“Are you making low alcohol wines because you like them, or is it because it’s what consumers are looking for these days? “

Dirk Niepoort looked at me in the eye for a second before replying, “when it comes to these wines, I don’t give a s@#!t about what the consumer thinks.”

Dirk joined his family company in 1987. From Niepoort’s inception to that point, it was focused as a Port shipper. Dirk spearheaded the company’s transformation and foray into table wines. Today, Niepoort produces a wide range of Port wines and table wines in seemingly every region in Portugal.

Niepoort Vinhos

When Dirk joined Niepoort in 1987, his goal was to make great table wines. His first project was a wine called ‘Robustus’, which was released in 1990 followed by the ‘Redoma’ which was first released a year later. I’ll never forget my first taste of the former, which is anything but robust. Recent vintages have so much ripeness and fruit without being jammy or high in alcohol. The last vintage that I tasted clocked in at 12.2% ABV.

A wine geek at heart, Dirk is one of the most respected winemakers in all of Portugal. I first met him last year at the Douro Boys Auction 2019. After sharing several meals with him, his passion for wine became even more evident. As a Burgundy nut, Dirk crafts wines that he wants to drink.

Niepoort produces wines all over Portugal and collaborates with other winemakers on other projects labeled as Niepoort Projectos. Niepoort reds in places like the Douro, the Dão, and Bairrada show that the region can do more than just concentration and power. Niepoort’s examples are focused on finesse and elegance. They are dare I say, Burgundian.

When my friend first told me about these low alcohol wines (especially from the Douro), I was skeptical. After tasting the wines, I’m a believer. Better yet, these wines are found around the world at fair prices. Wine geeks need to seek these out.

• Fio, ‘Fio’ Riesling 2015 – Mosel, Germany

This is a project collaboration between two young guys and Dirk in the Mosel. It’s a traditional style Riesling that is aged in large casks for two years. Gorgeous nose of baked apple, slate, apricot, and white pepper. There’s plenty of richness and fruit here with perfectly integrated oak. The mineral finish caps off a real winner. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Nat Cool Branco 2019 – Vinho Verde

This is made in old school way of Vinho Verde, bottled with a touch of residual sugar so the wine would re-ferment and have some soft bubbles. It’s a blend of many grapes like Azal, Arinto, Avesso, Trajadura, and Loureiro. This wine has some sediment and cloudiness. Notes of the sea, along with beer yeast, lemon, and grass. Surprisingly fuller in body for a Vinho Verde than I would expect. Spritzy bubbles and lively, fun wine. Buyer beware, some people might think this smells too sulfurous and too much like eggs on the first whiff. You need context before getting served this wine. After a few days in the fridge, it shed its funkiness and what was left is a delicious, minerally white.  Score: 89/100

• Niepoort, Redoma Tinto 2018 – Douro

The Niepoort, Redoma Tinto is one of the staples in Dirk’s portfolio. It’s a field blend including grapes like Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cão, and Tinta Roriz. It’s aged in old oak for 22 months. Even though it’s young there are notes of leather along with sweet red cherry, blueberry, and some mineral tones. Excellent fruit concentration for a wine that is only 12.5% abv. It’s almost like a dense Pinot Noir. The palate is sensual with many layers and fine-grained tannins. Brilliant stuff. Score: 93+/100 

• Niepoort, Concisco 2014 – Dão

This is a field blend made from vines up to 100 years in age. Most of the varieties in the field are Baga and Jaen (Mencia). It’s aged in cask for 20 months. Like a red Burgundy with notes of red forest fruits, forest floor, leather, and pepper. Very complex and rich smelling for a poor vintage and a low alcoholic wine. The fruit is concentrated enough on the front end while the acidity stretches out the finish. Tannins are still a little chewy, which would allow this wine to age well. Very good for a tough vintage. Score: 91+/100

• Niepoort, Bastardo 2018 – Douro

This grape is known as Trousseau in France. This is aged for 20 months in French oak. Very light in color for a red. Notes of fresh cut strawberry, raspberry, flint, white flower, and a touch of muskiness. Delicate and lighter on the palate with plenty of red fruit notes, vibrant acidity, and surprisingly chewy tannins. It reminds me of Nerello Mascalese from Etna. This is fresh and fun but I bet it could really start to soar after time in the bottle. Score: 90+/100

• Niepoort, Poerinho Baga 2014 – Bairrada

Made from vines of Baga that are over 100 years old. Aged for 20 months in large vats. At only 11% ABV, this really smells like a Burgundy. Savory with notes of leather, sour cherry, stems, and earth. The nose gives way to plenty of Old World notes. Medium-bodied, this doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that Baga can have. High acidity and a juicy finish. This is a wonderful effort for a tough vintage. Score: 91/100

*I talk about this bottle at 2:59 in the video below.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort: Low Alcohol Portuguese Wine appeared first on Wine Travel.

“We opened this special bottle last night and thought it would be great to share it with you,” Dirk Niepoort said. “The base of this wine is from the mid-1800s.”

I’ve tasted wines several times with Dirk and he’s always generous. If you’re lucky enough to sit down with him, be prepared for something special. Dirk may be the face of one of Portugal’s best-known wine brands but he’s still a wine geek at heart.

Niepoort was founded by Dutch immigrants in the mid-19th century. The modern history of the estate began in 1987 when Dirk Niepoort joined the family business and began expanding it. He helped in shifting the focus of Niepoort from a Port Wine shipper, to a producer of both Ports and table wines.

This estate started as a small shipper but under Dirk’s watch, has become a Portuguese wine powerhouse. Their portfolio encompasses a wide range of Ports and they also make table wines from different regions throughout Portugal. Wines are produced in all price points.

Even though Niepoort has put tremendous effort into table wines, the fine Ports still shine. In addition to the normal ranges of Rubies and Tawnies, Niepoort produces several rare and unique Port wine styles. This includes White Port, Crusted Port, Colheita, VV, and Garrafeira. Niepoort is among the few houses that produces the latter.

Fortunately, the large portfolio doesn’t equate to diluted quality. It’s hard to believe that the wine geek in Dirk would allow that. The quality and age-ability of Niepoort wines is nothing to scoff at. I’m waiting for the world to return to normal so I can return to Portugal and get a taste of that mid-1800s Port again.

While we all look towards a better 2021, here are a few new releases of Niepoort Port wine that should hold us over while we wait.

Niepoort Port Wine Styles

• Niepoort, 10 Years Old White Port

White Ports are not known for being fine wines. The new trend is mixing them with tonic water to make a cocktail. Don’t even think about doing that with the Niepoort, 10 Years Old White Port.

It has a gorgeous amber color and is aged in traditional pipes (Port barrels) for 7 to 15 years before bottling. It smells similar to a tawny Port (albeit a bit fresher) with notes of dried oranges, toffee, sweet peaches, caramel, and slate. On the palate, it’s round and complex. There’s a gorgeous interplay between citrus fruits and acidity on the finish, almost like a ripe mandarin orange. A tiny amount of drying tannins and a lingering finish. Alcohol is well integrated. The finest white Port I’ve tasted. Score: 92/100

• Niepoort, Colheita 1997

The Niepoort, Colheita is a Tawny Port that spent nearly 18 years in casks. The nose is fragrant and explosive with notes of toffee, roasted nuts, caramel, and dried figs. It’s rich and mouth-coating on the palate, almost like a caramel-covered apple. The palate explodes with richness and complexity. It finishes long with an almond, macadamia nut flavor. Great length. Score: 94/100

• Niepoort, Crusted Port 2015

This Niepoort, Crusted Port was bottled in December of 2015 and is a blend of several vintages. It’s a Ruby-style port that offers complexity beyond the price point. There are notes of dried cherry, plum, mocha, and spice. Almost like a Christmas cake. It’s got a generous amount of fruit on the palate with vibrant acidity and grippy tannins. It acts like a baby Vintage Port. A real winner in terms of QPR, this can still improve further with bottle aging. Score: 92+/100

