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For better or worse, 2020 is a year all of us will ever forget. This last year saw the fear of one singular thing affect the entire world. My life was deeply altered, like countless others around the world. That’s not to say everything was terrible, I have a lot of things to be thankful for.

Reliving 2020 isn’t something that most of us want to do but there were some highlights for me. Here’s the 2020 Rewind for Exotic Wine Travel.

Licking Our Wounds: Discover Hungarian Wine

We closed 2019 with an epic failure.

For years, we’ve had the idea of creating a guide book for Hungarian wines in the same spirit as our past books. The previous books we wrote took significant investment, so I opted to go with Kickstarter. After months of research, the Discover Hungarian Wine Kickstarter launched in November 2019.

Unfortunately, I made the wrong choice to set a high bar on Kickstarter and our goal wasn’t reached – meaning we got zero capital from it. Despite the setback, I still had my heart set on relaunching a Kickstarter in 2020. It’s simple, I love Hungarian wines and believe in them.

The first wine shows I attended in 2020 included WineOS in Osjek (Croatia) and Borjour Magnum in Budapest (Hungary). The former included a vertical tasting of one of Hungary’s most respected winemakers and the latter is the largest indoor tasting in Hungary. After discovering new and exciting wines at Borjour Magnum, I felt optimistic about relaunching our Kickstarter in the Spring of 2020. Unfortunately, 2020 had different plans in store for me.

Millésima Blog Awards 2020

A few weeks after the show, I was selected as a finalist in the Millésima Blog Awards 2020. It was my fourth year applying for the competition. I was chosen as a finalist in 2019 but fell short of winning. The story of this year’s edition was different, I was selected as the winner of the Public’s Choice Award for my article “German Pinot Noir: Is It Worth The Hype?“

The grand prize is a week-long trip to Bordeaux. Because of the situation this year, the trip was canceled and still hasn’t been rescheduled. My elation ultimately ended in disappointment.

Back to Sardinia

My last trip before the world went crazy was Sardinia, Italy. Over the years, I’ve been to the island several times per year and have really fallen in love with it. This trip was to judge in my second International Vermentino Competition. The days were filled with plenty of wine and even more delicious food.

 

After the competition, the organizers arranged two short trips to the western part of the island to explore the unique wines known and Vernaccia di Oristano and Malvasia di Bosa. These are two of Italy’s smallest DOCs and are wines that are aged under a thin film of yeast known as the floor. They’re not fruity, they are savory and nutty which confuses most wine drinkers. If you’re looking for a new experience, try one of these wines.

 

COVID & The Zagreb Earthquake

I returned to Zagreb, Croatia for the annual Vinart Grand Tasting. It’s the most prestigious tasting in Croatia. The show featured several amazing masterclasses, including a vertical tasting of Croatian wine icons. We did some PR for the event, helping to bring foreign journalists to the show. After the press trip through some of Croatia’s wine regions, the world went into lockdown over COVID19.

Our travel plans came to a grinding halt and we found ourselves ‘stuck’ in Croatia.

On March 22, just a few weeks after the national lockdown, we were woken at about 6:30 in the morning. The horizon seemed distorted as I looked out the window. Running out to the balcony, I saw dust rising from downtown Zagreb, I thought that a bomb went off.

It was the biggest earthquake Zagreb experienced in over 140 years. Thankful there were few casualties and the structural damage to our rented apartment was minimal. I put together a quick YouTube video of our reactions after the earthquake and it quickly became the most viewed video of the year on the Exotic Wine Travel channel.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Our friend Michel Blanc is the director of the Fédération des Syndicats de Producteurs de Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He brought us to the region in 2019 and this year, arranged for multiple producers to send us their latest vintages for several articles on our site. We spent several months during the Croatian national lockdown, tasting through the latest vintages and writing them up.

You can click the links below to see the articles:

• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Best Buys

• White Châteauneuf-du-Pape

• Finding Value in the Southern Rhône

I Want To Break Free

Travel restrictions in Croatia started to loosen in the Spring. After being stuck in a small Zagreb apartment for over three months, it was time to get some much-needed fresh air. I arranged a stay in Istria, at the fabulous Villa Famiglia. Our friend Vedran of ChinChin joined us for the month.

It was a hedonistic month of wine and food (especially fresh seafood). Our social media postings made quite a stir. We received constant requests from our friends to visit, both local and abroad. Friends from Zagreb, Switzerland, and even Greece joined us at some point during that month. I put on a few extra kilograms that I’m still trying to take off.

We took the opportunity to revive our Cracking Croatian Wine series on YouTube. During the month-long stay at the Villa Lavanda, we shot our fifth episode about Istria, Croatia. You can relive that entire month with us in the video above.

Book a stay at the luxurious Villa Famiglia HERE.

The Land of Diversity?

After the month in Istria, we returned to Zagreb for a laid back summer. I spent most of the summer tasting and writing up articles, especially a big report on wines from The Spanish Palate. In between tasting and typing, we both took the opportunity to take part in our third video with the Zagreb tourist board.

I found it funny that the casting company made an effort to hire people of different ethnicities. In today’s world, it’s more and more important to be inclusive and show diversity. However, Croatia is not the most diverse country in the world, so seeing Charine, myself, and a few other people of color in the video gave me a good laugh.

Beachside Bumming

Sometimes you need a helping hand.

Out of the blue, Mirena Bagur of Croatian Premium Wine reached out to us. We had met in person but only briefly. Without reservation, she offered her holiday home in Gradac, Croatia. During a time where I was floundering a bit, this was a huge respite.

We took the time to produce our 15th episode of Cracking Croatian Wine. This edition focused on the seaside region of Komarna. It’s Croatia’s newest appellation and is fully certified organic. The wineries are already crafting good wines and have the potential to push the boundaries of Plavac Mali and Pošip. Our video, Cracking Croatian Wine: Komarna became the most viewed video in our series and the second most viewed video on our channel overall.

The real highlight of the month was staying at the Villa Lavanda. Its patio faces the sea, which is only 10 meters (30 feet) away. Gradac is located on the Makarska Riviera and there are towering mountains behind the villa. The only comparable beachside location I’ve been to is Krabi, Thailand.

 

I treasured every morning coffee, every dip in the sea, and every sunset. It’s a place with incredible energy and is very soul-soothing. I hope to bring my entire family there in the future to stay.

