.”

Fruška Gora is an east-to-west mountain range that hugs the Danube. Because of this, there is real potential for excellent wine growing. However, it’s still a young region (in the modern sense). Many producers are still figuring out who they are and where they want to go.

Unfortunately, all of this potential is not fully realized yet. Many producers still have to work on improving the quality of their wines, especially so they can command the relatively high-prices in a tough Serbian market. On the positive side, there is a handful of brands that keep raising the bar every vintage. Some of these producers are crafting brilliant wines.

Serbia has fantastic terroir and real potential for fine wine (especially with the local grape Prokupac and Chardonnay). Let’s see if Fruška Gora can lead the way. I look forward to continually follow their progress.

Wine Recommendations:

• Bjelica, ‘Babaroga’ Chardonnay 2018 

The Bjelica Babaroga Chardonnay is a barrel-fermented white with excellent oak integration. Bacon fat, melon, yellow peach, and yogurt. It’s creamy and rich in the mouth. This is structured and should improve with bottle age. The use of oak keeps getting better vintage after vintage with this producer. The Barbaroga shows the high potential of Chardonnay in Serbia. Score: 91+/100

• Zvonko Bogdan Cuvée No. 1 2017

New winemaker and a new level of quality for Zvonko Bogdan. This vintage of the Zvonko Bogdan Cuvée No. 1 eschews Frankovka. The 2017 is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Lots of cherry, spice, fall leaves, and earthy notes. Full-bodied with a rich texture and fine tannins. This has length and depth and should improve even more in the bottle. Score: 90/100 

• Vista Hill, White Reserve 2012

Vista Hill wines available here.

Vista Hill was formerly known as Molovin winery. The Vista Hill White Reserve is made from 100% Grašac (Welschriesling/Graševina). It’s a developed white and smells almost sweet. Notes of honey, marigold, baked apple, white apricot. Impressive length and texture thanks to the bottle age and a gingery finish. Score: 90+/100 

• Belo Brdo Marselan 2015

The Belo Brdo Marselan is aged in oak for 18 months. There are notes of strawberry, black raspberry, pepper, and earth. It has a velvety and seductive nose. This is tart and medium-bodied. It’s a food-friendly, peppery red. For a wine that is listed at 15% abv, the alcohol is not felt. Score: 89/100 

• Šijački, Seduša 2017

Šijački single-handedly revived the grape Seduša and are currently the only producer working with it. The Šijački is a cool and quirky wine aged in oak for six months. There are notes of black plum, mulberry, twigs, and pepper. It smells big and ripe but is surprisingly medium-bodied and elegant. Fine mouthfeel with slightly grippy tannins. Put this wine on the dinner table and watch the conversations start flowing. Score: 89/100

• Vinum, Frankovka 2017 

The Vinum Frankovka is made in small quantities but is worth seeking out. It’s aged for six months in used oak. The flavors include black cherry, fall leaves, pepper, and mushroom. Full-bodied and delicious, it is rich and elegant at the same time. Chewy tannins and a persistent and subtly complex finish. Score: 90/100

• Kovačević, Morava Amfora 2017

The Kovačević Morava Amfora is an orange wine, macerated for six months in Georgian qvevri (amphora) and aged in oak for one year. Bright orange peel flavors. Notes of yellow apricot, marigold, tangerine peel, and dried flowers. Very clean and well done. Full-bodied and tangy, the tannins are firm but not over-aggressive. It has a sensual texture and long finish. Clean and well done. Score: 91/100

• Bikicki, Uncensored 2017

Bikicki wines available here.

The Bikicki Uncensored 2018 won a gold medal for “Best Orange Wine” at the 2019 Balkans International Wine Competition. It’s made from Röter Traminer and spends seven days on the skins. It has notes of orange peel, peach, dried apricot, and yellow flower. It’s full-bodied and chewy. The tannins are a bit drying at the end. But it’s clean and well-done stuff. Score: 90/100 

• Quet, Italijanski Rizling 2012

Quet is the brand name of Fruškogorski Vinogradi. The Quet Italijanksi Rizling is made from Grašac (Welschriesling). This is a fresh wine, not made to age but it has come along well. There are notes of almond, apricot, dried lemon peel, and a touch of honey. Full and developed body, it has tingling acidity and hides the 14.5% alcohol well. Spicy finish. Score: 90/100

• Deurić, Aksiom 2016

The Deurić Aksiom is a blend of Probus (cross of Kadarka and Cabernet Sauvignon), Marselan, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. It’s a big-bodied red with fine tannins and notes of dark fruit, cherry, stems, tobacco, and graphite. It’s very much like an Alentejo red blend, unique yet familiar at the same time. Score: 89/100

• Tri Međe i Oblak, Vagabundo White 2018

This winery keeps improving vintage after vintage. The Tri Međe i Oblak Vagabundo White is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Bland and 40% Grašac. The Sauvignon Blanc is barrel fermented and the Grašac is made in stainless steel. There’s oak on the nose but it is handled really well. There are also notes of winter melon, white peach, yogurt, and lemon peel. Relatively full bodied white with texture. Long and spicy finish. Score: 90+/100

• Dukay-Sagmeister, ‘Kew’ Kadarka 2016

The Dukay-Sagmeister ‘Kew’ Kadarka is an elegant and pretty wine. Small plot, less than 1 hectare on Fruška Gora. This is a lighter colored red wine with notes of dried strawberry, red raspberry, soil, and pepper. The nose is strikingly similar to good Pinot Noir. Silky mouthfeel, almost Pinot Noir-like at first. The flavors fill the palate and the high acidity keeps this wine juicy and soft. Long and spicy finish. Score: 92/100

• Chichateau, Fabula Mala 2017

Find or buy at wineandmore.com

This is a fabulous vintage of this entry-level red from Chichateau. The Chichateau Fabula Mala is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a rich and unfiltered red that overdelivers in its price category. Notes of black cherry, bacon fat, capsicum, tobacco, and pepper. Full bodied and rich with several layers of texture and a big spike of fruit before the long finish. Score: 90+/100

• Trivanović, Optimus 2018

The Trivanović Optimus is a fresh, single-vineyard white wine made from Grašac Beli. This isn’t overly complex but it is clean, well-made, and delicious. It should be the standard for fresh Grašac wines. Notes of melon, white pear, lime, and a touch of yogurt. Crisp and juicy, this is simply a pleasure to drink. Score:88/100

• Erdevik, ‘Ex Cathedra’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Find or buy at wineandmore.com

I prefer the Erdevik ‘Omnibus Lector’ Chardonnay a tad more, but the Erdevik ‘Ex Cathedra’ Sauvignon Blanc is also worth noting. This is a barrel-fermented white wine that has fantastic oak integration. This is a riper (but not obnoxious) Sauvignon Blanc with notes of peach, kiwi, and apricot with a touch of grass & yogurt. Full-bodied without the sharp acidity that can bother many drinkers. Score: 89+/100

Our travel and accommodation were provided by Udruzenjevinara-Srem/Fruška Gora. Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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