• Niepoort, Vintage Port 2015

The Niepoort, Vintage Port is a field blend aged two years in cask. This is a baby and has many years ahead of it but is surprisingly accessible now. Notes of leather, black cherry, red plum, chocolate, and pepper. Full-bodied and rich on the palate. The fruit envelopes the palate like a soft glove and the tangerine peel-like acidity raises at the end. Big, chewy tannins that ensure a long life in the cellar. This tastes even better than when I first had it back in 2019. Score: 95/100

• Niepoort, Garrafeira 1987

Niepoort is the only producer to make Garrafeira Port. Aged four years in cask and the rest of the time in glass Demijohns. The style is between a Vintage Port and Tawny Port. Has the color of an aged Pinot Noir. Notes of red raspberry, sour cherry, garrigue, caramel, toffee, and even a touch of nuttiness. It’s extremely elegant for a Port and the alcohol isn’t burning. The fruit takes center stage here. This doesn’t bring the power of a Vintage Port nor the explosive nuttiness of a Tawny but it does bring complexity and length. Unique and delicious, this still has many years left in the cellar. Score: 96+/100

• Niepoort, VV

The base of the Niepoort VV is from 1863. Extremely rare and bottled in tiny quantities. It’s like an intense, layered Colheita (Tawny). Full of macadamia nuts, marzipan, toffee, dried fig, and caramel flavors. This is full, rich, and multi-faceted on the palate. It feels as if it might be too sticky at first but then the vibrant acidity helps wash the palate clean. The alcohol is balanced and this is in outstanding shape for such an old wine. Score: 94/100

I tasted this from Jeroboam with Dirk Niepoort over dinner in the Fall of 2019.

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Niepoort provided tasting samples. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Niepoort – A Port Wine Maestro appeared first on Wine Travel.

Quinta Varzea da Pedra is one of my favorite discoveries of 2020.

Every year, I taste thousands of wines from all over the world. A handful of those wines have that special something, a twinkle in the eye. That’s what drew me to Quinta Varzea da Pedra.

Quinta Varzea da Pedra

Quinta Varzea da Pedra’s distributor Wine Concept was the first to give me a taste of the wine. I had low expectations of that bottle, a Fernão Pires 2017. The first sip flipped immediately intrigued me. I reached out to the winery, wishing to experience their entire portfolio.

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra is a 26-hectare estate in the village of Bombarral. It’s near Lisbon and located within the Obidos DOC region. This is a true gem in the world of wine. There are swathes of inexpensive, well-made, industrial tasting Portuguese wines. Quinta Varzea da Pedra is the exact opposite of that. The wines from Quinta Varzea da Pedra are full of texture and richness at great price points.

The Lisboa Vinho Regional is home to a few dynamic producers. Winemakers all over Portugal rave about the potential of the region. I’ve tasted some impressive stuff coming from the Lisboa VR and with producers like Varzea da Pedra leading the way, the future looks bright. Do yourself a favor and check these wines out.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Fernão Pires 2017

The wine that drew me into the Quinta Varzea da Pedra portfolio. Read all about it in an article from earlier in the year. Score: 91/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Macerado 2017

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Macerado is a blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto foot trodden before the start of fermentation. It’s got a beautiful nose of honey, apricot, baked apple, forest floor, and dried lemon peel. Very complex nose. The palate is loaded with salinity. The tannins are ripe and very soft for an orange wine. High acidity wipes the palate clean. A tad more concentration would push this to higher levels. Score: 89/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco 2018

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco is a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires. Golden color for a fresh white wine. Notes of yellow peach, pineapple, sea salt, and a touch of natural gas. It smells like it would be a ripe, fruity white wine but the palate is full of saltiness. Lemony, spicy finish. Score: 88/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branco Reserva 2016 

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Branca Reserva is a blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires that is barrel fermented. This is a fun, textured white wine. Initial notes include lemon zest, yellow peach, beach sand, and just the right amount of sweet oak. The palate is saltier than the fruity nose. Lots of texture here with good length. For a white that is four years old, this doesn’t show a lot of age. Score: 90+/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Reserva 2016

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged for 24 months in oak. This is a dark, full red. Notes of black cherry, cassis, tobacco, and charred wood. The wood shows here and the fruit is still bursting through on the palate. There’s a citrusy acidity that runs down the spine of the wine. The tannins are ripe and round now, making it easy to drink right out of the gate. A few years in the bottle will add complexity. Score: 90/100

• Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Grande Reserva 2015

The Quinta Varzea da Pedra, Tinto Grande Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged for 42 months in oak. Dark, dense red that shows plenty of balance. Notes of blackberry, black currant, licorice, black spice, and violets. Round and developed palate. Nothing sticks out here, the fruit, tannins, and acid are in harmony. A slight lemon zest acidity stretches out the finish. A wine with texture and length. It’s packed with fruit and should improve with more time in the cellar. Score: 92/100

*You can see Charine’s notes below:

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Thanks to Quinta Varzea da Pedra for the wines. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Portuguese wine is the gift that keeps on giving.

This small country packs a punch when it comes to wine. It’s not a secret that I adore Portuguese wine and jump at the opportunity to taste it whenever possible. The world needs what Portugal has to offer. Delicious wines made from unique grapes at more than fair price points.

This year, thanks to COVID, it looks like I will miss my annual trip to Portugal. Thankfully, many producers have softened the blow by sending samples to taste. One of those organizations that came to my rescue is the Family Wine Growers Portugal.

Family Wine Growers Portugal

The Family Wine Growers Portugal is an agency that helps smaller producers distribute and export their wine all over the world. They reached out to me and asked me to taste several of the producers they represent. Based on what I tasted, they’ve chosen a fine set of producers for their portfolio.

“We make an assessment based on quality, family heritage, and ability to respond to export processes,” says Dora Caseiro, a co-owner of Family Wine Growers Portugal. “If a producer scores 90% in all of our parameters, we accept to manage their exports.”

All of the wines I tasted for this article show export potential. All of the wines are available in Portugal for less than 17 Euros on the shelf, many of them hovering around or under the 10 Euros range. Around the world, these wines should be able to be found at wallet-friendly prices. When it comes to price-quality, all of these wines deliver. The more Portuguese wine available, the merrier.

Wine Recommendations:

Portuguese White Wine

• Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Códega do Larinho / Rabigato has notes of quince, white apricot, white peach, and a touch of yogurt. Full body and chewy, this tastes like it was barrel fermented. There’s a nice streak of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Longer finish. This is a rich, full-bodied white in the true Douro style. Score: 90/100

• Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho 2017

The Valle do Nídeo, Alvarinho / Viosinho is a delicious, bigger style of Alvarinho with some Viosinho blended in for acidity. This has notes of lime, lemon, white flower, and cool yogurt notes. It’s a rich wine with depth and layers. The wine has length and a slight green streak to it along with a flinty, slatey finish. This will be fantastic with shellfish all the way up to creamy chicken dishes. Score: 90+/100

• S. Caetano, Alvarinho 2019

The S. Caetano, Alvarinho is a beautiful crispy white wine and a great value to boot (comes in at under 10 Euros in Porugal). Notes of lime, lemon, and seawater. This has the zesty acidity that is common with the grape on a bigger-bodied frame. This is the perfect shellfish wine. Tangy finish. Score: 90/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva 2017

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Encruzado Reserva is from the Dão and partially aged in oak. It’s a gorgeous wine. There are notes of quince, green pear, and white peach along with subtle yogurt and mineral notes. It’s an elegant, medium-bodied white that sits nicely on the palate. Bracing acidity for a barrel-aged wine and a long, salty, and mineral-driven finish. Score: 91/100

• Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto 2017

The Rama & Selas, Branco Bruto is a sparkling wine from Arinto, Chardonnay, and Baga. This has spent 9 months in the bottle. Notes of mineral, white flower, white pear, lemon, and a hint of biscuit. This has a fine bead of bubbles. Fruity and easy to drink with just a hint of complexity. This has a hint of volatile acidity, which adds to the complexity. Crisp and clean finish. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Reserva Branco is a barrel-aged blend of Semillon and Arinto. It is shy at first as the wood sticks out at the beginning. As the wine breathes and gains air there are flavors of white flower, white pear, white peach, and white apricot. Oily mouthfeel with well-integrated wood. There is a line of bright acidity that stretches the palate. This is good now but it really built to age. Score: 90+/100