Book a beach holiday at the Villa Lavanda HERE.

 

Welcome to Patreon

As the Autumn rolled in, we headed back to Zagreb and I started our Patreon page. Patreon is a crowd-sourcing site based on the concept of Patronage. It’s simple, artists create with the financial help of dedicated fans.

My goal was to create a community of wine lovers who drink adventurously. Through the support of our patrons, I can continue to produce these articles and videos on our YouTube channel. The community is small now but I aim to ramp it up in 2021. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

Back to the Beach

Mirena was kind enough to let us come back and stay at the Villa Lavanda in the late Fall to early Winter. Her generosity deeply touched me. Gradac is a beachside, holiday town and during Summer the beach was full of buzz and noise from children playing in the water. During this period, the town was empty and we heard nothing but the waves every night. Soaking up the seaside air every night is an experience I’ll take with me for the rest of my life.

In total, I spent three and a half months at the Villa Lavanda. It’s the longest I’ve spent at a single residence over the last six years. To help repay Mirena’s kindness, I did a few chores around the house. It gave me great pleasure to do simple things like trimming the hedges and sealing the shutters for the winter.

There aren’t enough words to express my gratitude to Mirena Bagur!

 Book a beach holiday at the Villa Lavanda HERE.

Coravin: Our New Partner

During this time, we also became partners with Coravin. A wine access device that we love and have used for years. If you’re not familiar, check out the video below. You can use our discount code CCROF4DGN5 for 10% off all Coravin systems and accessories (like refill capsules). It doesn’t cost you anything extra, you get a discount, and it helps support our work.

Slovenian Wine Aplenty

I’ve am a huge fan of Slovenian wine and try to visit the country every year. This country may have the highest wine quality among the Ex-Yugoslavian countries. I wasn’t able to visit this year. Instead, I’ll be working on several articles about the best Slovenian wines I tasted in 2020.

The article was originally slated to be a medium-sized article but the response from producers was incredible. I had the chance to tastes the latest vintages and even make a few new discoveries. Stay tuned to our site for three upcoming articles on Slovenian wines. The first should be released in early 2021.

Looking Towards 2021

For me, last year wasn’t all fire and brimstone. There were a few bright spots, including the Exotic Wine YouTube channel, which had its best year. Five years into the channel, it’s still relatively small compared to bigger YouTubers out there.

I’ve posted videos every week for five years and there are some down periods where I think it’s pointless and silly. There have been times where I thought about throwing in the towel. Every time I think about giving up, something pushes me to continue. YouTube sent this summary a few weeks ago and it just boggles my mind that people took nearly 350,000 minutes out of their day to watch – it’s incredibly humbling.

This year, I will also become the main voice of Exotic Wine Travel. You will see reports and articles on this page but most of my focus will shift to YouTube. Please consider subscribing and I wish you and your family a safe and healthy holiday season. See you soon and let’s raise a glass for a better 2021!

Another Zagreb Earthquake(s)

*Update Tuesday, 29 December 2020

Just a few days after I originally posted this, I was woken on Monday, 28 December at 6:30 am. There was a second earthquake at the same time as the one back in March. This Zagreb Earthquake measured at 5.2 on the Richter scale and didn’t create much damage.

One day later, on 29 December a 6.3 magnitude earthquake rocked Zagreb. Originating in Sisak, around 50 kilometers away, there was extensive damage. I am fine, the building was shaking which was scary but no structural damage to my apartment. Let’s hope that other in Zagreb and Sisak were as lucky. Let’s move on to 2021!

You Might Also Enjoy:

2019 Rewine: Best Wine Memories 2019

2018 Rewind (video): Traveling the World for Food and Wine 2018 Rewind.

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The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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These days, scores alone don’t sell wine. People want to meet the producers, hear their stories, and taste the wines. That’s why I’m a big fan of live tasting events and that’s exactly what Borjour is doing in Hungary.

This events company is located in Budapest and is dedicated solely to wine. Borjour is dedicated to connecting winemakers with consumers in a casual, non-intimidating environment. The organize about thirty events per year, the small tastings often have a theme or focus on a region. You can hear more in the short interview with co-founder Gábor Tóth below.

Hunting down Hungarian wines on the market in Budapest isn’t always the easiest thing to do. One thing I appreciate about Borjour is that they pull together producers from all over the country including lesser-known districts. If you’re visiting Budapest, these events are very helpful for those who want to explore Hungarian wine in depth.

In a fourth month span, I attended three of Borjour’s events. All of which were crucial in the research process of our upcoming book Discover Hungarian Wine. I attended their events around Sopron and Somló in addition to the big annual event, Borjour Magnum

Borjour Magnum

This year Borjour Magnum had over 200 producers pouring over 1000 wines. Charine and I spent eight hours tasting non-stop, finding the right Hungarian wines to recommend. Borjour Magnum consisted of the main tasting hall and a small, intimate upstairs room where producers could show one wine along with well-written tech sheets.

Bottles and producers from the biggest Hungarian wine regions (ie Villány, Eger, Szekszárd, Tokaj) are easily found in Budapest. However, there are excellent, small wineries found in the lesser-known Hungarian wine districts, that sell most of their wines locally or do not have the budget to market themselves properly. This is exactly what we were on the hunt for.

The show was great, although there were so many wines to discover. We wish Borjour Magnum lasted four days instead of one. We used Borjour Magnum to track down producers that are harder to find. Here are some of the most interesting wines from the show for us from either lesser-known regions or producers.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

White Hungarian Wine

• Font, Generosa 2018 – Kunság

Font is one of the biggest names from the Great Hungarian Plain (in addition to Frittman) and Generosa is a unique Hungarian white grape. This is loaded with white pear, lemon, and white flower notes. There’s plenty of acidity here to wipe the palate clean. It’s a delicious white from a region known more for its quantity than quality. Score: 88/100

• Barcza, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

The Barcza Juhfark is big, clean, and rich. It has notes of bananna, pineapple, sweet peach, and minerals. Multiple layers of texture with a long peppery finish. The wine is chewy with great length. Score: 90/100

• Zsirai, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

Zsirai has projects in Tokaj, Villány, and Somló. The Zsirai Juhfark is a full-bodied, modern Somló. There is a lot of oak here, but it’s done well. Notes of pineapple, melon, smoke, and flint. This has a lot going on and has the potential to age in the bottle. Score: 91/100

• Zelna, ‘Füred’ Olaszrizling 2018 – Balaton

The Zelna, ‘Füred’ Olaszrizling is a single vineyard white Hungarian wine. This Olaszrizling is full of pear, lemon, green apple, and flint flavors. Part of the cuvée was aged in oak, which gives the wine a richer mouthfeel than your average Olaszrizling. This is for people that love the minerally structure of Sancerre (France). Score: 90+/100

• Béla Borászat, Ezerjó – Generosa 2018 – Kunság

Béla Borászat is another quality producer in the flat plains of Hungary. Their Ezerjó – Generosa blend is white with generous notes of white peach, yogurt, and lemon peel. The wine has texture and fiery acidity that begs for food. Score: 88/100

Red Hungarian Wine

• Gal Tibor, ‘Pajados’ Bikavér Grand Superior 2016 – Eger

The Gal Tibor, ‘Pajados’ Bikavér Grand Superior is a single vineyard Bull’s Blood from Eger. It’s a blend of Kékfrankos, Kadarka, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Merlot. It’s got more layers and complexity than the Gal Tibor entry-level Bikavér (TiTi). This is a cool climate red with notes of cherry, strawberry, wet rock, and earth. Fine tannins and a silky finish. Score: 92/100

• Jammertal, Cassiopeia CF*C1H 2011 – Villány

The Jammertal, Cassiopeia CF*C1H is a premium red made mostly from Cabernet Franc with a small touch of Merlot. It’s a big, rich red that tastes younger than its age suggests. This is a fine red blend with notes of tobacco, black currants, black cherry, and pepper. Full and rich with ripe tannins. Score: 91/100

• Tűzkő, Cabernet Franc 2015 – Tolna

The Tűzkő estate is a project of the famous Italian family, Antinori. They produce good value-for-money wines in the lesser-known district of Tolna. The Tűzkő Cabernet Franc is a riper style with black olive, cherry, and pepper notes. The tannins are chewy and this could develop further with bottle age. All in all, it’s impressive for a wine that can be found in supermarkets. Score: 89/100

• Nador, ‘Falu’ Kékfrankos 2015 – Sopron

The Nador ‘Falu’ Kékfrankos is a lighter style of red. It has much more finesse than other examples from Sopron. Notes of cherry, pepper, strawberry, and fall leaves notes. The mouthfeel and flavors resemble a dense, New World Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied with soft tannins. Score: 90/100

• Garger Wachter, Kékfrankos Válogatás 2015 – Sopron

The Garger Wachter Kékfrankos Válogatás is an old-school style of wine. It’s made from a selection of Kékfrankos. There are flavors of tobacco, chocolate, dark cherry, and pepper. Full-bodied and smooth on the palate with round tannins. The medium finish holds it back a touch. Score: 89/100

You Might Also Enjoy:

Hungarian wine articles

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If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

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Do you want to learn more about Hungarian wine?

Once the world returns to normal, we will launch our Kickstarter for our fourth wine book Discover Hungarian Wine. Sign up HERE to learn how you can be one of the first to get a special edition, signed copy with a discount.

Borjour provided complimentary admission to three of their tastings. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Hungarian Wine: Best of Borjour appeared first on Wine Travel.

2017 is the inaugural vintage of Royal Tokaji’s Szamorodni as a staple of the winery’s portfolio. Before that, the winery had released a 2008 dry Szamorodni as part of its limited-edition “By Appointment” range.

“Over the past years increasing international demand and limited production have pushed the prices of our Aszú wines higher,” says Charles Mount, Managing Director of Royal Tokaji.” “We have also been able to harvest increasingly ripe ‘late harvest’ grapes. The sweet Szamorodni sits between our Late Harvest and our 5 Puttonyos wine as either an ‘everyday Aszú’ equivalent or a ‘special treat’ Late Harvest.”

Since the abolishment of 3 and 4 Puttonyos in Tokaj from the 2013 vintage onwards, there has been a gradual increase of Szamorondi wine made with higher percentages of botrytized grapes and bottled with higher amounts of residual sugar. Along with that comes higher prices. Today, Édes (Sweet) Szamorodni can cost up to €40 for a 0.5-liter bottle.

TASTING NOTES: ROYAL TOKAJI ÉDES SZAMORODNI 2017

The Royal Tokaji Édes Szamorodni 2017 came to the market in 2019. I had a chance to taste it for the first time in February 2020 at the Furmint Február tasting. With only seconds plus two rounds of taste-and-spit, this wine set an impression so pleasing that it had me searching for a proper date after the show.

The relatively high temperature in the summer of 2017 contributed to earlier ripening and onset of botrytis. Harvesting took place from October to early November. After pressing, the juice fermented in tanks, then aged in the barrels for a year before bottling.

Notes of honey, canned peach, lemon, and shaved walnut. The nutty development and vanilla enliven the bouquet. Excellent sugar-acid balance. Long, spicy extension. This wine has 135g/l of residual sugar, 7.2g/l of total acidity, and 11% alcohol, yet it never sits heavy on the round palate. At €10, this is an affordable introduction to the world of Tokaji Aszú berries. It delivers massive value for ready sippers and a cool journey ahead for the cellar-ready.  A wine I will come back for, time and time again. 

Score: 90+ points

Do you like our content?

If you like our articles and videos, we’d love for you to be a part of our community on Patreon. The support from Patreon helps keep the content coming and you access to behind the scenes content. It also gives us the chance to get to know you better. Check out the Exotic Wine Travel Patreon page by clicking the photo below.

FIND AND BUY ROYAL TOKAJI WINES ONLINE

For the month of May, you can use the code APMAY5 and get 5% off for wine purchases site-wide on Vivino.

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HUNGARIAN WINE?

Be part of our fourth wine book Discover Hungarian Wine. Sign up HERE to learn how you can reserve a special edition, signed copy with a discount.

Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Royal Tokaji Szamorodni appeared first on Wine Travel.