Portuguese Red Wine

• Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva 2015

The Quinta do Daniel, Douro Reserva is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and other varieties aged in new oak for 12 months. It’s hard to believe that this is five years old, it smells like really fresh red wine. There are notes of black cherry pie, mulberry, and a little white pepper. It’s a fruit dominant red. Full-bodied and plush it has mouth-coating tannins. The fruit carries through all the way and the alcohol isn’t felt. Easy drinking, full-bodied red now but it has the potential to improve in the cellar. Score: 89/100

• S. Caetano, Vinhão 2018

The S. Caetano, Vinhão is a unique Vinho Verde Tinto made from Vinhão aka Sousão. Dark and inky with notes of blackberry, black raspberry, black cherry, and a hint of black licorice. On the first sniff, you might think that it’s a big, brooding red but there is plenty of acidity here. The acid isn’t searing like many examples of the grape can be but there’s enough of it. Soft tannins and a refreshing, fresh red to sip on without fuss. Score: 87/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature 2015

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Signature is a brilliant red wine. Made from Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. This isn’t a big bomb, there’s plenty of fruit here but it doesn’t overwhelm you with ripeness. Flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, black tea, menthol, and gravel. There’s enough fruit upfront with subtle complexities on the backend. The tannins build slowly but are never too dry. High acidity that should ensure this has a long life ahead. They call Dão the Burgundy of Portugal and one taste of this will tell you why. Score: 92/100

• Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional 2016

The Chão de São Francisco, ‘Chão da Quinta’ Premium Touriga Nacional is another delicious Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. The nose draws you in right away with the notes of blackberry, red raspberry, crushed flowers, and pine. It’s a dark, inky red wine that is generous on the palate right from the first sip. The tannins are chewy and sweet, which feel great in the mouth. This is a beauty to drink now. Score: 91/100 

• Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva 2015

The Rama & Selas, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga, Syrah, and Merlot. It’s a wine that has resisted aging with notes of blackberry, black cherry, and a touch of tobacco & pencil lead. It’s a big, fruity wine that has the oak under control. There’s a mouthful of fruit up front with some grippy tannins on the back end. It’s a delicious red but doesn’t have the refinement to be great but it doesn’t have to be. At this price, this is a real winner. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto 2018

The Quinta do Convento, Tinto is a blend of Caledoc and Touriga Nacional. This is beautiful and very Portuguese in flavor. Notes of blackberry, black raspberry, bramble, stems, and pepper notes. This has plenty of ripe fruit but it isn’t a big wine, it’s more medium-bodied. Chewy tannins and vibrant acidity. Delicious and accessible. Score: 89/100

• Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva 2007

Quinta do Convento, Tinto Reserva is a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional aged in French oak. There is beautiful development here with notes of leather, tobacco, dried raspberry, dried cherry, and pepper. The palate still has substantial tannins and an earthy finish. There’s plenty of plush, developed fruit with high acidity. It acts almost Pinot Noir-esque. If you want the taste of aged wine that doesn’t break the bank, this is worth checking out. Score: 91/100

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Thanks to the Family Wine Growers Portugal and the wineries for arranging samples to be sent. The opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Mouth-filling reds that over-deliver their price points.

That’s was my past impression of Alentejo. While there are plenty of inexpensive, enjoyable reds to be found, Alentejo is much more than just cheap reds. There are world-class wines to be found in the region, both red and white.

Over the past few years, Charine and I have tasted a few serious reds from the region which piqued our curiosity. During a two and a half week stint in Portugal, I got the opportunity to discover Alentejo in depth.

Alentejan Wine Grapes

Alentejo is a treasure trove of wine grapes, both indigenous and imported. According to Vinhos do Alentejo, there are currently 82 wine grapes permitted in the Alentejo DOC. Surprisingly, there are more white grapes (42) than reds. Interesting white-skinned grapes include Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro while reds consist of Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alfrocheiro, Castelão.

Alexandre Relvas of São Miguel believes that Touriga Franca and Trincadeira are the future of red grapes in the region. São Miguel’s top wine ‘Pé de Mãe’ is made of the later. “Trincadeira is great at retaining acidity in our hot climate,” he says.

Some international grapes have taken to the Alentejan terroir including Alicante Bouchet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Noir, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Petit Verdot, and Syrah. Alicante Bouchet may have found its natural home in Alentejo. Brought to the region by Mouchão, it can make wines that are spicy and serious.

Wine Styles in Alentejo

Value red and white wines are aplenty in Alentejo. The hot summers and warm autumns allow for red wine grapes and the tannins to get fully ripe. However, a shortage of water is a problem and it’s something the region has to tackle if the drought continues.

I had the impression that Alentejo was completely flat, which is dead wrong. While there are vineyards and cork trees planted on expansive flatlands, there are also many hills which create several microclimates. This is a hot region, more suited towards reds. However, the local grape Antão Vaz and Arinto (used in the Douro) keep decent levels of acidity and are capable of producing world-class wines.

The reds are Alentejo’s calling card though. There will always be a market for plush, affordable red wines and the region already has that nailed. For higher-priced wines, Alentejo is wise to focus on Portuguese grapes in addition to Alicante Bouschet. There are already a number of serious reds being made that should suit all types of palates. I look forward to following the region’s progress.

Alentejo has its own appellation dedicated to wines made in amphora, the Vinho do Talha DOC. This winemaking has a tradition spanning over two thousand years. In recent times, it’s a style that is experiencing a renaissance. Stay tuned to our page for an upcoming article dedicated to these wines.

A Word On Alentejan Cuisine

Thanks to wide-open spaces, access to the Atlantic Ocean, and plenty of olive trees the food of Alentejo is hearty and stands up to the robust wines. The greasy black Alentejan pork is excellent as charcuterie, braised, or grilled. The seafood is also prepared in a bolder style too, like the Carne de Porco à Alentejana (clams with pork) and the Sopa de cação (dogfish stew). You can also find perfectly prepared lamb and robust tomato soup. After all, hearty wine requires hearty food.

Wine Recommendations:

• Esporão, Reserva 2016

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Esporão is one of the most recognizable estates from Alentejo, both locally and abroad. The Esporão Reserva is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragaonez, Alicante Bouchet, and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in oak. The oak stands out here but goes well with the lush black fruit. Big, plush, and soft red. It’s polished and full-bodied with round tannins. Good and crowd-pleasing red. I’ve been tough on this wine in the past, but this vintage is beautiful. Score: 90+/100

*I also highly recommend the Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017, it’s a fresh red wine that offers tremendous value for money and shows true Alentejan character.

• Howard’s Folly, Sonhador 2015

Find or buy on Wine-Searcher.

Howard’s Folly is the private project of David Baverstock, head winemaker at Esporão. The Howard’s Folly Sonhardor is simply a fantastic wine at a great price. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouchet, Syrah, Aragonez, and Touriga Nacional with notes of chocolate, dark red cherry, ripe strawberry, and pepper. It smells dark and dense but feels light on the palate. Chewy tannins and a good finish. This is a mid-range wine but I prefer it over the Howard’s Folly Reserva. Score: 90/100

*Thanks to Wine Concept in Lisbon for allowing me to taste through the Howard’s Folly portfolio.