The Pinot Noir landscape is varied and hyper-global. Touted as ‘the heartbreak grape’, many winemakers around the world feel inspired to take on Pinot Noir’s demanding and finicky nature. And when a variety is grown in so many drastically different viticultural places, the question of varietal typicity becomes an open-ended question. Whether intentional or not: at Modri les Noirs, the question about Pinot Noir’s typicity was put on center stage.

THE SECOND EDITION OF MODRI LES NOIRS

Held at Hotel Kendov Dvorec (a member of Relais & Châteaux) in Idrija, Slovenia, Modri les Noirs is an annual wine festival dedicated to spotlighting Pinot Noir producers from Central and Eastern Europe. With only two editions under its belt, the second year of the event saw a healthy increase in exhibitors: from 15 to 32 producers from Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Serbia, and Switzerland.

EMERGING REGIONS FOR PINOT NOIR

When it comes to Pinot Noir, Slovenia and the Croatian Uplands—especially the Plešivica sub-region—are beginning to build favorable reputations, particularly for drinkers who prefer Pinot Noirs that are approachable on release. In Poland and Hungary’s Etyek wine region, cooler weathers yield markedly different Pinot Noirs that express dominant herbaceous notes and light to ultralight body. Some examples from Switzerland and Italy’s Alto Adige show softly spiced, fruit-led expressions. Then, there are also a few severely awkward examples that seem adamant about proving that Pinot Noir is anything but elegant.

Generally, Pinot Noir clones used in Slovenia, Serbia, Poland, Hungary, and Croatia are not unusual: predominantly Dijon and Italian clones with the occasional Swiss Mariafeld and German clones. These countries plus other lesser-known wine regions are beginning to make remarkable Pinot Noirs with a character all their own. Sure, Burgundy still produces some of the finest Pinot Noirs, but it’s no longer the only wine region that can tame the ‘heartbreak grape’. The dynamism in this part of the world is sure to motivate people to think beyond the Burgundian blockbusters and challenge the prevailing opinions on what Pinot Noir should be or can be. Here are the noteworthy wines at the show.

WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

Pinot Noir’s synonyms: Modri Pinot (Slovenia), Pinot Crni (Croatia), Pinot Nero (Italy)

• Korak, Pinot Crni Selekcija 2017 – The Uplands, Croatia

MH: 92+ points Korak Winery is one of the names to know for Pinot Noir in Croatia. The Korak Pinot Crni Selekcija 2017 is a beautiful darker Pinot Noir with black raspberry, oak, perfume, red plum, and pepper. Full-bodied and complex, this has nuances and layers on the palate. Firm tannins and a long finish.

• Tilia, Pinot Noir (White Label) 2017 – Vipava, Slovenia

MH: 92+ points The Pinot Noirs from Tilia are always earthy and savory. The 2017 Tilia Pinot Noir White Label has earth, mushroom, black raspberry, and red plum notes. Round and medium-bodied at first with a core of dark fruit. Like many of the Tilia reds wines, the tannins are big, so put this in the cellar for a few years.

• Castelfeder, Pinot Nero Riserva Burgum Novum 2016 – Alto Adige, Italy

MH: 92+/100 This is the first vintage of Castelfeder Pinot Nero Riserva Burgum Novum that is partially fermented with whole cluster. This is shyer than previous vintages at first but opens with air. There are notes of mountain berry, pepper, and perfume. This has juicy acidity and a certain Italian flair to it. Rich texture and tart red fruit with firm tannins and a long finish.

• Heap’s Good Winery, Modri Pinot 2015 – Stajerska, Slovenia

MH: 92 points The latest vintage from this Kiwi transplant in Slovenia is delicious. It’s light in color and very Southern Hemisphere in style with notes of mineral, hay, strawberry, raspberry, and white pepper. Silky smooth mid-palate and tannins with a long finish.

• Jakončič, Carolina Noir 2016 – Goriška Brda, Slovenia

CT: 91 points The 2016 vintage of Jakončič Carolina Noir shows notable improvement from 2015. This wine drinks well right out of the gate. Umani, smoky, salty, spicy, plus a bit rose, with all that underlined by candied fruit notes. The ripeness here reminds me of Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, California. Generous in density and intensity on the palate, leading to an appetizingly salty and sweet finish.

• Pasji Rep, Pinot Noir 2017 – Vipava, Slovenia

MH: 91 points Pasji Rep is a small organic producer located in the Vipava Valley. The Pasji Rep Pinot Noir 2017 is done in a friendly, fruity style. Notes of sour cherry and red raspberry. This has a round palate with silky tannins. The wine starts out fruity but develops a savory note and a peppery finish. It also has a history of aging well. A classic good example of Pinot Noir

• Etyeki Kúria, Pinot Noir Válogatás 2015 – Etyek, Hungary

MH: 90 points Etekyi Kúria is a new producer with a winery near Budapest. They are known in Hungary for making some of the best Pinot Noirs in the country. The Eteyki Kúria Pinot Noir Válogatás (vineyard selection) has notes of red raspberry, cherry, violet, and fall leaf. Silky and juicy with a low level of tannins. This is much better than their standard Pinot Noir.

• Sontacchi, Pinot Noir 2017 – Slavonia, Croatia

MH: 90 points Sontacchi is a small family winery located in the heart of Slavonia, and their Pinot Noir is a local favorite in Croatia. This vintage is a winner with delicate color and flavors. There are notes of raspberry, fall leaf, pepper, and a slight savory note. It’s real soft and silky on the palate with a touch of tannins. This vintage is silky and balanced with good length on the finish.

• Franz Haas, Pinot Nero 2017 – Alto Adige, Italy

CT: 88 points A spice-first-then-fruit kind of Pinot Noir, which I appreciate. Good intensity and textural depth on the palate. Vibrantly expressive and ready to drink.

• Hiša Joannes Protner Modri Pinot 2015 – Maribor, Slovenia

CT: 87+ points Undoubtedly the most ‘quintessential cool-weather Pinot Noir’ style at the show. Undoubtedly still not ready for consumption now. This ultra-linear, lightly-handed Pinot Noir might surprise acid freaks in a couple of years.

• Jamšek 1887, Modri Pinot 2015 – Vipava, Slovenia

CT: 87 points Beyond the typical fruit notes, there are spicy and floral hints of lavender, licorice, and ginger. Intriguing and complex aromatics. On the palate, the finish shows a bit of bitterness and oxidation. An exciting wine although untypical as a Pinot Noir.