• Herdade do São Miguel, Pé de Mãe 2017

This translates to “mother’s foot”. The Herdade do São Miguel Pé de Mãe is made from Trincadeira aged for 18 months in big barrels. This has a nose of black raspberry, violets, pepper, and tobacco. This has depth and distinction. For a wine from Alentejo, this has a lot of elegance. Tart fruit flavors and high acidity with firm tannins. After some time in the bottle, this could become quite Pinot Noir-esque. Only the second vintage of this wine. Score: 91+/100

• São Lourenço do Barracol, Vinho Branco 2018

The São Lorenço do Barracol Vinho Branco is a fabulous entry-level wine, it’s available only at the estate (which also happens to have a fabulous restaurant). It’s a blend of Roupeiro, Marsanne, and Viognier. This has aged very well. Fantastic body with flavors of apricot, honey, dried peaches, and sage. This is more Rhône in style with body and low acidity. It still retains a lot of fruit with just a touch of natural gas. Phenolic and tasty. Score: 90/100

• José Maria Fonseca, José de Sousa Mayor 2016

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The José de Sousa Mayor is a blend of Grand Noir, Trincadeira, and Aragonez. Around 50% of this blend is made in Talhas and aged in French oak for 9 months. Notes of blackberry, cherry, spice, and tobacco. This is surprisingly elegant for a wine from Alentejo. The tannins are present and round but not overly grippy. Good length on the finish. The high acidity makes this a wine that screams for food. Score: 89/100

• Mouchão, Tinto 2013

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Mouchão is one of the premier names in all of Portugal. This producer was responsible for bringing Alicante Bouchet to the region. This tinto is 90% Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira. Fantastic red wine with notes of red fruit, raspberry, black herbs, and pepper. Svelte mouthfeel with impeccable balance and elegance. This tastes incredibly young, it shows no aging. Long and peppery finish. Score: 93/100

• Mouchão Tonel 3 & 4 2013

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The Mouchão Tonel 3 & 4 is 100% Alicante Bouschet bottled only in great vintages. The wine is matured in two 5000L barrels numbered 3 & 4. Concentrated and inky with notes of rubber, black cherry, black raspberry, tobacco, and pepper. This has depth and concentration not found with this grape. This is structured in a great way. Firm tannins promise this will have a long cellar life, this is an extraordinary effort. Score: 95+/100

• Quinta do Mouro, Tinto 2008

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The Quinta do Mouro Tinto is a blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouchet, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a dark, inky, and developed red wine. Thanks to Vinhos do Alentejo for digging into their collection and passing me this sample bottle. There are notes of sweet tobacco, leather, black cherry, plum, charred earth, and pepper. Full-bodied and mouth-coating tannins. Long finish. Score: 91/100

*Thanks to Vinhos do Alentejo for pulling this out of their personal collection for me to taste.

• Monte da Ravasqueira, MR Premium Tinto 2014

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The Monte da Ravasqueira MR Premium Tinto is a blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Aragonez, aged 27 months in French oak. Developed wine with leather, plum, black cherry, and a touch of raisin. This is a full-bodied, polished red wine. Dense and fruity with a generous amount of sweet oak with big tannins on the finish. It’s a nice wine, but the price may detract many consumers. Score: 89/100

• Vidigueira, Grande Eschola 2015

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What a brilliant red wine from a cooperative. The Vidigueira Grand Eschola is a blend of Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet aged for 12 months in oak. More serious than the price suggests (around 8 Euros in Portugal). Notes of black fruit, tobacco, black raspberry, mocha, and spice. A pretty serious wine for this price. It has fruit and nuances with a spicy intensity, soft tannins, and a persistent finish. Score: 90/100

• Herdade do Rocim, Grande Rocim 2015

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The Herdade do Rocim Grande Rocim is made from 100% Alicante Bouschet, foot trodden in lagares, and aged two years in the barrel. This is refined, serious stuff. Notes of rubber, tobacco, cedar, black cherry, plum, and pepper. This is full but not brooding because of the acidity. Alcohol is balanced and there is a spike of fruit intensity on the palate. Round tannins and a long finish. Score: 92/100

• Cartuxa, Pêra-Manca Branco 2016

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The Cartuxa Pêra -Manca Branco and Tinto are two of Alentejo’s most celebrated wines. The Branco is a blend Antão Vaz and Arinto, two-thirds of the wine is fermented in oak. Notes of pineapple, lime, mineral, and yogurt. Complex and balanced at the same time with good use of oak. It’s full and creamy with a citrus finish. This is the best white wine I’ve had from Southern Portugal to date. Score: 93/100

• Cartuxa, Tinto Reserva 2015

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The Cartuxa Tinto Reserva is a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez aged for 15 months in the barrel and 15 months in bottle before release. This is oaky but has notes of expensive, well-integrated wood. Notes of black fruit, smoke, pepper, bacon fat, and black cherry. This is full-bodied and refined. This has intensity on the back end with a long finish. Score: 92/100

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Thanks to the Vinhos do Alentejo for providing the appointments and accommodation during my stay. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated.

Herdade do Portocarro ‘Partage’ Touriga Nacional 2011

The Setúbal Peninsula is located just south of Lisbon, Portugal. In terms of wine production, it’s most famous for the fortified wine Moscatel de Setúbal. Herdade do Portocarro is one producer that is attempting to change the reputation of the region and focus on premium dry wines.

Herdade do Portocarro’s winemaker loves tales from the old American west. Several wines in the lineup pay homage to Native American chiefs like Cavalo Maluco (Crazy Horse) and Geronimo. The winery works with a number of Portuguese grapes in addition to Sangiovese.

This wine is made from 100% Touriga Nacional. It’s a grape more commonly associated with Port and table wines from the Douro. The grape is also grown throughout the country. Touriga Nacional is a wise choice for winemakers in Southern Portugal, thanks of its ability to maintain high acidity.

The 2011 vintage of Herdade do Portocarro ‘Partage’ Touriga Nacional is aged in French oak for 18 months. It’s a developed wine with notes of plum, dried cherry, brown herbs, rose petal, and tobacco. You can feel the acidity and a medium level of tannins. You have to like mature wines to appreciate this, for those who want fresh red, look elsewhere. It’s a complex, thought-provoking wine. My only wish is to have known this wine at a younger age.

Score: 91/100

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You can also find Herdade do Portocarro wines on 8wines.com. Use our code EWT8WO7 and get €15 off your first purchase of $100 or more. (EU-wide delivery plus Hong Kong, Japan, and Norway)

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

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Please note that the opinions expressed are our own and have not been paid for in any way. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

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I can’t get enough of the Douro.

Located in northern Portugal, the Douro is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Douro meanders through the mountains, making this an unforgiving environment to grow grapes. There are steeply terraced vineyards as far as the eye can see. In my opinion, it is the most beautiful wine region in the world.

The Douro has a long history of fortified wine production. It’s officially the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Ports are known the world over for their collectability and age-worthiness. In recent decades, dry wines have become an important part of the Douro’s identity.

The Douro Boys

In 2003, a group of five producers banded together to promote the region. They made a massive push for dry Douro wines to receive worldwide recognition. The group consists of Quinta do Vale Meão, Quinta do Vallado, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria, and Niepoort. I recently joined them for the 2019 Douro Boys Auction.

All of the Douro Boys make stellar Ports but much of their production centers on dry table wines. All of the producers work with the local Douro grapes. You can find delicious field blends and varietal wines in their portfolios. The wines can be everything from oaky, concentrated blockbusters to wines that show more restraint.

Personally, I prefer the reds from the Douro to have less oak and show more tartness from the grape Touriga Nacional. Francisco Olazabal of Quinta do Vale Meão agrees, “When I started, I was looking a little more for concentration,” Francesco said. “Nowadays, I think the good winemakers in the Douro are looking for freshness and balance.”

Douro White Wines

The Douro contains mostly red grapes, although all of the producers in the Douro Boys make at least one white wine, all of them are good with some being stellar. I was impressed with the Quinta do Crasto Douro Superior white, which is a barrel-fermented blend of Viosinho and Verdelho. The grapes come from a high elevation vineyard that overlooks the estate (see below).

“When I first started here, I had zero confidence in Douro white wines,” said Manuel Lobo, the winemaker at Quinta do Crasto. “Now I am completely the opposite, there is a real future for Douro white wines.”

Douro Boys Cellars

We visited each cellar throughout the week, here are some of my impressions.

• Quinta do Vale Meão: The entire property and vineyard holdings are located in the Douro superior. The house style is creating wines with bright red fruit notes that are big without being too bruising. They produce a number of experimental reds from Baga and Touriga Nacional and the flagship red is still one of my favorite dry wines in the region (see below in wine recommendations).

• Quinta do Vallado: This large producer has a fabulous hotel in the heart of the Douro. Their dry reds are big, tannic, and oaky. The wines are a little tough to drink young but the high structure allows them to age well. The Vallado style bodes well for their Ports, which are dense and fruity.

• Quinta do Crasto: We’ve been buying and drinking the wines from Quinta do Crasto for a long time. They produce a variety of wines across all price points and their entry and mid-level wines offer tremendous value for money. The top-end wines from the Maria Teresa and Ponte vineyards are dense and serious.

• Quinta Vale D. Maria: The smallest producer in the Douro Boys. All of their wines are foot trodden (except the white). The wines of Vale D. Maria are blockbusters that are no stranger to big critic scores. These are big, dense, and concentrated reds that need time in the bottle to unfurl. The wines of Vale D. Maria are for fans of big Napa Cabernets. Their Vintage Port is also highly recommended.

• Niepoort: Dirk Niepoort is an ambitious producer that makes wine throughout Portugal. The dry wines are all about low alcohol and elegance, a stark contrast to the rest of the dry reds made in the Douro. Niepoort’s portfolio is huge but the dry wines can be phenomenal and are worth exploring. The Niepoort Vintage Ports are also outstanding.

Wine Recommendations:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the WINE RATING page.

• Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro 2016

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The Quinta do Vale Meâo Douro is the flagship red of the estate and this vintage is excellent. Dark cherry, strawberry, pepper, cedar, and a touch of mocha. I really like this wine in every vintage. It’s full in body with high acidity and fine tannins. This is a spectacular finish and a long life ahead of it.  Score: 95/100

*This wine was listed as #56 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2019

• Quinta do Vallado, ‘Reserva Field Blend’ Douro 2011

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The Quinta do Vallado Reserva Field Blend is made from a vineyard over 100 years old and containing 45 different grape varieties. This is aged for 18 months in new and used French oak and the time in bottle has served it well. There are flavors of black raspberry, violets, black cherry, and tobacco. It tastes like a true, dry Vintage Port. Big time tannins and a long finish with the right amount of development. Score: 93/100

• Roquette & Cazes, ‘Xisto’ Douro 2015

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This wine is a result of a partnership of knowledge with Quinta do Crasto and Chateau Lynch-Bages. The Xisto Roquettte & Cazes is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. A darker and denser offering from Crasto. It has notes of black raspberry, red plum, black cherry, meat, and tobacco. This is a big-bodied and floral on the palate. Tangerine-like acidity on the finish. Score: 94+/100

• Quinta do Crasto, Honore 2015

This is made from Quinta do Crasto’s two great vineyards, Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte. It is a field blend of Douro varieties aged in new French oak and is only bottled in magnums. This is a big wine and it’s expensive, but it is extraordinary. There are notes of cedar, cherry, strawberry, and raspberry with tobacco. Rich and full on the palate, it’s ultra-modern yet retains the Douro character. Big, chewy tannins and a long finish, it’s for fans of Napa Cab. Score: 95/100

• Quinta Vale D. Maria, ‘Vinha do Rio’ Douro 2009

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The Vale D. Mari Vinha do Rio is made from old vines and 29 grape varieties. This has an intriguing nose of red fruit jam, pepper, tobacco, cedar, and tangerine peel. Rich and full body with high acidity. The crunchy red fruit has resisted aging. Fine-grained tannins and a long finish with intensity and length. Score: 94/100

• Niepoort, Vintage Port 2005

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The Niepoort Vintage Port 2005 is already showing some development. There are notes of leather, tomato leaf, dried cherry, and mocha. This is a rich and complex Port. It has an intense burst of citrus acidity on the finish. Velvety and smooth with a long finish. What a wine. Score: 96/100

• Douro Boys, Cuvée 2017

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Only 750 magnums and 28 double magnums of the Douro Boys Cuvée 2017 was produced. It contains wine from all five of the Douro Boys. This is a big wine, rich and structured. The oak shows a little bit too much now but should subside with age. Plus red fruits and tobacco fill the mouth and the high acidity guides a long finish. If you are fortunate enough to get a hold of this bottle, put it down for another five years before opening it. Score: 91/100

• Douro Boys, Vintage Port 2017

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A wine to last decades. There were 350 magnums of the Douro Boys Vintage Port produced in 2017. This has so much luscious black cherry, red currant, cherry kirsch, and chocolate notes. The wine is ripe but never feels too heavy thanks to the vibrant acidity. It’s so delicious now but should really unfurl and gain complexity after years in the bottle. Top-notch stuff. Score: 94/100

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The cover photo is courtesy of the Douro Boys website. Thanks to the Douro Boys for providing local transport and accommodation in addition to Wine & Partners for the communication. Please note that the opinions expressed in this article are unsolicited and have not been paid for in any way by governmental bodies, enterprises, or individuals. We do not sell editorial content as that would destroy the legitimacy of our reviews and the trust between Exotic Wine Travel and its readers. On occasion, we extend the option of purchasing the wines we review or/and the products we spotlight. Some of these product links are set up through affiliate programs, which means Exotic Wine Travel gets referral credits if you choose to purchase these items via the links we provide.

The post Hanging With The Douro Boys appeared first on Wine Travel.

We tasted over 5,000 wines from 30 countries this year, and it was an arduous task to narrow the list to 18 wines. Our trip back to the USA alone could have filled this list with wines from Napa Valley and Santa Barbara County and other classics that we tasted in New York City. So here it is, Exotic Wine Travel’s list of 18 memorable wines. As usual: while sensory merits are important, there are other factors that went into selecting these wines. Did the wine pique curiosity as well as satisfy it? Did it make us re-examine our assumptions and teach us something new? Did it humanize wine and mean something special to us? Ultimately, it’s an imperfect methodology but good enough to get the gist of our year measured out in wines. There’s a mix of classics and lesser-known wines on the list, which we hope reveals the ever-expanding choices that are available to wine lovers. We highly recommend you to seek out these wines and “drink adventurously” (our tagline). Note: The wines are listed in chronological order based on when we tasted them.

Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder – Napa Valley, 2004 (California, USA)

The first notable event we attended in 2018 was the Wine Writers Symposium at Meadowood in Napa Valley. It was an invite-only event that we both received fellowships to attend. We flew from Croatia to visit Matt’s family in Michigan. After visiting the family, we drove 4,000 kilometers (2,400 miles) across the country to California—during the winter no less.

On the second day of the symposium, we attended the “Master tasting with Steven Spurrier and Friends“, which featured current release and library wines from the Napa Valley producers that participated in the 1976 Judgement of Paris. During our tasting, we had several outstanding wines including a Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, a Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1979, and this Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. Why we love it: It was a tough choice to pick one ‘best wine’ from a strong 14-pour line-up. However, the 2004 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder was unequivocally the top choice for Charine (Matt preferred the 1997 Heitz a little more because of the aged tobacco and menthol notes). Here’s Charine’s notes: “The 2004 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder illustrates a vivid image of its birthplace—all the signs of mountaintop and fresh breeze! The fruit is exceptionally vibrant and fresh for its age, lined by freshly tilled soil and amber. The sure-footed finish is backed by long-drawn, sweet spice-tinted, fine-grained tannins.”

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, 2014 (California, USA)

After the Wine Writers Symposium, we attended several AVA tastings in Napa Valley. There are 16 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) in Napa Valley, and each area produces distinctly different styles of wine. At the Oakville AVA tasting, there was no wine that we scored below 91 points. All the wines expressed ripe fruit flavors with a sense of freshness, rich texture, and a firm structure. Two wines that stood out above the rest were the 2014 Harlan Estate and 2014 Screaming Eagle, two of the most famous Napa cult wines. Why we love it: One taste of the 2014 Harlan Estate left us speechless. It’s a magnificent wine, and it claims the highest score that we’ve ever published on this site (4.9/5 or 99/100). The wine glides across the tongue as if it’s a ball of flavors giving the palate a deep-tissue massage. Everything is in place, in the right order and amount. Everything is complete.