NEW WORLD PINOT NOIR

Besides the walkaround tasting, there was also a masterclass about New World Pinot Noir, led by Quentin Sadler. 

• Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Pinot Noir 2018 – Walker Bay, South Africa

MH: 93+ points The Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir is my favorite wine of this entire festival. This South African beauty has notes of raspberry, cherry, strawberry, and white pepper. Perfumed and nuanced with a lovely texture. Dancing acidity and a long finish.

• Marimar Estate, Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2014 – Sonoma Coast, California

MH: 93 points The Marimar Estate Mas Cavalls is Sonoma County Pinot Noir to a tee. IT has notes of sweet raspberry, cool whip, pepper, and a touch of strawberry. There are sweet tannins and a long finish. The high ripeness from the fruit and oak took many of the crowd by surprise, and the wine was distinctly different than the others at the show.

• Seresin Estate 2014 “Rachel” Pinot Noir – Marlborough, New Zealand

CT: 92 points Proprietor Michael Seresin is a renowned cinematographer responsible for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, Planet of the Apes, and more. He founded Seresin in 1992 and soon after became known in the winemaking circuit as one of the first few in the country to embrace organic viticulture. The Seresin Estate Rachel Pinot Noir is a blend of three vineyards that are 200 meters in elevation, on clay-gravel soil types. The grapes receive a cold soak before fermentation. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 12 months in barriques

An intense and moderately complex bouquet with dominant aromas of black pepper, earth, and leaf piles—all that before the fruit. Soft on the palate yet it is packed with textural density and flavor intensity. Silky but persistent tannins marked by notes of redcurrant and cherry. Crunchy acidity leads the flavors but does not act like a lonewolf at any point. Note: The 2013 vintage of this wine is listed in Matthew Horkey’s Pinot Palooza: Pinot Noir from Australia and New Zealand article.

Cover image: facebook.com/modrilesnoirs 

You May Also Enjoy:

• German Pinot Noir: Is It Worth the Hype?
• Learn about Polish Wine with Izabella Kamińska

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The organizers of Modri les Noirs covered our travel and accommodation expenses during the show. However, please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Tokaj might be the most famous and world-renowned Hungarian wine region. But ask a local what region they want to visit for a wine holiday and many will answer Villány.

Located in the south, Villány was the first region to begin the quest for quality after the fall of communism. They have worked hard to position themselves as the premier red Hungarian wine region (the contenders are Szekszárd, Eger, and Sopron).

Cabernet Franc or Villányi Franc?

The name of the game in Villány is Cabernet Franc.

During a barrel tasting session in 2000, wine writer Michael Broadbent declared “Cabernet Franc has found its natural home in Villány!” Since then, the region has focused on making the grape its signature variety. Wines made from Cabernet Franc that are of exceptional quality can be labeled “Villányi Franc” after inspection and passing blind tastings by the committee. These wines are often the signature bottlings from producers.

Cabernet Franc is so important that Villány holds an annual conference dedicated to the variety. I attended the 2019 “Franc & Franc” conference and had the chance to spend time with producers. It was my fourth time visiting the region over the last two years.

Classicus, Premium, Super Premium

In order to understand the wines, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the classification system.

Villány was the first region to earn a protected denomination of origin after communism in the early 1990s (even before Tokaj). In 2005, the region adopted a quality control system. If wines want to carry the Villány stamp they must meet specific criteria under the Classicus and Premium classification. In 2015, Villány added a third classification Super Premium which only applies to wines made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Wines from this new classification just started reaching the market.

• Classicus: This category covers most of the wines produced in Villány. All of Villány’s permitted varieties can carry this classification.
• Premium: This category contains those wines that meet rigorous criteria than those set for the previous category. All of Villány’s permitted varieties can carry this classification.
• Super Premium: This category is reserved for high-quality wines that are made of 100% Cabernet Franc. There are strict requirements, including yield restrictions and passing blind tastings. Super Premium wines must spend at least one year in oak barrels and another year in bottles before release and must be labeled as Villányi Franc.

Just to make things more confusing, wines in the categories of Premium or Super Premium are allowed to be labeled Villányi Franc. Classicus wines made from Cabernet Franc must be labeled Villányi Cabernet Franc.

This classification system is not a surefire guarantee of quality. There are beautiful wines that receive the Classicus label and some Super Premium wines that are marked by overuse of oak. There are also a number of extraordinary wines in the Premium category that cannot be considered Super Premium because they are not 100% Cabernet Franc.

Other Villányi Wines

Cabernet Franc may be the grape that the region hangs its hat on but Villány is no one-trick pony. There are impressive wines made from Bordeaux blends, Portugieser, Kadarka, Syrah, and Kékfrankos. In fact, the latter two grapes perform well in Villány. In my opinion, they may actually be the best two suited for the region. If you track down a Villányi Syrah or Kékfrankos, don’t hesitate to try it.

White wines are usually a disappointment in Villány, save for an occasional solid Chardonnay here and there. There is plenty of Olazsrizling planted in Villány but most of the wines produced from it are simple quaffers. Here are my favorite wines from the few days at the 2019 Franc & Franc.

Wine Recommendations:

• Lelovits Tamás, Villányi Cabernet Franc 2017

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Lelovits Tamás is a small, family-run cellar. Their Lelovits Tamás Villányi Cabernet Franc has notes of black cherry, black raspberry, tobacco, pepper, and capsicum with judicious use of oak. It’s a riper Cabernet Franc but one that’s under control. The oak adds good tannin here, it’s an additive and not a detractor. Score: 90/100

• Bakonyi, Makar 2016

Péter Bakonyi is one of Villány’s brightest, young stars. The Bakonyi Makar is made from Cabernet Franc. This is ripe with flavors of black cherry, caramel, black olive, and earth. Full in body with a violet undertone and uplifting acidity. The tannins are firm but not aggressive. Score: 90/100

• Gere Attila, Fekete Járdovány 2016

Fekete Járdonvány is a pre-phylloxera grape variety that used to be widely planted in Villány. Now Gere Attila is the only producer who bottles it. This is not just unique but delicious. Notes of black raspberry, pepper, stems, and black tea. Almost like a blend of Syrah and Fetească Neagră, this is geeky and delicious. Score: 90/100