Shafer, Hillside Select, Stags Leap District – Napa Valley, 2013 (California, USA)

After the Wine Writers Symposium and AVA tastings, we attended the 2018 Premiere Napa Valley auction. It’s an annual event where members of the Napa Valley Vintners auction off micro lots, between 60 to 240 bottles, of one-off creations that are still in the barrels. The money raised from the en primeur auction helps fund the operation of the Napa Valley Vintners, including the promotion and protection of Napa Valley. Prior to the wine futures auction, attendees had a chance to attend a walk-around tasting of barrel samples from the lots before bidding on them hours later and receiving them in a few years when they’re bottled. We tasted through the lots in the morning and then went to lunch before the live auction started. One participant told us to get to the lunch venue as early as possible because the wine selection would be remarkable; we heeded his advice. Over lunch, we had four hedonistic Napa Cabernets in front of us: The Continuum 2014, Staglin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Paul Hobbs Nathan Coomb’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, and this Shafer Hillside Select 2013.

Why we love it: The Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 surpasses the rest in this instance. It’s nuanced, structured, generous in aromas, yet focussed and elegant on the palate.

The Ojai Vineyard, Syrah, John Sebastiano Vineyard – Santa Barbara County, 2014 (California, USA)

After our week in Napa Valley, we drove back to Michigan to shoot our series about the wines of Santa Barbara County. It’s our favorite wine region in the USA, and we wrote an e-guide entitled Sipping Santa Barbara: Recommended Wines and Producers to help first-time visitors navigate the wine region. To support our efforts, producers had graciously sent us over 100 wines to use for our video series. The single-vineyard wines from John Sebastiano Vineyard are some of our favorites. The John Sebastiano Vineyard sits on the northeastern edge of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, which is slightly warmer than other parts of Sta. Rita Hills. The vines are planted on steep hill slopes facing west and enjoy blustery winds from the Pacific Ocean. The soil contains clay-loam underlaid by limestone. The berries ripen relatively late here so the single-vineyard wines of John Sebastiano Vineyard tend to show marked concentration.

Why we love it: This is quite a benchmark of cool-climate Syrah. It’s concentrated yet remains approachable and soft. Floral, savory, earthy, and fruity, we can’t ask for more from a Syrah.

An Approach to Relaxation, Sucette, 2014 (Barossa Valley, Australia)

After a few weeks of shooting about Santa Barbara wines, we were on the road again. This time, we drove east from Michigan to New York, where we were scheduled to do a masterclass about Croatian wines. Along the way, we met up with our long-time virtual friend Drew DiMatteo and spent a couple of days with him in New Jersey and New York. Needless to say, many wines were shared and An Approach to Relaxation Sucette 2014 topped the list of memorable wines. Why we love it: Old-vine Grenache grown in sandy soil, plus vinified with some stem inclusion—that alone says a lot about this wine. It’s light on the feet and color, yet it punches with surprising intensity. It’s a wine that I won’t mind wearing on my wrists and licking myself ever so occasionally. There’s definitely deft winemaking (the makers are Richard Betts MS and Carla Rzeszewski) here as well.

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cascina Francia, 1998 (Piedmont, Italy)

After our time in New Jersey, Drew came with us to New York. We had a special evening scheduled with another wine enthusiast that we had previously known only in the virtual world. Croat-born American Leopold Frokic invited us to his home. The evening started off with a line-up of Nebbiolos from Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, GD Vajra, and Marcarini, and the standout wine was this Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 1998. Why we love it: Barolo and Barbaresco are near and dear to our hearts—they were wines that we discovered together at the beginning of our relationship seven years ago, and they were the first wine regions we visited when our full-time travel began in 2015. This was a wine that had eluded us until that night.

Philippe Pacalet, Cornas, 2015 (Rhône, France)

After New York, Drew wanted to show us more of the Philly’s food and wine scene, so we hopped across the bridge for some Philly Cheesesteaks at John’s Roast Pork and drinks at the Walnut Street Café. Walnut’s sommelier Kaitlyn Caruke (named ‘Best New Sommelier by Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2018) opened a bottle of Philippe Pascalet Cornas 2015. Why we love it: Matt loves Syrah; Charine loves Philippe Pacalet and Cornas but tends to find Philippe Pacalet to have severe bottle variation and Cornas to be too young for consumption. This is an all-stars-aligned Rhône red that’s best when savored, not tasted.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Père & Fils, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Clos de Ruchottes, 2006 (Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France)

After our time in the USA, we returned to Europe to start a series of press trips. Charine was off to the VinNatur event in Vicenza, Italy. One night, the event organizer shared this bottle of Clos des Ruchottes with her. This wine had been on her vision board for several years. Why we love it: It was surreal to see this bottle walked out of the wishlist onto the dining table. Better yet, the wine was in its peak window. 2006 was not a great year for Clos des Ruchottes, but the wine had come around with sustained depth and poise.

Éric Texier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vielles Vignes, 2015 (Rhône, France)

At the three-day Villa Favorita event organized by VinNatur, Charine had a chance to discover many new wine producers. But the one that left the deepest impression was Éric Texier, whose wines we were already familiar with. It was Charine’s first taste of his Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Why we love it: Charine appreciates every wine in Éric Texier’s portfolio, including the basic ‘Chat Fou’, but his Châteauneuf-du-Pape was in a league of its own: it caused her to stop in awe, then compelled her to create quite a commotion because she couldn’t contain my excitement. She has since become a vocal and enthusiastic supporter of Éric Texier.

Cave L’Étoile, Banyuls Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée, 1995 (Roussillon, France)

While Charine was enjoying the wonders of Vinnatur, Matt participated in Languedoc-Roussillon Week in the south of France. The week was jam-packed with tastings, workshops, field trips, and food. Matt tasted a number of delicious wines from many different appellations in Languedoc-Roussillon, but it was the fortified wines of Banyuls that captured his attention. One afternoon, we visited the steep terraces where those wines are born. What a site it was.

While Charine is in a never-ending love affair with Port, Matt was never into fortified wines until he met Banyuls. These wines are lower in alcohol (14.5%-16%) than Port and are a little easier to drink. The Cave L’Étoile Banyuls Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée 1995 was served during the last dinner of the the Languedoc-Roussillon trip. It was a special seven-course dinner featuring two fortified wines per course. This was the wine took nearly everyone’s breath away.  Why we love it: This sweet wine is a smorgasbord of flavors. Think dried raspberries mixed with coffee, toffee, pepper, and leather flavors. If you like Port, it’s time to give vintage Banyuls a try.

Clai, Bastovica, 2007 (Istria, Croatia)

After the Languedoc-Roussillon trip and VinNatur event , we met back in Croatia and set out to shoot a 12-part video series, entitled Cracking Croatian Wine, to support our book of the same name. On the third day of our shoot, we arrived at Clai winery in the evening (click on the video below).

Giorgio Clai and his co-winemaker Dimitri Brečević were having drinks after a long day in the vineyards. We joined them and tasted through the new vintage. Giorgio’s mood got progressively jovial as the evening darkened. He began pulling out archive wines from his small, personal stash (he drinks a lot of his own wine), including this Clai Bastovica Teran 2007. Why we love it: This wine isn’t in production anymore as all the vines in the Bastovica vineyard have been pulled. So this is quite a unicorn wine, which—admittedly—makes it even more special. But it’s not just merely novelty; the 2007 Clai Bastovica Teran had gained the necessary complexity through aging and it was showing great class that night. A sublime wine with larger-than-life quality that reminded us of the maker Giorgio Clai.

Kiridžija, Dingač, 2008 (Dalmatia, Croatia)

Our eighth episode of Cracking Croatian Wine focused on the wines of the Pelješac Peninsula. This slender piece of land is the spiritual home to Plavac Mali. The peninsula contains Croatia’s first two appellations, Postup and Dingač.

One of Plavac Mali’s old guards is Vedran Kiridžija, who produces about 15,000 bottles of wine (one-third are Dingač) in a humble cellar behind his house. When we stopped by to shoot our episode, Vedran was kind enough to share a bottle of Dingač from his favorite vintage, 2008. Why we love it: The wine had such a beautiful quiet intensity and harmony that we never thought we could find in Dingač. Who would have thought that the tannic monster Dingač has the ability to walk on tip-toe? Charine loved the wine so much that she teared up. We were also delighted that Vedran Kiridžija enjoyed the moment and the wine as much as we did.

Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe, 2008 (Bordeaux, France)

After wrapping up our Cracking Croatian Wine video series, we had an intense few months of travel and started the second half of the year with a trip to Puglia (Italy) to judge at Radici del Sud, then moved on to more press trips in Hungary and Romania, and then back to Italy to judge at the Cagliari International Wine & Food Festival. After Sardinia, we went on a two-week re-tour of the Slovak wine regions. After Slovakia, we settled down in Oradea, Romania where we visited a friend and caught up on desktop work. During our time in Oradea, our friend Șerban organized two blind tastings, mixing in Romanian wines with international wines. The first tasting had quite a few surprises in it, including several impressive Romanian wines, a Quintarelli Giuseppe Amarone Della Valpolicella 2003, and this Château Montrose 2008. On first taste, Charine immediately identified it as a classified Bordeaux. This was the first bottle that was finished that night—the most practical identifier of ‘the best wine’. Why we love it: Château Montrose is one of Charine’s all-time favorite Bordeaux as it’s one of the most value-for-money cellar-worthy wines. This wine shows brightness and gossamer texture.

Crama Oprişor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 (Oltenia, Romania)

We did a second blind tasting in Oradea a few days later. Șerban mixed in lots of international wines including Rioja, Barolo, and Amarone. We brought along a Liber Pater 2009 (Bordeaux), which showed well. The most memorable wines were the Liber Pater, Château Porto Carras (Greece), and this lone Romanian wine in the flight.

Why we love it: The Crama Oprişor Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 changed our impressions of Romanian reds. We were in Romania three times in 2018 and tasted many wines from the top Romanian wine producers. In general, Romanian reds tend to be heavily extracted, finished with a landslide of oak. This wine is nothing of that sort; it’s powerful yet elegant, and it sings Old-World restraint.

Château Pajzos, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, 2006 (Tokaj, Hungary)

After Oradea, Romania, we went back to Hungary for the Hungarianwines.eu study trip, which covered four Hungarian regions in four days. The study trip was a prize we received for winning the Hungarian Web Wine Writing contest with first place in the category of red wine and runner-up in Hungarian food and wine pairing. We were joined on the trip by other winners of the contest and a group of Cava producers from Catalunya, Spain.

This trip marked our third visit to Tokaj in 2018. It’s a region that fascinates us endlessly, and we’re always happy to return to Tokaj. This time around, we visited Château Pajzos. The managing director of Château Pajzos, Laurent Comas, guided us through the old cellars and a tasting of current releases and archive wines. While the Château Pajzos Eszencia 2000 was ethereal, it was the Château Pajzos Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2006 that unanimously impressed our whole group. Why we love it: The wine was beautiful: stewy notes with primary fruit dialed back; good balance of acid and sugar that paved the way for current drinkability. But what captivated us was the overall beauty of that moment: drinking the wine in the Tokaji cellar (drinking Tokaji wine in a traditional Tokaji cellar should be on the bucket list of every wine lover) with a group of like-minded people.

Mlečnik, Rebula, 2009 (Vipava, Slovenia)

Immediately after the Hungarian wine study trip, we had to attend another press trip in Slovenia. The schedule almost seemed improbable until a virtual friend came to our rescue—coincidently, Sašo Papp of Vinoo.co was attending the same wine event that we were attending in Hungary, and he graciously offered to drive us from the Etyek wine region in Hungary to Vipava Valley in Slovenia.

The Vipavska Rebula event was a sensory explosion. The press trip was sponsored by six quality-minded producers Burja, Batič, Slavček, Guerilla, Mlečnik, and Svetlik along with the Slovenian Tourist Board. We visited Mlečnik in 2017, so we were already familiar with their wines. However, nothing prepared us for the wines they pulled from the archive at the event. Valter Mlečnik and his son Klemen Mlečnik presented their Mlečnik Rebula 2009 and Mlečnik Ana Cuvée 2011. We sampled the Mlečnik Rebula 2009 twice during the trip. It was the best wine of the trip. Hold on, it was the best amber wine we tasted in 2018. Why we love it: Mlečnik Rebula 2009 is the epitome of harmony in a bottle. Nothing sticks out, nothing is left behind. It hits every point on the palate with concentration and focus. A true masterpiece. If this wine is indicative of where Vipavska Rebula (Rebula/Ribolla Gialla wine from Vipava Valley) is heading, then we are in for an enormous treat.

Ramos Pinto, Vintage Port, 1982 (Douro, Portugal)

Shortly after our time in Slovenia, we were on the road again, this time to Portugal. The AEVP (Association of Port Wine Companies, also known as Caves do Vinho do Porto) had invited us to Port Wine Day and the declaration ceremony of the 2016 Vintage Port.

Charine is resolutely partial to Port because her first sip of wine at a tender age was a Tawny Port. We were assigned to visit and stay a night at Ramos Pinto in the Douro. Jorge Rosas, Export Director and heir of the family winery, took us through the Ramos Pinto portfolio including a few older vintage Ports. When Charine tasted the Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 1982, she instantly knew it would be on this list. Why we love it: It’s Matt’s birth year wine, so that gives it an extra sheen. Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 1982 has absolutely the most divine bouquet of walnut cookie and meringue. Medium-bodied palate with resolved tannins. The finish is so long that it can keep one company for the whole evening.

Argentiera, Bolgheri Superiore, 2015 (Tuscany, Italy)

After Portugal, we returned to Croatia for a press tour to all four major wine regions, made a short trip to Vienna for the Orange Wine Festival 2018, and judged at the IWCB wine competition in Romania. As winter approached, we headed back to Charine’s home country Singapore to escape the cold. Along the way, we made a convenient detour to Hong Kong, where we shared a number of memorable wines with our friends including a Ridge Monte Bello 1998 and a Bruno Giacosa Santo Stefano Barbaresco 2007. We also attended Pinot Palooza and James Suckling’s Great Wines of Italy; the latter was where we tasted the final wine on our list. Why we love it: We tasted Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 2015 next to Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015. Wine Spectator named the Sassicaia 2015 the number one wine of the year; it’s a stellar wine but the Argentiera is equally impressive and comes at a fraction of the price.

Honorable Mentions:

Bosnia-Herzegovina: Brkić Greda Žilavka 2015 (Mostar), Čitluk Blatina Grand Cru 2011 (Mostar), Nuić Trnjnak 2015 (Mostar) Croatia: Bire Grk Defora 2016 (Dalmatia), Krajančič Statute 2015 (Dalmatia), Benvenuti Muškat San Salvatore 2013 (Istria), Enjingi Venje Bijelo 1998 (Slavonia) France: Château Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre Margaux 2004 (Bordeaux), Château Smith Haut Lafitte Red 2005 (Bordeaux), Liber Pater 2009 (Bordeaux), Damoy Gevrey Chambertin Clos Tamisot 2014 (Burgundy), Tarlant Cuvee Louis NV (Champagne), Domaine Cazes Rivesaltes Cuvée Aimé Cazes 1978 (Roussillon) Greece: Château Porto Carras 2008 (Meliton Slopes), Markovitis Xinomavro 2012 (Naoussa) Hungary: Erzsebét Pince Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2003 (Tokaj), Lenkey Úrágya Furmint 2006 (Tokaj), Oremus Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999 (Tokaj) Moldova: Chateau Vartely Ice Wine Riesling 2017  New Zealand: Craggy Range Aroha Te Muna 2016 (Martinborough) Portugal: Bulas Porto Colheita 1996, Churchill’s Vintage Port 2016, Ramos Pinto 30 Year Old Tawny Port, Quinta do Vale Meão Vintage Port 2016, Quinta do Vallado Vintage Port 2016, Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2015, Vasques de Carvalho 30 Year Old Tawny Port, Vallado Vintage Port 2016, Vieira de Sousa Agua Alta Vintage Port 2016 Italy: Terlan Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2015 (Alto-Adige), Fratelli Serra Vernaccia di Oristano 2002 (Sardinia), Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (Tuscany), Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2015 (Tuscany), Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015 (Tuscany), Antinori Tignanello 2015 (Tuscany), Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 (Tuscany), Quintarelli Giuseppe Amarone Della Valpolicella 2003 (Veneto) Romania: Davino Flamboyant 2012 (Dealu Mare) Slovakia: J&J Ostrožović Tokajské Výber 6 Putñový 2003 (Tokaj), Organic Cuvée Marie Vallis Albus Exclusive Biele Suché 2015 (Strekov, Južnoslovenskà/South Slovakia) Slovenia: Batič Angel Pinela 2015 (Vipava Valley), Movia Veliko Rdeće 1998 (Goriška Brda) Spain: R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 1995 (Rioja), Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2012 (Rioja) USA: Christian Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon 1974 (Napa Valley), Cliff Lede Poetry 2005 (Napa Valley), Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1979 (Napa Valley), Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 (Napa Valley), Schramsberg Reserve Late Disgorged 1997 (Napa Valley), VHR Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2015 (Napa Valley), Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir John Sebastiano Vineyard 2014 (Santa Barbara), Liquid Farm Golden Slope 2015 (Santa Barbara), Samsara Pinot Noir Las Hermanas 2013 (Santa Barbara), Ridge Monte Bello 1998 (Santa Cruz)  Dishes of the Year: Baby squid ink barley with sheep cheese (Hotel Ola, Croatia), Pag lamb on grill (Boškinac Restaurant, Croatia), pasta with blue crab from Croatia’s Neretva river (Hotel Merlot, Croatia), fresh aoli with escargot from Vallée de l’Agly (Roussillon, France), Burrata cheese from Puglia (Italy), Pasticciotti (1489 Food Pop Gallipoli in Italy), raw seafood at Ristorante Al Pescatore (Bari, Puglia, Italy), Idrijski Žlikrofi (Gostilna pri Škafarju, Slovenia) Food and Wine Pairing of the Year: Meadowood Napa Valley’s roasted squab with smooked cranberry, salted clementine and parsip paired with Chase Cellars ‘Hayne Vineyard’ Zinfandel 2015 (Napa Valley)–wine selected by Gillian Ballance MS Restaurant of the Year: Boškinac (Novalja, Pag Island, Croatia) Sommelier of the Year: Tihomir Purišić (Dubravkin Put Restaurant in Zagreb, Croatia) Wine Event of the Year: Premiere Napa Valley’s Oakville AVA Tasting Winery Visit of the Year: Ramos Pinto (Douro, Portugal)

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We were recently invited by the AEVP to taste the declared 2016 vintage of Port and participate in the annual Port Wine Days in the Douro. Most people associate the city of Porto, Portugal with the rich, hedonistic sweet wine known as Port. There is more to Portuguese wine than Port. Many exciting dry wines coming out of the region – both white and red.

Dry red Portuguese wine made in the Douro consist of grapes like Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and many other grapes. These are inky, rich, and complex reds. The dry white Portuguese wine made in the Douro uses grapes like  Donzelinho Branco, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato, Viosinho, and others. The Douro whites are rich and have beautiful salinity to them.

Charine loves Port and the entire trip was thrilling for her. Tasting through the 2016 vintage of Port was exciting and I’ll leave the recap of Port wines to Charine in an upcoming article. The week consisted of visits to several shipper caves in Gaia (across the river from Porto) and producers in the Douro. During our visits and meals, producers had the chance to show us several of their dry wines in addition to their Port wines. Here are our favorite Portuguese wines from the Douro on this trip.

Exotic Wine Travel’s Picks:

You can find out more about our scoring system on the Wine Rating page.

White

• Niepoort, Redoma Douro Reserva Branco 2017 

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The Niepoort Redoma Douro Reserva Branco is a barrel fermented blend of Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto, and other various grapes. This wine has perfect wood integration, there are no overpowering oaky notes. It’s a beautiful Douro white with mineral, white peach, pineapple, and white flower notes. The wine is medium bodied, it isn’t too acidic but is still juicy.  4.2/5

• Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Branco) 2017

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The Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Branco) 2017 is a blend from two quintas (estates). Grapes are a variable mix of traditional Douro white varieties. It has notes of white peach, flint, yogurt, and white flower. Part of the cuvée is fermented and aged in the barrel, which makes the wine feel fresh. The finish is crispy and saline.   4.1/5

• Wine & Soul, Guru 2012

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We purchased this at Wine Quay Bar in Porto. It’s the top white from Wine & Soul. The Guru is a field blend of Vosinho, Rabigato, Codega do Larinho, and Gouveio. The vineyard is over 50 years old. The wine is barrel fermented and aged for seven months.

This is still young and can live further in the bottle. It’s very saline for a Douro white. Stone fruit, citrus, petrol, and a touch of yogurt are the main flavors. It’s full-bodied but not overly creamy, with a lower level of acidity. If this finish was longer, this could be pushed to ethereal levels.   4.2/5

Red

• Passadouro, Douro Touriga Franca 2015

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The Passadouro Douro Touriga Franca is another wine we purchased at Wine Quay Bar. It’s not the greatest wine in the world but it is one that fun to drink. Full of blue fruit, spiced plum, earth, and violet flavors. The wine is ripe and silky on the palate. There is a meaty, Syrah-like character on the finish. Most producers focus on making a varietal Touriga Nacional so it’s a lot of fun to try a varietal Touriga Franca.  3.8/5

For a step up in seriousness, we recommend the Passadouro Douro Reserva.

• Quinta do Crasto, Douro Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2015

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The Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Vinhas Velhas (Old Vines) is a wine with good distribution all around the world – this is for good reason. This is one helluva Douro red made from vines over 70 years of age and matured in oak for 18 months.

It’s full of red fruits, cedar, graphite, and dark chocolate flavors. The wine is full-bodied, structured, and fruity without being jammy. Firm tannins suggest this has a long life ahead in the bottle.  4.3/5

• Quinta Vale D. Maria, Douro 2015

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The Quinta Vale D. Maria is a wine that I’ve wanted to try for a long time. Thankfully it did not disappoint and was my favorite dry wine during our entire trip in the Douro. It’s a blend of the traditional red grapes (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, etc) aged in oak. Notes include sweet cherry, cedar, red fruit, and a touch of earth. The wine is full-bodied with bouncy acidity, supple tannins, and a long finish.   4.4/5

• Ramos Pinto, Duas Quinta Reserva Douro (Tinto) 2015

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The Ramos Pinto Duas Quinta Reserva is made with fruit from two estates and is aged in oak for one year. It’s a big and tart red that still shows balance. Red fruit, cedar, and leather flavors dominate the nose and palate. The juicy acidity is accompanied by firm tannins. While this has the gumption to age, it’s plenty fun to drink now.  4.2/5

We drank this next to the 1997 vintage, which is still alive and kicking. I’d be very interested to taste the 2015 at twenty years of age.

• Casa Ferreirinha, Quinta da Leda Douro 2015

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Casa Ferrierinha is known for producing the Barca Velha, one of the most expensive dry wines in Portugal. Casa Ferrierinha also produces a wide range of dry wines including the Quinta da Leda. This is a great alternative to the pricey Barca Velha which can reach 500 Euros a bottle.

It’s made of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz aged in oak for 18 months. This is a powerful and refined Douro red. Notes of red fruit, chocolate, tobacco, and cedar coat the palate. It’s full-bodied with round tannins. The wine is built to age but is very drinkable now.   4.3/5

• Lacrau, Douro Old Vines 2015

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Hello! Welcome to As Drunk by Exotic Wine Travel, a weekly column where we feature interesting wines that we encourage you to seek out. The reviews featured in this series may be written by either one or the both of us. The featured wines can be from obscure or well-known wine regions. We hope that these wine recommendations will keep you gastronomically curious and your palate invigorated!

Dona Maria (Júlio Bastos) Grand Reserva 2013

We’re huge fans of Portuguese wines. When it comes to Portuguese reds, our preferences are toward examples from Douro, Dão, Lisboa, and Bairrada. The wines we previously tasted from Alentejo didn’t blow us away… until now.

Charine discovered this producer while we were on a Port-centered press trip in Porto, Portugal. She visited the caves of Taylor’s (Taylor, Fladgate, & Yeatman) on the second day of the trip. During lunch, Taylor’s served a selection of dry wines from other producers (since their production is dedicated only to Port). When we met again later that day, she kept going on and on about a delicious Petit Verdot she tasted from the Alentejo region.

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