• Heumann, ‘Trinitás’ Villányi Franc 2016

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Heumann, ‘Trinitás’ Villányi Franc is made from Cabernet Franc. This has more of an old-world style to it, with plenty of charm. Notes of dried cherry, cappuccino, cedar, and chocolate notes. This is full-bodied and round with beautiful tannins. The only detractor here is that I’d like to see a touch longer finish, which would lift the wine to a big-time score. Score: 91/100

• Sauska, Cabernet Franc 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Sauska Cabernet Franc is simply a fine example of the grape. Notes of cherry, violets, and black olive are in this full-bodied Cabernet Franc with serious tannins. It reminds me of the examples from Tuscany and should do well in the cellar over the next ten years. Score: 90+/100

• Mokos, Villányi Franc 2015

The Mokos Villányi Franc is a super premium Villányi wine. For a big wine, it’s very pretty with notes of dark cherry, crushed rose petal, cedar, and tobacco. This is full-bodied, round, and might stand out in a Bordeaux tasting. Grippy tannins and a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Weninger & Gere, Cabernet Franc Selection 2006

During a tasting of older Villányi Francs, the Weninger & Gere Cabernet Franc stood out the most. It’s one of the first Hungarian wine producers that impressed me and this wine has another ten years left in the cellar.

It’s not overly powerful on the nose but there are wonderful savory notes of mushroom, crushed tobacco, and mud on the palate. A core of dried dark fruit on the round and pleasurable mid-palate. Intensity on the finish with developed tannins. Score: 93/100

• Tiffán’s, Grande Selection 2011

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Edi Tiffán was one of the first producers in Villány to chase quality in the 1990s. When we visited the cellar, he opened a number of archive wines from his collection. The Tiffán’ Grande Selection is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It’s a developed red wine with notes of capsicum, tobacco, cherry, plum, and cedar. This has a core of sweet red fruit and sweet tobacco at the center. The nose is shy but the palate is concentrated and the tannins are firm. Score: 92/100

• Gere Tamás & Zsolt, ‘Várerdő-dűlő’ Villányi Franc 2012

The Gere Tamás & Zsolt, ‘Várerdő-dűlő’ Villányi Franc is a premium level, single-vineyard wine. Very traditional and old-world in style with plenty of savory flavors in addition to the dried cherry, mushroom, and leather notes. This is very complex, there are notes of bottle age and earth to accompany the fruit. Complex finish and developed tannins. Score: 91/100

• Bock, 70+ Cuvée 2017

Bock is one of the most known producers in Villány. Many of his premium wines have lots of oak and structure. The Bock 70+ Cuvée is exactly the opposite of that.

This is a blend of Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. There’s not a lot of wood here. It’s full of red fruit, graphite, fall leaves, and pepper. Medium-bodied and juicy with a low level of tannins. It’s fruity, fun, and delicious with a long finish. Score: 92+/100

• Rácz Miklós Tamás, ‘Diósviszló’ Poudre Noire 2017

Villány is generally not the best region for Pinot Noir. That hasn’t stopped this tiny, high-quality producer. It’s one of the best examples of the grape in Hungary.

The Rács Miklós Tamás ‘Diósviszló’ Poudre Noire is a very solid effort. There are notes of ripe raspberry, fall leaves, pepper, and violets. It’s medium-bodied with a silky mouthfeel. Very good Pinot Noir, it should age gracefully in the medium term – if you can be patient. Score: 90/100

• Csayni/Teleki, Kővilla Cuvée 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Csayni Pincészet aks Château Teleki is one of the largest producers of Hungarian wine. That doesn’t mean that the quality is low though. The Kővilla Cuvée is a blend of Kékfrankos with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It shows ripe red berry fruits with pepper and a kiss of oak. The wine doesn’t show the greatest complexities in the world, but it does show impeccable drinkability and enjoyment. This is a fantastic bottle that delivers big-time value-for-money. Score: 90/100

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The cover photo is courtesy of the Villányi Borvidék website. Thanks to Villány Borvidék for providing entrance and accommodation at Franc & Franc 2019. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Villányi Franc & Franc appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

N.A.G. ‘Föld és Ég’ Syrah 2018

Németh Attila Gábor is one of Hungary’s most mysterious winemakers. He produces a fine line of Tokajis under the brand Alana Tokaj. The wines are difficult to track down in Hungary as nearly all of the production is exported. Gábor has another project in the lesser-known region of Mátra. This winery goes by his initials N.A.G.

Mátra is currently one of the hot areas in Hungarian wine. Of the 22 wine districts, Mátra has the second-largest vineyard area behind Kunság. Located one hour east of Budapest, Mátra is a hilly region chalked full of volcanic soils. There are a number of small producers popping up that are chasing quality and N.A.G. has one of the best track records thus far.

The N.A.G. Föld és Ég Syrah 2018 is one of the best Syrahs we’ve found in Hungary. Föld és Ég translates to “Earth and Sky”. It’s explosively intense on the nose with dominant floral, spicy, and fruity aspects, underlined by cigar, cacao, and leather notes. On the palate, the flavors are equally nuanced and intense, finishing with a 10-second long end-palate. This could be a really outstanding wine. We just want a little more tannin to sculpt all the good things.

Even though this clocks in at 15.5% abv, it feels medium-bodied. Thank you to Bortársaság, which is one of Hungary’s premier wine shops, for the sample.

Score: 92/100

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post N.A.G. Föld és Ég Syrah 2018 appeared first on Wine Travel.

Volcanic wines are a hot subject these days and GoVolcanic proved to be an explosive tasting.

Bad jokes aside, the first edition of GoVolcanic in Budapest, Hungary proved to be an interesting event. There were great volcanic wines from all over the world including Hungary, Austria, Israel, Spain, Slovakia, Portugal, Italy, France, and the USA. The event was headlined by Master Sommelier John Szabo, who’s credited with being one of the founders of this wine movement thanks to his book Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit, and Power.

As a first time event, there were a few organizational hiccups but the quality of the wines is what matters to me most. With this in mind, GoVolcanic excelled and exceeded my expectations. On the tasting tables and in the masterclasses all the wines followed the ‘volcanic terroir’ theme.

Go Volcanic Masterclasses and Speed Tastings

The strongest part of the GoVolcanic tasting was the workshops. Both days were filled with masterclasses from both wine professionals and geologists. The main tasting room also featured ‘speed tastings’ modeled after the London Wine Fair, where one professional led stand-up tastings of six wines in thirty minutes.

As someone who loves to taste quickly, these speed tastings were perfect for me. I attended four and all were led by competent professionals who selected excellent volcanic wines. If GoVolcanic comes back for a second edition, I’d love to see more of this setup.

The workshops at GoVolcanic 2019 were lead by both wine professionals and geologists. Both went beyond the normal masterclass and dug deeper into what makes volcanic soil unique for viticulture. The classes also featured hard to find wines such as ‘Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project’ and old vintages from Somló, Hungary.

There was a lot to like about GoVolcanic 2019 and I hope it comes back for a second edition this year. Here are my ten favorite volcanic wines from the show.

Wine Recommendations:

Foreign Wines

• Feudo Cavaliere, Millemetri Etna Rosato 2016 – Etna, Italy

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

I tasted the Feudo Cavaliere ‘Millemetri’ Etna Rosato during a speed tasting conducted by Master of Wine Elizabeth Gabay. It’s made from Nerello Mascalese and is full of sour cherry, strawberry, and mineral flavors. It’s a serious rosé, not just fruity, there’s plenty going on here. Gritty texture and a long finish. Score: 91/100

• Pico Wines, Frei Gigante 2018 – Pico, Azores 

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Frei Gigante is a masterpiece by the Pico Wines cooperative. It’s a blend of Arinto, Verdelho, and Terrantez. Tine wine is high in mineral flavors with notes of smoke, flint, and a faint hint of quince. The palate is smoky and savory in addition to being highly structured with a long finish. This isn’t for someone who wants fruit, it’s for those who like complex, savory white wines. Score: 92/100

• Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project, Breitenbrunn 2017 – Leithaburg, Austria

Roland Velich of Moric winery in Austria has a label called Hidden Treasures. He picks unique wines from Austria and Hungary for this label. This wine is made with Lichtenberge-González, a producer in the Leithaburg DAC in Austria. This Blaufränkisch is a savory red wine with mineral, white pepper, cherry, and a touch of cedar. Firm tannins and high acidity, it feels a lot like Sangiovese. The wine has a long finish and is cellar-worthy. Score: 91/100

• Fattorie Romeo del Castello, ‘Vigo’ Etna Rosso 2013 – Etna

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

The Fattorie Romeo del Castello Vigo is everything I want in an Etna Rosso. This is a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. It’s robust and smoky red with notes of black cherry, redcurrant, smoke, and tobacco. It’s full and round on that palate at first and then the small tannins hit hard on the back end. Score: 92+/100

Hungarian Wine

• Homonna Attila, ‘Határi’ Tokaji Furmint 2017 – Tokaj

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Homonna Attila is a tiny producer in Tokaj and his Határi Tokaji Furmint is one of his top dry wines. It has notes of sweet peach, white pear, flint, and yogurt flavors. Full-bodied and rich with a touch of residual sugar. This has real texture and structure. The fruit flavors may be a tad muted but you can’t deny the quality here, it’s for people who like German Riesling and Sylvaner. Score: 90/100

• Bajnóczy, ‘Sárkány-Lelke’ Pinot Gris 2017 – Balaton

Nerd alert! The Bajnóczy ‘Sárkány-Lelke’ Pinot Gris’ is for hardcore wine geeks. This is partially macerated and done in a minimal intervention style. The wine is full-bodied and gritty with a smoky flavor along with the dried yellow fruit and a slight almond finish. Score: 90/100

• 2HA, Shiraz 2016 – Balaton

The 2HA (2 hectares) winery is a tiny estate in North Balaton that puts an emphasis on red wines (this is primarily a white wine region) The 2HA Shiraz is more of a Syrah style than a Shiraz. Notes of dark fruit, violets, chocolate, and pepper. It’s juicy with a peppery finish. Complex and extremely well done. Score: 91+/100

• Fekete Pincé, Furmint 2007 – Somló

Fekete Pincé is one of the old guards of Somló and this Furmint 2007 is classic. There are notes of mushroom, campfire, smoke, and dried apricot. It’s full-bodied, oxidative, and highly mineral with a chewy texture and a long finish. Truly complex and unique, this is a thinking wine and a very good one at that. Score: 92/100

• Győrgykovács Imre, Hárslevelú 2010 – Somló

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Another old guard of the tiny volcanic region of Somló. The Győrgykovács Imre Hárslevelú has notes of white flower, honey, flint, smoke, and a faint bit of white pear. This is shiny and highly mineral. It’s full-bodied and fairly neutral. Highly structured with a long finish. This is not for people that want gobs of fruit, but it is a brilliant wine. It’s was my favorite wine of the entire GoVolcanic Summit. Score: 93+/100

• Somlói Apátsági Pince, Juhfark 2017 – Somló

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Somlói Apátsági Pince is another classic producer from Somló while Juhfark is one of the star varieties. This example is a late harvest, dry wine. The flavors include apricot, pear, sweet peach and honey with subtle notes of botrytis. It is full-bodied and minerally, unique and delicious. Gritty texture and a touch of residual sugar to build the body and balance the acidity. Score: 90/100

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GoVolcanic provided complimentary admission. Cover photo is from the GoVolcanic website. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Ten Volcanic Wines From GoVolcanic appeared first on Wine Travel.

Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Kiss Gábor, Enigma 2016

When it comes to red Hungarian wine, Villány is one of the premier districts. The district has made its name one big, rich red wines made from Cabernet Franc and other Bordeaux varieties. Villány is home to several larger wineries that kicked off the Hungarian wine quest for quality back in the 1990s including Bock, Tiffán’s, Gere Attila, Polgar, Gere Tamás & Zsolt, etc. There is an increasing number of small producers making a name for themselves as well.

Kiss Gábor is one of those producers.

He has a small parcel in Villány and grows Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Kékfrankos. The two top wines of Kiss Gábor are the ‘Code’ Villányi Franc (Cabernet Franc) and the ‘Enigma’ Villányi Merlot.

The Kiss Gábor Enigma is a 100% Villányi Merlot. There are notes of plum, black cherry, and cedar. On the palate, it’s surprisingly medium-bodied, not a bold bruiser like I would expect. More on the fruity side for a Merlot with soft tannins. People who want a massive, oaky red should look elsewhere.

Is it a concentrated, super-complex blockbuster? No.

Is it fun, well-made, and easy to drink? Yes.

Score: 90/100 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

Find or buy at Bortársaság.

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Do you want to learn more about Hungarian wine?

Be part of our fourth wine book Discover Hungarian Wine. Sign up HERE to learn how you can reserve a special edition, signed copy with a discount when our Kickstarter launches when the world returns to normalcy.

Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Kiss Gábor Enigma 2016 appeared first on Wine Travel.

The Tasting Table Budapest is the kind of place that we wish existed in every wine country. Located on Bródy Sándor in the Palace District, it’s at the top of the list as a “must-visit” place in Budapest. Whenever we visit Budapest, Tasting Table is always our first stop.

Owned by the same team behind Taste Hungary, a leading food and wine tour company in the country, Tasting Table Budapest is a wine shop and wine bar. Stocked with over 200 Hungarian wine labels, it offers a diverse selection of Hungarian wines by the glass and in its tasting flights.

Walking down the stairs into Tasting Table unveils a nirvana for wine geeks. The walls of the stone cellar are lined with wine bottles, the tables are always full, and there’s a constant buzz in the air.

Thursdays @ Taste Hungary’s Tasting Table Budapest

Every other Thursday, Tasting Table hosts a Hungarian wine-pairing dinner. One local winemaker is invited to present his/her wines while the in-house chef, Tamás, makes magic with one small oven and stovetop. It adds up to an intimate evening.

I had a chance to attend three of these wine-pairing dinners last Autumn. Every meal consisted of 3-4 food courses and 6-7 Hungarian wines. The wine selection goes beyond basic labels and the food is prepared with intention and care. But what I enjoyed most about every wine dinner was the company.

Hungarian is a difficult language to grasp, so it’s refreshing to be in an English-speaking environment. Tasting Table attracts visitors from all walks of life and the dinners and tastings are conducted in English. I’ve met diplomats, writers, and travelers—all with interesting stories to share—at Tasting Table.

During one of the dinners, I shared a table with people from Sweden, Germany, Romania, Hungary, Britain, Italy, and America. We were all strangers, but thanks to the social lubrication, conversations and laughter flowed freely after a few glasses of Hungarian wine. After an hour, we were exchanging life experiences and contacts. I left the meal full, not just from the food but with the warmth that comes with making new friends.

Food and wine are powerful tools in human interaction. They break down barriers and get to the core of what we need, sustenance and connection. And every time I walk down the stairs into Taste Hungary’s Tasting Table Budapest, I know that I’ll get those things. If you have a few hours to spare in Budapest, do yourself a favor and reward yourself with the same experience.

Hungarian Wines from Thursdays @ Tasting Table:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Kovács Nimrod, Rhapsody, 2016 – Eger

Kovács Nimrod is one of the names to know in Eger. The Rhapsody is his entry-level Bikavér (Bull’s Blood). It’s a blend of Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. This is a sleek, medium-bodied red with flavors of cherry, earth, pepper, and a kiss of oak. This is an everyday type of red but for those who want more complexity, I suggest the Kovács Nimrod Superior, Grand Bleu, or NJK. Score: 89/100

• Kolonics, Nagy-Somlói Furmint 2017 – Somló

Somló is one of Hungary’s smallest wine regions and is known for making complex, barrel-fermented white wines. The region consists of tiny producers like Kolonics. The Kolonics Nagy-Somlói Furmint is barrel fermented. Notes of lemon, white pear, smoke, and flint, with plenty of texture and fiery acidity. For hardcore wine nerds, this is really enjoyable. Score: 89/100

• Jackfall, Villányi Franc 2016 – Villány

The Jackfall Villányi Franc is a riper Cabernet Franc with notes of black cherry, graphite, tobacco, and mocha. The fruit is countered with savory and earthy notes. Most people would guess this a Bordeaux blend, not a varietal wine. Big, ripe tannins. Score: 91+/100

• Samuel Tinon, Szaraz Szamorodni 2009 – Tokaj

Samuel Tinon is a Frenchman who moved to Tokaj. He’s known as a specialist in dry Szamorodni, a unique style of wine similar to Fino Sherry. There are notes of bruised apple, almond, dried apricot, and walnut. Full in body and high in alcohol. The acidity is sharp and the wine finishes with a combination of dried peach and mineral. This is a pure geek wine. Score: 90+/100

• Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000 – Tokaj

The beautiful thing about Tasting Table is they usually end their tastings and dinners with sweet Tokaji. Owned by the Vega Sicilia group, Oremus is one of the big names in the Tokaj region. This wine has really come along with notes of butterscotch, orange peel, dried apricot, and yellow peach. This is uber complex, concentrated, and rich. Layered with lots of flavors, fiery acidity, and a long finish. Score: 95/100

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc Unfiltered 2017

Cabernet Franc is one of the most popular red grapes in Hungary. The Hungarian wine region of Villány has made Cabernet Franc its signature variety and thanks to that promotion, wineries throughout the country have had success growing and selling wines made from the grape. It’s grown in almost every Hungarian wine district.

Villa Tolnay is a property located in the Badacsony district of the larger Balaton wine region. It’s a region known for white wines although there are some standout reds being made there. The Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc is made with fruit grown on the Csobánc hill, which is volcanic in origin. It’s the top wine from the Villa Tolnay estate.

The Villa Tolnay, ‘Csobáncz’ Cabernet Franc Unfiltered is a Hungarian wine that acts like an old school type of wine. The vines are grown from French cuttings and the wine is fermented spontaneously with native yeasts. This is more of an earthy red with notes of mud, cherry, raspberry, capsicum, and a touch of funk. Medium-bodied and smooth with a lot of texture, it tastes more developed than the age suggests. The tannins are firm and the wine has a lengthy finish. It’s a fabulous wine for stews and charcuterie.

This is different than many Cabernet Francs made in Hungary. It’s very reminiscent of an example from Bourgueil. If you’re a fan of Cabernet Franc from the Loire, this one is worth seeking out. It’s not a wine with a big future in the cellar, so drink up now.

Score: 90/100 (You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.)

Find or buy at Bortársaság.

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Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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